Seeing Kati Thanda-Lake Eyre – The Where, When, What and How

The often dry Kati Thanda-Lake Eyre is an outback enigma, famous for its rare and beautiful floodscapes. A scenic flight over Australia’s largest salt lake is near the top of the outback bucket list so here is everything you need to know: where and when to go, how to get there and just what you’ll see on a scenic flight – wet or dry.

The classic Kati Thanda-Lake Eyre scenic flight

A scenic flight in a small plane is the easiest and best way to truly understand the vast expanse of Kati Thanda-Lake Eyre. There are plenty of companies willing to fly you from further afield, but some of the best ‘local’ scenic flight operators include:

• Wrightsair – from William Creek

• Bush Pilots Australia from Marree and Hawker (Flinders Ranges)

• Air Wilpena (Flinders Ranges)

For more of a splash-out, you can always include it on your 10-day, around-Australia air safari itinerary. See: Is this Australia’s Greatest Air Adventure?

What are the chances of seeing the lake in flood?

There is a common myth that Kati Thanda-Lake Eyre is entirely dry except for when the big floods happen, like those of 2010/11. While Kati Thanda has only reached capacity three times in the past century, there is often some water somewhere within the 9690-square-kilometre basin.

In 2010 and 2011 the lake’s depth maxed out at 2.2 metres, enough water to fill up its central areas such as Belt Bay. The last time it was considered ‘full’ was way back in 1974 – at a depth of around six metres.

“Around one in 10 years you can expect the big days," says Trevor Wright, whose company Wrightsair has been taking passengers up over the lake since the early ’90s from the nearby town of William Creek. “You might get a run for a couple of years [of a lot of water] and then go a decade without much. Then it becomes a great, white expanse of reflecting salt as opposed to the magical colours."

All the colours of Lake Eyre (photo: Elise Hassey).

Felicity Brown, chief pilot for Chinta Air, which operates scenic flights from Ceduna and the Flinders Ranges in South Australia, reckons the lake has some water in it about half the time she flies over.

For the lake to truly fill up local rain is important (within 150 to 200 kilometres), but for a big year you also need a torrent from further afield; ideally monsoon rains and perhaps a follow-up cyclone in northern Australia that will get the rivers flowing into Lake Eyre North.

Is it worth flying over when it’s dry?

Yes, yes and yes. It’s an entirely different experience from the intense rainbow of the flooded lake.

“When there’s no water, especially early in the morning or late in the evening, the lake is sort of like Uluru in that it dramatically changes colour," says Trevor Wright. “At certain times of day, with the very soft light, the white underneath turns a bluish colour, like the sea. Then the peninsulas come out, like continents, so it feels like you’re flying across the world."

Green channels, Macumba River, Lake Eyre.

“It’s pretty spectacular at any time," agrees Felicity Brown. “The sheer expanse of the lake is the thing that strikes everyone who flies over it – water or not.

“If it’s dry, you get this glimmering white salt pan stretching out off into the distance or if it’s rained, the water stretches off to the horizon, looking like the inland sea that I’m sure some of the early explorers thought it was."

Highlights – what’s to see?

When the rains and monsoon waters align, the outback in and around Lake Eyre comes to life, attracting fish and birdlife en masse. If you’re lucky, you’ll also catch an eyeful of the famous pink hue off the lake, caused by a micro algae known as dunaliella salina, common in salt water and other pink lakes of Australia.

“The best part of a flight over Lake Eyre is flying over the creeks and the waterways leading into the lake – that’s where you’ll see the most birdlife," says Felicity Brown. “Things like pelicans (in a big year) and all sorts, like banded stilts and wrens, plus plenty of the usual outback birds, like crows and galahs."

One of the most popular routes for scenic flights is to head up the Warburton Groove and Warburton River and come back down the Birdsville Track (you may need to take an extended flight to reach this area, depending on where you take off from). There’s plenty to see on Eyre’s periphery too.

Looking up Warburton Groove (Kati Thanda) Lake Eyre North.

“My highlights are the huge erosion on the dunes at the north end of the lake in the Tirari Desert," says Trevor Wright. “The diversity of coloured sandstone is amazing."

Can I drive to Kati Thanda-Lake Eyre?

Yes. Kati Thanda-Lake Eyre’s two hubs are the tiny towns of Marree (95 kilometres south) and William Creek (60 kilometres south-east), where you can arrange scenic flights.

At William Creek (at the centre of Australia’s largest cattle station, Anna Creek) there is a hotel, garage, restaurant (when it’s busy) and a caravan park with en-suite rooms and camping. It is on the Oodnadatta Track and offers easy access to the lowest point in the lake (and in Australia), which is 15 metres below sea level. William Creek can be accessed via Coober Pedy (170 kilometres) by the unsealed William Creek Road (okay for 2WD when it’s dry).

Marree is more accessible from the Flinders Ranges side, and is the starting point of the Birdsville Track (685 kilometres north of Adelaide). There is accommodation, fuel and, of course, a pub here. It’s possible to drive to Marree from the Flinders only passing a couple of short stretches of gravel.

Silcrete Island, Belt Bay, near the lowest point in Australia (on Lake Eyre). photo: Wrightsair.

Note: Obviously a 4WD is preferable for both these journeys, especially if you want to drive to the lake’s edge (no driving on the lake). The public access routes (pastoral tracks) are suitable for 4WDs only. Plan well ahead if you’re planning a summer trip out this way (fuel, water, food, extra spares etc) because the temperature can head into the 50s (yes, 50s) between November to March.

Strange, strange lake indeed

In the big deserted patch of outback Australia, strange, strange things can happen.

“From time to time you see unidentified flying objects around the lake because you’re in a really remote area," says Trevor Wright. “It gets really dark at night and tends to accentuate anything that’s moving through the area.

“About five or six times a year, in the right weather conditions, you can also get a salt fog over the lake. So up to about 100 metres it’s like being in a thick impenetrable fog, but it’s actually salt. It’s spooky."

When there’s water in the lake, flying over it can bring its own challenges too.

“You have to be really on your guard when it’s overcast and it’s a blanketed dark sky," says Wright. “You can lose your horizon, and the water will blend into the horizon – it’s just one big expanse. You can also lose your depth perception. But you just use your instruments so it’s still safe."

There’s even a Lake Eyre Yacht Club

Bob Backway founded the Lake Eyre Yacht Club (LEYC) in 2000. There are 230 members, from all over Australia, and even one from Texas.

The Marree-based club holds a regatta that can include 100 people, like back in 2010 when “for the first time in 20 years Cooper Creek made it to Lake Eyre," according to Commodore Bob, who says he sails on Eyre in some capacity about every two years.

People first started sailing there in earnest during the big floods of 1974. And when this part of the outback is in flood, the sailors go crazy.

Desert River by Peter Elfes — Desert River from Peter Elfes’ The Green Desert.

“In a good year there are hundreds of other lakes, and a couple of thousand kilometres of temporary rivers, some as big as the Murray, in the desert and it’s sort of a competition to find a new lake and sail in it," says Bob. “You can go out over the horizon so when you run aground you stand up and can’t see anything but water and you have to use your compass to get back."

The facts: Eyre by numbers

• Is 144 kilometres long and 77 kilometres wide (Lake Eyre North). Lake Eyre South is 64 kilometres long east-west and 24 kilometres wide

• Is Australia’s lowest point (15 metres below sea level) and its drainage basin covers 15 per cent of the continent. The two lakes are joined by the 15-kilometre-long Goyder Channel

• Is Australia’s largest salt lake and the 13th largest lake in the world

• Is located in northern South Australia but its catchment area extends to New South Wales, Queensland and the Northern Territory.

• Eyre hosted the 1964 world land-speed record by Sir Donald Campbell, in the Bluebird (710 kilometres per hour).

No matter your interests, you’re bound to find a unique and utterly memorable experience along the mighty Murray River.

Along the Murray River lies a network of towns that are at once intertwined and wildly diverse. Linked by the legendary waterway yet strikingly distinct, each has its own personality, pace and collection of experiences you won’t soon forget.

1. On the river

fishermen on Lake Mulwala — Get out onto the pretty Lake Mulwala. (Credit: Visit Victoria)

A visit to the region wouldn’t be complete without a jaunt on the iconic river. If you’re something of an adventurer, Lake Mulwala – an inlet on the Murray – is perennially popular for all kinds of watersports. Glide among ghost gums on a kayak or stand up paddleboard, or pick up the pace by waterskiing or windsurfing.

For a more relaxed (but no less immersive) river experience, hop on board one of the famed paddle steamers. Departing from Echuca Moama, Swan Hill and Yarrawonga Mulwala, these historic boats provide a nostalgic view of the Murray.

2. First Nations culture

Yindyamarra Sculpture Walk, murray river — Wander the Yindyamarra Sculpture Walk.

The river is a meeting place of ancient cultures, home to over 50 First Nations clans and an integral part of their communities, storytelling and way of life.

To learn more about the Traditional Owners, take yourself on a guided stroll through the Wagirra Trail. Situated in Albury/Wiradjuri country, the trail passes through red gum forest, riverside wetlands and the Yindyamarra Sculpture Walk.

Alternatively, visit the Dharnya Centre in the heart of Barmah National Park on Yorta Yorta country. The centre tells the history and stories of the Yorta Yorta people, offering guided walking tours and cruises.

3. Delicious eats

the Mildura Boat House — Savour a relaxed riverside meal at Mildura Boat House.

For a representative taste of the Murray’s epicurean highlights, a few destinations are well worth your time (and appetite).

Opa in Echuca is a local staple, serving up authentic and bold Greek dishes in lively surrounds. Greek not your thing? The twin towns of Echuca Moama have numerous top-notch drinking and dining spots to choose from and an ever-evolving food scene.

In Albury, the River Deck Cafe is perched right on the river, delivering scenic vistas and a vibrant daytime menu. Expect lemon meringue waffles or Green Goddess smashed avo for breakfast, or a zippy duck salad with Southeast Asian flavours for lunch. For more waterfront dining options, head to Mildura Boathouse . Enjoy iconic views and a modern Australian menu focused on local producers and wines.

4. Hiking and biking trails

two people on bikes at Lake Boga — Discover the Murray Region on two wheels. (Credit: Ewen Bell)

The best ways to experience the Murray’s surrounding landscapes are on foot or by bike. Luckily, plenty of well-marked trails take you through the diverse scenery.

The Mildura Riverfront has a shared path for both walkers and cyclists, connecting the town centre with a string of parks and lookouts. The path lets you take in the entire town and its distinctive terrain at a leisurely pace, and is relatively flat throughout.

For a more challenging experience, head to the Huon Hill Parklands or Nail Can Hill Reserve in Albury Wodonga. Both feature a varied network of bushwalking and mountain biking trails through undulating terrain.

5. Best views along The Murray

swan at wonga wetlands in the murray — Spot the birdlife at Wonga Wetlands. (Credit: Visit Albury Wodonga)

The Murray region is perhaps unsurprisingly a prime destination for epic vistas. The Wonga Wetlands just outside Albury are an aquatic feast for the eyes, a winding web of billabongs and lagoons. Take a stroll through the tranquil landscape and see if you can spot one of the more than 170 bird species living within.

Stop by Moama Beach at sunset to catch the dazzling display. Vivid hues of pink, amber and gold flare against a backdrop of river red gum trees and are reflected in the river’s glassy waters.

Head away from the Murray itself, 15 mins from Albury Wodonga, for stunning mountain views at Lake Hume. Or head to Gunbower National Park, a picturesque place boasting a diverse wonderland of waterbirds, wildlife and aquatic plants.

6. Art and culture

People viewing art at Murray Art Museum. — Immerse yourself in art at the MAMA, Albury. (Tourism Australia)

The region’s diverse mix of galleries, museums and cultural hubs provides a window into its past and present.

One of the most prominent is Murray Art Museum Albury (MAMA), which has a rotating roster of contemporary exhibitions. The Burrajara Gallery is another Albury gem, with a powerful collection of works from local First Nations artists.

There are several smaller museums and galleries scattered across Echuca Moama and Mildura reflecting the artistic depth of the Murray. Popular picks include The Foundry Arts Space and Customs House Gallery in Echuca Moama, and the Arts Centre, Riverfront Gallery and NAP Contemporary in Mildura.

7. Murray Region Events

band on stage at Riverboats Music Festival — Time your trip around one fo the regions live music events. (Credit: Riverboats Music Festival)

Each year, the Murray hosts events as unique and characterful as the region itself.

The Massive Murray Paddle takes place every November, a 415-kilometre, five-day river paddle raising money for local charities. Whether you take part in a canoe, kayak, stand up paddleboard or boat, or watch from the riverbanks, you’ll be in for a memorable experience.

If you’re a music lover, you’re in luck throughout the year. In summer, plan a trip for Riverboats Music Festival . And in the cooler months, head to the Echuca Moama Winter Blues Festival for four days of performances across different venues.

8. Best stays along The Murray

the Cozy Dome at Charm Lodge accommodation — Find unique stays by the river or in the countryside.

Throughout your busy few days of exploring, you’ll need a comfortable spot to rest.

Echuca Moama Riverside Holiday Park is right on the river and has gorgeous views. Pick from riverfront and pet-friendly lagoon cabins, or set up camp at one of the powered sites set among native bush. Or head into the countryside to stay in the quaint glamping or lodge options of Charm Lodge .

Alternatively, treat yourself to a night or two at The Sebel Yarrawonga Silverwoods , which has stylish modern rooms and luxe amenities. There’s a heated infinity pool, day spa and an on-site restaurant doing elevated fare with local produce.

For a quintessential Murray experience, hire a houseboat from one of the many operators in Mildura. Available for weekend and week-long adventures, these well-appointed boats immerse you in the leisurely rhythm and quiet beauty of the Murray River.

Discover what’s new on The Murray at visitthemurray.com.au

Kati Thanda-Lake Eyre – the where, what, when and how