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The island where koalas crash your dinner reservation

A family was joined by an unexpected dinner guest when dining at Peppers Blue on Blue Resort on Magnetic Island.

I’m halfway through my cured salmon entrée at Peppers Blue on Blue Resort when I hear a commotion. Looking up, I’m surprised to see a small grey koala crawling out of the restaurant onto the verandah where my son and I are having dinner, soaking up the sunset over the marina and the bushy escarpment beyond.

The wayward marsupial ambles down the nearby ramp, before returning to glance at its reflection in the stackable glass doors. A fellow diner phones a wildlife rescue service, but by the time they arrive, the koala is long gone.

A family was joined by an unexpected dinner guest when dining at Peppers Blue on Blue Resort on Magnetic Island.

“Up for Unexpected" is the tagline of local tourism body Townsville Enterprise, and it couldn’t be more fitting for our visit.

But while the encounter caught me off guard, it didn’t completely shock me. Magnetic Island, off the coast of Townsville in North Queensland, has one of the largest concentrations of koalas in Australia .

On the way back to our room that night, I tell Deb at the front desk about our unusual dinner companion. “We had one in reception last week," she replies.

The prime season for koala spotting

Peppers Blue on Blue Resort on Magnetic Island
It’s not the first time a koala has visited Peppers Blue on Blue Resort. (Image: Descent Productions/ Tourism and Events Queensland)

We also happened to be there during dispersal season, which runs from August to March, when young koalas leave their mothers to establish new territories, and older koalas are also active trying to find mates. Unfortunately, it’s also known as “trauma season", when koalas are more vulnerable to risks such as car strikes and dog attacks as they move through unfamiliar areas.

My son and I are unabashed devotees of the hit Netflix TV series Izzy’s Koala World, which is filmed on Magnetic Island, so we’re no strangers to the challenges these furry locals face. The heartwarming doco follows the adventures of a young girl called Izzy Bee as she helps her mum – a veterinarian at Magnetic Island Koala Hospital – rescue, rehabilitate and release injured and orphaned koalas.

Where to see koalas on Magnetic Island

The Koala Park on Magnetic Island
For a guaranteed sighting, visit The Koala Park on Magnetic Island. (Image: The Edit Suite/ Tourism and Events Queensland)

The Aussie icons can often be seen snoozing in treetops across the island, but the two-kilometre Forts Walk is widely regarded as the prime place to catch one. For a sure-thing encounter, make tracks to Magnetic Island Koala Park , which offers small-group tours led by expert rangers. During our two-hour wander, we’re treated to close-ups of overweight wombats, shy echidnas and even a freshwater crocodile.

Discover beautiful coves with Aquascene Magnetic Island
Discover beautiful coves with Aquascene Magnetic Island. (Image: Tourism and Events Queensland/ Jesse Lindemann)

The wildlife magic spills out onto the water as well. While cruising between some of the island’s 23 magical bays with Aquascene Magnetic Island , our guide Adam Hinks — who was crowned Australia’s Top Tour Guide in the 2024 Australia’s Top Tourism Towns Awards — notices a whale breaching on the horizon. We motor over and are treated to a spectacular display.

During a kayak tour at the turtle-filled Horseshoe Bay the next day, our guide Craig Crichton mentions he doesn’t have a TV at home. Instead, his kids are up at dawn, hiking the island’s bush trails in search of echidnas.

More than just wildlife

Aerial view of Magnetic Island
Magnetic Island is off the coast of Townsville. (Image: Mark Fitz/ Tourism and Events Queensland)

With its abundance of wildlife, it’s little wonder that Maggie — as locals affectionately call it — is a drawcard for nature lovers. But that’s really just the beginning. The island also basks in more than 300 days of sunshine a year and carries hints of South-East Asia on its northern side, with beachside massages and open-sided restaurants where you can view blazing orange sunsets.

There’s a laidback vibe here, and quirks around every corner, from toad racing at the Arcadia Village Hotel to the colourful Daihatsu Mira convertible hire cars that cruise its streets. On Maggie, the unexpected is definitely part of the adventure.

Angela Saurine
Angela Saurine is a freelance writer based on Bundjalung Country in the village of Bangalow, in the Byron Bay hinterland. She began her career as a copykid at The Daily Telegraph in Sydney before setting off to explore the world – spending a few months as a ski bum in Whistler and living the expat life in London. On returning home, Angela climbed the ranks to land her dream role as national travel reporter at News Corp Australia. She’s since journeyed everywhere from Arnhem Land to Antarctica, and from Christmas Island to Easter Island, with a particular passion for Indigenous tourism, islands, snow, food and expedition cruising. Swimming with whale sharks at Ningaloo is at the top of her Aussie bucket list.
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What it’s really like to stay on the world’s largest sand island

Exploring the world’s largest sand island starts with the perfect K’gari homebase.

The morning light is still soft, but it’s already a perfect sunny day. We left our K’gari homebase at Kingfisher Bay Resort  with our guide, Peter Meyer, at 9 am to make the most of our time to explore all that the world’s largest sand island holds. The size of K’gari is hard to grasp until you arrive here. This is no sandbar. Stretching 120 kilometres, unique lakes, mangrove systems, rainforest, 75 Miles of beach, historic shipwrecks, small townships and even one of Queensland’s best bakeries are all hidden within its bounds.

But first, one of the island’s most iconic sights: the pure silica sand and crystal clear waters of Lake McKenzie.

Laying eyes on it for the first time, I’m finally able to confirm that the photos don’t lie. The sand is pure white, without the merest hint of yellow. The water fades from a light halo of aqua around the edges to a deeper, royal blue, the deeper it gets (not that it’s particularly deep, six metres at most). The surface remains surprisingly undisturbed, like a mirror.

Arriving with our guide before 10 am means that no one else is around when we get here. Which means we have the pleasure of breaking the smooth surface with our own ripples as we enter. As a self-confessed wimp with chilly water temperatures, my fears are quickly assuaged. Even in the morning, the water stays around 23 degrees – perfect for lazing about all day. But we have more sights to see.

Exploring K’gari

ariel of in lake mckenzie on k'gari fraser island
Relax in the warm waters of Lake McKenzie. (Image: Ayeisha Sheldon)

This was the Personalised 4WD tour offered by Kingfisher Bay Resort, and my absolute top pick of experiences. Over the course of the day, we had the freedom to create our own bespoke itinerary (plus a provided picnic lunch along the way), with an expert guide who had plenty of stories and local expertise to give context to what we were looking at. From the history of the SS Maheno shipwreck, which survived the First World War only to be washed ashore by a cyclone in 1935, to a detailed description of how an island made of sand could sustain such diverse flora.

If it’s your first time to K’gari, the Beauty Spots Tour is another great option. Departing daily from Kingfisher Bay Resort (you’ll start to notice a trend, as many of the tours do start and end here), an air-conditioned, 4WD bus takes guests to the island’s most iconic locations, including the best places to swim, like Lake McKenzie and Eli Creek. The latter offers a gentle current, perfect for riding with a blow-up tyre out towards the ocean.

The next day, for a look at a completely different side of K’gari, I joined one of Kingfisher Bay Resort’s Immersive Ranger-guided tours to kayak through the mangroves of Dundonga Creek. This long, snake-like stretch of creek winds its way inland from the ocean outlet we entered by, at times too narrow for three kayaks to be side-by-side. Small insects buzz from leaf to leaf, while birds call overhead. Occasional bubbles indicate we’ve passed some fish that call this place home.

kayak tour through the mangroves at k'gari island
Learn about the island’s mangroves from your Ranger. (Image: Reuben Nutt/ TEQ)

If kayaking isn’t for you – or if, like me, you simply want more – other ranger-led experiences include nature walks and a dedicated Junior Eco Ranger Program for kids ages five to 12 (these run every weekend, and daily over the peak December holidays). Just ask for a timetable of upcoming tours when you check in.

While during whale season, Hervey Bay Whale Watch & Charters operates tours from the hotel’s jetty to get up close to the famous Humpback Highway of Hervey Bay, from 7 November to 31 May, attention turns to the Aqua Oasis Cruise . Departing from the resort every Tuesday, Thursday, Saturday and Sunday for resort guests, adventure along the island’s remote western coast, pointing out wildlife like dolphins, turtles, flying fish and eagles along the way.

The cruise drops anchor so guests can jump into the water using the boat’s equipment – from SUP boards to inflatable slides and jumping platforms. Then refuel with a provided lunch, of course.

Unwind at sunset

two people drinking cocktails at sunset bar, kingfisher bay resort
Unwind at the Sunset Bar. (Image: Sean Scott)

As much as days on K’gari can be filled with adventure, to me, the afternoons and evenings there are for unwinding. Sunsets on K’gari are absolutely unbelievable, with Kingfisher Bay on the west side being the best spot to catch the colours.

The Sunset Bar , located at the start of the resort’s jetty and overlooking the beach, is the ultimate location for sundowners. Let chill beats wash over you as you sip on cool wines, beers and cocktails in a relaxed, friendly vibe. Personally, a cheese board was also absolutely called for. As the sun sinks, the sand, sea and horizon turn a vibrant shade of orange, with the jetty casting a dramatic shadow across the water.

When the show is over, head back to the hotel for dinner at the Asian-fusion Dune restaurant, or the pub-style Sand + Wood. But if your appetite is still whetted for more lights and colours, the evening isn’t over yet.

Settle into the Illumina stage for Return to Sky, an immersive light and sound show leading viewers on a captivating journey through K’gari’s stories and landscapes.

Indulge and disconnect

woman setting up massage room at kingfisher bay resort Island Day Spa
Find bliss at Island Day Spa. (Image: Jessica Miocevich)

Of course, there is a type of traveller who knows that balance is important, day or night. While Kingfisher Bay Resort offers more than one pool for guests to spend all day lounging by (they’ll even serve you food and drinks while you do it), you’ll find me at the Island Day Spa.

The masseuses could match the magic hands of any big city spa, and I felt the warm welcome as I walked into the light, breezy reception. Choose from a range of botanical facials, beauty treatments and soothing massages using traditional techniques (obviously, I couldn’t go past a relaxing massage). All products used contain organic, native botanical ingredients with nutrient-rich plant extracts to soothe skin and mind. To really indulge, try out one of the packages, couples treatment or even a pre-wedding day offering.

Getting there

kingfisher bay resort 4wd tour driving passed ss maheno on k'gari island
The world of K’gari awaits. (Image: Jessica Miocevich)

Getting to K’gari is shockingly easy. Find daily flights into Hervey Bay from Brisbane, Melbourne and Sydney. Kingfisher Bay Resort offers a shuttle bus between the airport, their headquarters in Hervey Bay and the ferry to take you to K’gari.