Mornings shine gold and afternoons stretch long when drifting along the Murray River by houseboat.
Cruising the Murray is one of the best ways to discover this stunning region. (Image: Krista Eppelstun)
The first thing you notice on the Murray is the quiet. Not silence, exactly, but a softness that settles over everything. On our first afternoon onboard Iconic, the houseboat moved so slowly it felt like the river was carrying us rather than the other way around.
From the top deck, the water glimmered dull gold. A few of us slipped straight in, the cold hitting that perfect spot between refreshing and shocking. From above, it must have looked like we were drifting in the middle of nowhere – tiny shapes in a wide, green ribbon of water.
So much of life on the Murray happens in these small, unhurried pockets of time. From the moment we set off from the banks of Victoria’s Mildura for our week-long sailing, we felt ourselves succumb to its gentle pace. There were mornings when I’d step outside with my camera and the whole river would be still; the gum trees reflected with almost impossible precision.
The water glimmered gold as the sunshine flowed in. (Image: Krista Eppelstun)
Gum trees are reflected in the calm river as the mighty Murray unfurls in front of you. (Image: Krista Eppelstun)
Embrace slow living. (Image: Krista Eppelstun)
Enjoy a cold martini on deck. (Image: Krista Eppelstun)
There were afternoons where someone would cast a line from the bow, half hoping for a bite, half enjoying the excuse to sit in the sun without needing to be anywhere. And there were moments that felt almost indulgent in their simplicity, like resting a cold martini on the deck rail while the heat eased over the water.
Inside the boat, the pace slowed even further. Sunlight slanted through the windows. Towels hung from the rails. People wandered between rooms in swimmers and bare feet. There was no rush to do anything. Every day arranged itself around the weather, the water and whatever felt good in the moment. It was the kind of travel where you stop noticing the time because it stops mattering.
The All Seasons fleet journeys through the Murray. (Image: Krista Eppelstun)
The All Seasons fleet journeys through the Murray. (Image: Krista Eppelstun)
What I loved most was how the landscape shaped the days without demanding anything from us. Long, quiet bends. Birds skimming low. Riverbanks that shifted from deep green to red earth with no announcement. Even when we weren’t moving, the scenery was. The river has a personality that reveals itself slowly. You start to tune into it the way you tune into a person you’re travelling with.
Looking back, the images I captured feel like a true reflection of the experience: floating in warm light, swimming in the middle of the river, watching the day rearrange itself through the boat’s windows. Nothing rushed. Nothing forced. Just the simple pleasure of inhabiting a place at a pace that makes sense for it. That’s the quiet magic of the Murray.
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Enjoy the river at your leisure. (Image: Krista Eppelstun)
Weave through the scenic river red gum landscape. (Image: Krista Eppelstun)
Enjoy framed visions of green and gold from floor-to-ceiling windows aboard Iconic. (Image: Krista Eppelstun)
Life onboard the Iconic houseboat is a tranquil way to travel along the Murray River. (Image: Krista Eppelstun)
The Murray is a bird-lover's paradise. (Image: Krista Eppelstun)
Take rest stops to swim and kayak. (Image: Krista Eppelstun)
Bomb off the boat in a happy explosion of sound and water. (Image: Krista Eppelstun)
Contemplate the many moods of the river. (Image: Krista Eppelstun)
A traveller’s checklist
Getting there
Mildura sits on the Murray River in north-west Victoria. It is a two-hour flight from Melbourne/Naarm or Adelaide/Tarntanya, or around six hours by car from Melbourne. Mildura Marina is close to supermarkets and bottle shops, making it easy to stock up before departure.
Playing there
A houseboat holiday makes for a memorable getaway. (Image: Krista Eppelstun)
We travelled with All Seasons Houseboats , one of the most established operators on the Murray. Its fleet ranges from family-friendly vessels to luxury boats with generous living spaces, outdoor decks and rooftop areas. Our boat, Iconic , included multiple bedrooms, a kitchen, a spa on the bottom deck and plenty of room for long, slow days on the water.
What to expect
Life on the river unfolds at its own pace. Expect quiet bends lined with gums, warm swims off the back deck, easy fishing, long lunches, late-afternoon light and consistently changing scenery. No boating licence is required and the staff provide a thorough on-water lesson before you set off.
Winding down in the Yarra Valley, where ‘work from home’ becomes ‘work from wine country’.
Steam from my morning coffee curls gently into the cool valley air, mist-veiled vineyards stretch out in neat rows below me. Magpies warble from trees, and the morning’s quiet carries the soft bleating of lambs from a nearby paddock. Midweek in the Yarra Valley has its own rhythm. It’s slower, quieter, with more empty tables at cafes and cellar doors, and walking trails I can claim all to myself. It’s as if the entire region takes a deep breath once the weekend crowd leaves.
You’ll find walking trails are less crowded during the week. (Image: Visit Victoria)
I haven’t come here for a holiday, but to do a little work somewhere other than my home office, where I spend too much time hunched over my desk. Deadlines still loom, meetings still happen, but with flexible work evolving from ‘work from home’ to ‘work from anywhere’, I’m swapping the view of my front yard to the vineyards.
A quiet afternoon at Yarra Valley Dairy
Wine time at Yarra Valley Dairy, where you can enjoy a toastie or bagel in the cafe. (Image: Visit Victoria)
With the Yarra Valley just over an hour from the CBD, many Melburnians could drive here in their lunch break. I arrive late in the afternoon and am delighted to discover the Yarra Valley Dairy still open. On weekends, I’ve seen queues spilling out the door, but today there’s only one other couple inside. There’s no need to rush to secure a table; instead I browse the little store, shelves stacked with chutneys, spices, artisan biscuits and gorgeous crockery that would look right at home in my kitchen. It’s hard not to buy the lot.
A cheese tasting plate at Yarra Valley Dairy.
I order a coffee and a small cheese platter, though the dairy has a full menu, and choose a wooden table with bentwood chairs by a wide window. The space feels part farm shed, part cosy café: corrugated iron ceiling, walls painted in muted tones and rustic furniture.
Outside, cows meander toward milking sheds. If pressed for time, there’s the option of quick cheese tastings – four samples for five dollars in five minutes – but today, I’m in no rush. I sip slowly, watching a grey sky settle over the paddock. Less than an hour ago I was hunched over my home-office desk, and now my racing mind has slowed to match the valley’s pace.
Checking in for vineyard views at Balgownie Estate
Restaurant 1309 at Balgownie Estate has views across the vines.
As my car rolls to a stop at Balgownie Estate , I’m quietly excited, and curious to see if my plan to work and play comes off. I’ve chosen a suite with a spacious living area and a separate bedroom so I can keep work away from a good night’s sleep. I could have booked a cosy cottage, complete with open fireplace, a comfy couch and a kettle for endless cups of tea, but as I am still here to get some work done, I opt for a place that takes care of everything. Dinner is served in Restaurant 1309, as is breakfast.
Oysters pair perfectly with a crisp white at Restaurant 1309.
On my first evening, instead of the usual walk about my neighbourhood, I stroll through the estate at an unhurried pace. There’s no need to rush – someone else is preparing my dinner after all. The walking trails offer beautiful sunsets, and it seems mobs of kangaroos enjoy the view, too. Many appear, grazing lazily on the hillside.
I wake to the call of birds and, after breakfast, with the mist still lingering over the vineyards, I watch two hot-air balloons silently drift above clouds. Perched on a hill, Balgownie Estate sits above the mist, leaving the valley below veiled white.
Spotting the locals on an evening walk. (Image: Visit Victoria)
Exploring the Yarra Valley on two wheels
Swap your home office for a view of the vineyards. (Image: Visit Victoria/Cormac Hanrahan)
Perhaps because the Yarra Valley is relatively close to where I live, I’ve never considered exploring the area any way other than by car or on foot. And with a fear of heights, a hot-air balloon is firmly off the table. But when I discover I can hop on two wheels from the estate and cycle into Yarra Glen, I quickly realise it’s the perfect way to step away from my laptop and experience a different side of the region.
COG Bike offers pedal-assist e-bikes, and while the bike trail and paths into town aren’t particularly hilly, having an extra bit of ‘oomph’ means I can soak up the surroundings. Those lambs I heard calling early in the morning? I now find them at the paddock fence, sniffing my hands, perhaps hoping for food. Cows idle nearby, and at a fork in the bike path I turn left toward town.
It’s still morning, and the perfect time for a coffee break at The Vallie Store. If it were the afternoon, I’d likely turn right, in the direction of four wineries with cellar doors. The ride is about 15 kilometres return, but don’t let that put you off. Staying off the highway, the route takes you along quiet backroads where you catch glimpses of local life – farmers on tractors, weathered sheds, rows of vines and the kind of peaceful countryside you don’t see from the main road.
A detour to the Dandenong Ranges
The iconic Puffing Billy runs every day except Christmas Day.
The beauty of basing myself in the Yarra Valley is how close everything feels. In barely half an hour I’m in the Dandenong Ranges, swapping vineyards for towering mountain ash and fern-filled gullies. The small villages of Olinda and Sassafras burst with cosy teahouses, antique stores and boutiques selling clothing and handmade body care items.
I’m drawn to RJ Hamer Arboretum – Latin for ‘a place for trees’. Having grown up among tall trees, I’ve always taken comfort in their presence, so this visit feels like a return of sorts. A stroll along the trails offers a choice: wide open views across patchwork paddocks below, or shaded paths that lead you deeper into the quiet hush of the peaceful forest.
The following day, I settle into a quiet corner on the balcony of Paradise Valley Hotel in Clematis and soon hear Puffing Billy’s whistle and steady chuff as the steam train climbs towards town. Puffing Billy is one of Australia’s most beloved steam trains, running through the Dandenong Ranges on a narrow-gauge track. It’s famous for its open carriages where passengers can sit with their legs hanging over the sides as the train chugs through the forest. This is the perfect spot to wave to those on the train.
After my midweek break, I find my inbox still full and my to-do list not in the least shrunken, just shifted from one task to another. But I return to my home office feeling lighter, clearer and with a smug satisfaction I’d stolen back a little time for myself. A midweek wind-down made all the difference.
A traveller’s checklist
Staying there
Balgownie Estate offers everything from cellar door tastings to spa treatments and fine dining – all without leaving the property.
Playing there
Visit the TarraWarra Museum of Art. (Image: Visit Victoria)
Wander through Alowyn Gardens, including a stunning wisteria tunnel, then explore the collection of contemporary artworks at TarraWarra Museum of Art . Cycle the Yarra Valley with COG Bike to visit local wineries and cellar doors.
