qualia reviewed - is it still the world's best resort?

In 2012 an elegant simplicity and a fine attention to detail turned a corner of Hamilton Island into the best resort in the world. Is that still the case? We find out.

The best resort in the world? Here in Australia? No, you must be joking.

qualia Hamilton Island from above — Bird’s eye view, qualia (photo: Elise Hassey).

Such was the cry that went up in 2012, when the honour of all honours was bestowed on a humble island resort most commonly popularised as the 1980s home of the high-rise holiday, no less.

Yes, qualia , the gated luxury resort on the northern tip of Hamilton Island was awarded best luxury resort in the world by the readers of Conde Naste Traveller magazine. (ED: Australiantraveller.com co-founder Quentin Long likes to think he was ahead of the world, read his honeymoon in qualia experience)

But qualia’s secret ingredient is really not that mysterious but a fairly simple proposition: it’s lovely.

Snorkelling qualia Hamilton Island — Snorkelling is a must at Hamilton Island (photo: Elise Hassey).

But such simplicity is complex, of course; and much goes on behind the scenes here in order to achieve it. Here are some of the most surprising details from behind the scenes.

A grand entrance

Arriving at qualia is a little like rolling the opening credits of a Spielberg production: large wooden gates loom below even larger stone walls, a silently grandiose imposition on the tangle of ferns and palms that streak the sky. A bespoke carved slab of wood – made from local Sugarloaf mountain timber – confirms the resort’s presence, though the Relais & Chateaux placard is a lone hint at the pleasures beyond.

Long Pavillion qualia, Hamilton Island, Queensland. — The incredible Whitsunday vistas from the main building at qualia, the Long House.

It is a dramatic entrance, but the opening doors reveal a place of surprisingly earthy, simple pleasures. Paths wind around tropical sculptured gardens filled with small surprises: fat, juicy cluster figs begging to be plucked off native trees, harmless green tree snakes curl up on warm rocks, fluttering dragonflies and butterflies zoom through whispering leaves.

Refreshingly secluded: qualia, Hamilton Island.

The pavilions themselves are set in a wild tangle of eucalypts and the fingers of wispy palms; that joyous Whitsundays water twinkling between fronds from nearly all angles.

The overall impression is one without artifice, but careful landscaping is maintained at all times, and to a level of thoughtfulness that is quite extraordinary: the six or so kilometres of hedging lining the pathways, for example, are all hand-hedged, so that guests are never disturbed by garden machinery.

plunge pool qualia — Enjoy the Whitsunday vistas from your own plunge pool in a Windward pavilion.

A similarly intricate drip system – relating back to the Oatleys’ wine production days, and said to be personally monitored by family patriarch Robert Oatley – crisscrosses its way over the island, feeding hundreds of thousands of litres of treated, effluent water into the soil, itself a considered product of composting (which takes place on the mainland, in qualia’s 10 enormous worm farms).

Perhaps most illuminating, however, is the war being waged on weary grounds keepers by the island’s many wallabies. “We’ve tried everything to stop them from eating the spider lilies," says garden supervisor Andrew Collett, referring to the pretty natives that line pathways. “Even garlic." But this is their home, too, so grounds keepers do what they can to coexist in peace. When the marauding marsupials chewed away the grass beside the spa, it was simply replaced (for a cool $12,000). The garden must go on.

Luxe library

The coolest place in the Whitsundays (both literally and figuratively)? The library at qualia. With conservative red and navy cushioning, high timber ceilings and doors that whoosh when you open them – as if vacuum-sealed from reality – the library is, by all appearances, a space dedicated to serious readers.

Interior designers Freedman furnished qualia with fabrics and patterns inspired by nature (photo: Elise Hassey).

Until you begin perusing the books, that is. Beautifully presented and thoughtfully curated, with a selection that ranges from the esoteric and artful to a glossy tome on Valentino so enormous it requires its own table, there is nonetheless a relaxed quirk of Australian humour that streaks the shelves, something that perhaps best summarises the atmosphere at qualia.

Keep an eye out for the amusingly solid hardcover titled Luxury For Dogs. It’s the most well-thumbed book at the resort, which we’d suggest makes for a high endorsement of the guests who patronise the resort.

Outrageous proposals

People often burst into tears upon arriving at the main gates, says resort general manager Matthew Taverner, and you can understand why if only for the initial views, which are quite superb. But tears are more often engineered by staff, he says, who are well-trained in putting together special moments, discreet entrances and exits for guests of particular fame, and “outrageous proposals".

Sunset champagne pebble beach qualia — Sunset and champagne for two at qualia’s Pebble Beach? (photo: Elise Hassey).

He shares a personal favourite from the latter category: “The gentleman of the couple had organised a mock check-in down the road at the Reef View Hotel, and after they arrived, put their bags down in the room and so on, he suggested that they go for a little drive around the island.

qualia pool Hamilton Island — Languid pool time at qualia (photo: Elise Hassey).

“They showed up at qualia and they just happened to go for a tour of Pavilion 23 [a ‘Windward’ pavilion, facing outward from the island with a plunge pool, and a favourite of guests for its west-facing aspect] where the staff had arranged for her favourite tune to be playing on the iPod, when she walked in. He got down on one knee and, of course, that’s where they were actually staying."

qualia speedboat — The speedboat for guest use at qualia has been used for countless proposals

Indeed the staff are an exceptional part of the qualia experience, even if you’re not planning a proposal of marriage. Our suggestion: take a sailing lesson with Jessica Hansen, a sweet-natured young woman who happens to not only be rather good at encouraging first-timers to aptly sail the resort’s small yachts, but is also a world-champion in 18-foot and 29-foot skiff racing.

Or take a garden tour with one of the garden supervisors such as the aforementioned Andrew Collett, who’ll not only point out and pick edible fruits, and share the indigenous history and uses of certain plants, but will let you in on his favourite secret lookout spots. Or – perhaps our favourite – ask the staff to organise a seaplane experience for you. You really won’t appreciate the context of your World Heritage-listed environment until you’ve seen it from above, as these pictures attest.

Getting away from it all

What does it take to be the best spa in Australia? “More than massages," says spa manager Leah Hesse with a laugh. Of the 30 to 40 treatments performed here each day, most are package experiences lasting two to three hours, she says. There are a staggering range of complex- and exquisite-sounding treatments, including the particularly unique hot stone massage.

spa qualia — Spa qualia – book early for treatments otherwise you may miss out

This is carried out with warm stones called Bularri Yarrul, explains Hesse, which are taken from a riverbed in central Australia “by an indigenous man who picks them up and determines whether they’re ‘working stones’ or not by their feel".

It’s completed with the gift of a hand-painted stone, the proceeds of which return to the Aboriginal art community from whence it came.

There’s also another tip that guests aren’t necessarily aware of when it comes to all things spa – if you need somewhere to get away from getting away from it all, you can come here, even if you don’t have a booking, and enjoy a Vichy shower, then curl up in the relaxation area afterwards with an on-site, chef-made spa tea. All together now: ahhhh…

Suite perfection

For all the natural wonders and simple pleasures on offer here, there is one aspect of the resort most often lauded: the Windward Pavilions. With their magnificently pretty plunge pools and that joyous Whitsundays water as a backdrop, twinkling between fronds from nearly all angles, some might anticipate gold-plated taps and intricately folded towels, but they are quite the opposite: the details here are altogether more intuitive.

Bedroom qualia — A bedroom facing out to sea with the bathroom in the background at qualia.

Stone, wood and an enormous wall of glass allow for nature’s masterpiece to take pride of place, with retractable glass ‘windows’ in some pavilions that slide down entirely under floor, allowing entrance on to a balcony overlooking the water.

balcony qualia Hamilton Island — The deck chair with a view at a Windward pavilion, Hamilton Island.

The contents of the mini bar – organic, artisan, local, Australian – were finalised over a roundtable of 10 people, and involved consideration of 70 products. Meanwhile, pools are permanently heated to 28°C – approximately 2.5 degrees warmer than Olympic swimming pools are during competitions, explains Taverner, “and a pleasant temperature yearround".

View qualia windward pavilion — The view to Whitsunday island from a windward pavilion at qualia, Hamilton Island. Any more ocean view and you would be wet.

And, quite amazingly, every visitor is guaranteed that new feeling, every time they visit. Because each and every week, one pavilion is taken out of action for maintenance and completely stripped.

qualia Windward pavilion bath — The sumptuous free standiung bathtubs with a view of a Windward pavilion, qualia.

Floorboards are refinished, reprinted and revarnished, walls are repainted, air conditioners are retuned; and by the time every pavilion in the property has been properly finished, approximately five months later, it’s time to commence the renewal process all over again.

Living room qualia Windward pavilion — The living space and private plunge pool at a Windward pavilion at qualia

If luxury is the absence of problems, perhaps qualia is the epitome of luxury.

Get to qualia

Qantas, Jetstar and Virgin Australia all fly direct to Hamilton Island’s Great Barrier Reef Airport. Accommodation includes transfers to and from the airport. If you’re coming from the Whitsunday Coast Airport in Proserpine, book a transfer to Abel Point Marina in Airlie Beach where it’s a 30-minute boat ride to the island.

Stay at qualia

A Leeward Pavilion suite at qualia is from $1350 a night with breakfast. The Windward Pavilion suites start at $2000 including breakfast. The Beach House is from $4800 a night with breakfast.

More qualia

Check out qualia, everything you need to know and australiantraveller.com’s co-founder’s honeymoon experience at qualia

Exploring the world’s largest sand island starts with the perfect K’gari homebase.

The morning light is still soft, but it’s already a perfect sunny day. We left our K’gari homebase at Kingfisher Bay Resort with our guide, Peter Meyer, at 9 am to make the most of our time to explore all that the world’s largest sand island holds. The size of K’gari is hard to grasp until you arrive here. This is no sandbar. Stretching 120 kilometres, unique lakes, mangrove systems, rainforest, 75 Miles of beach, historic shipwrecks, small townships and even one of Queensland’s best bakeries are all hidden within its bounds.

But first, one of the island’s most iconic sights: the pure silica sand and crystal clear waters of Lake McKenzie.

Laying eyes on it for the first time, I’m finally able to confirm that the photos don’t lie. The sand is pure white, without the merest hint of yellow. The water fades from a light halo of aqua around the edges to a deeper, royal blue, the deeper it gets (not that it’s particularly deep, six metres at most). The surface remains surprisingly undisturbed, like a mirror.

Arriving with our guide before 10 am means that no one else is around when we get here. Which means we have the pleasure of breaking the smooth surface with our own ripples as we enter. As a self-confessed wimp with chilly water temperatures, my fears are quickly assuaged. Even in the morning, the water stays around 23 degrees – perfect for lazing about all day. But we have more sights to see.

Exploring K’gari

ariel of in lake mckenzie on k'gari fraser island — Relax in the warm waters of Lake McKenzie. (Image: Ayeisha Sheldon)

This was the Personalised 4WD tour offered by Kingfisher Bay Resort, and my absolute top pick of experiences. Over the course of the day, we had the freedom to create our own bespoke itinerary (plus a provided picnic lunch along the way), with an expert guide who had plenty of stories and local expertise to give context to what we were looking at. From the history of the SS Maheno shipwreck, which survived the First World War only to be washed ashore by a cyclone in 1935, to a detailed description of how an island made of sand could sustain such diverse flora.

If it’s your first time to K’gari, the Beauty Spots Tour is another great option. Departing daily from Kingfisher Bay Resort (you’ll start to notice a trend, as many of the tours do start and end here), an air-conditioned, 4WD bus takes guests to the island’s most iconic locations, including the best places to swim, like Lake McKenzie and Eli Creek. The latter offers a gentle current, perfect for riding with a blow-up tyre out towards the ocean.

The next day, for a look at a completely different side of K’gari, I joined one of Kingfisher Bay Resort’s Immersive Ranger-guided tours to kayak through the mangroves of Dundonga Creek. This long, snake-like stretch of creek winds its way inland from the ocean outlet we entered by, at times too narrow for three kayaks to be side-by-side. Small insects buzz from leaf to leaf, while birds call overhead. Occasional bubbles indicate we’ve passed some fish that call this place home.

kayak tour through the mangroves at k'gari island — Learn about the island’s mangroves from your Ranger. (Image: Reuben Nutt/ TEQ)

If kayaking isn’t for you – or if, like me, you simply want more – other ranger-led experiences include nature walks and a dedicated Junior Eco Ranger Program for kids ages five to 12 (these run every weekend, and daily over the peak December holidays). Just ask for a timetable of upcoming tours when you check in.

While during whale season, Hervey Bay Whale Watch & Charters operates tours from the hotel’s jetty to get up close to the famous Humpback Highway of Hervey Bay, from 7 November to 31 May, attention turns to the Aqua Oasis Cruise . Departing from the resort every Tuesday, Thursday, Saturday and Sunday for resort guests, adventure along the island’s remote western coast, pointing out wildlife like dolphins, turtles, flying fish and eagles along the way.

The cruise drops anchor so guests can jump into the water using the boat’s equipment – from SUP boards to inflatable slides and jumping platforms. Then refuel with a provided lunch, of course.

Unwind at sunset

two people drinking cocktails at sunset bar, kingfisher bay resort — Unwind at the Sunset Bar. (Image: Sean Scott)

As much as days on K’gari can be filled with adventure, to me, the afternoons and evenings there are for unwinding. Sunsets on K’gari are absolutely unbelievable, with Kingfisher Bay on the west side being the best spot to catch the colours.

The Sunset Bar , located at the start of the resort’s jetty and overlooking the beach, is the ultimate location for sundowners. Let chill beats wash over you as you sip on cool wines, beers and cocktails in a relaxed, friendly vibe. Personally, a cheese board was also absolutely called for. As the sun sinks, the sand, sea and horizon turn a vibrant shade of orange, with the jetty casting a dramatic shadow across the water.

When the show is over, head back to the hotel for dinner at the Asian-fusion Dune restaurant, or the pub-style Sand + Wood. But if your appetite is still whetted for more lights and colours, the evening isn’t over yet.

Settle into the Illumina stage for Return to Sky, an immersive light and sound show leading viewers on a captivating journey through K’gari’s stories and landscapes.

Indulge and disconnect

woman setting up massage room at kingfisher bay resort Island Day Spa — Find bliss at Island Day Spa. (Image: Jessica Miocevich)

Of course, there is a type of traveller who knows that balance is important, day or night. While Kingfisher Bay Resort offers more than one pool for guests to spend all day lounging by (they’ll even serve you food and drinks while you do it), you’ll find me at the Island Day Spa.

The masseuses could match the magic hands of any big city spa, and I felt the warm welcome as I walked into the light, breezy reception. Choose from a range of botanical facials, beauty treatments and soothing massages using traditional techniques (obviously, I couldn’t go past a relaxing massage). All products used contain organic, native botanical ingredients with nutrient-rich plant extracts to soothe skin and mind. To really indulge, try out one of the packages, couples treatment or even a pre-wedding day offering.

Getting there

kingfisher bay resort 4wd tour driving passed ss maheno on k'gari island — The world of K’gari awaits. (Image: Jessica Miocevich)

Getting to K’gari is shockingly easy. Find daily flights into Hervey Bay from Brisbane, Melbourne and Sydney. Kingfisher Bay Resort offers a shuttle bus between the airport, their headquarters in Hervey Bay and the ferry to take you to K’gari.

Qualia reviewed: still the world’s best luxury resort?