This small coastal town is South Australia’s best-kept secret

hero media
An unlikely tourist mecca on South Australia’s rugged Eyre Peninsula offers a unique immersion in an unrivalled aquatic environment.

What are the necessary ingredients for the perfect Aussie summer holiday? Nabbing a spot near a swimmable beach ranks pretty highly, as does ensuring the eskies are well-stocked with chilled seafood and even colder drinks. Maybe you can even throw in a few roos hopping around or a sunset over the water.

the Baird Bay Experience boat anchors, Eyre Peninsula, SA
The Baird Bay Experience boat anchors while guests explore the pristine underwater environment. (Image: Tourism Australia)

The sleepy town of Baird Bay, which lies three hours north of Port Lincoln on South Australia’s Eyre Peninsula, ticks all of these boxes. But it also boasts one more factor that lifts it above any competitors.

Though this small collection of holiday homes has a permanent population of just five, there are plenty more locals on the rocky islet where the sheltered bay meets the roaring Southern Ocean. And the 140 Australian sea lions are every bit as friendly as their human counterparts.

sea lions swimming in Baird Bay, Eyre Peninsula, SA
Swimming with sea lions is one of the ultimate bucket-list experiences to enjoy off the coast of South Australia’s Eyre Peninsula. (Image: Robert Lang Photography)

When I reach Jones Island after a 20-minute boat ride, two females and a large bull are swimming in the shallows. A few pups splash around closer to shore, while dozens of mature sea lions laze between the low scrub and craggy limestone protrusions.

Hopping into the water, our group slowly moves towards these curious beasts, which look comically clumsy when dragging themselves over the rocks, but are superbly graceful once they hit the water.

Before long, an immature bull swims right through the middle of the group before sitting on the bottom and regarding us thoughtfully. Though we’ve been told to stay at least a metre away, he’s under no such restrictions and comes face to face with several swimmers, his whiskers almost touching their faces.

sea lions up close
Engage with the natural world up close. (Image: Tourism Australia)

The other sea lions soon grow jealous of the attention he’s getting and several playful females join the fun. The sea lions corkscrew and pirouette around us effortlessly before leaping out of the water to show off their creamy bellies. I’m so caught up in the spectacle that I’m shocked when our guide, marine biologist Emma Wilkins, says we’ve been in the water for an hour.

But when we hop back onboard, I barely have time to finish a cup of hot chocolate before we’re back in the water, this time to watch 20 dolphins passing so closely I can make out the scratches and scars along their otherwise smooth grey backs.

dolphins swimming in Baird Bay, Eyre Peninsula
Swimming with dolphins is part of the Baird Bay Experience. (Image: Robert Lang Photography)

“With most wildlife experiences, you’re wearing camo or tucked away in a hide," says Kat Bevan, one half of the husband-and-wife team that manages Baird Bay Experience. “But here, you’re in the animals’ habitat and they come right up to you. There’s nothing like it in the world!"

Baird Bay Experience manager Kat Bevan
Baird Bay Experience manager Kat Bevan is passionate about conservation. (Image: Robert Lang Photography)

We’re tucking into a post-swim lunch of herb-crusted King George whiting with beetroot and citrus salad as I learn about some of the other regional highlights. Baird Bay Experience was relaunched late last year by luxury travel specialist The Tailor, and in addition to the sea lion and dolphin swims, it has two freshly renovated onsite villas that allow it to double as Australia’s newest all-inclusive lodge.

the outdoor lounge at one of the seaside villas, Baird Bay Experience
Guests of Seaside Villas are invited to unwind in the outdoor lounge. (Image: Robert Lang Photography)

The rammed-earth buildings have seven bedrooms between them and are linked by a sunken barbecue area and inviting saltwater pool that looks over the bay. Any groups that book the villas have exclusive use of the property, and there are enough activities in the surrounding region to keep guests busy for weeks. They can try private surfing lessons, set up a cricket pitch on a sandbar in the middle of the bay or visit a local oyster farmer and bring back a few dozen fresh oysters to snack on.

Manager Brendon Bevan of Baird Bay Experience
Manager Brendon Bevan is committed to caring for the environment. (Image: Robert Lang Photography)

Kat can organise e-biking trips to Point Labatt to see herds of sea lions and New Zealand fur seals lazing on slabs of red granite. Or lead nature walks through the surrounding bush where “you go over a couple of sand dunes and then suddenly it’s all red sand and spinifex and you could be in inland Australia".

fishing and kayaking on Baird Bay
The bay is ideal for fishing and kayaking. (Image: Robert Lang Photography)

I decide on a spot of fishing out the front of the villas with Kat’s husband Brendon, who takes me out on a pedal-powered kayak. I’m convinced Brendon has somehow set things to easy mode as I reel in one salmon trout after another along with a few trevallies.

pelicans on the Eyre Peninsula
Pelicans congregate on the Eyre Peninsula. (Image: Getty/Wildkirin Photography)

Guests can bring their catch back to be scaled and filleted, which, according to Kat, “provides a bit of theatre because all the pelicans come in and you can throw bits of fish to them". More importantly, inhouse chef Calvin Von Niebel can incorporate them into the next day’s menu.

Executive chef Calvin Von Neibel at sea
Executive chef Calvin Von Neibel celebrates the bounty of the sea. (Image: Robert Lang Photography)

Even when guests return empty-handed, the former executive chef for the Ottolenghi group has enough local contacts to turn every meal into a mini geography lesson.

Streaky Bay oysters, Baird Bay Experience
Snack on freshly caught oysters. (Image: Robert Lang Photography)

Freshly shucked Smoky Bay oysters arrive with mignonette and green nam jim, bluefin tuna from Sceale Bay is marinated in lime and coconut, Cook Islands style, and Port Kenny squid turns up in a salad with potatoes, zucchini flowers and gazpacho.

Add in Venus Bay prawns, blue swimmer crabs from Streaky Bay and whiting pulled out of the waters directly in front of the lodge and you have an embarrassment of riches, even in a region famed for its maritime bounty.

a white-sand beach on Streaky Bay
Streaky Bay is 50 kilometres to the north of Baird Bay. (Image: Getty/Mackenzie Sweetnam)

Dinners are accompanied by sublime views over the bay, which is turned into a shimmering golden platter by the setting sun. As the pelicans skim over the surface on their way home and mobs of western greys come out to graze, I’m hard-pressed to think of a better location for a summer getaway.

a sea lion swimming at sea with a boat behind it
Dive into the experience. (Image: David Edgar)

“Streaky Bay is the closest town, and that’s a quintessential laid-back Aussie fishing village where all the locals are friendly – almost like Summer Bay in Home & Away," Kat tells me.

“But even that feels a long way away. We’re in a very remote part of Australia that is off the beaten track and not really heard of. But it has awesome beaches, produce and wildlife… What more could you want?"

A traveller’s checklist

Getting there

Baird Bay is about three hours north of Port Lincoln, with a pickup service available for overnight guests. Chartered flights can also be organised to Streaky Bay.

Playing there

Baird Bay Experience’s sea lion and dolphin swims run from 1 September to 30 June and cost $325, including wetsuit hire and a two-course lunch.

Staying there

the Eko Seaside Villa, Baird Bay
Eko Seaside Villa epitomises quiet luxury. (Image: Robert Lang Photography)

All-inclusive stays in one of the two villas at Baird Bay Seaside Villas are $2000 per person per night, for a minimum of two guests. That rate includes safari-style touring, chef-prepared meals, beverages and transfers from Streaky Bay.

Alexis Buxton-Collins
Alexis Buxton-Collins spent his twenties working as a music journalist and beer taster before somehow landing an even dreamier job as a freelance travel writer. Now he travels the world from his base in Adelaide and contributes to publications including Qantas, Escape, The Guardian and Lonely Planet. Alexis has never seen a hill he didn't want to climb and specialises in outdoor adventures (he won the 2022 ASTW award for best nature/wildlife story for a feature on Kangaroo Island). When he's not scouring South Australia for the newest wineries and hikes, he's looking for excuses to get back to spots like Karijini and Ningaloo.
See all articles
hero media

7 features of a quintessential Aussie road trip

No one does road trips like Australians. Make your journey perfect.

The humble road trip is a way of life in Australia, and it’s not the same here as it is anywhere else. Sure, you could fly, but then you’re missing out on the bonding time and priceless memories that get made along the way (good or bad, you’ll be sharing them for years to come). Not to mention, some of Australia’s most worthwhile and untouched places can only be accessed by road .

But how to ensure your road trip is quintessentially perfect? Why use this checklist, of course.

1. Start with the perfect vehicle

A woman sitting while reading inside Star RV Motorhomes spacious Polaris 6.
Relax with stunning views in a spacious motorhome. (Image: Demi Gavin)

I can tell you from experience, nothing will push even the most tight-knit group to devolve into chaos and fighting faster than a vehicle that isn’t up to the task of a proper road trip. Enter the premium options of Star RV Motorhomes.

They have a range of sizes to suit any group, from solo travellers and couples to families. And they’re designed to be easy to drive.

Take the Polaris 6 , for example. This light-filled sanctuary of comfort has plenty of space for bigger groups. Three double beds, a shower and toilet, and an extendable awning (with room to move between them all) make it perfect for exploring Australia.

Couples might prefer the Polaris 2 with a fully self-contained bathroom, kitchen and a bed for two that transforms into comfortable seating during the day. Both models are pet-friendly.

2. Pack the tastiest snacks

A couple having a picnic beside Star RV Motorhomes.
Make use of the spacious storage in your Star RV.

Road trip snacks are an Australian art. Some, you’ll need to pick up along the way. We’re talking the iconic Chico Roll, choccie milk and maybe a sneaky potato scallop (or several).

Others, you can pack ahead of time to save on time and, usually, money. Thankfully, Star RV Motorhomes all come with plenty of storage space, so your snacks can last as long as your road trip. Think fresh fruit and other supplies to cook lunch and dinner along the way. Plenty of lollies and maybe even some soft drinks and Red Bulls for the road.

Not to mention, many Star RV motorhomes have a kitchen onboard, complete with a full-size kitchen, so you won’t need to lug an esky around.

3. Bring your pet for the ride

A child and its pet inside Star RV Motorhomes.
Travel Australia with your four-legged co-pilot. (Image: Erin Bacchi)

Man’s best friend is essential for a truly Aussie road trip. Pet-friendly Star RV Motorhomes not only mean your dog (or cat, if they enjoy the open road more than mine do) can experience Australia with you, but that you save a small fortune on pet sitters or dog hotels.

4. Prepare the perfect soundtrack

Two people having coffee with a view.
Chase the journey and the destination.

No ifs, ands or buts, the perfect soundtrack can make or break a road trip. It’s really up to you, but we recommend plenty of Australian classics. Cold Chisel never hits quite the same as when you’re listening to it with only gumtrees and kangaroos for company.

Of course, this means you’ll also need a good sound system to listen to your carefully curated tunes on. Star RV motorhome sound systems allow you to connect your device and play your own music. Goodbye, spotty radio reception.

5. A spacious tent and camping gear

A woman sitting inside Star RV Motorhomes with a view of the lake in the background.
Enjoy soft linens and space to stretch. (Image: Cariund Hannes)

If there’s one thing that a road trip can guarantee, it’s a campsite or several. So you’d better source a good sturdy tent, sleeping back, and a camping mattress that probably won’t help much – but it’s better than the ground.

Or, just hire a motorhome so your vehicle is also your bed, and comfort is a priority (goodbye foam camp mattresses) with linens provided. And you’ll have room to unpack and move around. Heaven.

6. Plan your toilet breaks

Typically, an Aussie road trip means pulling over at a good bushy area or finding a horrific pit toilet on the side of the road – the smell of which will stay with you forevermore. If you’re planning to camp, better pack that handy shovel and find a good, bug-free place to dig your own loo hole.

To avoid that hassle (and smell), forgo the shovel and hire a motorhome with an onboard toilet. When the toilet comes with you, there are no emergency roadside stops. Plus, it’s a whole lot fresher.

7. Pick the ultimate destination

Aerial view of the Polaris 6 cruising along a coastal road with sweeping beach views.
Hit the road, Aussie-style. (Image: Matt Finch)

Of course, the journey is half the fun. But the other half is an incredible destination. With accommodation and transportation sorted out with one motorhome, you have the flexibility to choose a gorgeous view for the night (or several).

There are endless views to choose from, like the rugged cliff faces of Queensland’s Carnarvon Gorge National Park. Carnarvon Gorge camping area (near the visitor area) and the Big Bend walkers’ camp both have bushy surrounds and a trail to the gorge itself.

Or Lake Argyle, Western Australia‘s largest man-made freshwater reservoir. Find the only dedicated camping and caravan park at Lake Argyle Resort.

Meanwhile, Mount Buffalo National Park in Victoria is prolific for its wildlife. Wander through snow gum forests and keep an eye out for wombats, Australian kestrels and more. There are several camp options here.

Start planning your Australian road trip adventure (and get 15 per cent off on any Star RV motorhome rental in Australia) at starrv.com/au .