Queensland’s Granite Belt road trip

Phil HawkesBy Phil Hawkes
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Take a road trip through Queensland’s Granite Belt to discover some of the country’s most dramatic scenery and best cool-climate wines.

Rising up to 1,200 metres above sea level, Queensland’s Granite Belt region is home to some of Australia’s most dramatic scenery and offers surprises at every turn of the New England Highway between Stanthorpe and Tenterfield .

 

This stunning landscape is the result of 200-million-year-old Triassic granite formations, where massive boulders balance seemingly precariously on top of each other. Surrounded by dense forests, it all makes for a breathtaking (and literally breath-taking) sight for walkers and photographers. Even after several trips to the area, I’ve found many reasons to return, this time heading mainly to the southern end around Ballandean . Here, some absolute highlights.

granite belt wines
Cycle in the vines. (Image: Tourism and Events Queensland)

Girraween National Park

With its 11,800 hilly hectares of unique rock formations and hiking trails, Girraween is one of the most rewarding walking locations I’ve ever experienced. And it’s not just the drama of wondering, ‘Will these boulders topple over one day, and will I see it happen?’ (No, they’ve passed every Workplace Health and Safety check imaginable.)

 

Maybe it’s the crisp fresh mountain air; or is it the sense that you’re feeling a part of Earth’s history, where giants roamed and played skittles with these big rocks? Girraween and neighbouring Sundown National Park are all of that, and there’s a good chance you’ll come away feeling reinvigorated by the great heights of healthy exercise you’ve achieved while channelling John Denver’s Rocky Mountain High.

 

An alternative for a rewarding walk to see spectacular balancing boulders is at Bald Rock National Park adjoining Girraween, accessible from the NSW side of the border near Tenterfield (entry fee applies). Here you’ll find the largest exposed granite rock in the southern hemisphere: it’s where the giants presumably got their rocks off.

Granite Belt cool-climate wines

Granite Belt wines have come to the attention of wine lovers and critics in recent years, and with good reason. There are over 50 wineries , many with cellar door sales and tastings: just what the doctor ordered after my daytime exertions. The unique terroir with its longer growing season and deep granite soils, combined with the innovative approach of the region’s winemakers and vignerons, produces wines of elegance and complexity. Cool-climate wines as individual as a fingerprint.

 

Close to Girraween at Wyberba there’s a small cluster of wineries ideal for that post-walk tipple. Balancing Rock Wines, awarded Best Small Cellar Door on the Granite Belt by Gourmet Traveller WINE 2019, has a cute label displaying the balancing rock in its vineyard. David and Lori Broadbent offer a range of reds and whites including a highly awarded reserve sagrantino, which is definitely one for the cellar at home if you don’t drink it all first.

balancing rock wines granite belt
At aptly named Balancing Rock Wines.

Pyramids Road Wines focuses on low-volume handmade wines, the passion of Sue and Warren Smith who are expats from the Sunny Coast doing a terrific job with a big range of grape varieties, with reds like mourvèdre and petit verdot prominent. Sue laughs that, “Our friends said we had rocks in our head taking on the hard work that goes into winemaking – but now the only rocks are on our labels."

 

Girraween Estate is the love child of Lisa and Steve Messiter, who purchased the property in 2009; since then they have won top awards for their shiraz cabernet and chardonnay. They are especially proud of their fruit-driven, crisp and refreshing sparkling wines.

girraween wineries granite belt
Girraween Estate’s Steve Messiter. (Image: Shane Andersen)

There’s something brewing (and distilling)

It’s not just about the wines of the Granite Belt. You’re very welcome to rock up to a brewery or distillery if that’s more your fancy: there are several choices including the boutique Brass Monkey Brew House , the closest to Ballandean; Granite Belt Brewery (with pub-style food, and comfortable cabin accommodation so you don’t need to drive).

granite belt brewery
Granite Belt Brewery. (Image: Geoff Davenport)

Even before a drink, you’ll think you’ve arrived in Scotland. The solar-powered castlelike building reflects the heritage of the Millar family in the British Isles and their service to royalty dating back to the 13th century. The product range includes multi-award-winning whiskies and gins (served on the rocks, naturally) plus a whole range of delicious liqueurs based on the region’s abundant fruit.

castle glen granite belt
Castle Glen.

Donnelly’s Castle – the Bushranger’s hide-out

Not far from Castle Glen you’ll find a spot called Donnelly’s Castle . You can squeeze through crevices in giant granite rock boulders, walk on top of them and enter into cave-like openings. The famed bushranger Captain Thunderbolt once used this rocky outcrop north of Stanthorpe as his hideout and it’s a hidden gem.

Add these to your itinerary, too:

Pack your Esky full of the region’s fresh organic food and artisanal, hand-crafted products. Here are some suggestions:

 

Sutton’s Juice Factory  – For natural juices and handmade apple pies.

suttons farm apple pie granite belt qld
Suttons Farm famed apple pie. (Image: Tourism and Events Queensland)

Ashbern Farms  – Pick your own strawberries and enjoy yummy ice-cream.

 

Stanthorpe Cheese  – For a great selection to accompany your wine purchases.

 

Mt Stirling Olives  – Try the fruity, cold-pressed extra virgin oils.

 

Jamworks Gourmet Foods  – For jams and relishes made from local produce.

 

Anna’s Candles  – For soy-based scents.

 

Washpool Farm Soaperie  – For natural products and soap-making workshops.

Getting there

The Granite Belt region is about three hours’ drive from both Brisbane and the Gold Coast. Check out our Brisbane to Stanthorpe road trip itinerary for more ideas.

Staying there

Accommodation options within the Granite Belt area include B&Bs, cottages and lodges. If you want to get an early start for a walk at Girraween, then Girraween Environmental Lodge , Wisteria Cottage and Girraween Country Inn  are close to the park entrance.

girraween environmental lodge granite belt
Stay at Girraween Environmental Lodge.

For more information visit granitebeltwinecountry.com.au and southernqueenslandcountry.com.au

 

Discover the other destinations and experiences that made it into our Top 100 Ways to Holiday Here This Year special edition of Australian Traveller.
Phil Hawkes
Phillip Hawkes somehow survived a career in tourism marketing, managing ad agencies and PR firms in many locations including London and New York, then finally 25 years based in Hong Kong. He morphed into a travel writer 15 years ago and has had over 120 articles published, focussing on experiences in Asia/Pacific and Europe.
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What it’s really like to stay on the world’s largest sand island

    Kassia ByrnesBy Kassia Byrnes
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    Exploring the world’s largest sand island starts with the perfect K’gari homebase.

    The morning light is still soft, but it’s already a perfect sunny day. We left our K’gari homebase at Kingfisher Bay Resort  with our guide, Peter Meyer, at 9 am to make the most of our time to explore all that the world’s largest sand island holds. The size of K’gari is hard to grasp until you arrive here. This is no sandbar. Stretching 120 kilometres, unique lakes, mangrove systems, rainforest, 75 Miles of beach, historic shipwrecks, small townships and even one of Queensland’s best bakeries are all hidden within its bounds.

    But first, one of the island’s most iconic sights: the pure silica sand and crystal clear waters of Lake McKenzie.

    Laying eyes on it for the first time, I’m finally able to confirm that the photos don’t lie. The sand is pure white, without the merest hint of yellow. The water fades from a light halo of aqua around the edges to a deeper, royal blue, the deeper it gets (not that it’s particularly deep, six metres at most). The surface remains surprisingly undisturbed, like a mirror.

    Arriving with our guide before 10 am means that no one else is around when we get here. Which means we have the pleasure of breaking the smooth surface with our own ripples as we enter. As a self-confessed wimp with chilly water temperatures, my fears are quickly assuaged. Even in the morning, the water stays around 23 degrees – perfect for lazing about all day. But we have more sights to see.

    Exploring K’gari

    ariel of in lake mckenzie on k'gari fraser island
    Relax in the warm waters of Lake McKenzie. (Image: Ayeisha Sheldon)

    This was the Personalised 4WD tour offered by Kingfisher Bay Resort, and my absolute top pick of experiences. Over the course of the day, we had the freedom to create our own bespoke itinerary (plus a provided picnic lunch along the way), with an expert guide who had plenty of stories and local expertise to give context to what we were looking at. From the history of the SS Maheno shipwreck, which survived the First World War only to be washed ashore by a cyclone in 1935, to a detailed description of how an island made of sand could sustain such diverse flora.

    If it’s your first time to K’gari, the Beauty Spots Tour is another great option. Departing daily from Kingfisher Bay Resort (you’ll start to notice a trend, as many of the tours do start and end here), an air-conditioned, 4WD bus takes guests to the island’s most iconic locations, including the best places to swim, like Lake McKenzie and Eli Creek. The latter offers a gentle current, perfect for riding with a blow-up tyre out towards the ocean.

    The next day, for a look at a completely different side of K’gari, I joined one of Kingfisher Bay Resort’s Immersive Ranger-guided tours to kayak through the mangroves of Dundonga Creek. This long, snake-like stretch of creek winds its way inland from the ocean outlet we entered by, at times too narrow for three kayaks to be side-by-side. Small insects buzz from leaf to leaf, while birds call overhead. Occasional bubbles indicate we’ve passed some fish that call this place home.

    kayak tour through the mangroves at k'gari island
    Learn about the island’s mangroves from your Ranger. (Image: Reuben Nutt/ TEQ)

    If kayaking isn’t for you – or if, like me, you simply want more – other ranger-led experiences include nature walks and a dedicated Junior Eco Ranger Program for kids ages five to 12 (these run every weekend, and daily over the peak December holidays). Just ask for a timetable of upcoming tours when you check in.

    While during whale season, Hervey Bay Whale Watch & Charters operates tours from the hotel’s jetty to get up close to the famous Humpback Highway of Hervey Bay, from 7 November to 31 May, attention turns to the Aqua Oasis Cruise . Departing from the resort every Tuesday, Thursday, Saturday and Sunday for resort guests, adventure along the island’s remote western coast, pointing out wildlife like dolphins, turtles, flying fish and eagles along the way.

    The cruise drops anchor so guests can jump into the water using the boat’s equipment – from SUP boards to inflatable slides and jumping platforms. Then refuel with a provided lunch, of course.

    Unwind at sunset

    two people drinking cocktails at sunset bar, kingfisher bay resort
    Unwind at the Sunset Bar. (Image: Sean Scott)

    As much as days on K’gari can be filled with adventure, to me, the afternoons and evenings there are for unwinding. Sunsets on K’gari are absolutely unbelievable, with Kingfisher Bay on the west side being the best spot to catch the colours.

    The Sunset Bar , located at the start of the resort’s jetty and overlooking the beach, is the ultimate location for sundowners. Let chill beats wash over you as you sip on cool wines, beers and cocktails in a relaxed, friendly vibe. Personally, a cheese board was also absolutely called for. As the sun sinks, the sand, sea and horizon turn a vibrant shade of orange, with the jetty casting a dramatic shadow across the water.

    When the show is over, head back to the hotel for dinner at the Asian-fusion Dune restaurant, or the pub-style Sand + Wood. But if your appetite is still whetted for more lights and colours, the evening isn’t over yet.

    Settle into the Illumina stage for Return to Sky, an immersive light and sound show leading viewers on a captivating journey through K’gari’s stories and landscapes.

    Indulge and disconnect

    woman setting up massage room at kingfisher bay resort Island Day Spa
    Find bliss at Island Day Spa. (Image: Jessica Miocevich)

    Of course, there is a type of traveller who knows that balance is important, day or night. While Kingfisher Bay Resort offers more than one pool for guests to spend all day lounging by (they’ll even serve you food and drinks while you do it), you’ll find me at the Island Day Spa.

    The masseuses could match the magic hands of any big city spa, and I felt the warm welcome as I walked into the light, breezy reception. Choose from a range of botanical facials, beauty treatments and soothing massages using traditional techniques (obviously, I couldn’t go past a relaxing massage). All products used contain organic, native botanical ingredients with nutrient-rich plant extracts to soothe skin and mind. To really indulge, try out one of the packages, couples treatment or even a pre-wedding day offering.

    Getting there

    kingfisher bay resort 4wd tour driving passed ss maheno on k'gari island
    The world of K’gari awaits. (Image: Jessica Miocevich)

    Getting to K’gari is shockingly easy. Find daily flights into Hervey Bay from Brisbane, Melbourne and Sydney. Kingfisher Bay Resort offers a shuttle bus between the airport, their headquarters in Hervey Bay and the ferry to take you to K’gari.