Mornings shine gold and afternoons stretch long when drifting along the Murray River by houseboat.
Cruising the Murray is one of the best ways to discover this stunning region. (Image: Krista Eppelstun)
The first thing you notice on the Murray is the quiet. Not silence, exactly, but a softness that settles over everything. On our first afternoon onboard Iconic, the houseboat moved so slowly it felt like the river was carrying us rather than the other way around.
From the top deck, the water glimmered dull gold. A few of us slipped straight in, the cold hitting that perfect spot between refreshing and shocking. From above, it must have looked like we were drifting in the middle of nowhere – tiny shapes in a wide, green ribbon of water.
So much of life on the Murray happens in these small, unhurried pockets of time. From the moment we set off from the banks of Victoria’s Mildura for our week-long sailing, we felt ourselves succumb to its gentle pace. There were mornings when I’d step outside with my camera and the whole river would be still; the gum trees reflected with almost impossible precision.
The water glimmered gold as the sunshine flowed in. (Image: Krista Eppelstun)
Gum trees are reflected in the calm river as the mighty Murray unfurls in front of you. (Image: Krista Eppelstun)
Embrace slow living. (Image: Krista Eppelstun)
Enjoy a cold martini on deck. (Image: Krista Eppelstun)
There were afternoons where someone would cast a line from the bow, half hoping for a bite, half enjoying the excuse to sit in the sun without needing to be anywhere. And there were moments that felt almost indulgent in their simplicity, like resting a cold martini on the deck rail while the heat eased over the water.
Inside the boat, the pace slowed even further. Sunlight slanted through the windows. Towels hung from the rails. People wandered between rooms in swimmers and bare feet. There was no rush to do anything. Every day arranged itself around the weather, the water and whatever felt good in the moment. It was the kind of travel where you stop noticing the time because it stops mattering.
The All Seasons fleet journeys through the Murray. (Image: Krista Eppelstun)
The All Seasons fleet journeys through the Murray. (Image: Krista Eppelstun)
What I loved most was how the landscape shaped the days without demanding anything from us. Long, quiet bends. Birds skimming low. Riverbanks that shifted from deep green to red earth with no announcement. Even when we weren’t moving, the scenery was. The river has a personality that reveals itself slowly. You start to tune into it the way you tune into a person you’re travelling with.
Looking back, the images I captured feel like a true reflection of the experience: floating in warm light, swimming in the middle of the river, watching the day rearrange itself through the boat’s windows. Nothing rushed. Nothing forced. Just the simple pleasure of inhabiting a place at a pace that makes sense for it. That’s the quiet magic of the Murray.
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AI Prompt
Enjoy the river at your leisure. (Image: Krista Eppelstun)
Weave through the scenic river red gum landscape. (Image: Krista Eppelstun)
Enjoy framed visions of green and gold from floor-to-ceiling windows aboard Iconic. (Image: Krista Eppelstun)
Life onboard the Iconic houseboat is a tranquil way to travel along the Murray River. (Image: Krista Eppelstun)
The Murray is a bird-lover's paradise. (Image: Krista Eppelstun)
Take rest stops to swim and kayak. (Image: Krista Eppelstun)
Bomb off the boat in a happy explosion of sound and water. (Image: Krista Eppelstun)
Contemplate the many moods of the river. (Image: Krista Eppelstun)
A traveller’s checklist
Getting there
Mildura sits on the Murray River in north-west Victoria. It is a two-hour flight from Melbourne/Naarm or Adelaide/Tarntanya, or around six hours by car from Melbourne. Mildura Marina is close to supermarkets and bottle shops, making it easy to stock up before departure.
Playing there
A houseboat holiday makes for a memorable getaway. (Image: Krista Eppelstun)
We travelled with All Seasons Houseboats, one of the most established operators on the Murray. Its fleet ranges from family-friendly vessels to luxury boats with generous living spaces, outdoor decks and rooftop areas. Our boat, Iconic, included multiple bedrooms, a kitchen, a spa on the bottom deck and plenty of room for long, slow days on the water.
What to expect
Life on the river unfolds at its own pace. Expect quiet bends lined with gums, warm swims off the back deck, easy fishing, long lunches, late-afternoon light and consistently changing scenery. No boating licence is required and the staff provide a thorough on-water lesson before you set off.
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The Great Ocean Road has captured the hearts of Australians with its astounding scenery since 1932, but going off-course can enrich your experience with untouched nature, foodie delights and charming towns.
It’s a chilly 16 degrees. My husband pulls on a steamer and jogs – as all seasoned surfers do – into the water. We’re at Bells Beach, the legendary break on Victoria’s Surf Coast that’s home to the Rip Curl Pro, the world’s longest-running event in competitive surfing. Each year, over the Easter long weekend, up to 40,000 people descend on the region for the event. Today, though, we have the beach almost to ourselves, and the less-than-favourable temperature doesn’t deter my husband from surfing this famous break.
Bells Beach is known for its epic surf break and is at the start of the Great Ocean Road. (Image: Tourism Australia)
Torquay to Anglesea and Aireys Inlet
The red dome of Split Point Lighthouse in Aireys Inlet. (Image: Tourism Australia)
The nearby surf town of Torquay marks the starting point for the Great Ocean Road. Unfolding our map, which we have marked out with a highlighted route for our children to follow, we set off for lesser-known Anglesea, a chilled-out town 20 minutes south of here. Its wide, sandy beach is a gentler swimming option for our young family. Groms can learn to surf here with Go Ride a Wave, which also runs stand-up paddle boarding on the Anglesea River.
The lighthouse overlooks the Shipwreck Coast. (Image: Tourism Australia)
After a couple of nights in Anglesea, we hit the road again, first stopping at Aireys Inlet. Here we stretch our legs at Split Point Lighthouse, which was made famous by the 1990s television series Round the Twist, before driving under the Memorial Arch that welcomes us, officially, to the Great Ocean Road.
This 243-kilometre coastal road was built by returned First World War servicemen and serves as a permanent memorial to those who fought and died during the war. Carved into rock using hand tools and horse-drawn carts, it was a huge engineering feat and provided much-needed access to isolated coastal communities.
Lorne to Birregurra
Lorne is a delightful beachside stop for lunch and browsing boutique stores. It’s also the gateway to Great Otway National Park, which comprises a varied landscape of old-growth forests, cool-temperate rainforests, heathy woodlands and rugged coast. With the highest rainfall in Victoria, the region is home to many waterfalls – 10 of which are within 10 kilometres of Lorne.
Turning slightly off the main drag, we wind along a gum-shaded road to Erskine Falls. Here, our son leads the way through the hyper-green rainforest and down 200-plus stairs to the cascade that drops 30 metres into a lush fern gully. We hop over large boulders to get closer to the falls, enjoying the entire place to ourselves; it’s worth the return climb.
From Sheoak Falls Picnic Area, there are walking trails to Henderson Falls, Phantom Falls, Won Wondah Falls and Kalimna Falls, some of which follow an old timber tramway from forest-logging days, which only came to an end in 2008.
Erskine Falls is one of many falls within a day trip of Lorne. (Image: Visit Victoria)
You can follow your appetite north to the town of Birregurra, which is part of the Otway Harvest Trail that connects farm gates, markets, wineries, breweries and distilleries. It’s home to three-hatted modern Australian restaurant Brae, helmed by celebrated chef Dan Hunter, set among native gardens and an organic farm, and Otways Distillery, which produces small-batch spirits using local produce and botanicals.
Brae is a three-hatted restaurant in Birregurra. (Image: Tourism Australia)
Apollo Bay to The Otways
Back on track, the cliff-hugging stretch between Lorne and Apollo Bay is breathtaking. At Teddys Lookout, we overlook the winding road ahead and St George River spilling into the ocean. We spend languid days in Apollo Bay, a buzzy seaside town that boasts a three-kilometre-long, crescent-shaped beach with a backdrop of rolling green hills. One evening, as the sun sets, we take the steep 10-minute walk to Marriners Lookout, which affords panoramic views of the ocean, hinterland and town.
A 15-minute drive along the road, Maits Rest is a lush rainforest gully that has been protected since the early 20th century. Wandering along the 800-metre boardwalk, we inspect the delicate moss-covered forest floor and the gnarled roots of 300-year-old myrtle beech trees, then crane our necks to see their canopies, some 50 metres above us. It’s therapy in nature.
Cape Otway to the Twelve Apostles
One of the famous Twelve Apostles, limestone sea stacks that rise from the Southern Ocean. (Image: Ben Savage)
The southernmost tip of Cape Otway is a delightful detour, home to the 1848-built Cape Otway Lightstation, the oldest surviving lighthouse on mainland Australia. We climb the narrow winding staircase to the gallery deck, explore the keepers’ quarters and telegraph station, and enjoy a coffee and some ‘famous’ scones at the charming onsite cafe.
It’s a pinch-me moment to finally see the Twelve Apostles in person. This unmistakable cluster of limestone stacks rising abruptly from the sea were never 12, however. When coined this in the 1890s as a marketing ploy, there were only nine; today, only seven remain after two collapsed in 2005 and 2009. We admire these Aussie icons from the viewing platform, in awe of Mother Nature’s ever-evolving artwork.
The Grotto is another natural attraction within Port Campbell National Park. (Image: Carmen Zammit)
Edging the wild Southern Ocean, this part of the coast – dubbed Shipwreck Coast – is made up of many sea-carved natural wonders including London Bridge, The Grotto and Gibson Steps. After exploring the lookout trails of Loch Ard Gorge/Poombeeyt Kontapool – its English name taken from the site of the 1878 shipwreck – we nestle into the sandy beach encircled by towering sandstone cliffs, as our children splash about on the water’s edge, and soak it all in.
Port Campbell to Timboon
Timboon Fine Ice Cream is part of a regional foodie trail. (Image: C McConville)
Just north of Port Campbell National Park, the region of Timboon is part of the 12 Apostles Food Artisans Trail, filled with purveyors of delicious foodstuffs such as Timboon Fine Ice Cream, Timboon Railway Shed Distillery and Apostle Whey Cheese. As an antidote to the indulgence, the 20-kilometre Poorpa Yanyeen Meerreeng Trail is a self-guided ride or walk between Port Campbell and Timboon through tall forests, over historic bridges and past sparkling lakes and farmland with grazing cattle.
Warrnambool to Port Fairy
A 19th-century building in Warrnambool. (Image: Peter Foster)
In Warrnambool, a town rich in maritime history, we take the four-kilometre Thunder Point Walk that traces the coast. The kids squeal when an echidna shuffles out from beneath the wooden boardwalk, and we stop to admire a seal lazing on a rock at the port.
Further along, the streets of quaint fishing village Port Fairy are lined with 19th-century cottages, old stone churches and Norfolk pines. Follow the historic walking trail to see some of the 60-plus National Trust buildings. Port Fairy is also home to Port Fairy Folk Festival (6-9 March), one of the country’s longest-running music and cultural festivals. You could time your road trip with the event for a fittingly celebratory end to any journey.
The Great Ocean Road can easily be done in three days, but we’ve spent a week on the road. The highlighted line on our now creased and well-worn map doesn’t follow the famous route precisely. It has sprouted branches in many directions, leading us to untouched rainforest and charming rural towns filled with culinary delights, and where we experienced some of our most memorable moments on the Great Ocean Road.
A traveller’s checklist
Staying there
The Oak & Anchor in Port Fairy.
The Monty is a highly anticipated, newly refurbished motel with a chic Palm Springs-inspired aesthetic set across the road from the Anglesea River.Basalt Winery in Port Fairy grows cool-climate wines such as pinot noir and Riesling in rich volcanic soil. Stay among the vines in its tiny home, complete with a kitchen, lounge area and outdoor firepit.
The Oak & Anchor Hotel has been a Port Fairy institution since 1857. Cosy up by the bar in winter or bask in the sunshine of the Lawn Bar in summer. The rooms are beautifully boutique with considered details, such as luxe baths for sinking into post-road trip.
Eating there
The Coast in Anglesea is a modern Australian restaurant focused on local ingredients. Grand Pacific Hotel has been a local landmark in Lorne since 1879 and recently underwent a restoration. It serves a mix of traditional pub and Italian fare alongside ocean views.
Graze is a cosy 40-seat dining room in Apollo Bay with a modern Australian menu complemented by regional wines. Apollo Bay Distillery offers tasting flights, a gin blending masterclass and serves woodfired pizzas.
