Is a multi-day hike a good way to bond with your child? Megan Arkinstall laces up her nine-year-old son’s shoes and tests it out.
Getting offline and on foot
Nine is a tricky age. At this age, children play and feel big emotions like a younger child but crave the independence and show the assertiveness of an adolescent. As I watch my nine-year-old son Lewis grow and mature, I want to soak up the precious childhood moments before – blink – he’s a teen.
When an invitation came to join a family-friendly walking tour of Bruny Island with Tasmanian Walking Co. , I jumped at the idea. A walk in nature, no distractions, no commitments – just the two of us, offline and on foot. But as the date approached, I began to feel nervous. Will he be able to walk up to 14 kilometres in one day – without complaining? Do I have the right gear to keep him warm and comfortable? Will he get on with the other children? Will he enjoy my company? My mind ticked over endless questions at night. That’s what motherhood does to you.
The warm-up
When we arrive at the meeting point, Daci & Daci Bakers in Hobart, at 7:30am on the first morning, I am so relieved to find another mother and her son of a similar age in hiking boots. Inside the cosy bakery, our guide Robin greets us, and the rest of the group begins to arrive. The group of 10 comprises the 11-year-old boy, two 11-year-old girls, my nine-year-old son, an adult daughter and five mothers, all wishing to spend quality time with their children – no matter their age. Our second guide Blake joins the group, and after a quick introduction we are whisked away on a fast boat down the Derwent River to North Bruny Island.
The wind is icy, so we snuggle up tightly under the fleece ponchos that are provided onboard. Soon after arriving on the island, we begin a 13-kilometre walk to Cape Queen Elizabeth. Reaching the Cape, however, is all dependent on the group’s fitness and children’s willingness (we head off, with high hopes). Thankfully there is no pressure to keep up with the fastest walkers, as the guides bookend the group.
As we watch a black swan in Big Lagoon, we peel off layers and chew on the starchy white ends of Lomandra – a traditional bush food that is high in carbohydrates. The track turns to soft sand before climbing up Mars Bluff, with spectacular ocean views to our right. We stop along the way at a muttonbird rookery to learn about these hardy birds, which migrate some 2500 kilometres to Antarctica to forage for the abundant krill and return here to feed their chicks.
Hitting our stride
As we walk, our group ebbs and flows. The two young girls form an instant friendship, chattering away. At different times Lewis sidles up to the guides for a chat; they entertain him with facts about bush tucker and local wildlife, and he tells them about his recent ninth birthday party and the lizards we have in our backyard.
Around two-and-a-half hours later, we arrive at Cape Queen Elizabeth and are rewarded with spectacular views beyond Adventure Bay and a packed lunch (a delicious homemade vegetable quiche and cookie prepared by Ray of Jetty Café in North Bruny).
The return walk descends into the dunes and onto Miles Beach. By this point Lewis is tired of carrying his pack, so I carry it on my front (and make a note to myself to halve the weight for tomorrow). On the beach, the children clamber up the rocks surrounding a natural archway. There is an albatross at the top with a firm eye on the boys; Robin warns them that the bird is nesting so they retreat quickly. Moving on, we sample sea spinach (nature’s electrolyte), walk through remarkable rock formations carved by the sea, and finally return to our van – elated that our first hike was a success.
Before making way to our camp for the evening, we stop at Great Bay, where Robin wades out into the water – with the assistance of the children – to collect oysters. Blake shucks them for our immediate consumption. Lewis, who has never eaten an oyster before, dubiously slurps one into his mouth before quickly discarding it. I’m impressed with his attempt nonetheless!
Cosy camp
Nestled among eucalypts at the foothills of Mt Mangana on South Bruny, our camp is a welcome haven. We’re quick to embrace the outdoor hot shower, nestled in the bush. Evenings in camp are spent with a drink and a charcuterie board with Bruny Island cheeses on the deck, followed by a restaurant-quality dinner prepared by our guides. Think hook-caught pink ling in saffron white wine cream, char-grilled lamb and seasonal veggies, panko crumbed blue eye and wallaby fillet salad. A delicious Tamar Valley chardonnay becomes the drink of choice for the adults, while the children enjoy lemon sodas.
Oyster-sampling aside, my son isn’t usually adventurous with his food choices. He tries some of the dishes but is also offered simple alternatives such as a cheese pizza and a chicken pasta. Everyone is happily fed, and I am thankful for the generous flexibility (as many other parents would be).
While conversing in the cosy dining tent, warmed by a wood fireplace, we discover that Robin can replicate bird song (his whip bird call is incredible) and Blake entertains us with magic tricks. The children are drawn to their enthusiasm and patience, which are absolutely appreciated by all the parents. While the adults rest their weary muscles, the children play card games and hide ‘n’ seek around the cabins, where they excitedly spot a pademelon with a joey in its pouch. No screens: just nature, imagination and play.
Reaching the peak
I’m thankful for the cosy bed and restful evening when we begin the challenging hike up East Cloudy Head on Day 2. It’s a three-kilometre walk along Cloudy Bay Beach, past nesting shorebird sites, then another three-kilometre climb up a steep track that begins with soft sand. The pretty wildflowers and ocean views are a great distraction.
I had condensed our gear into one backpack for both Lewis and me, which made it a more pleasant walk for both of us. We arrive at the lookout – all still in great spirits – and enjoy sandwiches, hot tea and coffee. Binoculars are passed around to find the orca Lewis is adamant he spotted, but we don’t have any luck.
Four hours after we began the walk, we are back at Cloudy Bay Beach. The group changes into swimsuits for an invigorating dip – except for me, as I am terrible with cold water. Lewis enjoys the swim and emerges shivering but happy.
Green therapy
On our final day, after a breakfast of buttery croissants, I’m reluctant to move from my spot in front of the fire. An hour later, however, I am back into a rhythm, in the middle of the pack as we climb Mt Mangana, the highest point on Bruny Island at 577 metres. The two-kilometre track slithers through temperate rainforest, a cool, moist environment blanketed in moss that is so green and so delicate, I stop several times to inspect its beauty up close.
Robin stops by a purple cheeseberry shrub, which flowers in spring and summer with edible fruits. We taste the small flower; Lewis declares it his favourite of the native foods we’ve tried because it tastes like vanilla.
The group is quieter for much of this walk; the only sound is the crunching of footsteps and occasional birdsong. Perhaps it’s final-day fatigue. Else the calming nature of the rainforest has permeated us. Again, we reach the pinnacle and celebrate with homemade apple and cinnamon cake.
Core memory locked
As we farewell Bruny Island on the fast boat, I put my arm around Lewis and let him know how proud I am. Thirty-two kilometres over three days, up steep tracks and in chilly conditions, is no mean feat for a nine-year-old. Aside from the physical challenge, it was special to watch him chat confidently with the guides, play unstructured games with newfound friends, and get excited about camping (though I had to break the news that this luxury stay was not camping).
My worries, it turns out, were unfounded. It’s a trip firmly locked in my memory bank – and hopefully his, too.
Details
Playing there
The Tasmanian Walking Co runs family-friendly departures of the Bruny Island Long Weekend tour on 6 and 13 January 2027. Prices from $2395 per adult and $2095 per child (minimum age is eight), inclusive of accommodation, private boat between Hobart and Bruny Island, all meals while on tour and national park passes. Family-friendly departures of the Three Capes Long Weekend are set for 12 and 23 January 2027.
Staying there
The night before the tour began, we stayed at the Doubletree by Hilton Hobart , a sleek and comfortable hotel with a great buffet breakfast. It is a convenient 550-metre walk to the meeting point, Daci and Daci.
