These spirits aren’t just inspired by the ocean; they’re made from it.
On South Australia’s Eyre Peninsula, life is ruled by the tides. It’s a region famous for wild coastlines, fresh seafood and a thriving aquaculture industry, where everyone from fisherfolk to marine biologists make a living on the sea.
Wildly beautiful coastlines characterise Coffin Bay. (Image: South Australian Tourism Commission)
But tucked between these sandy folds is something far more unexpected – a distillery redefining what it means to work with the ocean.
Don’t let its (slightly morbid) name fool you – Coffin Bay is a town full of colour and life. Over 600 kilometres south of Adelaide, it’s a place primarily known for its oyster production, a prosperous industry driven by local businesses offering everything from tours to tastings.
The Eyre Peninsula’s oyster production is an industry of abundance. (Image: Tourism Australia)
But on the other side of town, a small team is capturing the coast and its flavours in a whole new way. On the surface, Coffin Bay Spirits doesn’t seem too dissimilar to its neighbours, deeply rooted in its surrounds and championing local produce.
But take a closer look and you’ll start to notice the small differences that set it apart: hyperlocal ingredients, hands-on processes, and a product so specialised there’s nothing else quite like it.
A distillery doing things differently
Coffin Bay Spirits was officially opened in 2021 by owners Ben and Caro Deslandes.
Inspired by the region’s raw natural beauty and unique vegetation, local couple Ben and Caro Deslandes began experimenting with gin distillery in 2020. What started out as a fun hobby quickly evolved into something much bigger, leading to the official opening of Coffin Bay Spirits in 2021.
Hidden in a small pocket of Coffin Bay National Park on roughly 200 hectares of bushland, it’s the sort of place you’d breeze right past if you didn’t know about it.
This doesn’t bother the couple too much; the distillery is more of a passion project than a commercial venture. Ben and Caro never chased the crowds – but once their bottles hit shelves, the crowds found them anyway.
Each bottle is infused with hand-foraged local seaweed.
You see, the spirits produced here aren’t just inspired by the ocean; they’re made from it. Using a specialised fishing licence, the team – Ben, in particular – freedives for seaweed right off the national park’s shoreline. They collect fresh samples from eight different seaweed families, which are infused in the distillery’s four signature gins.
Samples from eight different seaweed families are used.
The Rare Coastal Gin is softened by locally foraged native juniper.
Expect a lingering sweetness from the Nitre Berry Gin.
The Nitre Berry Gin leans in gently, with a focus on sweet red fruit and a whisper of brine, while the Bush Blossom Gin is made with locally foraged natives, creating a more botanical profile.
Although softened by native juniper, the Rare Coastal Gin promises a true taste of the sea. The High Tide Gin embraces it completely, delivering an ‘oceanic mineral burst’ with an earthy black-pepper warmth.
A quiet opening for Coffin Bay
Since its conception, Coffin Bay Spirits has mostly operated behind closed doors. But in a moment of quiet reverence, small groups are now being accepted for private bookings. Available by appointment only, the exclusive experiences offer a never-before-seen glimpse inside the distillery, as well as a bespoke tasting session.
An exclusive tasting session includes fresh seafood paired with Coffin Bay cocktails.
The high-end experience includes fresh platters of locally sourced seafood paired with Coffin Bay cocktails and waterfront views. Guests may also join a guided coastal walk to see where ingredients are foraged, plus the opportunity to interact with and learn about the seaweeds used, in situ.
While the distillery has recently opened up to guests, visits are strictly by appointment only. Ben and Caro run the whole operation themselves, and with the new offering still in its early stages, availability is limited and bookings cannot be guaranteed. Those hoping to stop by will need to enquire directly.
But watch this space. The Deslandes continue to work hard behind the scenes, with more exciting developments expected in the months ahead. We’ll cheers to that.
Coffin Bay Spirits is stocked widely across South Australia, or can be purchased directly online.
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Taylah Darnell is Australian Traveller's Writer & Producer. She has been passionate about writing since she learnt to read, spending many hours either lost in the pages of books or attempting to write her own. This life-long love of words inspired her to study a Bachelor of Communication majoring in Creative Writing at the University of Technology Sydney, where she completed two editorial internships. She began her full-time career in publishing at Ocean Media before scoring her dream job with Australian Traveller. Now as Writer & Producer, Taylah passionately works across both digital platforms and print titles. When she's not wielding a red pen over magazine proofs, you can find Taylah among the aisles of a second-hand bookshop, following a good nature trail or cheering on her EPL team at 3am. While she's keen to visit places like Norway and New Zealand, her favourite place to explore will forever be her homeland.
Makers, bakers, artists, chefs, crafters – Ballarat and its surrounds are overflowing with creative spirits. All dedicated to keeping traditional skills alive for a city that is humming with artful energy.
Modern makers: a new generation of artists and artisans
“Keeping craft alive is a noble cause,” says Jess Cameron-Wootten, a charming and passionate master leathercrafter and cordwainer, who handmakes traditional leather boots and shoes in Ballarat’s old Gun Cotton Goods Store.
Ballarat was recognised in 2019 as a UNESCO Creative City of Craft and Folk Art, and today it’s a place where craft traditions converge with contemporary needs. Nothing quite captures this convergence as a visit to Wootten , the workshop and store of Jess Cameron-Wootten and his partner Krystina Menegazzo.
Ballarat’s streets are lined with heritage buildings. (Image: Matt Dunne)
Jess’s father was an artisan bootmaker, or cordwainer. Now Jess and Krys and their small team of artisans continue the tradition, but with a modern spin. The company’s boots and shoes, made completely from scratch, are renowned for their quality and longevity. Wootten also craft shoes, bags, belts, leather aprons, wallets and more.
Cosy beanies, gloves, alpaca socks, “unbreakable” shoelaces and various other goods – many from local craftspeople and small-scale makers – fill the shop’s shelves. “We’re always happy to support a mate,” says Jess. “People love to see the workshop and where things are made. Our clients care about quality and sustainability,” Krys comments. The company slogan ‘Made for generations’ says it all.
Ruby Pilven’s ceramics at Ross Creek Gallery. (Image: Tara Moore)
For Ruby Pilven, craft is also in the DNA – both her parents were potters and with her latest porcelain ceramics, Ruby’s young daughter has been helping add colour to the glazes. “I grew up watching my parents in the workshop – I’ve always been doing ceramics,” she says, although her Visual Arts degree was in printmaking. That printmaking training comes through particularly in the rich layering of pattern. Her audacious colour, unexpected shapes and sudden pops of 12-carat gold are contemporary, quirky – and joyful.
You can see Ruby’s handcrafted ceramics, and work by other local and regional artists, at Ross Creek Gallery , a light-filled space surrounded by serene bushland, across from the mudbrick house her parents built in the 1980s. A 10-minute drive from Ballarat, it’s a tangible link to the region’s well-established craft traditions.
How Ballarat is preserving the past
The Centre for Rare Arts & Forgotten Trades holds workshops to preserve crafts and skills.
While tradition is ongoing, there’s a danger that many of these specific type of skills and knowledge are fading as an older generation passes on. Step forward the Centre for Rare Arts and Forgotten Trades .
The seven purpose-built studios occupy a fabulous modern building adjacent to Sovereign Hill, with state-of-the-art facilities, enormous windows and landscape views across to Warrenheip and Wadawurrung Country.
Check out artisanal works at the Centre for Rare Arts and Forgotten Trades.
Practising artisans run hands-on workshops. Fancy making your own medieval armour? Or trying your hand at blacksmithing, spinning wool, plaiting leather, weaving cane or craft a knife? Book a class and learn how. “It’s about creating awareness and also sharing knowledge and skills before they are lost,” explains Deborah Klein, the centre manager.
A city steeped in food and flavours
Chef José Fernandez creates vibrant South American street food at Pancho. (Image: Ballarat Tourism)
One skill that hasn’t been lost is that of cooking. Ballarat’s burgeoning gastronomy scene runs the gamut from an artisan bakery (the atmospheric 1816 Bakehouse) to cool coffee shops, speakeasy cocktail bars and distilleries to fine-dining venues. But I’m still surprised to find Pancho , José Fernandez’s South American street food restaurant, serving fried cheese tequeños, fiery fish tacos, Argentinian grilled chicken.
The room is as lively as the food – a whirl of colour filled with gifted and thrifted paintings, photos, tchotchkes (trinkets), plants. There’s a Mexican abuela aesthetic going on here. Even before the music and mezcal kick in, it’s fun. Heads up on the drinks menu – an authentic selection of mezcal, tequila, South American wines and Mexican cerveza.
Enjoy a cocktail at Itinerant Spirits. (Image: Ballarat Tourism)
The spirit is willing, so after lunch we head towards the gold rush-era Ballarat train station and across the line to the old 1860s Goods Shed for Itinerant Spirits . At one end, a massive German copper still looms behind a wall of glass. The fit-out embraces deep olive-green tones, original bluestone walls, steamer trunks as coffee tables, heritage timber floors, oversized lamp shades and cognac-hued modernist leather seating.
The distillery operates from an old goods shed. (Image: Ballarat Tourism)
Gallivanter Gin, Vansetter Vodka and Wayfarer Whiskey – the key spirits distilled – star at the bar. The spirits are crafted using grains from the Wimmera Mallee region, and native botanicals foraged in the Grampians. Seasonal cocktails are inspired by local people and places (I loved The Headland, inspired by Sovereign Hill and flavoured with old-fashioned raspberry drops). Sample the spirits, and join a cocktail masterclass or a distillery tour. It’s a seductive setting – you’ll likely find yourself ordering a charcuterie platter or pizza as the evening progresses.
The Ballarat stay combining history and luxury
The rooms at Hotel Vera have a contemporary style. (Image: Ballarat Tourism)
New lives for old buildings keeps history alive. Vera, Ballarat’s boutique five-star hotel, has taken it to the next level: it’s a palimpsest, a subtle layering of early 1900s and 1930s Art Deco architecture with a sleek new wing. There are seven spacious suites, each a dramatically different colour, with designer chairs, blissful bathrooms. High-end pottery and hand-picked artworks imbue the spaces with personality.
Vera’s intimate, award-winning restaurant, Babae, is subtly theatrical with sheer drapes and gallery lighting, its bespoke timber furniture and brass-edged marble bench setting the stage for food with a sharp regional focus. “We have goat’s cheese from a local supplier, handmade granola from local Vegas & Rose, truffles from nearby Black Cat Truffles, fresh food from our garden, and regional wines,” says joint owner David Cook-Doulton.
Celebrating the local makers, bakers, growers and producers, and the master chefs who work their magic is all part of the rich tapestry that links Ballarat’s history to its vibrant present.
A traveller’s checklist
Getting there
It’s 90 minutes from Melbourne, either on the Western Freeway, or hop on a V/Line train from Southern Cross Station.
Staying there
Hotel Vera is a centrally located Art Deco boutique hotel. Consider Hotel Provincial , which feels like a sleek country house, but with its own restaurant, Lola.
Hotel Provincial has country house vibes.
Eating there
The table is set at Mr Jones. (Image: Tony Evans/ Visit Victoria)
Culinary whiz Damien Jones helms Chef’s Hat winner Mr Jones Dining with quiet assurance. His modern Asian food is deceptively simple with deep, intense flavours. Low-key, laid-back ambience, lovely staff, thoughtful wine list.
Cocktails are definitely a thing in Ballarat. Reynard (fox in French) is foxy indeed, a clubby space with top-notch cocktails and small bites. Grainery Lane is extravagantly OTT with its massive 1880s bar, myriad chandeliers, brass gin still, Asian-inspired food and lavish cocktails.
Dining at Grainery Lane.
Playing there
An artful laneway in the city. (Image: Ballarat Tourism)
Don’t forget the giant bluestone Kryal Castle , ‘the land of adventure’, for a little medieval magic, and not just for the kids: get ready for Highland-style feasting, jousting, even overnight stays.
