Tackling Northern Territory's Larapinta Trail solo in 6 days

With only a week up her sleeve, Caro Ryan squeezes in the best of the Larapinta Trail’s wild swimming holes, classic ridgetop hikes and a summit sunrise that leaves her longing for more.

In my dreams I find myself out in the wilderness, taking on one of Australia’s long-distance hiking trails, The Larapinta Trail, in a single, unbroken journey. But, like so many of us, the realities of life dictate that my adventures are squeezed into bite-sized chunks of week-long forays, book-ended by a frantic rush to prepare, followed by an Everest of washing.

So, while the 223 kilometres of the Northern Territory’s Larapinta Trail can be swallowed whole in 14 to 20 days, I’m content with just six days and a taste of the best the Larapinta Trail has to offer.

Day 1 – Alice Springs and Section 10 (Ormiston Gorge to Finke River)

Piling into a minibus in Alice Springs, I take stock of my group for the next six days: an eclectic mix of Aussies aged between 40 and 60, including a few solo hikers, a married couple and a pair of friends who do a week-long hike together each year. We’re the types who love to feel the earth under our feet and to connect with wild places in a way that leaves our bodies feeling like they’ve moved, climbed or scrambled. It’s not long before we’re sharing stories as the van rushes west along the Namatjira Highway.

Larapinta Trail, Northern Territory — On the road to the start of the Larapinta Trail.

Arriving at Ormiston Gorge, we hit the trail along Section 10, which – at just 9.1 kilometres – is the shortest of Larapinta’s 12 sections. It’s a good introduction to this big sky country with a gentle ascent to a great lunch spot at Hilltop Lookout.

It’s late in the April to September hiking season so, after a few hours walking in 34°C temperatures, sliding into the cool, calm waters of the Finke River – the first of many wild-swimming opportunities – is the respite everyone has been waiting for.

Ormiston Gorge, Northern Territory — Arriving at Ormiston Gorge at the start of the Larapinta Trail.

Later, at basecamp, with our bellies full after three delicious courses, I fight heavy eyelids, trying to stay awake to watch just a little more of the star-heavy sky as it presses down on me. Just one more satellite; one more shooting star. Fortunately, I still have five nights in the swag to take it all in.

Day 2 – Serpentine Gorge to Serpentine Chalet (section 8)

With three litres of water in our daypacks, we hit the trail before 8 am for the first real ascent (350 metres) up to the Heavytree Range. This is my type of hiking: skimming along broken, rocky ridgelines with 360-degree views that zigzag until we reach Counts Point lookout; the perfect little lunch spot. Here, our guide interlaces geological stories about how the landscape came to be with those of its traditional owners, the Arrernte people. Somehow, from up here, it all makes sense.

We finish up at one of the chillier swimming holes. Brisk, but not bracing, the now-familiar ochre cliffs keep the setting sun at bay.

Day 3 – Serpentine Chalet Dam to Inarlanga Pass and the Ochre Pits (section 9)

Conscious of the pre-dawn wakeup call tomorrow, we spend a gentle morning walking to Inarlanga Pass, learning about the ceremonial site’s significance along the way. A mildly technical (and fun) rock scramble leads us through a high-walled, open-sky tunnel, birthing us out into the vast channel between two ridges of the Tjoritja/West MacDonnell Ranges National Park. We return along the Arrernte Walking Track and a trailhead at the Ochre Pits, with its earthy rainbow-stained walls evidence of the site’s 40,000-year-old history.

By now, we’re used to having a post-walk swim and today delivers a chilly dip in the reed-edged waters of Glen Helen Gorge. Not content with simply an aquatic refreshment, we stop in at Glen Helen Homestead for the classic outback pub (and grub) experience (the works burger and a cold beer hits the spot).

Glen Helen Gorge, Northern Territory — Today delivers a chilly dip in the reed-edged waters of Glen Helen Gorge.

Day 4 – Mount Sonder Sunrise

We’ve been ambling along towards Mount Sonder (the western end of the Larapinta) for the past four days, listening to the Arrernte stories of how she is a reclining pregnant woman, and today is our moment to finally meet her. With fresh batteries in our head torches, beanies on and jackets zipped to brave the surprisingly strong cold wind, we start the 8-kilometre, 680-metre ascent at 2.45 am. We make the summit just in time to see the boiling red sun start her ascent across the Territory sky. Only after turning my back do I see my favourite view of the entire trip: the bold dawn light has cast Sonder’s feminine shadow across the plains below.

Mount Sonder summit — The summit of Mount Sonder at sunrise is a highlight of the Larapinta Trail.

Day 5 – Ormiston Gorge and The Pound Walk

Not strictly part of the Larapinta Trail, the seven-kilometre (3-4 hour) Ormiston Pound circuit walk is one of the best day walks of the West MacDonnell Ranges. Refreshed after yesterday’s lazy afternoon, we set off in an anti-clockwise circuit. Upon summiting the lookout, I ponder the pound’s bowl-like structure and notice the harsh, vibrant colours of the desert mixed in with the soft pastel mauves of an Albert Namitjira painting. The circuit ends by leading you through (yes, through) the chilly waters of Ormiston Gorge and back to the hubbub of the campground and kiosk.

Ormiston Pound, Larapinta Trail — The Ormiston Pound circuit walk is one of the best day walks of the West MacDonnell Ranges.

Day 6 – Drive to Alice Springs via Ellery Creek Waterhole

The end of the trip and my Everest pile of washing is sadly not too far away. It’s just under a two-hour drive back to Alice Springs, but we’re not leaving without stopping for a final dip. The popular Ellery Creek Big Hole (waterhole) provides my final wild baptism, inspiring me to return one day to walk the full length of the epic Larapinta.

Ellery Creek Big Hole, Northern Territory — Be sure to stop for a final dip at the popular Ellery Creek Big Hole.

Details

Getting there: Virgin Australia flies to Alice Springs from Adelaide, Darwin and Brisbane, while Qantas flies direct from Darwin, Uluru, Sydney, Adelaide, Melbourne and Perth.

Staying there: You can bush camp along the full length of the Larapinta Trail at 29 designated campsites . All trailheads have a water supply and some have free gas BBQs.

Several tour companies provide semi-permanent base camps as part of their itineraries. Check out Trek Larapinta , World Expeditions, Walking Country and Epicurious Travel .

Eating there: Independent trekkers must bring all their own supplies, with food drops and logistics available. Fully guided tours provide all meals and snacks.

Hiking there: End-to-end trekking along the Larapinta Trail is for fit, experienced and well-equipped hikers only. If in doubt, go with a licensed tour operator for a shorter guided journey. The best time to go is during winter; be prepared for day temperatures in the mid-30s and cool nights of around 5°C. The trails consist of uneven, sharp and broken rocks that are unforgiving on shoes. Good hiking boots with quality soles are essential.

Always, always carry plenty of drinking water.

For more information read our outback survival guide and this Larapinta Trail safety information sheet .

Spend a few days visiting the real-life Central Australian locations that inspired the new film everyone is talking about, and discover why Alice Springs is such an important part of Australian culture.

In the credits of the new Australian film Kangaroo , the first name under ‘cast’ should read ‘The Northern Territory ’. Not only is Alice Springs (and the surrounding landscape) integral to the movie itself, but the spiritual heart of Australia and its local Indigenous owners also inform the look and feel of every frame, explains Producer Trisha Morton-Thomas of Brindle Films, who also plays Charlie’s grandmother Gwennie.

“By setting Kangaroo in Alice Springs (Mparntwe), the film embraces how visible Aboriginal people are here, and the living Aboriginal culture that is woven through this community,” she explains.

still from kangarro film — See *Kangaroo*, then visit the real-life filming locations.

And while shooting in such a sacred part of the Northern Territory required extra planning, it was something the cast and crew were highly invested in.

“There are incredibly significant sacred sites and places of deep cultural stories in the area, that at times are very gender-specific, which we’ve kept out of the production,” she explains. “Even if overhead drone footage captures a sacred site that isn’t meant to be seen by other people outside of that clan, we’ve made sure to omit it from the film.”

If Kangaroo piqued your interest in a Central Australian holiday, we don’t blame you. Read on to discover eight places featured in the movie that you can visit in real life – and get planning. Don’t forget to pack sunscreen and a hat.

1. Alice Springs/ Mparntwe

artist at Many Hands Art Centre — Visit the galleries of Alice Springs, like Many Hands Art Centre. (Image: Tourism NT/ Helen Orr/ Many Hands Art Centre)

The red and dusty streets of the film’s fictional town of Silvergum were filmed on the outskirts of Alice Springs. And, while the art gallery featured in the film is fictional, Alice Springs is a hub of creativity. See the work of local artists at the Araluen Art Centre , Yubu Napa Art Gallery , Iltja Ntjarra (Many Hands) Art Centre and the famous Tjanpi Desert Weavers .

2. The Kangaroo Sanctuary & Kangaroo Rescue Centre

The Kangaroo Sanctuary Alice Springs, the inspiration for the Kangaroo move — Visit the movie’s inspiration at Kangaroo Sanctuary. (Image: Tourism NT/ Kangaroo Sanctuary)

Kangaroo was inspired by the journey of Chris ‘Brolga’ Barns, who founded the now world-renowned Kangaroo Sanctuary based in Alice Springs. For lead actor, Aussie Ryan Corr, the animals were central to the movie, alongside the landscapes.

“The animals in this story were a real calling point for me,” he explains. “What this story tries to tell us about the connection between humans and animals is beautiful.”

To gain a real insight into the fauna and flora of the Red Centre, you can visit the Kangaroo Sanctuary on a sunset tour, where you might even get the chance to hold a baby kangaroo.

3. Ormiston Gorge

woman walking along the edge of Ormiston Gorge near alice springs — Take a dip in Ormiston Gorge. (Image: Tourism NT/ @domandjesso)

The film captures the raw beauty of the West MacDonnell Ranges, known in the Arrernte language as Tjoritja. This national park is rich in Indigenous culture and stark geological wonders.

Only a 15-minute drive from Alice Springs, Tjoritja offers visitors the chance to camp, hike and swim among ancient landscapes (most attractions are less than a three-hour drive away).

Ormiston Gorge , a cooling oasis in among the red desert sands, is one of the most popular destinations, no doubt because of the permanent swimming hole and towering red cliffs. From here, visitors can also embark on the beautiful Ormiston Pound Walk and the shorter – more accessible – Ghost Gum Walk. Bring your bathers – it’s safe for swimming.

4. Standley Chasm

woman walking through Standley Chasm near alice springs — Wander through Standley Chasm. (Image: Tourism NT)

The 1.2-kilometre walk to nearby Standley Chasm will be a highlight for any visitor as the imposing 40 metre-high chasm walls project strength and ancient wisdom.

Visit at midday to experience the path illumined by the midday sun. Not only will you fill your camera roll with vibrant red images of the gorge and its intoxicating shadows, but you can also camp nearby in a powered or unpowered site so you can watch the brilliance of the desert stars fill the night sky after dusk.

5. Simpsons Gap

three people walking on path through simpsons gap near alice springs — Walk the trails of Simpson’s Gap. (Image: Tourism NT/ Helen Orr)

Closer to Alice Springs, the photogenic Simpsons Gap is the perfect place to spot the endangered Black-footed Rock wallaby near the permanent watering hole. While swimming isn’t permitted, soaking up the sun and views certainly is.

Explore the area’s numerous walking trails, appreciate the soaring cliffs on either side of the ‘gap’ and pick out the shooting locations of Kangaroo in the area.

6. Ellery Creek Big Hole

aerial of Ellery Creek Big Hole near alice springs — Dive into Ellery Creek Big Hole. (Image: Tourism NT/ Tourism Australia)

When it comes to classic Northern Territory landscapes, you can’t go past Ellery Creek Big Hole/ Udepata : tall gum trees sidling up to a refreshing watering hole (fed by the West MacDonnell Ranges and surrounded by rugged red cliffs.

Swim in the cooling waters, hike the cliff tops, watch for birds and even stargaze as you camp here overnight. It’s locations like this that attracted the film’s director Kate Woods to the project.

“It humbles you to be in this environment: it’s so beautiful, so old and so vast,” she explains. “I was thrilled to get a chance to … shoot such a beautiful story in the incredible landscape of the Northern Territory.”

7. Larapinta Drive

aerial of Larapinta Drive into alice springs — Drive along Larapinta Drive. (Image: Tourism NT)

There is no better way to get a feel for how the characters arrived at the fictional Central Australian town of Silvergum than to travel along the iconic state road, Larapinta Drive.

Connecting Alice Springs to the mighty King’s Canyon in the west, via the historic community of Hermannsburg, this road takes in the West MacDonnell National Park, Alice Springs Desert Park and artist Albert Namatjira’s house, among other attractions. Take your time, bring a camera and prepare for numerous stops along the way.

8. Todd River

competitors in Henley on Todd Regatta, alice springs — Join in the fun of the quirky Henley on Todd Regatta. (Image: Tourism NT/ TImparja Creative)

Meandering through Alice Springs like a lazy Western Brown snake, the Todd River is a central part of Alice Springs culture. Known as an ‘intermittent river’, the Todd can go from a dry dusty riverbed to a flowing waterscape in less than 15 minutes after heavy rainfall.

When it’s dry, the famous Henley on Todd Regatta fills the sandy riverbed with handmade ‘boats’ carried by sailors. This is the world’s only dry river boating event, and it’s referenced in the ‘Silvergum Boat Race’ in the movie. Inspired by the real-life event, the characters built quirky “Flintstones-style boats” and competed in teams.

See Kangaroo in cinemas now, and start planning your NT getaway at northernterritory.com.

6 days solo on the Larapinta Trail