How to visit Palm Cove during the wet season

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Travelling Queensland’s tropical north during the wet season isn’t a deal-breaker and here’s why.

As soon as you step off the plane onto the tarmac at Cairns airport you will feel yourself relax. There is something about the aquamarine colour of the ocean, the lush green of the mountains and the tropical heat that allows you to instantly unwind.

A 25-minute drive north of Cairns lies Palm Cove, a tranquil coastal town set amid rows of palm trees with idyllic ocean views and a main street lined with cafes, restaurants and bars.

As the gateway to two of Australia’s most coveted destinations – the Great Barrier Reef and the Daintree Rainforest – there are plenty of reasons to base yourself in Palm Cove even in the wet season.

Visiting Palm Cove in the wet season

Queensland is known as the Sunshine State, but if you find yourself travelling to the state’s tropical north during the summer months you’ll find the weather can be, well, tropical.

I am visiting toward the end of the rainy season in February, which suits me perfectly as I plan to spend the next 72 hours relaxing at my resort. If you want to avoid the wet, be sure to travel during the dry season from April to November: the town is sleepier during November to March; the weather is balmy enough to enjoy a swim in the pool; and the sun still makes an appearance in between downpours.

Where to stay

The Alamanda Palm Cove By Lancemore

The Alamanda Palm Cove by Lancemore is as beachfront as it gets in Palm Cove as you only have to walk a few metres to sink your toes into the sand. Just don’t go for a swim, as there is a very real chance you will encounter a crocodile or two lurking in those inviting waters. Opt for one of the resort’s three onsite pools instead, one of which is adults only.

The Alamanda Palm Cove has 69 extra-large one-, two- and three-bedroom apartments, each with a private balcony overlooking the sea or the hotel’s tropical gardens – making it perfect for a romantic escape, a girls’ weekend away or a family holiday. Each apartment comes complete with a kitchen, dishwasher and laundry facilities to make a longer stay easier.

Address: 1 Veivers Road, Palm Cove

Nestle into Palm Cove

Where to eat in Palm Cove

If you base yourself at the Alamanda you’ll be within easy walking distance from the esplanade and spoiled for choice for places to eat and drink. Take your umbrella with you and join the early risers for a stroll along the beach before making your way to one of the many cafes for breakfast and coffee.

Espresso & Co

 Serving up the best coffee I had during my stay, Espresso & Co also has a standout breakfast menu. The crushed avocado with pistachio dukkah is served on freshly toasted Turkish bread and topped with roasted cherry tomatoes and buffalo feta, and you can add a poached egg for good measure. If you’ve got more of a sweet tooth when it comes to breakfast, then choose between their buttermilk or ricotta pancakes with all the trimmings. They are also open for lunch and offer a separate kids menu.

Address: 3/115-113 Williams Esplanade, Palm Cove, Queensland

Chill Cafe Palm Cove  

This cool cafe came highly recommended by locals and it more than lives up to its name. Perch yourself on the stools at the front of the deck for a good dose of morning sun and views of the beach as you take your pick from the menu. I opted for a breakfast classic of bacon and scrambled eggs, which didn’t disappoint.

Dinner is best enjoyed from the back of the deck. Order the Chill Cafe signature fish tacos stuffed with melt-in-your-mouth coral trout, avocado, shredded lettuce, house-made pico de gallo and aioli alongside jambalaya rice and coleslaw. Settle in for a night of cocktails and live music.

Address: 41 Williams Esplanade, Palm Cove

Nu Nu Restaurant

Soak up beachfront views while enjoying modern Australian cuisine made with locally sourced produce at Palm Cove’s award-winning Nu Nu Restaurant . Better yet, indulge in their four- or seven-course tasting menu – both available with matched wines – to really get the most out of your dining experience.

You may be tempted to skip the puffed lemon bread to pace yourself for the rest of the evening – but don’t! The artisanal bread is made fresh twice daily using stoneground flour from Gunnedah. It is all kinds of zesty, crunchy and doughy goodness and is definitely not to be missed.

Address: 1 Veivers Rd, Palm Cove

Modern dessert and beachfront views

What to see and do

Great Barrier Reef

It may be raining but the water is still at a balmy 22 to 29 °C during the wet season, which is perfect for exploring all the world-renowned Great Barrier Reef has to offer. You can snorkel, dive, take a helicopter or seaplane ride over the top or soak it all in at sea level with a cruise. No matter how you want to experience it, there will be a tour to suit your needs, budget and level of experience.

The Marine Park and World Heritage Area is home to roughly 10 per cent of the world’s coral reef system and you’ll find more than 1600 types of fish, 100 jellyfish species, and 133 varieties of sharks and rays. It’s regularly labelled a bucket-list-worthy experience for a reason.

Great Barrier Reef QLD
Australia’s most beautiful natural wonder is visited by over 2 million tourists yearly.

Daintree Rainforest

Pull on some waterproof hiking shoes and embrace the 180-million-year-old Daintree Rainforest in the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Wet Tropics of Queensland, in all its misty, canopy-glistening glory during the wet season.

The Daintree is on the land of the Kuku Yalanji people and is the oldest continuously living rainforest in the world. Inside its 17,000 hectares of lush rainforest, you will find plenty of trails to choose from, waterfalls to see and an abundance of flora and fauna to spot.

Visit the Daintree Discovery Centre for information on self-guided tours or to book from a range of professional group tours including a guided ‘Dreamtime’ walking tour, bird-watching tours and nature walks.

Daintree
Reflecting on the Daintree River – Elise Hassey

Alamanda Palm Cove Spa

Treat yourself to an indulgent experience at the Alamanda Palm Cove Spa. I opted for the 60-minute signature massage, which is designed to relieve muscle tension and increase circulation. You also get to choose your preferred aromatherapy oils and, for an extra hourly fee, book the Private Spa Pavilion to enjoy after your treatment.

The pavilion is located above the spa overlooking the sea with a private infinity plunge pool for use. Food can be preordered from Nu Nu’s spa menu and delivered to the pavilion or you can bring your own food and drink to enjoy.

Read the Ultimate Travel Guide to Tropical North Queensland here for more tips on what to do, see and where to eat and stay.

Katie Carlin
Katie Carlin is Australian Traveller's Head of Content and when she’s not travelling or behind her computer, she’s hosting a dinner party (likely cooking an Alison Roman recipe), at brunch, working on extending her running k’s, or has her nose buried in a book. She joined Australian Traveller in 2018 and is responsible for leading the editorial team across print, digital, social, email and native content. Her job is to make sure we create content that connects readers to incredible experiences in Australia and beyond. In addition to sharing her expertise on travel through industry speaking engagements, Katie appears onToday, A Current Affair and various radio segments. With a BA in Communications majoring in Journalism and a career that has spanned roles at Fairfax Media and Are Media writing for titles such as The Sydney Morning Herald, The Age, and various lifestyle brands, she brings a wealth of experience to her role. Her most impactful trip to date has been swimming with whale sharks on Ningaloo Reef. For her next trip she is longing to experience the romance of train travel – hopefully on The Ghan or Indian Pacific.
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What it’s really like to stay on the world’s largest sand island

Exploring the world’s largest sand island starts with the perfect K’gari homebase.

The morning light is still soft, but it’s already a perfect sunny day. We left our K’gari homebase at Kingfisher Bay Resort  with our guide, Peter Meyer, at 9 am to make the most of our time to explore all that the world’s largest sand island holds. The size of K’gari is hard to grasp until you arrive here. This is no sandbar. Stretching 120 kilometres, unique lakes, mangrove systems, rainforest, 75 Miles of beach, historic shipwrecks, small townships and even one of Queensland’s best bakeries are all hidden within its bounds.

But first, one of the island’s most iconic sights: the pure silica sand and crystal clear waters of Lake McKenzie.

Laying eyes on it for the first time, I’m finally able to confirm that the photos don’t lie. The sand is pure white, without the merest hint of yellow. The water fades from a light halo of aqua around the edges to a deeper, royal blue, the deeper it gets (not that it’s particularly deep, six metres at most). The surface remains surprisingly undisturbed, like a mirror.

Arriving with our guide before 10 am means that no one else is around when we get here. Which means we have the pleasure of breaking the smooth surface with our own ripples as we enter. As a self-confessed wimp with chilly water temperatures, my fears are quickly assuaged. Even in the morning, the water stays around 23 degrees – perfect for lazing about all day. But we have more sights to see.

Exploring K’gari

ariel of in lake mckenzie on k'gari fraser island
Relax in the warm waters of Lake McKenzie. (Image: Ayeisha Sheldon)

This was the Personalised 4WD tour offered by Kingfisher Bay Resort, and my absolute top pick of experiences. Over the course of the day, we had the freedom to create our own bespoke itinerary (plus a provided picnic lunch along the way), with an expert guide who had plenty of stories and local expertise to give context to what we were looking at. From the history of the SS Maheno shipwreck, which survived the First World War only to be washed ashore by a cyclone in 1935, to a detailed description of how an island made of sand could sustain such diverse flora.

If it’s your first time to K’gari, the Beauty Spots Tour is another great option. Departing daily from Kingfisher Bay Resort (you’ll start to notice a trend, as many of the tours do start and end here), an air-conditioned, 4WD bus takes guests to the island’s most iconic locations, including the best places to swim, like Lake McKenzie and Eli Creek. The latter offers a gentle current, perfect for riding with a blow-up tyre out towards the ocean.

The next day, for a look at a completely different side of K’gari, I joined one of Kingfisher Bay Resort’s Immersive Ranger-guided tours to kayak through the mangroves of Dundonga Creek. This long, snake-like stretch of creek winds its way inland from the ocean outlet we entered by, at times too narrow for three kayaks to be side-by-side. Small insects buzz from leaf to leaf, while birds call overhead. Occasional bubbles indicate we’ve passed some fish that call this place home.

kayak tour through the mangroves at k'gari island
Learn about the island’s mangroves from your Ranger. (Image: Reuben Nutt/ TEQ)

If kayaking isn’t for you – or if, like me, you simply want more – other ranger-led experiences include nature walks and a dedicated Junior Eco Ranger Program for kids ages five to 12 (these run every weekend, and daily over the peak December holidays). Just ask for a timetable of upcoming tours when you check in.

While during whale season, Hervey Bay Whale Watch & Charters operates tours from the hotel’s jetty to get up close to the famous Humpback Highway of Hervey Bay, from 7 November to 31 May, attention turns to the Aqua Oasis Cruise . Departing from the resort every Tuesday, Thursday, Saturday and Sunday for resort guests, adventure along the island’s remote western coast, pointing out wildlife like dolphins, turtles, flying fish and eagles along the way.

The cruise drops anchor so guests can jump into the water using the boat’s equipment – from SUP boards to inflatable slides and jumping platforms. Then refuel with a provided lunch, of course.

Unwind at sunset

two people drinking cocktails at sunset bar, kingfisher bay resort
Unwind at the Sunset Bar. (Image: Sean Scott)

As much as days on K’gari can be filled with adventure, to me, the afternoons and evenings there are for unwinding. Sunsets on K’gari are absolutely unbelievable, with Kingfisher Bay on the west side being the best spot to catch the colours.

The Sunset Bar , located at the start of the resort’s jetty and overlooking the beach, is the ultimate location for sundowners. Let chill beats wash over you as you sip on cool wines, beers and cocktails in a relaxed, friendly vibe. Personally, a cheese board was also absolutely called for. As the sun sinks, the sand, sea and horizon turn a vibrant shade of orange, with the jetty casting a dramatic shadow across the water.

When the show is over, head back to the hotel for dinner at the Asian-fusion Dune restaurant, or the pub-style Sand + Wood. But if your appetite is still whetted for more lights and colours, the evening isn’t over yet.

Settle into the Illumina stage for Return to Sky, an immersive light and sound show leading viewers on a captivating journey through K’gari’s stories and landscapes.

Indulge and disconnect

woman setting up massage room at kingfisher bay resort Island Day Spa
Find bliss at Island Day Spa. (Image: Jessica Miocevich)

Of course, there is a type of traveller who knows that balance is important, day or night. While Kingfisher Bay Resort offers more than one pool for guests to spend all day lounging by (they’ll even serve you food and drinks while you do it), you’ll find me at the Island Day Spa.

The masseuses could match the magic hands of any big city spa, and I felt the warm welcome as I walked into the light, breezy reception. Choose from a range of botanical facials, beauty treatments and soothing massages using traditional techniques (obviously, I couldn’t go past a relaxing massage). All products used contain organic, native botanical ingredients with nutrient-rich plant extracts to soothe skin and mind. To really indulge, try out one of the packages, couples treatment or even a pre-wedding day offering.

Getting there

kingfisher bay resort 4wd tour driving passed ss maheno on k'gari island
The world of K’gari awaits. (Image: Jessica Miocevich)

Getting to K’gari is shockingly easy. Find daily flights into Hervey Bay from Brisbane, Melbourne and Sydney. Kingfisher Bay Resort offers a shuttle bus between the airport, their headquarters in Hervey Bay and the ferry to take you to K’gari.