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The mesmerising story of Hanging Rock explained

Roxanne Andrews Roxanne Andrews
Is the film/book Picnic at Hanging Rock real or imagined? Australian Traveller’s rock hound, Kerry van der Jagt, steps back in time to investigate this and other geological questions about the Macedon Ranges enigma.  

Short answer: A picnic spot in Victoria where schoolgirls disappeared.

Long answer: Hanging Rock is located around 80km to the north of Melbourne in the Hesket Plains near Mt Macedon. It’s 718m above sea level and 105m above the surrounding plain. It’s also one of the best examples in the world of a volcanic feature known as a mamelon (French for nipple).

It was formed six million years ago (in the Tertiary period) when a stiff type of lava formed a rounded pile of layers on the surface as it was squeezed through a narrow vent in the Earth’s surface.

The type of lava is unique in that it has an extremely high soda content. Over the years the action of rainwater has formed an unusual rock known as solvsbergite (soda trachyte).

The same rock type is also found at the nearby Camel’s Hump at Mt Macedon. The mamelon has been exposed to weathering, which has resulted in the rock formation that can be seen today. These include: Stonehenge, McDonald’s Lookout and The Eagle.

Aerial view of Hanging Rock
Aerial view of the impressive Hanging Rock formation. (Image: Visit Victoria)

Is Picnic at Hanging Rock real or imagined?

Hanging Rock is best known from Joan Lindsay’s narrative, Picnic at Hanging Rock (1967), about the mysterious disappearance of a group of local schoolgirls during an excursion to the Rock on February 14, Valentines Day 1900. And like any decent Australian mystery, the bodies were never found!

The author, in the opening to the first edition, states: “Whether Picnic at Hanging Rock is fact or fiction my readers must decide for themselves." At the time of the incident, organised searches for the three students and their teacher were carried out but only one girl was ever found.

Clearly she’s leaving the mystery open. My take is that the schoolgirls (and Miss McCraw) were crushed under a slab of rock that fell during a mini landslide, or they fell down a deep crevice or chimney. Either way, Hanging Rock is an eerie place and an extraordinary geological formation.

Today it remains a mystery shrouded in tales that flick between folklore and fact. The novel was eventually made into a movie directed by Peter Weir in 1975 and received international acclaim. A new adaption of Lindsay’s novel was turned into a six-part television series, starring Natalie Dormer aired in 2018.

A scene from Peter Weir's film adaption of Picnic at Hanging Rock. (Image: Atlantic/Allstar)
A scene from Peter Weir’s 1975 film adaption of Picnic at Hanging Rock. (Image: Atlantic/Allstar)

Need tips, more detail or itinerary ideas tailored to you? Ask AT.

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Fast facts about Hanging Rock

You probably know: Annual events such as art exhibitions, movie nights under the stars, car shows, concerts, craft markets and family-friendly festivals are held at Hanging Rock.

But did you know: The type of rock, solvsbergite, is extremely unusual and, outside of the Macedon region, is only found in Norway and Sweden.

And did you also know: During filming of Picnic at Hanging Rock, watches and clocks of the cast and crew behaved badly. Some stopped, others ran fast, some slow.  In Joan Lindsay’s novel, the watches of the schoolgirls stopped at noon (cue Twilight Zone music).

What else can you do at Hanging Rock Reserve?

Many folks take the relaxed route and set up for the day at one of the many BBQs (they’re free to use) scattered throughout the scenic reserve and simply admire the views of the soaring monoliths. The famous Pinnacle Walk to the summit is a popular activity as is the nocturnal ranger-guided walking tour.

Two women at the Summit of Hanging Rock.
The Pinnacle Walk to the summit. (Image: Visit Victoria)

There are three dedicated walks to enjoy at Hanging Rock: The Pinnacle Trail, Base Walking Trail and the Creek Walking Trail. Each trail showcases the reserve’s distinctive beauty; expect to see granitic boulders, curious mammals, and unique volcanic rock formations. The Pinnacle Trail to the summit is quite the highlight! Note: the pathways are quite wide and people of average fitness will reach the top relatively easily in about an hour.

Kangaroos at Hanging Rock
Curious kangaroos at the base of Hanging Rock. (Image: Visit Victoria)

The ranger-guided Hanging Rock night walking tour offers the opportunity to see gliders, koalas, wallabies and more exploring their natural surroundings. So, if adventuring after dark is your thing, this tailored tour will surely appeal.

This article was originally written by Kerry van der Jagt and updated by Roxanne Williams.

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Roxanne Andrews
Roxanne Andrews is a freelance travel writer and editor based in Yamba, Australia. Topics of expertise include; sports tourism, luxury travel, arts & culture, cuisine & dining, wellness, the adventure sector and all things marine. A professional scribe who occasionally goes gonzo to capture the moment.
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This luxe trawler tour is redefining Victoria’s seafood experience

    Chloe Cann Chloe Cann
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    Victoria’s ‘mussel capital’ is the source of exceptional shellfish used by top chefs far and wide. Step aboard a beautifully refurbished trawler to see how these plump and juicy bivalves are sustainably cultivated.

    A curtain is slowly winched from the placid, teal waters just off Portarlington, like a floating garland beside our boat. The ropes heave with blue mussels, the star attraction of our tour. But as we reach to pluck our own, it’s quickly clear they’re not alone; a mass of weird and wonderful creatures has colonised the ropes, turning them into a living tapestry. ‘Fairy’ oysters, jelly-like sea squirts, and tiny, wriggling skeleton shrimp all inhabit this underwater ecosystem.

    We prize our bivalve bounty from the ropes, and minutes later the mussels arrive split on a platter. The plump orange morsels are served raw, ready to be spritzed with wedges of lemon and a lick of chilli as we gaze out over the bay. They’re briny, tender and faintly sweet. “This wasn’t originally part of the tour,” explains Connie Trathen, who doubles as the boat’s cook, deckhand and guide. “But a chef [who came onboard] wanted to taste the mussels raw first, and it’s now become one of the key features.”

    A humble trawler turned Hamptons-style dreamboat

    inspecting bivalve bounty from the ropes
    Inspecting the bounty. (Image: Visit Victoria/Hannyn Shiggins)

    It’s a crisp, calm winter’s day, and the sun is pouring down upon Valerie, a restored Huon pine workhorse that was first launched in January 1980. In a previous life she trawled the turbulent Bass Strait. These days she takes jaunts into Port Phillip Bay under the helm of Lance Wiffen, a fourth-generation Bellarine farmer, and the owner of Portarlington Mussel Tours. While Lance has been involved in the fishing industry for 30-plus years, the company’s tour boat only debuted in 2023.

    holding Portarlington mussels
    See how these plump and juicy bivalves are sustainably cultivated.

    It took more than three years to transform the former shark trawler into a dreamy, Hamptons-esque vessel, with little expense spared. Think muted green suede banquettes, white-washed walls, Breton-striped bench cushions, hardwood tables, bouquets of homegrown dahlias, and woollen blankets sourced from Waverley Mills, Australia’s oldest working textile mill. It’s intimate, too, welcoming 12 guests at most. And yet there’s nothing pretentious about the experience – just warm, down-to-earth Aussie hospitality.

    As we cruise out, we crack open a bottle of local bubbles and nibble on the most beautifully curated cheese platter, adorned with seashells and grey saltbush picked from the water’s edge that very morning. Australasian gannets soar overhead, and I’m told it’s not uncommon for guests to spot the odd seal, pod of dolphins, or even the occasional little penguin.

    The sustainable secret behind Victoria’s best mussels

    blue mussels off Portarlington
    Blue mussels sourced just off Portarlington.

    Connie and Lance both extol the virtues of mussels. They’re delicious. A lean source of protein and packed with omega-3 fatty acids, vitamin B12, iron, selenium, and zinc. They’re cooked in a flash (Connie steams our fresh harvest with cider and onion jam). And they’re also widely regarded as one of the most sustainable foods in the world.

    Portarlington mussels with lemon and chilli
    Mussels served with lemon and chilli.

    “Aquaculture is [often] seen as destructive, so a lot of our guests are really surprised about how environmentally friendly and sustainable our industry is,” Lance says. “[Our mussels] would filter 1.4 billion litres of water a day,” he adds, explaining how mussels remove excess nitrogen and phosphorus from the water. “And through biomineralisation, we lock carbon into mussel shells.”

    a hand holding a Portarlington mussel
    Mussels are a sustainable food.

    Despite their glowing list of accolades, these molluscs have long been seen as the oysters’ poorer cousins. “It was a really slow start,” explains Lance, who says that in the early days of his career, “you could not sell mussels in Victoria”.

    But word has slowly caught on. Chefs as globally acclaimed as Attica’s Ben Shewry and even René Redzepi of Noma, Denmark, have travelled to these very waters just to try the shellfish at the source, sharing only the highest praise, and using Lance’s mussels in their restaurants.

    guests sampling Portarlington mussels onboard
    Sampling the goods onboard. (Image: Visit Victoria/Hannyn Shiggins)

    According to Lance there’s one obvious reason why the cool depths of Portarlington outshine other locations for mussel farming. “The water quality is second to none,” he says, noting how other regions are frequently rocked by harvest closures due to poor water quality. “We grow, without a doubt, some of the best shellfish in the world.” And with Lance’s bold claims backed up by some of the industry’s greatest names, perhaps it won’t be much longer until more Aussies uncover the appeal of Portarlington’s mussels.