Hotel Review: Hinchinbrook Wilderness Lodge, QLD

Australian TravellerBy Australian Traveller
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HINCHINBROOK WILDERNESS LODGE is currently closed as it has been destroyed by cyclones and fire. We hope it will be reborn soon.

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Escape to Hinchinbrook Island Wilderness Lodge, an island tree house in far north Queensland for a taste of extreme arboreal luxury.

It’s to be our luxury escape, a little sanity break from the tiny caravan we’re currently calling home as we trip around the Australian countryside. No matter how much you love someone, living in such a confined space has its limits.

 

It is therefore with lofty expectations and high spirits that my husband and I board the ferry from Cardwell across to Hinchinbrook Island on the Great Barrier Reef off the coast of north Queensland. We’ve chosen Hinchinbrook over Queensland’s many other islands largely because of its reputation as a rugged wilderness area. Hinchinbrook covers nearly 400km2, all of which is national park, making it the world’s largest island national park.

 

It’s totally undeveloped except for the Hinchinbrook Island Wilderness Lodge, a small low-key resort on the northern peninsula, Cape Richards. The resort offers some older self-contained beach cabins, but it was the tree houses that caught our eye. Linked by a series of wooden walkways, these lofty cabins sit above the main lodge area, nestled among the treetops, with views over the island and pretty Orchid Beach below. Our caravan safely stored, we’re looking forward to life in a tree house for the next few days.

 

As we approach the island the sheer scale of the landmass is impressive. Steep forest-covered granite mountains rise dramatically from white beaches and mangrove-lined shores. The island’s highest peak, Mount Bowen, stretches into the overcast sky, clouds clinging to its upper slopes like white fairy floss on a stick. A brisk wind chops the water and, encouraged by our enthusiastic and informative skipper, we keep our eyes peeled for resident dugongs.

 

Our first impressions of the resort unfortunately aren’t quite as good. We’re greeted pleasantly but after the obligatory “welcome drink" the young lass showing us to our much-anticipated tree house can’t actually seem to find our cabin. We walk back and forth along the boardwalk exchanging nervous glances as she flits between the different tree houses searching for our room number. In the end my husband bolts up a rather steep set of stairs and yells down that he’s found it.

 

Upon entering our tree house, any problems we’ve just experienced quickly fade into the background. We’ve managed to score one of the best on the island and grin at each other as we climb to our high cabin through rocks and tree trunks. The tree house has been built to blend with the environment and a large boulder forms part of the bedroom wall, while the wooden balcony is shaped around the surrounding trees.

 

There are timber floors and glass windows form the front wall of both the bedroom and the comfortable lounge area, making the most of the vista. Admittedly the building is a little rundown and in need of some TLC; a few doors and windows don’t work properly and for the money we’re spending (the price of a high quality hotel room) we’d expected a little more polish. Nevertheless, the location and novelty factor make up for the shortcomings.

 

While on the island, when we aren’t playing in our tree house, we embark on some great rainforest walks which empty onto deserted beaches, watch the prolific local bird and animal life, relax in deck chairs on Orchid Beach and make the most of the resort canoes. We also take a guided hike to Nina Peak – one of the island’s lower and more accessible mountains, accessed from beautiful Ramsay Beach (reached via a boat trip from the lodge). It’s a worthwhile climb with wonderful views and a fantastic spot for a picnic at the top.

 

Our friendly guide, Wilson, adds to the experience with his extensive knowledge of the island and surrounds. In the evenings we more than replenish our energy at the resort restaurant. A full meal package at Hinchinbrook is pricey, so not wanting to totally crack the budget we’ve brought food across with us for breakfast and lunch, and indulge in meals out at night. The food is exceptionally good, from creative entrees to wonderful mains featuring freshly caught fish and, my favourite, decadent melt-in-the-mouth chocolate desserts. The meals outclass the restaurant service, which is adequate but nothing more.

 

Before we know it, it’s time to return to our more humble living quarters and we board the ferry back to Cardwell. Overall we’re glad we chose Hinchinbrook. The island is a true retreat, rich in natural beauty with plenty to offer outdoor types. Plus, if you decide to spend a little extra, you can play in a tree house designed just for grownups.

The Details:

Where: Hinchinbrook Island Wilderness Lodge. Off the coast of Cardwell, north Qld.
Best months to go: Dry season, May-Sept, the resort closes during the wet season from Jan 14 to April 1.
Cost: 1-bedroom Tree House $350 per night, 2-bedroom Tree House $410 per night.
Phone: 1800 777 021
Website: www.hinchinbrookresort.com.au

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What it’s really like to stay on the world’s largest sand island

    Kassia ByrnesBy Kassia Byrnes
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    Exploring the world’s largest sand island starts with the perfect K’gari homebase.

    The morning light is still soft, but it’s already a perfect sunny day. We left our K’gari homebase at Kingfisher Bay Resort  with our guide, Peter Meyer, at 9 am to make the most of our time to explore all that the world’s largest sand island holds. The size of K’gari is hard to grasp until you arrive here. This is no sandbar. Stretching 120 kilometres, unique lakes, mangrove systems, rainforest, 75 Miles of beach, historic shipwrecks, small townships and even one of Queensland’s best bakeries are all hidden within its bounds.

    But first, one of the island’s most iconic sights: the pure silica sand and crystal clear waters of Lake McKenzie.

    Laying eyes on it for the first time, I’m finally able to confirm that the photos don’t lie. The sand is pure white, without the merest hint of yellow. The water fades from a light halo of aqua around the edges to a deeper, royal blue, the deeper it gets (not that it’s particularly deep, six metres at most). The surface remains surprisingly undisturbed, like a mirror.

    Arriving with our guide before 10 am means that no one else is around when we get here. Which means we have the pleasure of breaking the smooth surface with our own ripples as we enter. As a self-confessed wimp with chilly water temperatures, my fears are quickly assuaged. Even in the morning, the water stays around 23 degrees – perfect for lazing about all day. But we have more sights to see.

    Exploring K’gari

    ariel of in lake mckenzie on k'gari fraser island
    Relax in the warm waters of Lake McKenzie. (Image: Ayeisha Sheldon)

    This was the Personalised 4WD tour offered by Kingfisher Bay Resort, and my absolute top pick of experiences. Over the course of the day, we had the freedom to create our own bespoke itinerary (plus a provided picnic lunch along the way), with an expert guide who had plenty of stories and local expertise to give context to what we were looking at. From the history of the SS Maheno shipwreck, which survived the First World War only to be washed ashore by a cyclone in 1935, to a detailed description of how an island made of sand could sustain such diverse flora.

    If it’s your first time to K’gari, the Beauty Spots Tour is another great option. Departing daily from Kingfisher Bay Resort (you’ll start to notice a trend, as many of the tours do start and end here), an air-conditioned, 4WD bus takes guests to the island’s most iconic locations, including the best places to swim, like Lake McKenzie and Eli Creek. The latter offers a gentle current, perfect for riding with a blow-up tyre out towards the ocean.

    The next day, for a look at a completely different side of K’gari, I joined one of Kingfisher Bay Resort’s Immersive Ranger-guided tours to kayak through the mangroves of Dundonga Creek. This long, snake-like stretch of creek winds its way inland from the ocean outlet we entered by, at times too narrow for three kayaks to be side-by-side. Small insects buzz from leaf to leaf, while birds call overhead. Occasional bubbles indicate we’ve passed some fish that call this place home.

    kayak tour through the mangroves at k'gari island
    Learn about the island’s mangroves from your Ranger. (Image: Reuben Nutt/ TEQ)

    If kayaking isn’t for you – or if, like me, you simply want more – other ranger-led experiences include nature walks and a dedicated Junior Eco Ranger Program for kids ages five to 12 (these run every weekend, and daily over the peak December holidays). Just ask for a timetable of upcoming tours when you check in.

    While during whale season, Hervey Bay Whale Watch & Charters operates tours from the hotel’s jetty to get up close to the famous Humpback Highway of Hervey Bay, from 7 November to 31 May, attention turns to the Aqua Oasis Cruise . Departing from the resort every Tuesday, Thursday, Saturday and Sunday for resort guests, adventure along the island’s remote western coast, pointing out wildlife like dolphins, turtles, flying fish and eagles along the way.

    The cruise drops anchor so guests can jump into the water using the boat’s equipment – from SUP boards to inflatable slides and jumping platforms. Then refuel with a provided lunch, of course.

    Unwind at sunset

    two people drinking cocktails at sunset bar, kingfisher bay resort
    Unwind at the Sunset Bar. (Image: Sean Scott)

    As much as days on K’gari can be filled with adventure, to me, the afternoons and evenings there are for unwinding. Sunsets on K’gari are absolutely unbelievable, with Kingfisher Bay on the west side being the best spot to catch the colours.

    The Sunset Bar , located at the start of the resort’s jetty and overlooking the beach, is the ultimate location for sundowners. Let chill beats wash over you as you sip on cool wines, beers and cocktails in a relaxed, friendly vibe. Personally, a cheese board was also absolutely called for. As the sun sinks, the sand, sea and horizon turn a vibrant shade of orange, with the jetty casting a dramatic shadow across the water.

    When the show is over, head back to the hotel for dinner at the Asian-fusion Dune restaurant, or the pub-style Sand + Wood. But if your appetite is still whetted for more lights and colours, the evening isn’t over yet.

    Settle into the Illumina stage for Return to Sky, an immersive light and sound show leading viewers on a captivating journey through K’gari’s stories and landscapes.

    Indulge and disconnect

    woman setting up massage room at kingfisher bay resort Island Day Spa
    Find bliss at Island Day Spa. (Image: Jessica Miocevich)

    Of course, there is a type of traveller who knows that balance is important, day or night. While Kingfisher Bay Resort offers more than one pool for guests to spend all day lounging by (they’ll even serve you food and drinks while you do it), you’ll find me at the Island Day Spa.

    The masseuses could match the magic hands of any big city spa, and I felt the warm welcome as I walked into the light, breezy reception. Choose from a range of botanical facials, beauty treatments and soothing massages using traditional techniques (obviously, I couldn’t go past a relaxing massage). All products used contain organic, native botanical ingredients with nutrient-rich plant extracts to soothe skin and mind. To really indulge, try out one of the packages, couples treatment or even a pre-wedding day offering.

    Getting there

    kingfisher bay resort 4wd tour driving passed ss maheno on k'gari island
    The world of K’gari awaits. (Image: Jessica Miocevich)

    Getting to K’gari is shockingly easy. Find daily flights into Hervey Bay from Brisbane, Melbourne and Sydney. Kingfisher Bay Resort offers a shuttle bus between the airport, their headquarters in Hervey Bay and the ferry to take you to K’gari.