This small coastal town is South Australia’s best-kept secret

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An unlikely tourist mecca on South Australia’s rugged Eyre Peninsula offers a unique immersion in an unrivalled aquatic environment.

What are the necessary ingredients for the perfect Aussie summer holiday? Nabbing a spot near a swimmable beach ranks pretty highly, as does ensuring the eskies are well-stocked with chilled seafood and even colder drinks. Maybe you can even throw in a few roos hopping around or a sunset over the water.

the Baird Bay Experience boat anchors, Eyre Peninsula, SA
The Baird Bay Experience boat anchors while guests explore the pristine underwater environment. (Image: Tourism Australia)

The sleepy town of Baird Bay, which lies three hours north of Port Lincoln on South Australia’s Eyre Peninsula, ticks all of these boxes. But it also boasts one more factor that lifts it above any competitors.

Though this small collection of holiday homes has a permanent population of just five, there are plenty more locals on the rocky islet where the sheltered bay meets the roaring Southern Ocean. And the 140 Australian sea lions are every bit as friendly as their human counterparts.

sea lions swimming in Baird Bay, Eyre Peninsula, SA
Swimming with sea lions is one of the ultimate bucket-list experiences to enjoy off the coast of South Australia’s Eyre Peninsula. (Image: Robert Lang Photography)

When I reach Jones Island after a 20-minute boat ride, two females and a large bull are swimming in the shallows. A few pups splash around closer to shore, while dozens of mature sea lions laze between the low scrub and craggy limestone protrusions.

Hopping into the water, our group slowly moves towards these curious beasts, which look comically clumsy when dragging themselves over the rocks, but are superbly graceful once they hit the water.

Before long, an immature bull swims right through the middle of the group before sitting on the bottom and regarding us thoughtfully. Though we’ve been told to stay at least a metre away, he’s under no such restrictions and comes face to face with several swimmers, his whiskers almost touching their faces.

sea lions up close
Engage with the natural world up close. (Image: Tourism Australia)

The other sea lions soon grow jealous of the attention he’s getting and several playful females join the fun. The sea lions corkscrew and pirouette around us effortlessly before leaping out of the water to show off their creamy bellies. I’m so caught up in the spectacle that I’m shocked when our guide, marine biologist Emma Wilkins, says we’ve been in the water for an hour.

But when we hop back onboard, I barely have time to finish a cup of hot chocolate before we’re back in the water, this time to watch 20 dolphins passing so closely I can make out the scratches and scars along their otherwise smooth grey backs.

dolphins swimming in Baird Bay, Eyre Peninsula
Swimming with dolphins is part of the Baird Bay Experience. (Image: Robert Lang Photography)

“With most wildlife experiences, you’re wearing camo or tucked away in a hide," says Kat Bevan, one half of the husband-and-wife team that manages Baird Bay Experience. “But here, you’re in the animals’ habitat and they come right up to you. There’s nothing like it in the world!"

Baird Bay Experience manager Kat Bevan
Baird Bay Experience manager Kat Bevan is passionate about conservation. (Image: Robert Lang Photography)

We’re tucking into a post-swim lunch of herb-crusted King George whiting with beetroot and citrus salad as I learn about some of the other regional highlights. Baird Bay Experience was relaunched late last year by luxury travel specialist The Tailor, and in addition to the sea lion and dolphin swims, it has two freshly renovated onsite villas that allow it to double as Australia’s newest all-inclusive lodge.

the outdoor lounge at one of the seaside villas, Baird Bay Experience
Guests of Seaside Villas are invited to unwind in the outdoor lounge. (Image: Robert Lang Photography)

The rammed-earth buildings have seven bedrooms between them and are linked by a sunken barbecue area and inviting saltwater pool that looks over the bay. Any groups that book the villas have exclusive use of the property, and there are enough activities in the surrounding region to keep guests busy for weeks. They can try private surfing lessons, set up a cricket pitch on a sandbar in the middle of the bay or visit a local oyster farmer and bring back a few dozen fresh oysters to snack on.

Manager Brendon Bevan of Baird Bay Experience
Manager Brendon Bevan is committed to caring for the environment. (Image: Robert Lang Photography)

Kat can organise e-biking trips to Point Labatt to see herds of sea lions and New Zealand fur seals lazing on slabs of red granite. Or lead nature walks through the surrounding bush where “you go over a couple of sand dunes and then suddenly it’s all red sand and spinifex and you could be in inland Australia".

fishing and kayaking on Baird Bay
The bay is ideal for fishing and kayaking. (Image: Robert Lang Photography)

I decide on a spot of fishing out the front of the villas with Kat’s husband Brendon, who takes me out on a pedal-powered kayak. I’m convinced Brendon has somehow set things to easy mode as I reel in one salmon trout after another along with a few trevallies.

pelicans on the Eyre Peninsula
Pelicans congregate on the Eyre Peninsula. (Image: Getty/Wildkirin Photography)

Guests can bring their catch back to be scaled and filleted, which, according to Kat, “provides a bit of theatre because all the pelicans come in and you can throw bits of fish to them". More importantly, inhouse chef Calvin Von Niebel can incorporate them into the next day’s menu.

Executive chef Calvin Von Neibel at sea
Executive chef Calvin Von Neibel celebrates the bounty of the sea. (Image: Robert Lang Photography)

Even when guests return empty-handed, the former executive chef for the Ottolenghi group has enough local contacts to turn every meal into a mini geography lesson.

Streaky Bay oysters, Baird Bay Experience
Snack on freshly caught oysters. (Image: Robert Lang Photography)

Freshly shucked Smoky Bay oysters arrive with mignonette and green nam jim, bluefin tuna from Sceale Bay is marinated in lime and coconut, Cook Islands style, and Port Kenny squid turns up in a salad with potatoes, zucchini flowers and gazpacho.

Add in Venus Bay prawns, blue swimmer crabs from Streaky Bay and whiting pulled out of the waters directly in front of the lodge and you have an embarrassment of riches, even in a region famed for its maritime bounty.

a white-sand beach on Streaky Bay
Streaky Bay is 50 kilometres to the north of Baird Bay. (Image: Getty/Mackenzie Sweetnam)

Dinners are accompanied by sublime views over the bay, which is turned into a shimmering golden platter by the setting sun. As the pelicans skim over the surface on their way home and mobs of western greys come out to graze, I’m hard-pressed to think of a better location for a summer getaway.

a sea lion swimming at sea with a boat behind it
Dive into the experience. (Image: David Edgar)

“Streaky Bay is the closest town, and that’s a quintessential laid-back Aussie fishing village where all the locals are friendly – almost like Summer Bay in Home & Away," Kat tells me.

“But even that feels a long way away. We’re in a very remote part of Australia that is off the beaten track and not really heard of. But it has awesome beaches, produce and wildlife… What more could you want?"

Need tips, more detail or itinerary ideas tailored to you? Ask AT.

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A traveller’s checklist

Getting there

Baird Bay is about three hours north of Port Lincoln, with a pickup service available for overnight guests. Chartered flights can also be organised to Streaky Bay.

Playing there

Baird Bay Experience’s sea lion and dolphin swims run from 1 September to 30 June and cost $325, including wetsuit hire and a two-course lunch.

Staying there

the Eko Seaside Villa, Baird Bay
Eko Seaside Villa epitomises quiet luxury. (Image: Robert Lang Photography)

All-inclusive stays in one of the two villas at Baird Bay Seaside Villas are $2000 per person per night, for a minimum of two guests. That rate includes safari-style touring, chef-prepared meals, beverages and transfers from Streaky Bay.

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Alexis Buxton-Collins
Alexis Buxton-Collins spent his twenties working as a music journalist and beer taster before somehow landing an even dreamier job as a freelance travel writer. Now he travels the world from his base in Adelaide and contributes to publications including Qantas, Escape, The Guardian and Lonely Planet. Alexis has never seen a hill he didn't want to climb and specialises in outdoor adventures (he won the 2022 ASTW award for best nature/wildlife story for a feature on Kangaroo Island). When he's not scouring South Australia for the newest wineries and hikes, he's looking for excuses to get back to spots like Karijini and Ningaloo.
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The best new accommodation along the Great Ocean Road

    Louis Costello Louis Costello
    A new wave of retreats, hotels, glamping sites and more is encouraging visitors to savour their time spent along the Great Ocean Road.

    Long holding a place as one of Australia’s most rewarding drives, cliffs, curves and shifting coastal light continue to draw travellers to Victoria’s coastline year after year. What has evolved more quietly is the range of new accommodation along the Great Ocean Road to add new dimensions to the drive.

    Rather than competing for attention, these stays are shaped by their settings. They sit beside rivers, among vines, on the edge of lakes and close to town centres where local life unfolds at an unhurried pace. Together, they point to a way of travelling the Great Ocean Road that values time spent in place, as much as distance covered.

    1. The Monty, Anglesea

    Nina Cantina at the monty great ocean road
    Pop into Nina Cantina for tacos and views.

    Anglesea has always appealed to travellers drawn to a quieter stretch of coast, where surf culture, bushland and river scenery blend into one. The Monty complements that character with a recent rebrand and refresh with traditional beach road trip nostalgia in mind. Mid-century retro decor means rooms are contemporary and funky, without being over-styled.

    A highlight of the stay is Nina Cantina, the on-site Mexican restaurant overlooking the Anglesea River. Opening in 2026, it will undoubtedly become a popular gathering point, bringing together locals, day trippers and overnight guests. Watch the river flow while tucking into plates of tacos, before enjoying a digestion swim in The Monty’s pool.

    Mornings in Anglesea often begin quietly. Kangaroos are a familiar sight on the nearby golf course, and walking tracks wind through heathland that reflects the natural landscape of the Surf Coast. From here, the road south feels like a continuation rather than a departure, easing travellers into the next stretch of the journey.

    2. Basalt Retreats, Port Fairy

    Basalt Retreat Private Villa interior
    Discover this new adults-only retreat.

    Near Port Fairy, Basalt Retreats is an adults-only delight set among a 24-year-old vineyard at Basalt Wines. The accommodation is a mixture of luxury and linens (and ultra comfy beds), allowing the long stretches of grapes to take centre stage. As the sun sets, Basalt Retreats settles into stillness. With minimal light pollution, the night sky becomes part of the experience, and star-searchers will delight in the uninterrupted views of our vast universe.

    Poombeeyt Koontapool lookout
    See Poombeeyt Koontapool from the lookout.

    Staying along the Great Ocean Road western region gives you en route access to coastal landmarks. A visit to Poombeeyt Koontapool at Loch Ard Gorge is a must for those fascinated by natural blowholes, with enough walking trails to tucker out the most seasoned hiker.

    The Poorpa Yanyeen Meereeng Trail between Timboon and Port Campbell reveals how wetlands, farmland and coastline connect across the region, best appreciated on foot or by bike.

    3. Lake Colac Holiday Park, Colac

    cabin at Lake Colac Holiday Park
    Book into a cabin at Lake Colac Holiday Park.

    Lake Colac Holiday Park introduces new cabin accommodation set along the edge of a broad volcanic lake. The cabins are modern and light-filled, designed to make the most of the water views and open skies.

    Lake Colac plays an important role in local life, hosting community events and everyday rituals alike. Staying here offers insight into the agricultural heart of the Great Ocean Road region, where the pace is shaped by seasons rather than sightseeing schedules.

    Brae Restaurant great ocean road victoria
    Have a delicious lunch, then join a farm tour at Brae Restaurant. (Image: Visit Vic)

    Colac’s central location places visitors within reach of standout regional experiences. Otways Distillery’s Birregurra cellar door reflects the surrounding forest in its approach to spirits. While Brae Restaurant’s guided farm and kitchen garden tours offer a closer look at the land that underpins its acclaimed dining. Together, they highlight the strong connection between produce, place and people.

    4. Glamping tents, Apollo Bay Recreation Reserve

    Apollo Bay Recreation Reserve Glamping
    Take a breather in Apollo Bay with brand new glamping tents.

    Back on the coast, Apollo Bay has always been known to be a natural place to take a breather, sitting roughly at the Great Ocean Road’s midway point. The brand-spanking new glamping tents at the Apollo Bay Recreation Reserve offer comfortable accommodation that remains closely connected to the outdoors. With ensuite bathrooms and thoughtfully designed interiors, the cabin-tent hybrids offer enough privacy and luxuries to make the trip feel more luxurious than your standard camping affair.

    Set near the river and within walking distance of the town centre, the location allows guests to move easily between beach walks, forest drives and relaxed meals.

    A session at The Corner Sauna fits naturally into a stay here. The wood-fired sauna has become part of Apollo Bay’s way of life, offering warmth and restoration after time spent in the elements (also known as a frolic at the beach).

    Apollo Bay Fishermens Co-op
    Enjoy fresh seafood at Apollo Bay Fishermen’s Co-op.

    Apollo Bay has enough to entertain and dazzle travellers more than your average town. Graze on fresh seafood at local cafes – like Graze or Apollo Bay Fishermen’s Co-op before venturing to nearby waterfalls. Spend hours kayaking among real-life seals, try your hand at surf lessons taught by understanding and patient guides, or simply spend your days reading a book while the surf crashes in front of you.

    Together, these new accommodation openings highlight the Great Ocean Road’s continued evolution. With more places that invite travellers to slow down and stay a little longer, the journey becomes less about rushing between landmarks and more about engaging with the unique towns along the way.

    Start planning your next trip along the Great Ocean Road at visitgreatoceanroad.org.au.