Queensland outback you’ve been waiting for (its chic)

Dilvin YasaBy Dilvin Yasa
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Planning a trip around the Sunshine State’s heartland? There’s no reason to forego life’s little luxuries.

We’ve said it before and we’ll say it again: nothing says ‘outback Queensland road trip’ quite like tackling Australia’s wealth of rustic, centuries-old pubs, quirky personalities and yes, those quintessential chicken parmies.

Out here, driving long stretches of open road is a given, but the good news is the experience no longer needs to be bookended with roadside motels and takeaway food. Indeed, dig a little deeper (watch for the dinosaur bones prevalent in this area) and you’ll find a world filled with stylish stays and activities that elevate the beauty of the region.

Cobb and Co Stagecoach Experience, Outback queensland
You’ll find a world filled with activities that elevate the beauty of the region like a Cobb and Co Stagecoach Experience.

Are you ready? It’s time to go and purchase that Akubra!

Stylish Queensland Outback Accommodation

Whether you’re dreaming about a safari-style glamping experience, a quaint cottage with a romantic outdoor bath or a luxurious outback station stay, outback Queensland has got every whim and desire covered.

Mitchell Grass Retreat, Outback Queensland
Outback Queensland has got every whim and desire covered.

At Longreach, long considered the heart and soul of the state’s outback, Mitchell Grass Retreat serves up 15 luxury en suite tents for those looking to enjoy the surrounding Mitchell Grass Plains in style. Each tent features an en suite bathroom with tub, air conditioning, European appliances and a private deck, while an onsite saltwater pool, communal fire pit, Wi-fi and a list of activities to enjoy nearby completes the experience. For those who prefer a more remote glamping experience steeped in Indigenous and wildlife experiences, Wallaroo Outback Retreat , curled around the sandstone cliffs of the Carnarvon Ranges, is also an experience not easily forgotten.

Glamping Outback Queensland Mitchell Grass Retreat
A Gidyea glamping tent at Mitchell Grass retreat on the Muttaburra Road just outside Longreach. Image Mitchell Grass Reatret

Prefer your accommodation to be a little more… traditional? Longreach is also home to Saltbush Retreat, a spectacular property where you can choose between the rustic, 4.5-star Homestead Stables, the 4-star Slab Huts or the Outback Cabins. The Homestead Stables are beautifully appointed to tell the full outback story, with old gates repurposed as bedheads and rustic troughs fashioned into bed bases. The stables also feature fully equipped kitchens and air conditioning and provide access to the all-important outdoor bath terrace where you can enjoy the ultimate soak with a view. Happily, a swimming pool, Wi-fi and barbecue facilities can also be found on the property.

Saltbush Retreat, Outback Queensland
Choose between the rustic, 4.5-star Homestead Stables, the 4-star Slab Huts or the Outback Cabins at Saltbush Retreat.

Meanwhile,  you will find Moble Homestead in Quilpie on the banks of the Bulloo River. Here, you can choose between a variety of accommodation options (everything from a rustic-looking hut with luxurious finishes to the shearer’s quarters) and the list of activities is just as joyful. Fancy some tennis, cooking classes or a dedicated walking package? The competitive all-inclusive rates can be tailored to whatever your heart desires.

Outback Queensland Experiences & Tours

Car karaoke aside, remote outback regions aren’t usually renowned for their entertainment value, yet there’s surprisingly plenty to do in outback Queensland.

Drovers Sunset Cruise, Thomson River, Longreach QLD
Enjoy a relaxing and ridiculously scenic Thomson River cruise with Drover’s Sunset Cruise. (Image Tourism & Events Queensland)

For those who like to plan their activities around the sunset (and with colours like this, why wouldn’t you?), there are a plethora of options. Thrill-seekers will enjoy a scenic helicopter flight from Winton with Outback From Above, while those who like to keep their feet firmly on cracked terra firma might prefer Rangelands Rifts and Sunset Tour . The latter, run by Red Dirt Tours at Winton, is a three-hour experience exploring the rifts (narrow channels created from erosion) at Rangelands Station before nibbles and (BYO) drinks are enjoyed from the sunset lookout.

Of course everybody needs a middle ground, and for those there is the opportunity to enjoy a relaxing and ridiculously scenic Thomson River cruise with Drover’s Sunset Cruise with Outback Aussie tours in Longreach. Refreshments are enjoyed onboard as the sun dips its head and then it’s off for a two-course camp-oven dinner at Smithy’s Outback Dinner and Show (included with the tour).

Smithy’s Outback Dinner and Show, Outback Queensland
Enjoy a two-course camp-oven dinner at Smithy’s Outback Dinner and Show.

Keen to immerse yourself in the rich history of the region instead? Qantas Founders Museum has long been a tourism mainstay of Longreach for its life-size exhibits and artefacts, but it brings entertainment to a whole new level with Luminescent Longreach . A 20-minute night-time sound and light experience designed to awe, this brings the 100-year story of Qantas to life with a Boeing 747 serving as the primary canvas.

Luminescent Longreach, Outback Queensland
Luminescent Longreach brings the 100-year story of Qantas to life with a Boeing 747 serving as the primary canvas.

Still in Longreach, Australian Stockman’s Hall of Fame is set to reopen with all-new exhibits and state-of-the-art interactive technology. Check out the themed galleries of Australia’s pioneering history, get up close and personal with the stars (both human and four-legged) at Stockman’s live show and enjoy a 20-minute journey for all senses with a cinematic experience.  The cherry on top? A Cobb and Co Stagecoach Experience with Outback Pioneers . There’s simply no better way to put yourself in our pioneer past.

Australian Stockman’s Hall of Fame, Outback Queensland
Australian Stockman’s Hall of Fame is set to reopen with all-new exhibits and state-of-the-art interactive technology.

Just don’t forget to add a day of real-life dinosaur bone digging at Winton’s Australian Age of Dinosaurs (tour and dino-prep options available as well), followed by a visit to the Waltzing Matilda Centre . Showcasing the story of Winton, the outback and, yes, that much-loved song, it is quintessential outback Queensland.

Winton’s Australian Age of Dinosaurs, Outback Queensland
Don’t forget to add a day of real-life dinosaur bone digging at Winton’s Australian Age of Dinosaurs.

Great food in Outback Queensland

Michelin star fine dining might not yet be a feature of the outback, but there are many modern Australian dining experiences to enjoy.

 

Royal Carrangarra in Tambo is famous for its chicken parmigianas and spaghetti meatballs in the shape of a Tambo Teddy, but punters are just as enthusiastic about the venue’s quirky weekly event: chicken racing.

 

Of course, those in the mood for unique pub experience can also add Queensland’s oldest pub, Nindigully Pub , in Nindigully, for one of its gargantuan road-train burgers (they feed four people minimum) and an ice-cold beer in its beer garden. Fancy a camel burger or pie instead? Shuttered by COVID-19, Birdsville Bakery is due to reopen its doors in 2021.

Nindigully Pub, in Nindigully
Queensland’s oldest pub, Nindigully Pub, in Nindigully.

And finally, if you’re in the mood for a cheeky croissant, muffin or pastry with a side of boutique browsing, be sure to lock in some quality time in one of the outback cafes offering the best of both worlds. Elegant Emu in Adavale is famous for its premium high tea experience and ever-changing patisserie menu (so much cake, such little time), while Blackall’s The Lodge on Hawthorn comes to the party with a sophisticated menu and a range of quirky finds. Over in Charleville,  Charlotte’s Nest is the place to spend an easy morning with a nice slice of carrot cake and a pot of tea, and the good news is that coffee drinkers won’t be left in the cold either. ReX Coffee & Food in Roma might be known for its decadent desserts (Caramello Koala hot tub muffins, anyone?), but its coffee tastes like a dream. Just the fuel required to start that long drive back to city life.

Outback Queensland, scones
Be sure to lock in some quality time in one of the outback cafes offering the best croissants, muffins and pastries.
Dilvin Yasa
Dilvin Yasa is a freelance journalist, author and TV presenter whose travels have taken her from the iceberg graveyards of Antarctica to the roaring rapids of Uganda. Always on the lookout for that next unforgettable meal, wildlife moment or 80s-themed nightclub, she is inexplicably drawn to polar destinations despite detesting the cold.
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What it’s really like to stay on the world’s largest sand island

    Kassia ByrnesBy Kassia Byrnes
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    Exploring the world’s largest sand island starts with the perfect K’gari homebase.

    The morning light is still soft, but it’s already a perfect sunny day. We left our K’gari homebase at Kingfisher Bay Resort  with our guide, Peter Meyer, at 9 am to make the most of our time to explore all that the world’s largest sand island holds. The size of K’gari is hard to grasp until you arrive here. This is no sandbar. Stretching 120 kilometres, unique lakes, mangrove systems, rainforest, 75 Miles of beach, historic shipwrecks, small townships and even one of Queensland’s best bakeries are all hidden within its bounds.

    But first, one of the island’s most iconic sights: the pure silica sand and crystal clear waters of Lake McKenzie.

    Laying eyes on it for the first time, I’m finally able to confirm that the photos don’t lie. The sand is pure white, without the merest hint of yellow. The water fades from a light halo of aqua around the edges to a deeper, royal blue, the deeper it gets (not that it’s particularly deep, six metres at most). The surface remains surprisingly undisturbed, like a mirror.

    Arriving with our guide before 10 am means that no one else is around when we get here. Which means we have the pleasure of breaking the smooth surface with our own ripples as we enter. As a self-confessed wimp with chilly water temperatures, my fears are quickly assuaged. Even in the morning, the water stays around 23 degrees – perfect for lazing about all day. But we have more sights to see.

    Exploring K’gari

    ariel of in lake mckenzie on k'gari fraser island
    Relax in the warm waters of Lake McKenzie. (Image: Ayeisha Sheldon)

    This was the Personalised 4WD tour offered by Kingfisher Bay Resort, and my absolute top pick of experiences. Over the course of the day, we had the freedom to create our own bespoke itinerary (plus a provided picnic lunch along the way), with an expert guide who had plenty of stories and local expertise to give context to what we were looking at. From the history of the SS Maheno shipwreck, which survived the First World War only to be washed ashore by a cyclone in 1935, to a detailed description of how an island made of sand could sustain such diverse flora.

    If it’s your first time to K’gari, the Beauty Spots Tour is another great option. Departing daily from Kingfisher Bay Resort (you’ll start to notice a trend, as many of the tours do start and end here), an air-conditioned, 4WD bus takes guests to the island’s most iconic locations, including the best places to swim, like Lake McKenzie and Eli Creek. The latter offers a gentle current, perfect for riding with a blow-up tyre out towards the ocean.

    The next day, for a look at a completely different side of K’gari, I joined one of Kingfisher Bay Resort’s Immersive Ranger-guided tours to kayak through the mangroves of Dundonga Creek. This long, snake-like stretch of creek winds its way inland from the ocean outlet we entered by, at times too narrow for three kayaks to be side-by-side. Small insects buzz from leaf to leaf, while birds call overhead. Occasional bubbles indicate we’ve passed some fish that call this place home.

    kayak tour through the mangroves at k'gari island
    Learn about the island’s mangroves from your Ranger. (Image: Reuben Nutt/ TEQ)

    If kayaking isn’t for you – or if, like me, you simply want more – other ranger-led experiences include nature walks and a dedicated Junior Eco Ranger Program for kids ages five to 12 (these run every weekend, and daily over the peak December holidays). Just ask for a timetable of upcoming tours when you check in.

    While during whale season, Hervey Bay Whale Watch & Charters operates tours from the hotel’s jetty to get up close to the famous Humpback Highway of Hervey Bay, from 7 November to 31 May, attention turns to the Aqua Oasis Cruise . Departing from the resort every Tuesday, Thursday, Saturday and Sunday for resort guests, adventure along the island’s remote western coast, pointing out wildlife like dolphins, turtles, flying fish and eagles along the way.

    The cruise drops anchor so guests can jump into the water using the boat’s equipment – from SUP boards to inflatable slides and jumping platforms. Then refuel with a provided lunch, of course.

    Unwind at sunset

    two people drinking cocktails at sunset bar, kingfisher bay resort
    Unwind at the Sunset Bar. (Image: Sean Scott)

    As much as days on K’gari can be filled with adventure, to me, the afternoons and evenings there are for unwinding. Sunsets on K’gari are absolutely unbelievable, with Kingfisher Bay on the west side being the best spot to catch the colours.

    The Sunset Bar , located at the start of the resort’s jetty and overlooking the beach, is the ultimate location for sundowners. Let chill beats wash over you as you sip on cool wines, beers and cocktails in a relaxed, friendly vibe. Personally, a cheese board was also absolutely called for. As the sun sinks, the sand, sea and horizon turn a vibrant shade of orange, with the jetty casting a dramatic shadow across the water.

    When the show is over, head back to the hotel for dinner at the Asian-fusion Dune restaurant, or the pub-style Sand + Wood. But if your appetite is still whetted for more lights and colours, the evening isn’t over yet.

    Settle into the Illumina stage for Return to Sky, an immersive light and sound show leading viewers on a captivating journey through K’gari’s stories and landscapes.

    Indulge and disconnect

    woman setting up massage room at kingfisher bay resort Island Day Spa
    Find bliss at Island Day Spa. (Image: Jessica Miocevich)

    Of course, there is a type of traveller who knows that balance is important, day or night. While Kingfisher Bay Resort offers more than one pool for guests to spend all day lounging by (they’ll even serve you food and drinks while you do it), you’ll find me at the Island Day Spa.

    The masseuses could match the magic hands of any big city spa, and I felt the warm welcome as I walked into the light, breezy reception. Choose from a range of botanical facials, beauty treatments and soothing massages using traditional techniques (obviously, I couldn’t go past a relaxing massage). All products used contain organic, native botanical ingredients with nutrient-rich plant extracts to soothe skin and mind. To really indulge, try out one of the packages, couples treatment or even a pre-wedding day offering.

    Getting there

    kingfisher bay resort 4wd tour driving passed ss maheno on k'gari island
    The world of K’gari awaits. (Image: Jessica Miocevich)

    Getting to K’gari is shockingly easy. Find daily flights into Hervey Bay from Brisbane, Melbourne and Sydney. Kingfisher Bay Resort offers a shuttle bus between the airport, their headquarters in Hervey Bay and the ferry to take you to K’gari.