Hotel Review: Cape York Peninsula Lodge

There is an abundance of enriching life experiences to be had at the northernmost point of Australia, starting with the community-owned Cape York Peninsula Lodge – part of an enterprise that proves travel can be used as a force for good.

With over 1000 kilometres between you and the closest town, Cape York Peninsula Lodge is as remote as it gets: wild brumbies graze on median strips, shy dugongs pop out at unexpected moments and giant crocs guard river crossings. It’s here, in the Northern Peninsula Area (NPA) on the northwestern coast of the Cape, where you’ll find five townships and two First Nations cultures woven together by time and necessity; the world’s first climate refugees left their saltwater inundated island of Saibai in the Torres Strait roughly eight decades ago. Now it’s the only place in the country where the merging of Australia’s traditional landowners and Torres Strait Islander cultures can be experienced on Country.

Aerial view of crocodile in Cape York — The wild and remote Cape York Peninsula. (Image: Tourism Tropical North Queensland)

There are three Aboriginal townships known as Injinoo, Umagico and New Mapoon, and two Torres Strait Islander townships named Seisia and Bamaga. The last is where I’ll be staying for the next three nights after forgoing the two-week drive and opting for the “cheat’s way" to Bamaga on a two-hour flight from Cairns to explore the final frontier of Tropical North Queensland .

A beach in Pajinka at Cape York — The colours of Cape York. (Image: Katie Carlin)

First Impressions

I’m greeted by local elder Uncle Michael at the airport – his seriousness belies a cheeky sense of humour that slowly emerges over the next few days while touring Pajinka (formerly known as The Tip) under his careful guidance. My travel companions are mostly retirees in their seventies and eighties and we pile onto the 4×4 coach together.

The river facing cabins at Cape York Peninsula Lodge — The river-facing cabins at Cape York Peninsula Lodge offer gorgeous vistas throughout your stay. (Image: Tourism and Events Queensland)

Check-in is a smooth process and I spy some lovely handmade pieces in the reception souvenir shop – I make a mental note to come back for a proper look later. Zandra and Leah, two high school students participating in a six-month traineeship, walk me to my room, pointing out facilities and features as we go. It’s 4.5 stars and award-winning but the lodge’s luxury status is all about home comforts – finding such a haven in the centre of one of the most unforgiving climates in Australia sure feels like luxury.

Rooms

I am staying in one of the six self-contained studios that overlook Mosby Creek. If you would like to self-cater these are the rooms for you. The studio features a small, fully stocked kitchen with a stove, microwave, toaster, kettle, coffee-pod machine (you can pick up pods and groceries in the local IBIS Supermarket in town) and a fridge with freezer.

Inside the Cape York Peninsula Lodge suites — The suites at Cape York Peninsula Lodge offer home comforts in the outback.

There are different bed configurations available, but my studio has a queen-sized bed and a separate single bed which would be perfect for a family of three. There is a television, dining table and a generously sized bathroom with shower and basic toiletries supplied – and most important of all, it has a powerful air conditioner.

The ensuite bathrooms at Cape York Peninsula Logde — The ensuite bathrooms are generously sized.

The deck quickly becomes my favourite place to end the day; the heat starts to lose its edge and the humidity teeters off, frogs erupt into their nightly chorus, and the last glimpses of the rust-coloured creek disappear under a cloak of darkness. It’s the perfect place to sit and unpack the events of the day, with a cheese platter and a glass of vino in hand.

Cheese board at Cape York Peninsula Lodge — Order up a cheeseboard or build your own to enjoy on your deck of an evening.

Food and drink

Another area that Cape York Peninsula Lodge excels in is its onsite dining . With so much to choose from on the menu, I find it hard to drag myself away from the lodge (more on that below), but Bamaga and the surrounding townships all have a few inviting options to try.

Paperbark Restaurant

The lodge’s onsite Paperbark Restaurant runs dinner service from 5pm to 8pm, seven days per week (depending on the season). Chef Craig knows how to put together a knockout a la carte menu with a real fusion of cuisines.

Find Wagyu beef gyoza, char sui duck shanks and mac-and-cheese croquettes on the entrée menu with fettuccini marinara, kangaroo fillet, Wagyu beef burgers and coconut jackfruit stir fry making an appearance on the mains. You’ll want multiple nights here to eat your way through the full four-page menu. I also had some excellent wines at the fully licensed restaurant during my stay – including a Penfolds shiraz. Cocktails are also available.

Paperbark Restaurant is located beside the lodge reception overlooking the pool. (Image: Justin Meneguzzi)

The restaurant itself has a lovely atmosphere and an outside deck that overlooks the pool, for those who don’t mind the humidity. It is also open from 7am to 8.30am for your run-of-the-mill buffet breakfast – head up to the bar to order a coffee rather than using the self-serve jugs of coffee. Paperbark is closed during the day, but you can pre-order lunch the night before to have it delivered to your room or packed to take away for a day of exploring.

Bamaga Tavern

For a pub feed and a game of darts, head to Bamaga Tavern just down the street from the lodge. Expect to find your usual pub fare and a lively atmosphere. It also holds the title of Australia’s most northerly mainland pub.

Bamaga Bakery

Pick up freshly baked bread at the Bamaga Bakery from 7am daily or opt for one of the bakery treats – think good old fashioned cream buns, lamingtons, choc chip cookies and hedgehog slice.

Seisia Kiosk

If you’re in town for a few days, ring ahead and order one or more of the locally caught crayfish from the Seisia Kiosk. They also offer a takeaway menu of roast chicken, burgers, fish and chips, salad, oysters and prawns.

Grocery stores

You can get fresh produce and groceries from the IBIS Supermarket and other supplies from the BP Bamaga Roadhouse and Mini Mart. The neighbouring townships of Seisia and Umagico also have supermarkets – but don’t expect to have the same access to fresh food as you do in the cities and regions; all food arrives by barge to the Cape, so variety is limited.

Facilities

The pool

You’ll find a lovely lodge pool right beside the onsite restaurant, it’s the perfect place to cool off at the end of the day. While the turquoise waters at the surrounding beaches look inviting, they are also inhabited by crocodiles, marine stingers, and deadly jellyfish, so swimming is not advised.

Pool at Cape York Peninsula Lodge — Take a dip in the hotel pool to beat the humidity.

Laundry facilities

Long hot days spent exploring the region means plenty of dirty washing and the lodge has a communal laundry room set up for guest services.

Internet access

Expect slow internet speeds and weak or no phone signal – especially if you’re not with Telstra. I didn’t have more than two bars of phone reception during my stay, and I couldn’t connect to the hotel wi-fi from my room. If you want to continue bingeing your favourite show of an evening, I recommend downloading them in advance. But the lack of connection is the perfect excuse to disconnect from the outside world. Plan to be unreachable and embrace the slower pace of life.

Tours and experiences

Cape York Peninsula Lodge offers two Indigenous-hosted return day trips for guests (or they offer vehicle hire if you prefer to explore independently) to explore Pajinka and Fruit Bat Falls.

Cape York Peninsula Lodge Indigenous-led tours — Cape York Peninsula Lodge runs two Indigenous-led tours. (Image: Katie Carlin)

Indigenous-led day trip to Pajinka

Adventurous travellers have been following the siren call to Australia’s jagged tip for generations and this cultural tour of Pajinka is easily the highlight of my time in Cape York.

Somerset Beach Pajinka — Enjoy a picnic lunch packed by the lodge at Somerset Beach on your way to Pajinka. (Image: Katie Carlin)

The 45-minute drive through rugged rainforest is punctuated with stops at historical sites that include ruins, graves, WWII wreckages and the remains of Pajinka Resort – and a steady stream of stories from our Indigenous tour guides, Uncle Tommy and Uncle Michael.

WWII wreckages at Cape York Pajinka — Find remnants of WWII wreckages during the tour to Pajinka.

There are three routes that lead to the very tip of Australia, and all of them require varying degrees of ability to navigate. The first is a steep and slippery climb over a rock face – not such a great idea for my group of older travellers, even if Uncle Tommy fashioned them walking sticks from branches on the drive here.

Walking to Pajinka, Australia's tip. — Pajinka at low tide is the best route to the tip of Australia. (Image: Katie Carlin)

The second is walking the high side of the mangroves, and the third is walking along the beach at low tide. Our group take to the waterlogged sand past mangroves to the rocky outcrop we clamber over together.

Cape York Peninsula Lodge day trip to Pajinka — It will take about 20 minutes to get to the northernmost point of Australia. (Image: Katie Carlin)

It’s roughly 20 minutes before we reach our destination: a sign that reads, “You are standing at the northernmost point of the Australian continent". It’s a dazzling scene here at the water’s edge: a smattering of green-capped islands, sunlight dances off the aquamarine waters, and I keep my eyes peeled for those elusive dugongs that are known to appear without warning in these parts.

Pajinka - The Tip of Australia at Cape York — This sign indicates you’ve reached the northernmost point of Australia. (Image: Katie Carlin)

Indigenous-led day trip to Fruit Bat Falls

I can guarantee you’ve seen photos of Fruit Bat Falls: lush cascades roll over a wing-shaped rocky ledge into pools of crystal-clear emerald, green water. But the journey to get here is as thrilling as a dip in this remote waterhole.

Fruit Bat Falls in Cape York Peninsula — A day trip to the pristine waterhole of Fruit Bat Falls. (Image: Katie Carlin)

This return day trip tour takes us across the mighty Jardine River onboard a ferry (a barge that pulls cars across via a chain pulley system) and onto the red dirt road that connects to part of the Old Telegraph Track until we reach the bush trail to the falls.

Jardine River Crossing — Crossing the mighty Jardine River. (Image: Katie Carlin)

Jardine River Ferry service — Find toilet facilities and the ferry station on the other side of the Jardine River. (Image: Katie Carlin)

Sit under the falls and let the day tick away. This place is an unspoilt haven. The tour includes a picnic lunch as well as additional stops along the way to Mutee Heads, Umajico and Injinoo.

Fruit Bat Falls couple swimming — Let time tick away as you relax under the falls. (Image: Tourism Tropical North Queensland)

Cultural performance space

On my final night at the lodge, I am treated to a cultural performance by the award-winning Torres Strait Islander dance troupe Naygayiw Gigi . The interactive performance tells the story of how their people came to settle in the NPA with educational elements of history, language and culture woven in to convey the importance of storytelling through dance and the significance of costumes, props and musical instruments. The stage is set up alongside the hotel pool and performed underneath the night sky with strings of fairy lights creating a magical atmosphere.

Naygayiw Gigi at Cape York Peninsula Lodge — Cape York Peninsula Lodge hosts a cultural performance by Naygayiw Gigi. (Image: Katie Carlin)

Back story – why stay here?

Cape York Peninsula Lodge is part of Bamaga Enterprises Limited , a not-for-profit, Indigenous, community-owned company. The profits of all the businesses – including the lodge, Bamaga Tavern and BP Bamaga Roadhouse – are fully reinvested back into the Indigenous community through community development projects, education, healthcare and infrastructure initiatives. Staying here not only gives you a deeper understanding of our First Nations cultures, but it also ensures your dollar goes back into the community; regenerative travel at its best.

Details

Staying there

Accommodation options at Cape York Peninsula Lodge range from standard rooms (from $275 per night), deluxe rooms (from $330 per night), executive cabins (from $370 per night), self-contained studios (from $400 per night) and the suites with separate lounge area ($400 per night).

Playing there

The day trips to Pajinka and Fruit Bat Falls in an air-conditioned 4×4 coach cost $300 per person for each tour. There is a two-passenger minimum, and the tour includes a packed lunch prepared in advance by the chef of Paperbark Restaurant. The cultural performance by Naygayiw Gigi is hosted by the lodge and is dependent on the performers’ tour dates. Contact Cape York Peninsula Lodge to find out more .

People on the rocks at Fruit Bat Falls — Spend the day relaxing at Fruit Bat Falls. (Image: Katie Carlin)

Getting there

Skytrans flies to Bamaga Airport (ABM) from Cairns. Airport transfers are available. The lodge is only a 10-minute drive from the airport. Car hire is also available through the lodge for a fee. Hire costs start at $205 per day for a 2WD to $350 per day for a LandCruiser.

People walking to the northernmost tip of Australia in Cape York — Adventure lovers are drawn to the northernmost tip of Australia in Pajinka. (Image: Tourism Tropical North Queensland)

From the moment you arrive in Moreton Bay, stunning natural vistas, fresh and tasty dining, history and more invite you to stay and play.

Untouched national park, mirror-like lagoons and endless stretches of beaches all make Moreton Bay experiences feel like you’ve stumbled across a secret Queenslanders collectively vowed not to tell. Yet it’s easily accessible. Explore further and discover hinterland farms, ancient rainforest, fresh seafood and more: there’s something on offer for every pace, interest and generation.

Just 20 minutes from Brisbane Airport, it’s hard to believe how underrated this Queensland getaway is. Here’s your ultimate guide to rediscover play with unmissable experiences in Moreton Bay.

1. G’Day Adventure Tours, Bribie Island

G’Day Adventure Tours’ Sea to Table Experience should be your first agenda item in Moreton Bay. Take a 4WD journey through the sandy tracks of Bribie Island’s beaches to the still, glassy waters of the island’s lagoons. Glide over perfect replicas of paperbarks and fluffy blue clouds mirrored in the lagoon waters in your kayak. Listen as native birdsong echoes around you.

Then, it’s on to Fort Bribie. During the Second World War, these concrete bunkers – now slowly being enveloped by the dunes – were the last line of defence for Moreton Bay.

End the day with a sun-dappled beach picnic of locally caught Queensland prawns and famous Moreton Bay bugs. As you head home, watch the dolphins playfully dart in and out of the surf.

2. Morgan’s Seafood at Scarborough

Right on the Scarborough Boat Harbour, you’ll find Morgan’s Seafood . Between the luxury yachts, you’ll also spot trawlers and fishermen delivering their day’s catch right to Morgan’s. The family-owned and operated spot is one of the best places to try the region’s eponymous Moreton Bay bug. Or, sample more of the area’s direct-from-the-boat seafood fresh at their oyster and sushi bar. If you’re lucky, your visit might coincide with a day they’ve caught tuna.

Picture fish caught that day, prepared and then served to you as fresh sashimi as the sun sets over the unique silhouette of the Glasshouse Mountains.

3. Woorim Beach, Bribie Island

On Bribie’s eastern coastline, you’ll find Woorim Beach : aka the closest surf beach to Brisbane. Find a place on the sand by the patrolled area or wander further south to find a quiet spot and while the day away between the shaded dunes, the pages of your book and the peaceful sound of rolling waves.

Ask any local where to grab lunch, and they’ll direct you to Bribie Island Surf Club Bistro . Tuck into a fresh, local seafood platter, just metres from the beach.

4. D’Aguilar National Park

D’Aguilar National Park is a 40,000-hectare slice of greenery that stretches from urban Brisbane right up to Woodford (home of the Woodford Folk Festival). The vast expanse of park is home to ancient rainforests, eucalypt forests and shaded swimming spots hidden within gorges and under waterfalls. The area is significant for the Jinibara and Turrbal people, with ceremonial bora rings and dreaming trails all found within the park.

Carve out some time in your itinerary to explore the park’s many trails. The Maiala day-use area is the perfect starting point for walks for all levels of ability.

5. Arcade Wine Bar

arcade wine bar moreton bay — Sit down to a menu inspired by Italy.

Opposite the Redcliffe Jetty and down a laneway, you’ll find an unassuming wine bar. Venture inside and quickly fall in love with Arcade Wine Bar , one of the region’s most beloved local haunts.

Owners Danilo and Matt have a combined 50 years of sommelier experience, which they have poured into the menu, styling and wine list. More than just a hole-in-the-wall wine bar, Arcade Wine is an enoteca (a wine repository), whose walls are lined with bottles upon bottles of Italian wine varietals from every corner of Italy.

Settle in with a wine and work your way through the menu inspired by Danilo’s native Italy: traditional meatballs, their quick-to-sell-out terrine, or a selection of Italian cheeses, charcuterie and arancini.

6. Wamuran & Loop Rail Trail

Away from the ocean, tucked in the hinterland, is the Wamuran & Loop Rail Trail . Perfect for cyclists or walkers, the trail was built to showcase the history of the Caboolture to Kilcoy rail corridor (last operating in 1964) and makes for the perfect family day out. The trail runs for 10.5km and connects Wamuran and Caboolture via an accessible path.

Pass through former railroad, bridges and shaded bushland as you cut from A to B. Plus, visit in winter for a detour along the way to one of the many pick-your-own strawberry farms.

7. Farm Visits

Beaches, mountains and history make an enticing combination. But Moreton Bay also brings hinterland, family-friendly farms to the table. Trevena Glen is one of the area’s most loved, with bunnies, ponies, sheep, alpacas (and more) available to visit for the kids. For the adults, book a horse-riding session and be treated to a grazing platter as you watch the sun set over the mountains of D’Aguilar National Park.

At White Ridge Farm , find camels, putt-putt, train and tractor rides and all kinds of animals. The entire farm is paved, making it accessible for all.

8. Miss Sprinkles

Miss Sprinkles Gelato moreton bay — Pick your scoop at Miss Sprinkles Gelato.

An ice cream at the beach is one of life’s most perfect pleasures. While in town, stop by Miss Sprinkles for the locals’ pick of homemade gelato on the Scarborough foreshore.

The gelato here is made the authentic Italian way and scooped up just across from the beach. Or, settle in at their kitschy pink wooden tables for traditional gelato in the sunshine. Aside from the homemade gelato, you’ll also find tarts, pies and even doggie gelato.

To start planning your Moreton Bay trip, or for more information, head to visitmoretonbay.com.au.

Australia’s last frontier from Cape York Peninsula Lodge