There’s a relaxed vibe in this Murray River country town that keeps people coming back, says Laura Waters. Find out why Echuca landed at no.10 on your list of Top 50 Aussie towns.
There’s a force that lures people to Echuca, and it’s like the pull of the moon. They come as kids, then return with their own families. They come for the sense of calm and connection. That force is the mighty Murray River. At 2508 kilometres, it’s Australia’s longest river and Echuca sits at its closest bend to Melbourne, a 2.5-hour drive south.
A massive port full of paddlesteamers
In the late 1800s, Echuca was Australia’s largest inland port, full of paddlesteamers pootling back and forth along the river. Today a few paddlesteamers still whistle their way along the Murray, anchoring the town in its history and serving as a reminder that life here revolves around the river. People come for the serenity, for watersports, wine, sunny skies (Echuca claims more sunny days than the Gold Coast) and starry nights.
Eating in Echuca
Johnny & Lyle is a favourite for breakfast through lunch, dishing up everything from Buddha bowls to haloumi burgers. The American Hotel , built in 1865, also has great options. Enjoy some fab pub food, a drink on the rooftop bar, or mouth-watering smoked barbecue and rotisserie meats at Harry O’s. Go to Junction Moama for sophisticated food, wine and cocktails.
Check out the American Hotel.
Wineries to visit in Echuca
This is the Perricoota wine region. Arrive at Morrisons Winery by paddlesteamer for a leisurely lunch, or join an e-bike winery tour to St Anne’s Winery with Green Pedal Cycles.
Staying in Echuca
This is houseboat central. Boats range from the simple to luxe with spa baths on deck, accommodating six to 12 people. No special skills are required. Options are many, but try Murray River Houseboats or Magic Murray Houseboats.
On land, CocknBull Boutique Hotel has characterful luxury apartments in the historic port precinct. Bush camping on shaded riverbanks is a popular option here, or you can go for a fully serviced park like Discovery Parks Echuca .
Playing in Echuca
You can’t come here without wandering the streets of the old port precinct, including Echuca Wharf. The Port of Echuca Discovery Centre explains the town’s history as a river trade centre that once processed up to 240 paddlesteamers a year.To ride the river in the way of old, hop aboard with Murray River Paddlestreamers and soak up the serenity, birds and gnarled red gums.
The Murray is a playground for canoeing, waterskiing, SUP and boating (pontoon boats are ideal for floating barbecues). Rent equipment from Echuca Boat and Canoe Hire. And spend a day driving the Echuca Moama Silo Art Trail.
Explore the region via the Echuca Moama Silo Art Trail.
Laura is a Melbourne-based writer, speaker and author with a passion for adventures in the great outdoors. Her memoir ‘Bewildered’, about hiking the length of New Zealand, won Best Travel Book at the 2021 ASTW Awards and she has also penned the popular Ultimate Walks & Hikes Australia.
Slow down and find your rhythm on a Murray River journey through time and place.
Trust is a funny thing. It seems not that long ago that my mother was insisting on pouring the milk into my cereal bowl, because she didn’t trust me not to slosh it over the table, and yet here I am on the Murray River at Mildura in far north-west Victoria, being handed the keys to a very new and very expensive luxury houseboat.
After a crash course in how not to crash, I’m at the wheel of the good ship Elevate – pride of the All Seasons fleet – guiding her upstream past red-ochre cliffs as pelicans glide above the rippled river and kookaburras call from reedy banks. There’s a brief moment of breath-holding while I negotiate a hairpin turn around a jagged reef of skeletal, submerged gum trees, before a cheer rings out and calm descends as the timeless river unfurls in front of us.
The Murray River winding through Yarrawonga. (Image: Rob Blackburn)
Setting sail from Mildura
Home to a large number of bird species, including pelicans. (Image: The Precint Studios)
A journey along the Murray River is never less than magical, and launching from Mildura makes perfect sense. Up here the river is wide and largely empty, giving novice skippers like myself the confidence to nudge the 60-tonne houseboat up to the riverbank where we tie up for the night, without fear of shattering the glass elevator (the boat is fully wheelchair accessible) or spilling our Champagne.
My friends and I spend three days on the water, swimming and fishing, sitting around campfires onshore at night, and basking in air so warm you’d swear you were in the tropics. The simplicity of river life reveals an interesting dichotomy: we feel disconnected from the world but at the same time connected to Country, privileged to be part of something so ancient and special.
Stop one: Echuca
A historic 19th-century paddlesteamer cruises along the Murray River. (Image: Visit Victoria)
The six-hour drive from Melbourne to Mildura (or four hours and 20 minutes from Adelaide) is more than worth it, but you don’t have to travel that far to find fun on the river. Once Australia’s largest inland port, Echuca is the closest point on the Murray to Melbourne (two hours 45 minutes), and you’ll still find a plethora of paddlesteamers tethered to the historic timber wharf, a throwback to the thriving river trade days of the 19th century. The PS Adelaide, built in 1866 and the oldest wooden-hulled paddlesteamer operating in the world, departs daily for one-hour cruises, while a brand-new paddlesteamer, the PS Australian Star, is launching luxury seven-night voyages in December through APT Touring.
The town is also a hot food and wine destination. St Anne’s Winery at the historic Port of Echuca precinct has an incredibly photogenic cellar door, set inside an old carriage builders’ workshop on the wharf and filled with huge, 3000-litre port barrels. The Mill, meanwhile, is a cosy winter spot to sample regional produce as an open fire warms the red-brick walls of this former flour mill.
Stop two: Barmah National Park
Camping riverside in Barmah National Park, listed as a Ramsar site for its significant wetland values. (Image: Visit Victoria/Emily Godfrey)
Just half-an-hour upstream, Barmah National Park is flourishing, its river red gum landscape (the largest in the world) rebounding magnificently after the recent removal of more than 700 feral horses. The internationally significant Ramsar-listed wetland sits in the heart of Yorta Yorta Country, with Traditional Owners managing the environment in close partnership with Parks Victoria. Walkways weave through the forest, crossing creeks lined with rare or threatened plants, passing remnants of Yorta Yorta oven mounds and numerous scar trees, where the bark was removed to build canoes, containers or shields.
The Dharnya Centre (open weekdays until 3pm) is the cultural hub for the Yorta Yorta. Visitors can learn about the ecological significance of the Barmah Lakes on a 90-minute river cruise, led by a First Nations guide, or take a one-hour, guided cultural walking tour along the Yamyabuc Trail.
Stop three: Cobram
Yarrawonga Mulwala Golf Club Resort. (Image: Visit Victoria)
Continue east to Cobram to find the southern hemisphere’s largest inland beach. Swarming with sun-seekers in summer, the white sand of Thompson’s Beach is shaded by majestic river red gums and dotted with hundreds of beach umbrellas, as beachgoers launch all manner of water craft and set up stumps for beach cricket. But the beach is at its most captivating at sunset, when the crowds thin out, the glassy river mirrors the purple sky, and the canopies of the gum trees glow fiery orange.
The region is also home to some fine resorts and indulgent retreats. Yarrawonga Mulwala Golf Club Resort has two riverside championship golf courses, luxury apartments and self-contained villas. While not strictly on the Murray, the historic wine town of Rutherglen is rife with boutique (and unique) accommodation, including an exquisitely renovated red-brick tower in a French provincial-style castle at Mount Ophir Estate. Fans of fortified wines can unravel the mystery of Rutherglen’s ‘Muscat Mile’, meeting the vignerons and master-blenders whose artistry has put the town on the global map for this rich and complex wine style.
Stop four: Albury-Wodonga
First Nations Yindyamarra Sculpture Walk is part of the Wagirra Trail. (Image: Carmen Zammit)
Follow the river far enough upstream and you’ll arrive at the twin border cities of Albury-Wodonga. The Hume Highway thunders through, but serenity can be found along the five-kilometre Yindyamarra Sculpture Walk – part of the Wagirra Trail that meanders through river wetlands just west of Albury in Wiradjuri country. Fifteen sculptures by local First Nations artists line the trail, conveying stories of reconciliation, enduring connection to culture, local Milawa lore and traditional practices. It feels a long way from Mildura, and it is, but the pelicans and kookaburras remind us that it’s the same river, the great conduit that connects our country.
A traveller’s checklist
Staying there
New Mildura motel Kar-rama. (Image: Iain Bond Photo)
Kar-Rama is a brand-new boutique, retro-styled motel in Mildura, with a butterfly-shaped pool and a tropical, Palm Springs vibe. Echuca Holiday Homes has a range of high-end accommodation options, both on the riverfront and in town.
Playing there
Bruce Munro’s Trail of Lights in Mildura. (Image: Imogen Eveson)
Artist Bruce Munro’s Trail of Lights installation, comprising more than 12,000 illuminated ‘fireflies’, is currently lighting up Mildura’s Lock Island in the middle of the Murray. Murray Art Museum Albury (MAMA) is a hub for contemporary art, with a rotating roster of exhibitions, and is a major outlet for young and First Nations artists.
Eating there
Mildura’s diverse demographic means it’s a fantastic place to eat. Andy’s Kitchen is a local favourite, serving up delicious pan-Asian dishes and creative cocktails in a Balinese-style garden setting. Call in to Spoons Riverside in Swan Hill to enjoy locally sourced, seasonal produce in a tranquil setting overlooking the river.
