A stay at Sal Salis Ningaloo Reef will ruin all other stays for life

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The true reward of a stay at Sal Salis is a reintroduction to the wonder of nature; leave your phone at home, forget about deadlines and prepare to dive in.

Conservation has been at the heart of Sal Salis Ningaloo Reef , since its inception. Travellers come here to swim with whale sharks, hike the ancient ranges of Cape Range National Park and fall asleep to the sound of waves crashing against the fringing reef.

The operators have always sought to conserve the region’s natural environment through educational and environmentally sound tourism operations. It’s this eco-centric approach that has seen it grow from a few tents scattered across the sand dunes to the luxury safari-style operation it is today.

Sal Salis Ningaloo Reef has prime position on the beachfront
The luxury safari-style campsite holds prime position on the shores of Ningaloo Reef.

Everything about the camp is designed to connect you to the environment and wildlife around you. From the ocean-facing placement of its tents – built to capture the coastal breeze and create a channel for airflow – to its approach to light and noise pollution, allowing you to witness uninterrupted star-speckled skies, and of course its location alongside UNESCO World Heritage-listed Ningaloo Reef with its 500-plus species of fish, coral gardens and megafauna.

The camp is part of the Luxury Lodges of Australia collection, and its ‘experiential style of luxury’ taps into our deep desire for reconnection: to nature and each other. It’s what has kept guests returning year after year and placed it firmly at the top of bucket lists the world over. After three nights at Sal Salis, I can confirm it delivers all this and more. Rarely do I find a stay so unique that I immediately know I’ll return before I’ve left. But Sal Salis is one of those rare finds.

First impressions

I arrive at Sal Salis by guest transfer from Learmonth Airport in Exmouth and the group is quickly bundled into a buggy that winds its way through the sand dunes to deliver us to the lodge – the beating heart of camp life.

It’s here I find the daily included activities scrawled across the chalkboard; normally a combination of a guided snorkelling tour or a hike to nearby Mandu Mandu Gorge or Yardie Creek Gorge (more on that later).

The days activities are on a chalkboard at the Lodge at Sal Salis
The chalkboard is updated each evening with the next day’s activities. (Image: Katie Carlin)

Humpback whales can be seen breaching in the distance, evident from the faint blast of water on the horizon as we’re guided to our wilderness tent, a short walk from the lodge.

Sal Salis wilderness tents

There are 15 wilderness tents at Sal Salis plus one larger Honeymoon tent, each one blends into its surroundings and is positioned in the sand dunes to create a sense of seclusion and privacy. There is no need for devices. No bright lights. No mobile or internet coverage. Just the sounds of the ocean lull you to sleep at night and the butcherbird’s song wakes you in the morning.

The wilderness tent at Sal Salis
Staying in the wilderness tents is a highlight of staying at Sal Salis.

The eco wilderness tents accommodate two adults plus two children aged 10 and above sleeping in swag bedding. Each tent has its own bathroom with corrugated iron walls and a zip-up canvas shade that separates it from the bedroom.

The nature en-suite at Sal Salis
The tent’s en-suite features all the essentials.

At first, it might seem at odds with the luxury price tag; you have no air-conditioning, no daily towel change, no fridge, no power points – just a USB phone charger, a maximum of 20 litres of water per guest per day, timed three-minute showers and a long-drop composting toilet. But there is not one thing I miss; Sal Salis strikes the right balance between essential and non-essential comforts: the bed is a dream to sleep in, the private deck features a hammock and chairs, the nature en-suite is fitted with all the essentials and there is always a cool ocean breeze that rushes through the tent, making air-conditioning superfluous during the months Sal Salis is open for guests (April to early November). Then there is the food and wine.

The hammock on the deck of the wilderness tent at Sal Salis
Spend the afternoon on your deck in a hammock with a drink from the self-service bar.

The food and drink

Meals are served at the long communal tables in the open-air lodge. There’s a 24-hour self-serve bar stocked with wine, beer and spirits from across Western Australia, as well as mixers and non-alcoholic beverages of all kinds, a barista-style espresso coffee machine and tasty snacks lined up in jars for the taking.

Tables are set for dinner at The Lodge
Guests gather at the open-air Lodge for all meals. (Image: Katie Carlin)

I join the other guests each evening for canapes on the deck to watch the sun slip into the ocean and the sky erupts into fiery hues of red and orange before the colour drains from the sky.

Sunset canapes at Sal Salis
Arrive at the Lodge to enjoy sunset canapes before dinner. (Image: Katie Carlin)

The season’s chef whips up five-star dining creations with a menu that wouldn’t be out of place in Sydney’s best restaurants. Breakfast runs the gamut of smashed avocado toast and eggs to acai bowls and banana bread, with mussels or a hearty pumpkin salad for lunch, but it’s dinner that steals the show: a three-course set menu paired with the state’s best wines. Think crab tortellini, crispy pork belly, seared scallops and lamb rump. It’s not long before the combination of wine, food and communal tables coaxes out wild tales from the day’s adventures.

Canapes and cheese boards at Sal Salis
The cheese plates are not to be missed.

Daily activities and experiences at Sal Salis

Days at Sal Salis are all about experiencing the wonders of your surroundings. Depending on the time of year, you’ll be swimming with whale sharks or humpback whales, watching turtles hatch or rising before dawn to explore Cape Range National Park on foot. The team arrange a daily roster of activities to suit the weather and tides that are included in your stay, but certain experiences are offered via local partners and need to be booked in advance.

Swim with whale sharks, Ningaloo Reef
Swim with whale sharks, the gentle giants of the ocean. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)

Hike Cape Range National Park

Ningaloo Reef isn’t the only natural wonderland to explore from Sal Salis, with the campsite also set within Cape Range National Park, there is just as much to experience on land.

This landscape holds one of WA’s most treasured environments as well as being one of great cultural significance for the Baiyungu, Thalanyji and Yinigurdira people. The discovery of Mandu Mandu Creek Rock Shelter, one of the oldest reliable sites of human habitation, uncovered a shell necklace dating back 32,000 years. Marine fossils can also be seen underfoot, and mysterious creatures – like the blind cave eel and blind gudgeon fish – live underground in the unique limestone karst system that was once an ancient reef. Over 90 per cent of these species are found only in this region.

Coral fossil in Cape Range National Park
Fossilised coral can be seen underfoot. (Image: Katie Carlin)

The camp runs two guided tours depending on the conditions. One is a hike to Mandu Mandu Gorge just two kilometres from camp, and the second is Yardie Creek Gorge, located a little further afield. Of course, the daily tours don’t take you into the cave system, but the wildlife and views above ground are just as fascinating.

Mandu Mandu Gorge Walk in Cape Range National Park
Early morning or late afternoon is the best time to start the Mandu Mandu Gorge walk. (Image: Katie Carlin)

I set out with the group just before dawn along the Mandu Mandu Gorge trail, I only have time for one of the two hikes in my three days at camp. The moderately difficult three-kilometre trail traces its way through a stone-filled creek bed, our guide points out several black-flanked rock wallabies perched on the surrounding red-stone cliffs.

The black-flanked rock wallabies in Cape Range National Park
The black-flanked rock wallabies in Cape Range National Park are most active of the morning. (Image: Katie Carlin)

Two emerge from the bushes in front of us and unexpectedly start facing off in what can only be described as part boxing match, part tango with the occasional headlock thrown in. The dance continues for five minutes before one surrenders and slinks back into the bushes out of sight.

The trek through the creek bed is followed by a steep climb to the gorge rim, we spot fossilised coral as we walk and are met with spectacular views of Ningaloo Reef and the surrounding national park at the top.

The black-flanked rock wallabies in Cape Range National Park
A black-flanked rock wallaby perches on the edge of the gorge early in the morning. (Image: Katie Carlin)

If you’re lucky you’ll also spot raptors, spinifex pigeons, greyheaded and brown honeyeaters, pied butcherbirds as well as little corella, rainbow-bee-eater and western bowerbirds, all of which frequent the gorge.

Views of Cape Range National Park and Ningaloo Reef from Mandu Mandu Gorge Walk
Views of Ningaloo Reef and the gorge from above. (Image: Katie Carlin)

Sal Salis runs guided tours first thing in the morning or late afternoon.

Swim with megafauna onboard Live Ningaloo

Whale shark season is over and my expectation of seeing these gentle giants up close is low. We have our sights set on swimming with humpback whales today and I’ve joined a small group tour with Live Ningaloo .

Live Ningaloo is the only operator that offers single-swim small-group wildlife interactions in Exmouth. The award-winning Eco Certified tour operator accommodates 10 guests for whale shark tours and seven guests for humpback tours to ensure minimal disturbance to marine life and a maximised experience for guests.

In water guide snorkels on Ningaloo Reef
The tour also includes time to explore the coral and marine life. (Image: Live Ningaloo/ Justin Bumpstead)

It’s not long into our journey out past the reef when the pilot circling the reef above radios to say she’s spotted a whale shark nearby. Gripping onto the rail as we race towards the sighting; one hand is not enough to keep me steady. An explosion of water appears ahead of us. A humpback whale breaches, a calf half her size follows her lead, spiralling into the air and flopping back down with gusto.

An enthusiastic humpback whale calf at play.
An enthusiastic humpback whale calf at play. (Image: Live Ningaloo/ Justin Bumpstead)

Our skipper reluctantly pulls us away from the humpbacks at play – our turn to swim with the whale shark is fast approaching. There are 15 operators with a licence to run swimming tours on the reef and Live Ningaloo are one of the lucky few.

The tour group gathers at the back of the boat of Live Ningaloo
The small group tour is a highlight of any visit to Ningaloo Reef. (Image: Live Ningaloo/ Justin Bumpstead)

Now in position, four of us slip into the water after our in-water guide, following her lead as she directs us to kick into position. I stick my head underwater at her direction and moments later I see a grey figure start to take shape in the distance. A seven-metre whale shark is now directly in front of me. I start swimming to keep up, its tail effortlessly propelling it through the crystal-clear waters of the reef. I’m mesmerised by the white spots scattered in intricate patterns across its back; shimmering as they catch streaks of sunlight. Our guide signals that our time is up and I reluctantly watch it swim out of view.

Whale shark swim with Live Ningaloo at Ningaloo Reef
The writer swimming with a whale shark. (Image: Live Ningaloo/ Justin Bumpstead)

Whale shark season runs from March to July and humpback season from June to mid-October. Advance bookings for all tours are essential. You can also offset your trip’s carbon emissions for a small fee to support the operator’s sustainable practices and reduce your ecological footprint. Prices start from $750 per person.

Turtle on Ningaloo Reef
Plenty of other marine life are also on show during the tour. (Image: Live Ningaloo/ Justin Bumpstead)

Snorkelling Ningaloo Reef

Grab a snorkel and some fins from camp and walk 50 metres to the beach. There’s no need to catch a boat, the marine life of the fringing reef can be experienced just offshore. You’ll find an array of colourful fish, turtles resting among corals, lagoon rays and harmless reef sharks. If it’s your first time snorkelling the team can arrange a guided drift snorkel. Kayaking and stand-up paddleboards are also available to borrow when the conditions are right or join a guided kayak tour.

The beach is 50 metres from the tents at Sal Salis
The beach is 50 metres from the tents at Sal Salis.

Turtle nesting season

Nesting season for Green Sea Turtles happens between November and March; previously Sal Salis served canapes to guests as they waited for turtles to hatch on the sand just a short walk from the lodge. It’s in moments like this when the true luxury experience of Sal Salis is revealed.

I’m visiting in late September, just in time for mating season at Ningaloo. Hundreds upon hundreds of them gather to mate just offshore at this time of year. If you’re lucky enough to witness this phenomenon, it’s important to keep your distance. If you disturb a female turtle resting on the beach, she’ll return to the water and likely drown.

I follow our guide up the side of a sand dune, the wind blows more fiercely the higher we climb. At the top a perfect crescent-shaped stretch of sand greets turquoise waters filled with hundreds of turtles bobbing in the waves. I soon realise several of them are bobbing in piles of three or four. The females mounted by multiple male turtles at a time. It’s a unique sight to behold, but there’d be no turtle-hatching season without it.

Turtle mating season at Ningaloo Reef
Turtle mating season at Ningaloo Reef is a sight to behold. (Image: Katie Carlin)

Sustainability and conservation

The ethos of the Eco Certified bush camp; its guiding principles of minimal impact and sustainability are reflected in the measures Sal Salis has taken to protect its environment: construction of the camp is above ground level to protect the flora and fauna, power is solar generated, water usage is carefully managed to avoid weed growth, no waste material escapes into the surrounding ecosystem. Every detail has been thought of, even down to the reef-safe sunscreen and toiletries.

The eco-certified Sal Salis
The luxury camp’s operation is guided by principles of minimal impact and sustainability.

The camp operates in partnership with Western Australia’s Parks and Wildlife Service and in addition to the park entry fees, five per cent of its turnover goes towards supporting the conservation work of Western Australia’s Department of Biodiversity, Conservation and Attractions, Parks and Wildlife Service. It’s a glowing example of how your tourism dollar can be put to good use.

Bird life at Sal Salis
A local visits the guests at camp. (Image: Katie Carlin)

Staying there

Eco Certified Sal Salis Ningaloo Reef offers 15 wilderness tents and one honeymoon tent built amongst the sand dunes in Cape Range National Park on the shores of Ningaloo Reef on the Coral Coast of WA. The season runs from mid-March to mid-November and the all-inclusive stay covers all food and drink, activities and snorkel gear, and accommodation. Seasonal rates range from $895 to $1195 per person twin share with a minimum stay of two nights. Children aged 10 and above are welcome from $415 to $545 per night in swag bedding. Special rates are available for longer stays.

Sal Salis Lodge
A stay at Sal Salis is a trip of a lifetime. (Image: Katie Carlin)

Getting there

Sal Salis is located 90 minutes by vehicle from Exmouth. Sal Salis operates scheduled guest transfers are available from Learmonth Airport if organised in advance.

Katie Carlin
Katie Carlin is Australian Traveller's Head of Content and when she’s not travelling or behind her computer, she’s hosting a dinner party (likely cooking an Alison Roman recipe), at brunch, working on extending her running k’s, or has her nose buried in a book. She joined Australian Traveller in 2018 and is responsible for leading the editorial team across print, digital, social, email and native content. Her job is to make sure we create content that connects readers to incredible experiences in Australia and beyond. In addition to sharing her expertise on travel through industry speaking engagements, Katie appears onToday, A Current Affair and various radio segments. With a BA in Communications majoring in Journalism and a career that has spanned roles at Fairfax Media and Are Media writing for titles such as The Sydney Morning Herald, The Age, and various lifestyle brands, she brings a wealth of experience to her role. Her most impactful trip to date has been swimming with whale sharks on Ningaloo Reef. For her next trip she is longing to experience the romance of train travel – hopefully on The Ghan or Indian Pacific.
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Theatre, art and music: Our top picks from this year’s Perth Festival lineup

Credit: Jessia Wyld Photograpghy

    Lynn GailBy Lynn Gail
    Blend the addictive energy of dance, creative cinematic movies, captivating theatre, and energising music during Perth Festival.

    Perth Festival has extraordinary roots. Born as a summer community experiment back in 1953, the brainchild of Professor Fred Alexander, it’s now Australia’s longest-running international art-based festival. From its first event at University of Western Australia, it now spans across Noongar Boodjar country (Perth City) bringing worldclass performances into the hearts of ardent festivalgoers. Hundreds of curtain calls, including numerous free events, are set to linger and leave a lasting impression on those who seek thrills that fill life’s in-between spaces. Featuring unmissable highlights from 6th February to 1st March, we’ve done the legwork for you – here’s what’s on, and where:

    1. East Perth Power Station

    East Perth Power Station during Perth Festival
    See East Perth Power Station come alive. (Image: Jessica Wyld Photography)

    Abandoned, run-down and shutdown in 1981, East Perth Power Station , located on the banks of the stunning Swan River, was reinvented in 2025 as an entertainment venue for the Perth Festival. Pack a picnic, bring the family and kick back under paperbark trees at Casa Musica – a free event featuring a melting pot of world-class musicians from Australian shores and around the globe. The diversity will have you bopping until the final encore.

    A decade after David Bowie’s passing, his powerful music lives on in the electrifying show, Rebel Rebel . Powerhouse vocalists join Perth Symphony Orchestra for one incredible night showcasing the singer-songwriter’s iconic hits. Illuminate your world through the eyes of First Nation Noongar artist, Lance Chadd Tjyllyungoo in a free event. His distinctive paintings and Dreamtime stories decorate the Power Station’s walls depicting spiritual beliefs. Or settle in to watch British indie pop singer-songwriter, Nilüfer Yanya .

    2. St Mary’s Cathedral

    Award-winning vocal group, Roomful of Teeth
    Take in Award-winning vocal group, Roomful of Teeth. (Image: Anja Schutz)

    Step into the lofty ceilings of Perth’s grandest cathedral, St Mary’s, and soak up choral harmonies. Dating back to 1865, the stained-glass reproductions of Leonardo da Vinci’s Last Supper are a talking point, add talented maestros, and the stage is set to enthral.

    The international line-up is impressive. Master Irish fiddler, Martin Hayes takes to the stage with exquisite lyrical compositions from his native land. Åkervinda , an award winning Swedish quartet, weave stories of love, loss, and resilience into harmonious Nordic folk songs. The USA Grammy Award-winning vocal group, Roomful of Teeth , break all the rules. Hear their voices echo through the arched vaulted ceilings.

    3. Lotterywest Films

    guests at Lotterywest Films as part of Perth Festival
    Discover the Lotterywest Films program. (Credit: Jessia Wyld Photograpghy)

    One of the festivals longest-running favourites, Lotterywest Films run a rich tapestry of cinematic features showing until 29th of March. Pack a picnic, cushions, popcorn and pop a cork under a Somerville Pine Tree as the sun sets and screenings begin. Cinema lovers, choose your poison from thrillers, deep-dive documentaries, tearjerkers, raunchy rom-coms and side-splitting comedies. The program is fantastically full, the filmmakers the best in the business, and the outdoor setting, unequalled.

    4. The Embassy

    guests at The EMbassy as part of Perth Festival
    Step into the old world glitz of The Embassy. (Image: Franz Bato)

    Modelled on Perth’s historic Embassy Ballroom, a devilish dance venue that operated in the 1900s, The Embassy in Perth Town Hall , serves sophistication in its A-list shows. Set your sequins a’sparkle at the, What’s TINA Got to Do With It extravaganza where guest artists play tribute as they belt out the glitzy star’s hits. The returning act, Ali Bodycoat & The Embassy Big Band, will have you jiving as you take to the dance floor reimagining a bygone era. Who doesn’t like chocolate? Black-bearded drag sensation, La Gateau Chocolat puts the raw in cacao. World-renowned for his feisty range of storied songs, he reveals the inner-man come artist through his deliciously sweet and intimate act.

    5. Unusual locations

    still from The Trial theatre
    Watch a star-studded cast in The Trial. (Image: Cole Baxter)

    We’ve all heard of the hit show, The Office, but a spinetingling operatic thriller acted out in disused office space? Philip Glass’ nail-biter, The Trial , has a star-studded line-up. Together they deliver a dramatic ordeal showcasing Oscar-winner Christopher Hampton’s libretto; the suspense lingers after the final bow.

    Sit back under starry skies and soak up dynamic dance at Ballet at the Quarry: Incandescence .  Four exclusive classical and contemporary acts illuminate the amphitheatre’s stage as Perth City twinkles at nightfall. Mystery excites the mind. West Australian Opera returns again with another ‘secret opera’. Be led from an undisclosed meeting point and let the music lead to the secret.

    6. A View From A Bridge

    A View From A Bridge special event at Perth Festival
    Share your innermost thoughts at A View From A Bridge.

    Free, connecting strangers, and inclusive to everyone, artist, Joe Bloom’s collaborative project, A View From A Bridge has one prop – an old red telephone. Talk into the receiver , share thoughts, innermost feelings, memories, hopes and dreams as Bloom captures you from afar. The freedom to speak through the telephone movement has a worldwide following. A range of clips will be shown online.

    What else to do in Perth

    Shadow Wine Bar in perth
    Taste the best of Perth at eateries like Shadow Wine Bar.

    Endless blue skies crown Perth during February, making it the perfect time to explore Australia’s most western capital city. The city might be compact, but it packs a punch when it comes to what’s on. Perth Cultural Centre houses the city’s art-scene venues: Western Australian Art Gallery, WA Museum Boola Bardip and Perth Institute of Contemporary Arts (PICA).

    After exploring the city’s alleyways, hidden corners, and main hub, savour worldclass food in Perth’s vibrant eateries. Award-winning restaurants, rooftop bars, and cafes can be found throughout; the leisurely eat-and-drink scene is literally mouthwatering, so book extra nights.

    Start planing your 2026 trip to Perth Festival at perthfestival.com.au .