The weather? Tropical. The people? Friendly. The overall vibe is what you’d expect a quintessentially Australian holiday to feel like. We know Townsville isn’t exactly a secret, but it certainly feels like one.
It’s 13 degrees back home in Sydney. Meanwhile, I’m in shorts and a T-shirt. My bare skin enjoying the sunshine. A whisper of tropical breeze stirs the palm trees above, while yachts shimmy through waters so blue they’re almost indistinguishable from the sky. It’s oh so quiet. Where is everyone?
A few weeks earlier, I’d been in Cairns for a family holiday. It was brilliant – equal parts poolside lounging and obligatory reef and rainforest explorations. It was also busy. It’s the middle of the Australian winter, after all, and southerners like us flock to Queensland when it’s cold and dreary back home.
But here I am in Townsville, still in winter, with not a soul obstructing my view of Magnetic Island as I enjoy my morning coffee. Later, I nab a front-row sun lounge at the rooftop infinity pool overlooking the Coral Sea – no hustling required. We don’t make dinner reservations, yet get a lovely table and incredible service. The sun is just as warm, the people just as friendly, the food a delight and the experiences top-notch. Townsville doesn’t seem to be on our collective radar – but perhaps it should be.
Under the radar
Embark on a scenic coastal drive. (Credit: Tourism and Events Queensland)
The Ville Resort Casino features an infinity pool and a swim-up bar for cocktails with views of Magnetic Island. (Credit: Tourism and Events Queensland)
Soak up serenity with uninterrupted views of the Coral Sea. (Credit: Tourism and Events Queensland)
Still defined by its catchy 1980s slogan, ‘Beautiful one day, perfect the next’, the Sunshine State has long been our go-to winter destination. We’ve been lucky to spend time in many of its coastal hotspots: the surfy lifestyle of Burleigh Heads, the chic appeal of Noosa, the tropical vibes on Hamilton Island, and Cairns’ vibrant mix of reef and rainforest. These destinations are foolproof for a great coastal holiday – Queensland’s illuminati, if you will. But they can steal the limelight from other deserving towns.
Townsville was never on my radar until, in 2018, a photo of The Ville Resort Casino’s pool popped up on my feed, complete with a swim-up bar, swaying palms and purple bougainvillea, and compelled me to book a weekend stay. The 1986-built casino had undergone a $43 million rebrand, transforming it into a modern entertainment precinct designed by Woods Bagot. Its opening, alongside Reef HQ in 1987 and the world’s first floating hotel, the Four Seasons Barrier Reef Hotel, in 1988, marked a booming decade for the city. But it was The Ville’s 2018 transformation that proved a game-changer, raising the bar for accommodation and dining.
So when the opportunity to return to Townsville this year came up, I jumped at the chance. The town’s first five-star hotel, The Ardo, had opened in 2023, and I was excited to experience it with my sister – a very different trip from my previous visit with my toddler son. She, on the other hand, had zero expectations. Like many, she’d never thought of Townsville as a holiday option.
Why Townsville deserves more attention
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Stroll along the 2.5-kilometre foreshore of The Strand. (Credit: Tourism and Events Queensland)
Go diving at the shipwreck of SS Yongala. (Credit: Tourism and Events Queensland/Scuba Diver Life)
Pedal along the palm tree-lined beachfront promenade. (Credit: Tourism and Events Queensland)
Having experienced Townsville and Cairns within weeks of each other, I found that Townsville has a slower pace. It’s a big city with a small-town feel but is still packed with fun things to do. Its 2.2-kilometre waterfront precinct, The Strand, is an incredible feature of the city: it boasts a flat walking path, cafes, playgrounds, an epic water play area with slides for little kids, basketball courts, a skatepark, and a stinger-free ocean-filled rockpool. It’s easy to wander along The Strand but we hired Ario scooters (which you find parked around the city) and had so much fun getting around.
If you can tear yourself away from your hotel pool or The Strand, Castle Hill has several walking trails for all abilities. To access the summit, with views over the city and Coral Sea, the Goat Track is less than two kilometres return but it’s steep and comprises uneven steps. Castle Hill Road is an easier, paved road but it’s longer at 5.2 kilometres return. Time your walk to see the sun set over the Coral Sea from this vantage point (there’s truly something special about the sunsets here in Townsville – they are unforgettable).
The Great Barrier Reef can be reached within a 20–90-minute boat ride from Townsville. Snorkel among the Coral Sea’s marine wonders at Magnetic Island, go diving at the shipwreck of SS Yongala, take a scenic flight over the GBR, or see the world-first Museum of Underwater Art. Aside from the snorkelling, Magnetic Island has 23 beaches, beautiful hiking and a large koala population – it’s worthy of a day trip or an overnight stay.
On land, the former Reef HQ was demolished in and is being completely rebuilt as the Great Barrier Reef Aquarium. When it opens in 2029, it will be the world’s largest living coral aquarium.
Embrace slow living in this underrated QLD gem. (Credit: Megan Arkinstall)
Spend an afternoon by the pool. (Credit: Megan Arkinstall)
The Pavilion sits on a premier waterfront location. (Credit: Megan Arkinstall)
Townsville has a plethora of dining options, with delicious food and superb service. Stand-outs for us included Shorehouse, which has an Asian fusion menu and an atmospheric tropical setting across from The Strand; cool neighbouring cafes The Spirited Goat and Happy Place for coffee and all-day breakfast; the newly opened Flinders Street Wharves for a happening pub vibe with casual food; and Miss Songs, an Asian restaurant within The Ville where the food and service was top-notch and the French Martini too easy to swig.
As for accommodation, it’s a battle between The Ville or Ardo Hotel – it just depends what kind of holiday you’re after. The Ville is stylish but playful, with a fabulous pool area, entertainment and multiple dining options (it’s perfect for families or travelling who love a happening vibe). Next door, The Ardo is its ultra-sophisticated counterpart – all sleek lines, neutral tones and a rooftop pool to die for (it’s great for couples, an adults’ escape or for anyone seeking solitude and luxury).
The verdict
Townsville is the kind of place you dream of escaping to during the Aussie winter, but a weekend in summer didn’t disappoint either. A big city with a slower pace, Townsville has all the hallmarks of a great coastal escape: a tropical climate, fantastic dining options, fun activities and a laidback vibe. You can head out to the Great Barrier Reef, go koala spotting on Magnetic Island, wander along the Strand, or spend an afternoon by the pool with a good book and a cocktail or two. As far as underrated places in Australia go, Townsville must be on the podium.
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Megan Arkinstall is a freelance travel writer who you’ll often find at the beach, bushwalking or boating with her young family. She loves reliving travel memories through writing, whether that be sipping limoncello in a sun-drenched courtyard of Monterosso or swimming with green turtles in the aquamarine waters of Tropical North Queensland.
Under wide-open outback skies, discover a fossicking gem that’s managed to slip under the radar.
While the name Clermont may feel new to even the most intrepid traveller, its gilded history stretches back centuries. You’ll find it just off the highway, humming quietly under the hazy veil of Queensland’s outback sun. It’s here, hemmed in by mountains and perched atop soil heavy with the earth’s treasures, that one of Australia’s most accessible outback adventures awaits.
Thanks to deposits of gold, copper and gemstones – souvenirs left by exploding supernovas and the heave of tectonic plates – Clermont became a centre point of Queensland’s Gold Rush. And now? Australia’s fossicking capital is yours to discover.
Getting there
Take a drive through Queensland’s Mackay Isaac region. (Image: Sean Scott/ TEQ)
You’ll find Clermont in Queensland’s Mackay Isaac region. To get here, it’s an easy three-hour drive over sealed roads from Mackay. Or, if you’re heading from the Sapphire Fields of Emerald, the drive will carve out just over an hour from your day.
Whether you’re road-tripping through outback Queensland or just tracing your way through all that Australia has to offer, Clermont is remote but easily accessible.
Best accommodation in Clermont
Camp by Theresa Creek Dam. (Image: Riptide Creative/ TEQ)
All accommodation comes with a generous helping of country hospitality here. The choice is yours between modern hotels, parking up the camper or pitching a tent.
Theresa Creek Dam lies just outside town. Begin each day with crisp country air and bright outback sunrises. Spend the night under the sparkling country stars and your days out on the dam fishing or kayaking. Even if you aren’t camping, be sure to save space in your itinerary for an afternoon on the red dirt shore.
One does not visit Clermont without trying their hand at fossicking. There are strict rules when it comes to fossicking, so stick to areas dedicated for general permission and make sure you obtain your license beforehand. Try your luck at McMasters, Four Mile, Town Desert, McDonald Flat and Flat Diggings. To increase your odds, sign on for a tour with the expert team at Golden Prospecting. They’ll give you access to exclusive plots and expert advice along the way.
Once you’ve tried your luck on the gold fields, head to the Clermont Township and Historical Museum. Each exhibit works like an archaeologist’s brush to dust away the layers of Clermont’s history. Like the steam engine that painstakingly relocated the entire town inch by inch to higher ground after it was decimated by flooding in 1916. See the tools that helped build the Blair Athol mine, historic fire engines, shearing sheds and all sorts of relics that make up Clermont’s story.
The historic Copperfield Chimney offers a change of pace. Legend has it that fossickers found a solid wall of copper here, over three metres high, kick-starting Queensland’s first-ever copper mine.
See Clermont from above with Bush Heli Services. (Image: Riptide Creative/ TEQ)
For hiking, nearby Dysart is the best place to access Peak Range National Park. Here, mountainous horizons stretch across the outback as if plucked from another world. Set off for a scenic drive along the Peak Downs Highway for access to countless geological wonders. Like the slanting rockface of Wolfang Peak. Summit it, and you’ll find yourself looking out across a scene surely conjured up by Banjo Paterson. Dry scrub dancing in the warm breeze, grazing cattle, eucalypts and the gentle creak of windmills. Don’t miss visiting Gemini Peaks, either, for one of the park’s best vistas, and a blanket of wild flowers after rain.
Then, take to the skies with a scenic helicopter tour with Bush Heli-Services. Shift your perspective and cruise above all the sights from your trip. Spots like Lords Table Mountain and Campbell’s Peak are best viewed from the skies.
Before you head home, be sure to explore the neighbouring townships. Spend a lazy afternoon in the shade of Nebo Hotel’s wrap-around verandahs. The hotel’s 1900s dance hall has since been replaced with one of the area’s biggest rodeo arenas, so consider timing your trip to line up with a boot scootin’ rodeo. Or, stop by a ghost town. Mount Britton was once a thriving town during the 1880s Gold Rush. It’s been totally abandoned and now lies untouched, a perfect relic of the Gold Rush.
Best restaurants and cafes in Clermont
Stop into the Commercial Hotel Clermont.
Days spent fossicking, bushwalking and cramming on history call for excellent coffee and hearty country meals. Luckily, Clermont delivers in spades.
Lotta Lattes Cafe is beloved by locals for a reason. Start your days here for the best caffeine fix in town and an impeccable brunch menu.
For a real country meal, an icy cold beer and that famed country hospitality, head straight to the town’s iconic hotel: the Commercial Hotel (known endearingly to locals as ‘The Commie’). It’s been a staple in Clermont since 1877. The hotel even survived the flood of 1916 when it was sawn in two and moved to higher ground.
Naturally, time spent in the outback must include calling into the local bakery. For delicious pies and a tantalising array of sweet treats, make Bluemac Bakehouse your go-to while in town.
