The mesmerising story of Hanging Rock explained

Is the film/book Picnic at Hanging Rock real or imagined? Australian Traveller’s rock hound, Kerry van der Jagt, steps back in time to investigate this and other geological questions about the Macedon Ranges enigma.

Short answer: A picnic spot in Victoria where schoolgirls disappeared.

Long answer: Hanging Rock is located around 80km to the north of Melbourne in the Hesket Plains near Mt Macedon. It’s 718m above sea level and 105m above the surrounding plain. It’s also one of the best examples in the world of a volcanic feature known as a mamelon (French for nipple).

It was formed six million years ago (in the Tertiary period) when a stiff type of lava formed a rounded pile of layers on the surface as it was squeezed through a narrow vent in the Earth’s surface.

The type of lava is unique in that it has an extremely high soda content. Over the years the action of rainwater has formed an unusual rock known as solvsbergite (soda trachyte).

The same rock type is also found at the nearby Camel’s Hump at Mt Macedon. The mamelon has been exposed to weathering, which has resulted in the rock formation that can be seen today. These include: Stonehenge, McDonald’s Lookout and The Eagle.

Aerial view of Hanging Rock — Aerial view of the impressive Hanging Rock formation. (Image: Visit Victoria)

Is Picnic at Hanging Rock real or imagined?

Hanging Rock is best known from Joan Lindsay’s narrative, Picnic at Hanging Rock (1967), about the mysterious disappearance of a group of local schoolgirls during an excursion to the Rock on February 14, Valentines Day 1900. And like any decent Australian mystery, the bodies were never found!

The author, in the opening to the first edition, states: “Whether Picnic at Hanging Rock is fact or fiction my readers must decide for themselves." At the time of the incident, organised searches for the three students and their teacher were carried out but only one girl was ever found.

Clearly she’s leaving the mystery open. My take is that the schoolgirls (and Miss McCraw) were crushed under a slab of rock that fell during a mini landslide, or they fell down a deep crevice or chimney. Either way, Hanging Rock is an eerie place and an extraordinary geological formation.

Today it remains a mystery shrouded in tales that flick between folklore and fact. The novel was eventually made into a movie directed by Peter Weir in 1975 and received international acclaim. A new adaption of Lindsay’s novel was turned into a six-part television series, starring Natalie Dormer aired in 2018.

A scene from Peter Weir's film adaption of Picnic at Hanging Rock. (Image: Atlantic/Allstar) — A scene from Peter Weir’s 1975 film adaption of Picnic at Hanging Rock. (Image: Atlantic/Allstar)

Fast facts about Hanging Rock

You probably know: Annual events such as art exhibitions, movie nights under the stars, car shows, concerts, craft markets and family-friendly festivals are held at Hanging Rock.

But did you know: The type of rock, solvsbergite, is extremely unusual and, outside of the Macedon region, is only found in Norway and Sweden.

And did you also know: During filming of Picnic at Hanging Rock, watches and clocks of the cast and crew behaved badly. Some stopped, others ran fast, some slow. In Joan Lindsay’s novel, the watches of the schoolgirls stopped at noon (cue Twilight Zone music).

What else can you do at Hanging Rock Reserve?

Many folks take the relaxed route and set up for the day at one of the many BBQs (they’re free to use) scattered throughout the scenic reserve and simply admire the views of the soaring monoliths. The famous Pinnacle Walk to the summit is a popular activity as is the nocturnal ranger-guided walking tour.

Two women at the Summit of Hanging Rock. — The Pinnacle Walk to the summit. (Image: Visit Victoria)

There are three dedicated walks to enjoy at Hanging Rock: The Pinnacle Trail, Base Walking Trail and the Creek Walking Trail. Each trail showcases the reserve’s distinctive beauty; expect to see granitic boulders, curious mammals, and unique volcanic rock formations. The Pinnacle Trail to the summit is quite the highlight! Note: the pathways are quite wide and people of average fitness will reach the top relatively easily in about an hour.

Kangaroos at Hanging Rock — Curious kangaroos at the base of Hanging Rock. (Image: Visit Victoria)

The ranger-guided Hanging Rock night walking tour offers the opportunity to see gliders, koalas, wallabies and more exploring their natural surroundings. So, if adventuring after dark is your thing, this tailored tour will surely appeal.

This article was originally written by Kerry van der Jagt and updated by Roxanne Williams.

Located just an hour north-west of Melbourne, the largely undiscovered Macedon Ranges quietly pours some of Australia’s finest cool-climate wines and serves up some of Victoria’s best food.

Mention the Macedon Ranges and most people will think of day spas and mineral springs around Daylesford, cosy weekends away in the countryside or the famous Hanging Rock (of enigmatic picnic fame). Or they won’t have heard of the Macedon Ranges at all.

But this cool-climate destination has been inconspicuously building a profile as a high-quality food and wine region and is beginning to draw serious attention from oenophiles and epicureans alike.

The rise of Macedon Ranges wine

liquid gold barrels at Kyneton Ridge Estate Winery — Barrels of liquid gold at Kyneton Ridge Estate Winery. (Image: Chloe Smith Photography)

With elevations ranging from 300 to 800 metres, Macedon Ranges vineyards are among the highest in the country. This altitude, combined with significant day/night temperature swings, makes for a slow ripening season, in turn nurturing wines that embody elegance and structure. Think crisp chardonnays, subtle yet complex pinot noirs and delicate sparkling wines, along with niche varietals, such as gamay and nebbiolo.

Despite the region’s natural advantages – which vary from estate to estate, as each site embodies unique terroir depending on its position in relation to the Great Dividing Range, soil make-up and altitude – the Macedon Ranges has remained something of an insider’s secret. Unlike Victoria’s Yarra Valley or Mornington Peninsula, you won’t find large tour buses here and there’s no mass marketing drawing crowds.

Many of the 40-odd wineries are family-run operations with modest yields, meaning the wineries maintain a personal touch (if you visit a cellar door, you’ll likely chat to the owner or winemaker themselves) and a tight sales circle that often doesn’t go far beyond said cellar door. And that’s part of the charm.

Though wines from the Macedon Ranges are just starting to gain more widespread recognition in Australia, the first vines were planted in the 1860s, with a handful of operators then setting up business in the 1970s and ’80s. The industry surged again in the 1990s and early 2000s with the entry of wineries, such as Mount Towrong, which has an Italian slant in both its wine and food offering, and Curly Flat , now one of the largest estates.

Meet the new generation of local winemakers

the Clydesdale barn at Paramoor. — The Clydesdale barn at Paramoor. (Image: Chloe Smith Photography)

Then, within the last 15 years, a new crop of vignerons like Andrew Wood at Kyneton Ridge Estate , whose vineyard in 2024 was the first in the Macedon Ranges to be certified by Sustainable Winegrowing Australia; Geoff Plahn and Samantha Reid at Paramoor , who have an impressive cellar door with a roaring fire and studded leather couches in an old Clydesdale barn; and Ollie Rapson and Renata Morello at Lyons Will , who rapidly expanded a small vineyard to focus on top-shelf riesling, gamay, pinot noir and chardonnay, have taken ownership of local estates.

Going back to the early days, Llew Knight’s family was one of the pioneers of the 1970s, replacing sheep with vines at Granite Hills when the wool industry dwindled. Knight is proud of the fact that all their wines are made with grapes from their estate, including a light, peppery shiraz (some Macedon wineries purchase fruit from nearby warmer areas, such as Heathcote, particularly to make shiraz) and a European-style grüner veltliner. And, as many other wineries in the region do, he relies on natural acid for balance, rather than an additive, which is often required in warmer regions. “It’s all about understanding and respecting your climate to get the best out of your wines,” he says.

farm animals atKyneton Ridge Estate — Curious residents at Kyneton Ridge Estate. (Image: Chloe Smith Photography)

Throughout the Macedon Ranges, there’s a growing focus on sustainability and natural and low-intervention wines, with producers, such as Brian Martin at Hunter Gatherer making waves in regenerative viticulture. Martin previously worked in senior roles at Australia’s largest sparkling winemaking facility, and now applies that expertise and his own nous to natural, hands‑off, wild-fermented wines, including pét‑nat, riesling and pinot noir. “Wild fermentation brings more complexity,” he says. “Instead of introducing one species of yeast, you can have thousands and they add different characteristics to the wine.”

the vineyard at Kyneton Ridge Estate Winery — The estate’s vineyard, where cool-climate grapes are grown. (Image: Chloe Smith Photography)

Most producers also focus on nurturing their grapes in-field and prune and pick by hand, thus avoiding the introduction of impurities and the need to meddle too much in the winery. “The better the quality of the fruit, the less you have to interfere with the natural winemaking process,” says Wood.

Given the small yields, there’s also little room for error, meaning producers place immense focus on quality. “You’re never going to compete in the middle [in a small region] – you’ve got to aim for the top,” says Curly Flat owner Jeni Kolkka. “Big wineries try to do things as fast as possible, but we’re in no rush,” adds Troy Walsh, owner and winemaker at Attwoods . “We don’t use commercial yeasts; everything is hand-harvested and everything is bottled here, so we bottle only when we’re ready, not when a big truck arrives.” That’s why, when you do see a Macedon Ranges product on a restaurant wine list, it’s usually towards the pointy end.

Come for the wine, stay for the food

pouring sauce onto a dish at Lake HouseDaylesford — Dining at Lake House Daylesford is a treat. (Image: Chloe Smith Photography)

If wine is the quiet achiever of the Macedon Ranges, then food is its not-so-secret weapon. In fact, the area has more hatted restaurants than any other region in Victoria. A pioneer of the area’s gourmet food movement is region cheerleader Alla Wolf-Tasker, culinary icon and founder of Daylesford’s Lake House.

For more than three decades, Wolf-Tasker has championed local producers and helped define what regional fine dining can look like in Australia. Her influence is palpable, not just in the two-hatted Lake House kitchen, but in the broader ethos of the region’s dining scene, as a wave of high-quality restaurants have followed her lead to become true destination diners.

the Midnight Starling restaurant in Kyneton Ridge Estate Winery — The hatted Midnight Starling restaurant is located in Kyneton. (Image: Chloe Smith Photography)

It’s easy to eat well, whether at other hatted restaurants, such as Midnight Starling in the quaint town of Kyneton, or at the wineries themselves, like Le Bouchon at Attwoods, where Walsh is inspired by his time working in France in both his food offering and winemaking.

The beauty of dining and wine touring in the Macedon Ranges is that it feels intimate and unhurried. You’re likely to meet the winemaker, hear about the trials of the latest vintage firsthand, and taste wines that never make it to city shelves. And that’s worth getting out of the city for – even if it is just an hour down the road.

Delicate dishes on the menu at Midnight Starling. (Image: Chloe Smith Photography)

A traveller’s checklist

Staying there

the accommodation at Cleveland Estate, Macedon Ranges — Stay at the Cleveland Estate. (Image: Chloe Smith Photography)

Soak up vineyard views from Cleveland Estate near Lancefield , embrace retro charm at Kyneton Springs Motel or indulge in lakeside luxury at the Lake House .

Eating there

Enjoy a four-course menu at the one-hatted Surly Goat in Hepburn Springs, Japanese-inspired fare at Kuzu in Woodend or unpretentious fine dining at Mount Monument , which also has a sculpture park.

Drinking there

wine tasting at PassingClouds Winery, Macedon Ranges — A tasting at Passing Clouds Winery. (Image: Chloe Smith Photography)

Settle in for a tasting at Boomtown in Castlemaine, sample local drops at the cosy Woodend Cellar & Bar or wine-hop around the many cellar doors, such as Passing Clouds .

the Boomtown Winery and Cellar Bar signage — Boomtown Winery and Cellar Bar. (Image: Chloe Smith Photography)

Playing there

a scenic river in Castlemaine — Idyllic scenes at Castlemaine. (Image: Chloe Smith Photography)

Wander through the seasonal splendour of Forest Glade Gardens , hike to the summit of Hanging Rock, or stroll around the tranquil Sanatorium Lake.

purple flowers hanging from a tree — Purple flowers hanging from a tree. (Image: Chloe Smith Photography)