Birdsville10 things to do besides the races

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The Birdsville Races is an Australian outback bucket list item of mythical proportions, with around 7000 pilgrims covering thousands of kilometres to swarm on the remote Queensland town each September (since 1882). But Birdsville ain’t no one horse-race town. If you make it that far into the outback, you should do Birdsville thoroughly. So here are the 10 other must do’s. (words: Steve Madgwick)

1. The pub of many hats

'Hard yard' hats Birdsville Hotel Queensland photo: Steve Madgwick
‘Hard yard’ hats – Birdsville Hotel, outback Queensland (photo: Steve Madgwick).

Don’t just stop outside and snap the obligatory photo of one of the most photogenic outback pubs in Australia (circa 1884) – although you won’t be able to help yourself.

 

Step inside the Birdsville Hotel, reward yourself with a cold beverage and a bite to eat and marvel at the memorabilia. Start by counting the hats stuck to the ceiling of the public bar, each one representing someone who has done the “hard yards" in Birdsville (representing those who have spent more than a year here).

 

The food and accommodation are as good as anywhere you’ll get for miles and miles and miles around.

2. Try a camel pie

camel pie Birdsville Bakery photo Steve Madgwick
The ‘C’ means it’s a camel pie, Birdsville Bakery (photo: Steve Madgwick).

For the adventurous gastronomist, wander across the oval to Birdsville Bakery to sample the town’s culinary gift to the world: the camel pie.

 

Marked with a big ‘C’ on top of the crust, the $6 pastry has a curry zing and a lamb-like texture, the tender minced meat is not lumpy or humpy.

 

If camel’s a trek too far for you, try the kangaroo and claret pie or the berri quandong tart. It’s also extra special because Birdsville’s is one of only a handful of licensed bakeries in Australia.

Birdsville bakery outback Queensland
The (licensed) Birdsville Bakery, outback Queensland.

3. Play in the big red sand pit

Big Red dune Simpson Desert
The 40-metre high Big Red dune, gateway to the Simpson Desert (and 4WDers funpark). (Photo: Steve Madgwick).

Thirty-five kilometres west of the town, along an unsealed but passable road (as long as it’s dry), the trademark ochre dunes of the Simpson Desert begin.

 

Closest to Birdsville are Little Red and Big Red (40 metres high), which are the gateway to the Simpson traverse for hard-core 4WDers.

 

Please note that Big Red is on private land so show respect accordingly. At sunset and sunrise, you’ll get to see why Simpson is truly a redhead.

4. Run and then bash

The Big Red Run seems like a crazy idea – a 250-kilometre foot race through the Simpson Desert – but funds raised from the event go towards great causes (including childhood diabetes), and all the athletes are consenting adults.

 

Ultra-marathoners from all around compete in the equivalent of 5 marathons in 6 days.

 

Directly after the run, the now annual Big Red Bash , a two-day concert featuring Australian rock royalty, is held on a makeshift stage constructed at the bottom of Big Red, creating a huge desert amphitheatre.

 

It’s fast becoming a pilgrimage that one day may challenge the races for sheer numbers making the trip.

5. The culture quest

While there are no major art spots in the area, there are some sites of significance for traditional custodians of the area, the Wangkangurru-Yarluyandi people.

 

A tour can be arrange to the Two Boys Dreaming site from the Wirrarri Information Centre (you can’t miss it).

 

While you’re at Wirrarri, browse the attached gallery for some amazing desert-scape photography and local art.

6. Swimming outback style

The pub is only one of the ways to cool down in town.

 

A nice stroll past the bakery will take you to Birdsville Billabong – great for a dip, a yabby hunt or for birdwatchers.

 

For a more adventurous style of outback swim, ask the locals if any of the surrounding (seasonal) waterholes are ripe for a dip. Make sure you get permission first, because many are on private land.

7. Waddi type of trees are they?

Head north out of town (14 kilometres towards Bedourie) and you will happen upon the fish-out-of-water rare desert waddi trees (seeds from these trees were discovered in Wills’ diary).

 

Some of the trees are said to a 1000 years old and their wood is abnormally hard.

 

The best vantage point to see the waddis is atop the mysteriously named Dingo Caves (note, there are no actual dingoes in the caves).

8. Day-tripping the easy way

There are plenty of legendary outback landmarks close (in a bush context) to Birdsville but just far enough out of town to make them too challenging for first-time 4WD-ers short of recovery and bush skills (or for those flying in).

 

Local company Deserts Edge Tours operates organised and bespoke excursions to places such as Cameron Corner (where Queensland, South Australia and New South Wales meet) or Poeppel Corner (where Queensland, South Australia and the Northern Territory meet) in its huge, dune-munching 4WD-bus hybrid.

 

For an aerial perspective of Channel Country, Central Eagle Aviation offer charters and joy flights such as 30-minutes over Big Red.

9. Burke and Wills legacy

Many towns around Australia’s centre have a Burke and Wills encounter story, as does Birdsville.

 

Evidence of the ludicrously intrepid pair’s connection to the area stands about three kilometres south of the centre where one of them is said to have slashed a tree, which still stands today.

 

It’s a subtle but worthy notch on your outback belt.

10. Fly the milk run

For those who fly (instead of drive) from Birdsville back to Brisbane you won’t get that slow-burn iconic outback trip moment, but you’ll have your own unique experience to talk about.

 

The Milk Run, the REX flight back to Brisbane, touches down at a handful of outback towns you’ve probably never been to before, including Windorah, Quilpie and Charleville.

 

The steward has to repeat the safety talk every time you take-off despite the fact the passengers are basically the same. Expect a complimentary beverage and biscuit on every leg too.

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8 experiences that make Moreton Bay the best getaway

    Rachel LayBy Rachel Lay
    From the moment you arrive in Moreton Bay, stunning natural vistas, fresh and tasty dining, history and more invite you to stay and play.

    Untouched national park, mirror-like lagoons and endless stretches of beaches all make Moreton Bay experiences feel like you’ve stumbled across a secret Queenslanders collectively vowed not to tell. Yet it’s easily accessible. Explore further and discover hinterland farms, ancient rainforest, fresh seafood and more: there’s something on offer for every pace, interest and generation.

    Just 20 minutes from Brisbane Airport, it’s hard to believe how underrated this Queensland getaway is. Here’s your ultimate guide to rediscover play with unmissable experiences in Moreton Bay.

    1. G’Day Adventure Tours, Bribie Island

    G’Day Adventure Tours’ Sea to Table Experience
    Explore Bribie Island with G’Day Adventure Tours.

    G’Day Adventure Tours’ Sea to Table Experience should be your first agenda item in Moreton Bay. Take a 4WD journey through the sandy tracks of Bribie Island’s beaches to the still, glassy waters of the island’s lagoons. Glide over perfect replicas of paperbarks and fluffy blue clouds mirrored in the lagoon waters in your kayak. Listen as native birdsong echoes around you.

    Then, it’s on to Fort Bribie. During the Second World War, these concrete bunkers – now slowly being enveloped by the dunes – were the last line of defence for Moreton Bay.

    End the day with a sun-dappled beach picnic of locally caught Queensland prawns and famous Moreton Bay bugs. As you head home, watch the dolphins playfully dart in and out of the surf.

    2. Morgan’s Seafood at Scarborough

    Morgan’s Seafood
    It doesn’t get fresher than Morgan’s Seafood. (Image: Ezra Patchett)

    Right on the Scarborough Boat Harbour, you’ll find Morgan’s Seafood . Between the luxury yachts, you’ll also spot trawlers and fishermen delivering their day’s catch right to Morgan’s. The family-owned and operated spot is one of the best places to try the region’s eponymous Moreton Bay bug. Or, sample more of the area’s direct-from-the-boat seafood fresh at their oyster and sushi bar. If you’re lucky, your visit might coincide with a day they’ve caught tuna.

    Picture fish caught that day, prepared and then served to you as fresh sashimi as the sun sets over the unique silhouette of the Glasshouse Mountains.

    3. Woorim Beach, Bribie Island

    woorim beach bribie island
    Hang 10, or relax, on Woorim Beach.

    On Bribie’s eastern coastline, you’ll find Woorim Beach : aka the closest surf beach to Brisbane. Find a place on the sand by the patrolled area or wander further south to find a quiet spot and while the day away between the shaded dunes, the pages of your book and the peaceful sound of rolling waves.

    Ask any local where to grab lunch, and they’ll direct you to Bribie Island Surf Club Bistro . Tuck into a fresh, local seafood platter, just metres from the beach.

    4. D’Aguilar National Park

    D’Aguilar National Park
    Admire the landscapes of D’Aguilar National Park.

    D’Aguilar National Park is a 40,000-hectare slice of greenery that stretches from urban Brisbane right up to Woodford (home of the Woodford Folk Festival). The vast expanse of park is home to ancient rainforests, eucalypt forests and shaded swimming spots hidden within gorges and under waterfalls. The area is significant for the Jinibara and Turrbal people, with ceremonial bora rings and dreaming trails all found within the park.

    Carve out some time in your itinerary to explore the park’s many trails. The Maiala day-use area is the perfect starting point for walks for all levels of ability.

    5. Arcade Wine Bar

    arcade wine bar moreton bay
    Sit down to a menu inspired by Italy.

    Opposite the Redcliffe Jetty and down a laneway, you’ll find an unassuming wine bar. Venture inside and quickly fall in love with Arcade Wine Bar , one of the region’s most beloved local haunts.

    Owners Danilo and Matt have a combined 50 years of sommelier experience, which they have poured into the menu, styling and wine list. More than just a hole-in-the-wall wine bar, Arcade Wine is an enoteca (a wine repository), whose walls are lined with bottles upon bottles of Italian wine varietals from every corner of Italy.

    Settle in with a wine and work your way through the menu inspired by Danilo’s native Italy: traditional meatballs, their quick-to-sell-out terrine, or a selection of Italian cheeses, charcuterie and arancini.

    6. Wamuran & Loop Rail Trail

    Away from the ocean, tucked in the hinterland, is the Wamuran & Loop Rail Trail . Perfect for cyclists or walkers, the trail was built to showcase the history of the Caboolture to Kilcoy rail corridor (last operating in 1964) and makes for the perfect family day out. The trail runs for 10.5km and connects Wamuran and Caboolture via an accessible path.

    Pass through former railroad, bridges and shaded bushland as you cut from A to B. Plus, visit in winter for a detour along the way to one of the many pick-your-own strawberry farms.

    7. Farm Visits

    Beaches, mountains and history make an enticing combination. But Moreton Bay also brings hinterland, family-friendly farms to the table. Trevena Glen is one of the area’s most loved, with bunnies, ponies, sheep, alpacas (and more) available to visit for the kids. For the adults, book a horse-riding session and be treated to a grazing platter as you watch the sun set over the mountains of D’Aguilar National Park.

    At White Ridge Farm , find camels, putt-putt, train and tractor rides and all kinds of animals. The entire farm is paved, making it accessible for all.

    8. Miss Sprinkles

    Miss Sprinkles Gelato moreton bay
    Pick your scoop at Miss Sprinkles Gelato.

    An ice cream at the beach is one of life’s most perfect pleasures. While in town, stop by Miss Sprinkles for the locals’ pick of homemade gelato on the Scarborough foreshore.

    The gelato here is made the authentic Italian way and scooped up just across from the beach. Or, settle in at their kitschy pink wooden tables for traditional gelato in the sunshine.  Aside from the homemade gelato, you’ll also find tarts, pies and even doggie gelato.

    To start planning your Moreton Bay trip, or for more information, head to visitmoretonbay.com.au.