Unearth the surprises of the Scenic Rim

Phil HawkesBy Phil Hawkes
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From camelcinos to Eweghurt, discover the dairy delights of the scenic rim, and plenty more surprises besides.

Known as the ‘green behind the gold’ or the ‘green cauldron’, Queensland’s Scenic Rim is an ancient volcanic land far removed from the glamour of the Gold Coast, less than a two-hour drive away. The traditional country of the Yugambeh people, with World Heritage-listed rainforest and six national parks spread over an area of some 4000 square kilometres, driving the region offers up scenery and surprises aplenty.

eweghurt towri sheep cheesery
Towri Sheep Cheesery’s famous Eweghurt.

Say cheese

Driving just over an hour from Brisbane, I come to the small village of Harrisville. It’s green, undulating country caressed by recent rains, a typical scene of rustic Australian charm. So far, so normal until I pass a sign reading Summer Land Camel Farm.

 

Down a dirt track I go and there they are: camels and more camels. Some come running to greet me, others just give me the inquisitive once-over and continue munching. How they all got here is a question for co-owner Jeff Flood. Over a camelcino in the on-site cafe (one hump or two?), Jeff tells me his story. He and business partner Paul Martin are scientists from different disciplines whose combined knowledge made this venture possible and viable, even through the tough times of the drought

camel scenic rim qld
A friendly face at Summer Land.

Summer Land is the largest commercial camel farm outside of the Middle East, with more than 550 animals, many having been ‘rescued’ from Central Australia and brought here to breed and produce nutritious, organic dairy products: milk, yoghurt, cheese – including a wonderful Persian feta – and a highly awarded skincare range. “We rear our camels with infinite care and treat them with great respect," says Jeff. For them, it’s living the good life… in Camelot.

 

If it’s sheep cheese you prefer (it’s a rarity in Australia because low yields mean high production costs), your next stop should be Towri Sheep Cheesery in Allenview. Here Carolyn and Dallas Davidson will proudly introduce you to their 350 specially bred sheep and the award-winning hand-crafted cheeses, including Ewe Blue, Black Sheep and Eweghurt, that they produce with their milk.

towri sheep chessery allenview qld
One of the Cheesery’s youngest residents.

Accommodating 12 guests in boutique comfort from late July, the Stables here will be available to book out in their entirety for a weekend of milking sheep, making cheese, cuddling lambs and collecting fresh eggs from the property’s chooks.

Wine or Beer? Or Both?

After all that cheese (including those stashed in your Esky) and invigorating fresh country air, you’ll be in the mood for a few tempting vintages. The Scenic Rim is renowned for its prize-winning wineries where you’ll find a variety of styles, including some excellent fortified wines; the port at Bunjurgen Estate is particularly moreish.

 

Meanwhile, Scenic Rim Brewery at Mt Alford specialises in liquid of an amber hue. Try crafty brews with names like Digga’s Pale Ale and Fat Man Maroon Ale, combined with a homemade deli takeaway lunch that can be enjoyed at a scenic picnic spot nearby.

The Scenic Rim Food Scene

Talented chefs here are passionately embracing the area’s abundance of farm-fresh veggies, meats, relishes, jams and of course, the dairy products. Two of the best-known chefs are Daniel Groneberg and Richard Ousby, both with big-city credentials. Daniel, with over 27 years’ international experience, runs the kitchen at Kooroomba and his love of the “simple aspects of French country-style cooking" is well known. Richard is a recent arrival at The Overflow Estate 1895’s pretty lakefront cafe after a stellar cooking career at Stokehouse Melbourne and Brisbane, raising the bar with menu ideas as fresh as the produce available.

Walking Tracks to try

Food and wine are fine, but the real joy of a Scenic Rim visit is surely the magnificent Green Cauldron countryside, with its dramatic mountain ranges and verdant valleys. From sedate, well-marked tracks, to challenging mountain scrambles, you’ll love walking here.

scenic rim hike
Hiking the Scenic Rim.

Lower Portals Track, Mt Barney National Park (7.4 kilometres/three hours)

 

Mee-Bor-Rum Circuit, Moogerah Peaks National Park , Mt French section (720 metres/15 minutes)

 

Mt Edwards Summit Trail, Moogerah Peaks National Park, Mt Edwards section (six kilometres/3.5 hours)

 

Rainforest Circuit and Mt Cordeaux Track, Main Range National Park , Cunninghams Gap (Rainforest Circuit 1.6 kilometres/30 minutes; Mt Cordeaux Track 6.8 kilometres/2.5 hours)

 

Palm Grove Circuit, Tamborine National Park, Palm Grove section (2.7 kilometres/one hour)

 

Curtis Falls Track, Tamborine National Park, Joalah section (1.1 kilometres/30 minutes)

 

Witches Falls Circuit, Tamborine National Park, Witches Falls section (3.6 kilometres/one hour)

 

Morans Falls, Lamington National Park , Green Mountains section (4.4 kilometres/1.5 hours)

Getting there

The Scenic Rim region is a one-hour drive from Brisbane and the Gold Coast.

Staying there

The Scenic Rim brims with stylish locations to rest your head after a long day of indulging. Spicers Peak Lodge boasts top-class cuisine.

spicers peak lodge scenic rim qld
Spicers Peak Lodge.

O’Reilly’s Rainforest Retreat for great activities and walks.

 

Nightfall Camp for a unique luxury glamping experience.

 

For more information visit visitscenicrim.com.au

 

Discover the other destinations and experiences that made it into our Top 100 Ways to Holiday Here This Year special edition of Australian Traveller.
Phil Hawkes
Phillip Hawkes somehow survived a career in tourism marketing, managing ad agencies and PR firms in many locations including London and New York, then finally 25 years based in Hong Kong. He morphed into a travel writer 15 years ago and has had over 120 articles published, focussing on experiences in Asia/Pacific and Europe.
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What it’s really like to stay on the world’s largest sand island

    Kassia ByrnesBy Kassia Byrnes
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    Exploring the world’s largest sand island starts with the perfect K’gari homebase.

    The morning light is still soft, but it’s already a perfect sunny day. We left our K’gari homebase at Kingfisher Bay Resort  with our guide, Peter Meyer, at 9 am to make the most of our time to explore all that the world’s largest sand island holds. The size of K’gari is hard to grasp until you arrive here. This is no sandbar. Stretching 120 kilometres, unique lakes, mangrove systems, rainforest, 75 Miles of beach, historic shipwrecks, small townships and even one of Queensland’s best bakeries are all hidden within its bounds.

    But first, one of the island’s most iconic sights: the pure silica sand and crystal clear waters of Lake McKenzie.

    Laying eyes on it for the first time, I’m finally able to confirm that the photos don’t lie. The sand is pure white, without the merest hint of yellow. The water fades from a light halo of aqua around the edges to a deeper, royal blue, the deeper it gets (not that it’s particularly deep, six metres at most). The surface remains surprisingly undisturbed, like a mirror.

    Arriving with our guide before 10 am means that no one else is around when we get here. Which means we have the pleasure of breaking the smooth surface with our own ripples as we enter. As a self-confessed wimp with chilly water temperatures, my fears are quickly assuaged. Even in the morning, the water stays around 23 degrees – perfect for lazing about all day. But we have more sights to see.

    Exploring K’gari

    ariel of in lake mckenzie on k'gari fraser island
    Relax in the warm waters of Lake McKenzie. (Image: Ayeisha Sheldon)

    This was the Personalised 4WD tour offered by Kingfisher Bay Resort, and my absolute top pick of experiences. Over the course of the day, we had the freedom to create our own bespoke itinerary (plus a provided picnic lunch along the way), with an expert guide who had plenty of stories and local expertise to give context to what we were looking at. From the history of the SS Maheno shipwreck, which survived the First World War only to be washed ashore by a cyclone in 1935, to a detailed description of how an island made of sand could sustain such diverse flora.

    If it’s your first time to K’gari, the Beauty Spots Tour is another great option. Departing daily from Kingfisher Bay Resort (you’ll start to notice a trend, as many of the tours do start and end here), an air-conditioned, 4WD bus takes guests to the island’s most iconic locations, including the best places to swim, like Lake McKenzie and Eli Creek. The latter offers a gentle current, perfect for riding with a blow-up tyre out towards the ocean.

    The next day, for a look at a completely different side of K’gari, I joined one of Kingfisher Bay Resort’s Immersive Ranger-guided tours to kayak through the mangroves of Dundonga Creek. This long, snake-like stretch of creek winds its way inland from the ocean outlet we entered by, at times too narrow for three kayaks to be side-by-side. Small insects buzz from leaf to leaf, while birds call overhead. Occasional bubbles indicate we’ve passed some fish that call this place home.

    kayak tour through the mangroves at k'gari island
    Learn about the island’s mangroves from your Ranger. (Image: Reuben Nutt/ TEQ)

    If kayaking isn’t for you – or if, like me, you simply want more – other ranger-led experiences include nature walks and a dedicated Junior Eco Ranger Program for kids ages five to 12 (these run every weekend, and daily over the peak December holidays). Just ask for a timetable of upcoming tours when you check in.

    While during whale season, Hervey Bay Whale Watch & Charters operates tours from the hotel’s jetty to get up close to the famous Humpback Highway of Hervey Bay, from 7 November to 31 May, attention turns to the Aqua Oasis Cruise . Departing from the resort every Tuesday, Thursday, Saturday and Sunday for resort guests, adventure along the island’s remote western coast, pointing out wildlife like dolphins, turtles, flying fish and eagles along the way.

    The cruise drops anchor so guests can jump into the water using the boat’s equipment – from SUP boards to inflatable slides and jumping platforms. Then refuel with a provided lunch, of course.

    Unwind at sunset

    two people drinking cocktails at sunset bar, kingfisher bay resort
    Unwind at the Sunset Bar. (Image: Sean Scott)

    As much as days on K’gari can be filled with adventure, to me, the afternoons and evenings there are for unwinding. Sunsets on K’gari are absolutely unbelievable, with Kingfisher Bay on the west side being the best spot to catch the colours.

    The Sunset Bar , located at the start of the resort’s jetty and overlooking the beach, is the ultimate location for sundowners. Let chill beats wash over you as you sip on cool wines, beers and cocktails in a relaxed, friendly vibe. Personally, a cheese board was also absolutely called for. As the sun sinks, the sand, sea and horizon turn a vibrant shade of orange, with the jetty casting a dramatic shadow across the water.

    When the show is over, head back to the hotel for dinner at the Asian-fusion Dune restaurant, or the pub-style Sand + Wood. But if your appetite is still whetted for more lights and colours, the evening isn’t over yet.

    Settle into the Illumina stage for Return to Sky, an immersive light and sound show leading viewers on a captivating journey through K’gari’s stories and landscapes.

    Indulge and disconnect

    woman setting up massage room at kingfisher bay resort Island Day Spa
    Find bliss at Island Day Spa. (Image: Jessica Miocevich)

    Of course, there is a type of traveller who knows that balance is important, day or night. While Kingfisher Bay Resort offers more than one pool for guests to spend all day lounging by (they’ll even serve you food and drinks while you do it), you’ll find me at the Island Day Spa.

    The masseuses could match the magic hands of any big city spa, and I felt the warm welcome as I walked into the light, breezy reception. Choose from a range of botanical facials, beauty treatments and soothing massages using traditional techniques (obviously, I couldn’t go past a relaxing massage). All products used contain organic, native botanical ingredients with nutrient-rich plant extracts to soothe skin and mind. To really indulge, try out one of the packages, couples treatment or even a pre-wedding day offering.

    Getting there

    kingfisher bay resort 4wd tour driving passed ss maheno on k'gari island
    The world of K’gari awaits. (Image: Jessica Miocevich)

    Getting to K’gari is shockingly easy. Find daily flights into Hervey Bay from Brisbane, Melbourne and Sydney. Kingfisher Bay Resort offers a shuttle bus between the airport, their headquarters in Hervey Bay and the ferry to take you to K’gari.