AT rock hound Kerry van der Jagt steps back in geological time to investigate this extraordinary South Australian cluster.
Short answer:
Near Streaky Bay, 700km northwest of Adelaide, a group of rock stars take centre stage in the middle of a wheat field.
Long Answer:
Murphy’s Haystacks are ancient wind-worn pink granite boulders that formed 1500 million years ago. Around 40km south of the popular fishing and tourist town of Streaky Bay on SA’s Eyre Peninsular, they stand like a crooked set of giant’s molars on a hilltop just 2km off the Flinders Hwy.
Murphy’s haystacks in all their glory
Folklore has them named after a Scottish agricultural expert who spotted the crop of remarkable rocks from the local mail coach. The Scotsman obviously had a fertile imagination. “That man must harrow," he commented to his fellow travellers. “Look at all the hay he has saved."
The owner of the land was Denis Murphy, and faster than you could shout “mine’s a Guinness!" the Murphy’s Haystacks nickname had stuck. Of course they’ve nothing to do with haymaking and are in fact great examples of weathered granite inselberg formations (German for “island-mountain"). They’re part of a larger mass called the Hiltaba Granite, named for the Hiltaba Station in the southwest Gawler Ranges, under which much of the mass lies.
The granite was originally hidden deep in the Earth’s crust, probably some 7-10 km below the surface, but over eons the overlying rocks have worn to be transported and deposited on the surrounding continental shelf and inland basins.
Next time you’re crossing the Nullabor, think about a detour
The granite hills of the district, including the haystacks, were buried by calcareous dune sand about 30,000 years ago. Gradual weathering has shaped the granite to reveal the weird and wonky pillars and boulders we see today.
So, if you’re crossing the Nullarbor or visiting the Eyre Peninsular, hop off the highway, skip down a side street and jump around among an ancient rock garden as old as time itself.
Fun fact:
French Impressionist painter Claude Monet had a thing for haystacks. Haystacks, Midday 1890 is part of the collection held by the National Gallery of Australia in Canberra.
Did you know:
The name Murphy is a modern form of the ancient Irish name O’ Murchadha, which means “descendant of sea warrior" in Gaelic
And did you also know: The popular TV series MythBusters attempted to find “a needle in a haystack" by means of fire, water and a magnet (they managed it, but it was unbelievably difficult).
No matter your age and no matter your interests, Victoria’s coastal Bellarine region makes for a memorable getaway for the whole family.
Curving into Port Phillip Bay and extending south from Geelong, The Bellarine is a gorgeous coast-meets-country destination. It’s a captivating mix of beachside towns, rolling farms and vineyards, effortlessly cool eating and drinking spots and coastal vistas that seem to stretch beyond the horizon.
Among its many highlights is a plethora of family-friendly activities to suit all ages and all interests. Here’s your guide to the ultimate Bellarine getaway guaranteed to keep every generation happy.
1. Tuckerberry Hill Farm
Pick your own fruit at Tuckerberry Hill Farm.
There may be no better way to spend an early morning than by foraging and feasting on your own bounty of berries. At Tuckerberry Hill Farm , you can pick blueberries, strawberries and stone fruit from November through March. Take them home or enjoy on the farm’s sun-dappled grounds.
Tuckerberry also has a regular market selling farm-fresh produce, plus an inviting on-site cafe doing light lunches, drinks, home-baked treats and condiments – many of which incorporate the farm’s own harvest.
2. The Oxley Estate
Wake up to the neighbours.
A memorable holiday starts with a memorable place to stay, and The Oxley Estate delivers. Situated in the relaxed coastal town of Portarlington, the sprawling site offers thoughtfully styled rooms and activities that’ll keep both parents and kids entertained.
Wander the fragrant rose gardens, olive grove and fruit-laden orchards. Meet the resident alpacas, donkeys, goats, sheep, chickens and ducks. Challenge your crew to a round of giant chess or mini golf. Or cool off in the shimmering saltwater pool after a busy day of exploring.
Different room types cater to different groups, with the largest able to comfortably sleep eight.
3. Oneday Estate
Taste small batch wines at Oneday Estate.
Oneday Estate is a must-visit. The winery lets you try small-batch, estate-grown shiraz, pinot noir and riesling. It’s also a vibrant and character-filled Sunday lunch spot.
The on-site eatery and bar hosts weekly Sunday Sessions accompanied by tunes from local musicians, a buzzy atmosphere and flavour-packed food and drink. Order a round of delicious woodfired pizzas with toppings to suit all tastes, alongside a glass of Oneday’s signature wine.
The restaurant is also a sight to behold, an eclectic stone-and-timber hall crafted from recycled materials and 100-year-old relics repurposed from the surrounding region.
4. BIG4 Ingenia Holidays Queenscliff Beacon
Kids will love BIG4 Ingenia Holidays Queenscliff Beacon.
BIG4 holiday parks are renowned for their all-ages appeal, and BIG4 Ingenia Holidays Queenscliff Beacon in the coastal enclave of Queenscliff is no different. The pool and gym are a given, but there’s also a playground, pickleball and basketball courts, a jumbo-sized jump pad, an interactive games arena and an indoor games room equipped with toys, activities and entertainment.
The diverse range of accommodation spans compact studios designed for three guests, all the way up to expansive beach houses accommodating up to 10, providing comfort and flexibility to suit every size of family.
5. Bellarine Railway
Take a journey aboard the Bellarine Railway.
If your entourage includes any locomotive enthusiasts, book a journey aboard the Bellarine Railway . The more than 100-year-old steam train transports you to a bygone era and takes you through the rolling farmland and windswept coastal landscapes that make The Bellarine so beautiful.
The Swan Bay Express is an easy 45-minute ride perfect for younger passengers (and even allows dogs on board), or you could opt for a themed trip. There are seasonal events like the Polar Express (a festive favourite in the lead-up to Christmas), along with the Blues Train (a high-energy experience of live music and dancing) and the Q Train (a roving fine-dining feast celebrating regional produce).
6. The Dunes
Save room for dessert. (Image: Visit Vic)
The Dunes offers the perfect balance of polished and playful, a breezy beachside bar and restaurant that appeals to adults and kids alike.
Feast on moreish snacks, share plates and mains from the Italian-inspired menu, or a selection of San Marzano-topped pizzas fresh from the wood-fired oven. Pair your meal with a classic cocktail, an ice-cold beer or a glass from the generous drinks menu, which brims with local drops. Little ones are well catered for with a line-up of kid-approved meals for breakfast and lunch.
If you’re simply swinging by en route to the family-friendly beach, grab a bite at The Dunes’ beachside kiosk before strolling down for a paddle or surf.
7. Sea All Dolphin Swims
Spot the locals with Sea All Dolphin Swims. (Image: Visit Vic)
The sparkling waters around The Bellarine are home to dolphins, fur seals, little penguins, humpback and southern right whales, plus a flurry of seabirds. Sea All Dolphin Swims lets you see some of these magnificent animals up close aboard one of their small-group vessels.
Head out on a sightseeing tour and spot local wildlife darting around the boat, or dive right in with a swim adventure tour. You’ll be swimming alongside dolphins and seals in their natural habitat – a bucket-list experience you won’t forget fast.
Swimming and snorkelling gear is provided, and guides are trained to ensure a gentle, eco-friendly encounter for both swimmers and sea creatures.
8. Jack Rabbit
Everyone has a menu to enjoy at Jack Rabbit. (Image: Visit Vic)
If your mood leans laid-back, the House of Jack Rabbit is a lovely spot for brunch, lunch or dinner. The cafe serves a produce-driven all-day menu filled with seasonal mains, generous sharing platters and a playful kids menu to suit even the pickiest of eaters.
If you’re after something more elevated, Jack Rabbit Restaurant does plates that change with the seasons and incorporate plenty of local produce. Even younger guests are well catered to, with a considered yet familiar kids’ menu that’s just as vibrant as the grown-up one.
