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8 reasons locals will tell you the Mornington Peninsula is incredible in winter

The Mornington Peninsula might be synonymous with summer, but winter offers equally compelling reasons to visit.

Come winter, the Mornington Peninsula transforms into a relaxing and rejuvenating escape. Think misty trails and dramatic ocean views along the rugged coastline, drinking and dining by crackling firesides, fewer crowds and a more small-town feel – the perfect ingredients for a slow and restorative weekend.

If you want a truly local winter experience, here’s where you need to go.

1. Sample spirits at local distilleries

JimmyRum distillery on the mornington peninsula
Sample small-batch rums and cane spirits at JimmyRum. (Image: Visit Victoria)

No matter your tipple, you’re bound to find a Peninsula distillery to suit. Chief’s Son is beloved by locals and visitors alike for its award-winning range of single malt whiskies. Make sure to try the Black Forge – a heady combination of whisky and coffee.

JimmyRum is the Mornington Peninsula’s first and only craft rum distillery. Enjoy a tasting to sample small-batch rums and cane spirits, or book a table to feast on generous share plates and creative cocktails.

Bass & Flinders is another must-visit, and something of a local icon. It was the Peninsula’s first distillery and remains a favourite for craft gins, brandies and fruity liqueurs. Pick up a bottle (or two) to take home and toast your winter getaway.

2. Warm up in the hot springs

man in pool at Alba Thermal Springs & Spa
Dive into Alba Thermal Springs & Spa.

Locals know winter is the best time to visit the famous hot springs. With the air cool and crisp and the springs reaching temperatures up to 43 degrees, the experience is akin to a warm embrace.

If you’re travelling with kids or want something more laid-back, Peninsula Hot Springs is your best bet. Spanning 42 acres and with an organic vibe, the complex has hillside pools, saunas, bath houses and family-friendly spaces perfect for all ages.

Alba Thermal Springs & Spa is slightly more luxe, with 25 thermal pools amid architectural surrounds. The on-site restaurant, Thyme, is a highlight, featuring seasonal lunch dishes, high teas and picnics, and a beautifully designed interior.

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3. Coastal walks feel more dramatic

Millionaire's Walk in sorrento
Take in gorgeous seaside scenery on Millionaire’s Walk. (Image: Visit Victoria)

The Peninsula is situated between Port Phillip Bay and the wide expanse of the Southern Ocean, giving it front-row access to stunning sea vistas. In winter, and especially on rainy days, the outlook is incredibly dramatic, with waves crashing against the clifftops and a steely hue. The trails hugging the ocean are also much quieter and mostly filled with locals.

Make sure to drop by Cape Schanck Lighthouse on your coastal walk – the lighthouse was built in 1859, making it one of Victoria’s oldest. Climb the stone stairs all the way to the top and take in panoramic, windswept views.

Millionaire’s Walk in Sorrento is another local favourite. This easy 1.5-kilometre coastal trail takes you past gorgeous seaside scenery and some of the grand homes the town is famous for.

4. Sip on world-class pinot noir

green olive winery at red hill on the mornington peninsula
Stop by Red Hill’s cellar doors, like Green Olive. (Image: Visit Victoria)

If you’re a fan of the light-bodied and elegant red, your winter escape should include a stop at one of the Peninsula’s many cellar doors.

The hinterlands around the township of Red Hill are particularly renowned for pinot noir (and chardonnay) thanks to their cool maritime climate and red clay soils. There are more than 50 boutique cellar doors to choose from, where you can sample a selection or do as the locals do: take a bottle back to your accommodation to savour by the fireside.

5. See misty rolling hills from above

Arthurs Seat Eagle on mornington peninsula
Get a bird’s-eye view on Arthurs Seat Eagle. (Image: Visit Victoria)

Peninsula winters bring with them a thick mist and fog, which make for atmospheric and dreamlike scenery. Shroud yourself in the clouds with a gondola ride at Arthurs Seat Eagle. The summit is 305 metres high, giving you a genuine bird’s-eye view of the entire Peninsula region and Port Phillip Bay in their moody and misty glory.

6. Dine beside a roaring fire

table full of dishes at Rare Hare Wine & Food Store
Enjoy food and wine beside a roaring fireplace at Rare Hare Wine & Food Store. (Image: Visit Victoria)

The Peninsula is an essential part of Melbourne’s “food bowl", with 70 per cent of the region a designated Green Wedge zone. It’s little surprise, then, that there are so many opportunities to try its fresh produce. Visit farm gates like Torello Farm, Hawkes Farm and Tully’s Corner to sample the region’s winter harvest: apples, root vegetables, mushrooms and truffles.

Nothing beats a fireside feast in winter, and several local dining venues offer exactly that. Lancemore Lindenderry Red Hill is a two-hatted restaurant with a roaring fire, Crittenden Estate does seasonal dishes and estate wines amid a cosy indoor space, and Rare Hare Wine & Food Store has a double-sided fireplace that anchors the warm and welcoming dining room.

If the sun is out, enjoy a picnic amid the sprawling grounds of Montalto Winery. You’ll kick off with a tasting before heading outdoors to a covered picnic table, where you’ll feast on starters, mains, desserts and more wine.

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7. Go whale watching at Cape Schanck

whales in victoria australia
Look for whales between May and October. (Image: Visit Victoria)

Beyond the spectacular lighthouse views, Cape Schanck is also an excellent place to watch whales migrating through the Bass Strait. Between May and October each year, particularly during June and July, Southern Right and Humpback whales make their way past the area, and can sometimes be spotted just 150 metres from the shoreline. Many locals watch for free from the cape’s boardwalks and viewing platforms, but you can also book a boat tour.

8. Explore Point Nepean National Park

Point Nepean National Park is on the Mornington Peninsula’s tip
Follow over 80 walking and cycling tracks. (Image: Visit Victoria)

Point Nepean National Park is on the Mornington Peninsula’s tip, just outside Portsea. Set right beside the clifftops, it’s wild, windswept and defined by its rugged terrain.

Locals love the national park for its more than 80 walking and cycling tracks, and you’ll often spot them getting a winter workout in. But if you’ve never been here, make sure to discover its rich history.

It forms part of an Indigenous cultural landscape on the lands of the Bunurong People, and holds significance as a site for early settlement and military operations. Numerous historical buildings – including the heritage-listed Quarantine Station – still stand today.

Start planning the ultimate winter escape at visitmorningtonpeninsula.org.

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Gemma Kaczerepa
Gemma is a writer and editor who’s travelled and lived across the globe. After completing a journalism degree at UTS, she explored Europe and worked in various editorial and communications roles in her hometown of Sydney, before landing in Bangkok as the PR manager for a luxury hotel chain. Many years and cities later, including a brief stint in Canberra, she’s a full-time freelancer based in Melbourne. She loves writing about everything her new home – and the rest of Australia and the world – has to offer, but has a particular passion for food, architecture, events and culture.
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This scenic Victorian region is the perfect antidote to city life

    Craig Tansley Craig Tansley

    Video credit: Visit Victoria/Tourism Australia

    The Grampians just might be the ultimate antidote for the metropolis, writes one returning Aussie ready to disconnect from the modern world and reconnect to the Great outdoors.

    There are no kangaroos back in Chicago: they’re all here in the Grampians/Gariwerd. In the heart of the Grampians National Park’s main gateway town, Halls Gap, pods of eastern greys are eating grass beside my parked rental car beneath the stars. Next morning, when I see the backyard of my rented villa on the edge of town for the first time, there are kangaroos feeding beside a slow-moving creek, lined with river red gums.

    Five hundred metres up the road, 50 or so of them are eating by the side of the road in a paddock. I pull over to watch and spot three emus. Yellow-tailed black cockatoos fly overhead towards the tall green mountains just beyond town.

    ‘Kee-ow, keee-oww’… their calls fuse with the maniacal cackle of a kookaburra (or 10). Gawd, how I’ve missed the sound of them. Far above, a wedge-tailed eagle watches, and there you go: the ‘great birds of Australia’ trifecta, all half a kay from the town limits.

    Exchanging city chaos for country calm

    kangaroos near Halls Gap, Grampians National Park
    The park is renowned for its significant diversity of native fauna species. (Image: Visit Victoria/Robert Blackburn)

    I’ve come to the Grampians to disconnect, but the bush offers a connection of its own. This isn’t just any bush, mind you. The Grampians National Park is iconic for many reasons, mostly for its striking sandstone mountains – five ridges run north to south, with abrupt, orange slopes which tumble right into Halls Gap – and for the fact there’s 20,000 years of traditional rock art. Across these mountains there are more than 200 recorded sites to see, created by the Djab Wurrung, Jardwadjali and Gunditjmara peoples. It’s just like our outback… but three hours from Melbourne.

    I’ve come here for a chance at renewal after the chaos of my life in America’s third-largest city, Chicago, where I live for now, at the whim of a relative’s cancer journey. Flying into Melbourne’s airport, it only takes an hour’s drive to feel far away from any concept of suburbia. When I arrive in Halls Gap two hours later, the restaurant I’m eating at clears out entirely by 7:45pm; Chicago already feels a lifetime ago.

    The trails and treasures of the Grampians

    sunrise at Grampians National Park /Gariwerd
    Grampians National Park /Gariwerd covers almost 2000 square kilometres. (Image: Ben Savage)

    Though the national park covers almost 2000 square kilometres, its best-known landmarks are remarkably easy to access. From my carpark here, among the cockatoos and kangaroos on the fringe of Halls Gap, it only takes 60 seconds’ driving time before I’m winding my way up a steep road through rainforest, deep into the mountains.

    Then it’s five minutes more to a carpark that serves as a trailhead for a hike to one of the park’s best vantage points, The Pinnacles. I walk for an hour or so, reacquainting myself with the smells and the sounds of the Aussie bush, before I reach it: a sheer cliff’s edge lookout 500 metres up above Halls Gap.

    walking through a cave, Hollow Mountain
    Overlooking the vast Grampians landscape from Hollow Mountain. (Image: Robert Blackburn)

    There are hikes and there are lookouts and waterfalls all across this part of the park near town. Some are a short stroll from a carpark; others involve long, arduous hikes through forest. The longest is the Grampians Peaks Trail, Victoria’s newest and longest iconic walk, which runs 160 kilometres – the entire length of Grampians National Park.

    Local activities operator Absolute Outdoors shows me glimpses of the trail. The company’s owner, Adrian Manikas, says it’s the best walk he’s done in Australia. He says he’s worked in national parks across the world, but this was the one he wanted to bring his children up in.

    “There’s something about the Grampians,” he says, as he leads me up a path to where there’s wooden platforms for tents, beside a hut looking straight out across western Victoria from a kilometre up in the sky (these are part of the guided hiking options for the trail). “There are things out here that you won’t see anywhere else in Australia.” Last summer, 80 per cent of the park was damaged by bushfire, but Manikas shows me its regrowth, and tells me of the manic effort put in by volunteers from town – with firefighters from all over Australia – to help save Halls Gap.

    wildflowers in Grampians National Park
    Spot wildflowers. (Image: Visit Victoria)

    We drive back down to Halls Gap at dusk to abseil down a mountain under the stars, a few minutes’ walk off the main road into town. We have headlamps, but a full moon is enough to light my way down. It takes blind faith to walk backwards down a mountain into a black void, though the upside is I can’t see the extent of my descent.

    Grampians National Park at sunset
    Grampians National Park at sunset. (Image: Wine Australian)

    The stargazing is ruined by the moon, of course, but you should see how its glow lights up the orange of the sandstone, like in a theme park. When I’m done, I stand on a rocky plateau drinking hot chocolate and listening to the Aussie animals who prefer nighttime. I can see the streets of Halls Gap off in the distance on this Friday night. The restaurants may stay open until 8pm tonight.

    What else is on offer in The Grampians?

    a boat travelling along the Wimmera River inDimboola
    Travelling along the Wimmera River in Dimboola. (Image: Chris McConville)

    You’ll find all sorts of adventures out here – from rock climbing to canoeing to hiking – but there’s more to the Grampians than a couple of thousand square kilometres of trees and mountains. Halls Gap may be known to most people, but what of Pomonal, and Dimboola, and Horsham? Here in the shadow of those big sandstone mountains there are towns and communities most of us don’t know to visit.

    And who knew that the Grampians is home to Victoria’s most underrated wine region? My disconnection this morning comes not in a forest, but in the tasting rooms and winery restaurants of the district. Like Pomonal Estate, barely 10 minutes’ drive east of Halls Gap, where UK-born chef Dean Sibthorp prepares a locally caught barramundi with lentil, pumpkin and finger lime in a restaurant beside the vines at the base of the Grampians. Husband-and-wife team Pep and Adam Atchison tell me stories as they pour their prize wines (shiraz is the hero in these parts).

    dining at Pomonal Estate
    Dine in a restaurant beside vines at Pomonal Estate. (Image: Tourism Australia)

    Three minutes’ drive back down the road, long-time mates Hadyn Black and Darcy Naunton run an eclectic cellar door out of a corrugated iron shed, near downtown Pomonal. The Christmas before last, half the houses in Pomonal burnt down in a bushfire, but these locals are a resilient lot.

    The fires also didn’t stop the construction of the first art centre in Australia dedicated to environmental art in a nature-based precinct a little further down the road (that’s Wama – the National Centre for Environmental Arts), which opened in July. And some of the world’s oldest and rarest grape vines have survived 160 years at Best’s Wines, outside the heritage town of Great Western. There’s plantings here from the year 1868, and there’s wines stored in century-old barrels within 150-year-old tunnels beneath the tasting room. On the other side of town, Seppelt Wines’ roots go back to 1865. They’re both only a 30-minute drive from Halls Gap.

    Salingers of Great Western
    Great Western is a charming heritage town. (Image: Griffin Simm)

    There’s more to explore yet; I drive through tiny historic towns that barely make the map. Still part of the Grampians, they’re as pretty as the mountains behind them: full of late 19th-century/early 20th-century post offices, government offices and bank buildings, converted now to all manner of bric-a-brac stores and cafes.

    The Imaginarium is one, in quirky Dimboola, where I sleep in the manager’s residence of an old National Australia Bank after a gourmet dinner at the local golf club, run by noted chef and teacher, Cat Clarke – a pioneer of modern Indigenous Australian cooking. Just south, I spend an entire afternoon at a winery, Norton Estate Wines, set on rolling calico-coloured hills that make me think of Tuscany, chit-chatting with owners Chris and Sam Spence.

    Being here takes me back two decades, when I lived here for a time. It had all seemed as foreign as if I’d driven to another planet back then (from Sydney/Warrane), but there seemed something inherently and immediately good about this place, like I’d lived here before.

    And it’s the Australian small-town familiarity of the Grampians that offers me connection back to my own country. Even in the better-known Halls Gap, Liz from Kerrie’s Creations knows I like my lattes with soy milk and one sugar. And while I never do get the name of the lady at the local Ampol station, I sure know a lot about her life.

    Kookaburras on a tree
    Kookaburras are one of some 230 bird species. (Image: Darren Donlen)

    You can be a local here in a day; how good is that? In Chicago, I don’t even know who my neighbour is. Though each day at dusk – when the kangaroos gather outside my villa, and the kookaburras and the black cockatoos shout out loud before settling in to sleep – I prefer the quieter connection I get out there in the bush, beneath these orange mountains.

    A traveller’s checklist

    Staying there

    Sleep beside the wildlife on the edge of Halls Gap at Serenity.

    Playing there

    abseiling down Hollow Mountain
    Hollow Mountain is a popular abseiling site.

    Go abseiling under the stars or join a guided hike with Absolute Outdoors. Visit Wama, Australia’s first environmental art centre. Check out Dimboola’s eccentric Imaginarium.

    Eating there

    steak, naan bread and beer at Paper Scissors Rock in Halls Gap
    Paper Scissors Rock in Halls Gap serves a great steak on naan bread.

    Eat world-class cuisine at Pomonal Estate. Dine and stay at much-revered icon Royal Mail Hotel in Dunkeld. The ‘steak on naan’ at Halls Gap brewhouse Paper Scissors Rock, can’t be beat.

    Dunkeld Arboretum in Grampians National Park
    The serene Dunkeld Arboretum.

    For Halls Gap’s best breakfasts head to Livefast Cafe. Sip local wines at Great Western’s historic wineries, Best’s Wines, Seppelt Wines and Norton Estate Wines.

    two glasses of beer at Paper Scissors Rock in Halls Gap
    Sink a cold one at Paper Scissors Rock.