WA locals: Felicity Palmateer, professional big wave surfer & artist

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Professional big wave surfer and artist, Felicity ‘Flick’ Palmateer talks about art, community, and her soon-to-be-released documentary, Dancing on Water.

How did you get into surfing?

I was a beach baby and Dad got me into surfing at the age of about six. I have two younger brothers, and Dad wanted them to surf and I looked at him pushing them onto waves and thought, ‘I want to do that’. So I grabbed a bodyboard and he looked down the beach and saw me standing up on a bodyboard and thought, ‘Oh I better teach her, too’. I was instantly obsessed and wanted a wetsuit. He said, ‘You can’t have a wetsuit until you surf every day before school for a week.’ So I did. And I fell even more in love with the ocean.

Aerial shot of Western Australia
“Mum and Dad gave us a great appreciation of all the wild places around WA." (Image: Tourism Western Australia)

What do you love about WA?

It’s a different kind of beautiful. It’s rugged. It’s wild. Mum and Dad gave us a great appreciation of all the wild places around WA. I lived on the East Coast for a while, in Sydney and Burleigh Heads. But WA is home. Being a surfer, I have such a great relationship to the coastline in WA. From the pure white sands of Esperance to the red-soil rugged country of Australia’s North West where the desert meets the ocean. The contrast between the pindan soils and the blue of the ocean and sky is incredible.

Felicity Flick Palmateer
“The coastline and landscape have definitely shaped me. I’m a bit rugged, a bit wild and a bit raw. What you see is what you get." (Image: Jennifer Stenglein)

How did your childhood in WA shape you?

Everyone is a product of their environment. The coastline and landscape have definitely shaped me. I’m a bit rugged, a bit wild and a bit raw. What you see is what you get. There is a different energy here and a lot of it has to do with the people.

What can audiences expect from the soon-to-be-released documentary, Dancing on Water, made about the bond you and your dad share?

We have been through a lot as a family in recent years. I lost my mum last year, and my dad was recently diagnosed with leukaemia and the two of us use the ocean as our therapy. My partner and I are building a place in Margaret River but I’m currently living in Perth to be near to Dad. I have so many good memories of Dad and I driving down to Margaret River in his old blue Land Rover Defender while he was blasting Rage Against the Machine, AC/DC, Audioslave.

Waters of WA
I learned to surf in Margaret River and I feel like it’s home because I know everyone. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)

You travel to exotic surf destinations all around the world, but what keeps you tied to Margaret River?

Part of it has to do with how pristine and diverse it is. But it’s also the community. I learned to surf in Margaret River and I feel like it’s home because I know everyone. There are like-minded people, amazing surf breaks, incredible produce and great wineries.

You have a weekend off, where do you go?

I would go to Rotto. It’s just a 20-minute ferry ride away and it’s stunning. Esperance is also beautiful.

Surfing in WA
“That once-in-a-decade swell saw me go from competing as a shortboard surfer to becoming a big-wave surfer." (Image: Richard Hallman)

You recently broke the record for the biggest wave surfed by an Australian female. How stoked were you?

The person who held that record previously was Layne Beachley and Layne was my idol. The wave was 25 feet, the equivalent of a three- or four-storey building. That once-in-a-decade swell saw me go from competing as a shortboard surfer to becoming a big-wave surfer. Footage of me surfing those waves went around the world. The Margaret River coastline is renowned for having powerful surf. We get bigger swells in the Indian Ocean so it’s the perfect training ground for me.

What inspires your art?

The ocean inspires my art. My dad is a ceramicist and I dabble in watercolours and inks and even audio-visual art. The ocean is at the heart of everything I do.

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6 reasons the best way to experience the Kimberley is by cruise

    Kate Bettes Kate Bettes
    This remote corner of Australia is one of the world’s last frontiers. This is how to see it properly.

    Vast, rugged and deeply spiritual, the Kimberley coast in Australia’s North West feels a world away from everyday Australia – and there are countless ways to explore it. But if you want to reach ancient rock art, hidden gorges and lonely waterfalls, it has to be by boat. Whether you’re aboard a nimble expedition vessel or a luxury yacht with all the trimmings, exploring by the water brings exclusive experiences, shows unique views and makes travel easier than any other mode. And that’s just the beginning of Australia’s North West cruises.

    The True North Adventure Cruise in between sandstone cliffs.
    Adventure starts where the road ends.

    1. Discover Broome, and beyond

    Explore your launchpad before you set sail: Broome. Here camels and their riders stride along the 22 kilometres of powdery Cable Beach at sunset. That’s just the start.

    At Gantheaume Point, red pindan cliffs plunge into the turquoise sea, whose low tide uncovers fossilised dinosaur footprints. Broome’s pearling history runs deep. Japanese, Chinese, Malay and Aboriginal divers once worked these waters, and their legacy lives on in boutiques where South Sea pearls still shine.

    If the moon’s right, you may catch the Staircase to the Moon over Roebuck Bay. Or simply kick back with a cold beverage and a film under the stars at Sun Pictures , screening since 1916.

    Ride a camel along Cable Beach as the sun sinks into the Indian Ocean, casting golden light across the sand and sea.
    Ride a camel along Cable Beach. (Image: Nick Dunn)

    2. Unmatched access to The Kimberley

    Once you’re onboard, expect a backstage pass to some of the most isolated places on Earth. No roads. No ports. No phone reception.

    At Horizontal Falls/ Garaanngaddim, 10-metre tides surge through twin gorges like a natural waterpark ride that’ll make your palms sweat. Then there’s Montgomery Reef/ Yowjab: a giant living platform of coral and seagrass, where the sea pulls back to reveal waterfalls, sea turtles and ospreys.

    Up north, King George Falls/ Oomari rage 80 metres down red cliffs. Zodiac boats often nudge in closer so you can feel the spray on your sun-warmed cheeks. You might even fly in to reach Mitchell Falls/ Punamii-unpuu, a four-tiered cascade where you can swim in freshwater pools above the drop.

    Come spring, some itineraries veer west to Rowley Shoals: an atoll chain of white sand and reef walls. Then it’s up the winding Prince Regent River to King Cascade/ Maamboolbadda, tumbling over rock terraces, and into a Zodiac to view the Gwion Gwion rock art, whose slender, ochre-painted figures are older than the pyramids.

    A cruise drifts beneath King George Falls, where sheer sandstone cliffs frame the thunderous plunge into turquoise waters.
    Get closer to the Kimberley than ever before.

    3. Taste the Kimberley with onboard hospitality

    You might spend your days clambering over slippery rocks or charging past waterfalls. But when you’re back on the water, it’s a different story. Meals are chef-prepared and regionally inspired: grilled barramundi, pearl meat sashimi, mango tarts, and bush tomato chutney. One night it’s barefoot beach barbecues with your shipmates; the next, alfresco dining on the ship.

    Small expedition ships each have their own personality, but many carry just 12 to 36 guests, making being out on the water a whole other experience. You might sink into a spa on the foredeck or sip coffee in a lounge while watching crocodiles cruise by. It’s choose-your-own-relaxation, Kimberley style.

    4. Expert-led excursions through the Kimberley

    These voyages are led by people who know the Kimberley like the back of their sunburnt hand. Attenborough-esque naturalists might gently tap your shoulder to point out rare birds or tell the story beneath a slab of rock. Historians can explain exactly how that rusted World War II relic came to rest here.

    If your ship has a helipad, you might chopper straight to a waterfall-fed swimming hole. If not, you’ll still be hopping ashore for that wet landing at a secret creek.

    Then come the evenings: songlines shared by Traditional Owners under the stars, or astronomy sessions that link what’s overhead with what’s underfoot and what’s within.

    A small group glides through Kimberley’s rugged coastline by boat, passing ancient cliffs.
    Explore with naturalists and historians by your side.

    5. Relax in luxurious lodgings

    Just because you’re off-grid doesn’t mean you have to rough it. These Kimberley vessels are small in size, but mighty in luxury. True North’s ships come with their own helicopters and a no-sea-days policy, so you’re always in the thick of it. Try the luxurious offerings from Ocean Dream Charters for exploration in style. Kimberley Quest offers a fast boat for easy, off-ship adventures. On the larger end of the scale, Coral Expeditions has open-deck bars and curated wine cellars. And then there’s Ponant’s luxury yachts sleek and incredibly stylish French sailing yachts.

    A helicopter soars above the sea, with a sleek cruise ship gliding in the distance.
    See the Kimberley from sky to shore.

    6. The adventure continues with pre- and post-cruise experiences

    You’ve already come this far – so, why not go further? Broome makes it easy to ease in before you board, or wind down when your voyage ends, and there is no reason to stop there.

    Head an hour and a half south to Eco Beach to stay off-grid and off the clock. Join a Yawuru guide for a mangrove walk or ocean forage. Dive even deeper into Broome’s pearling past at Willie Creek or Cygnet Bay, where divers and craftspeople still pull the seawater-slicked gems from the deep.

    If you’re still craving adventure, it’s time to go further. Soar over the Buccaneer Archipelago, or detour inland with a 4WD trip along the Gibb River Road. Book a scenic flight over the Bungle Bungles. Or – because you never know when you’ll be back – do all three.

    aerial of people walking on eco beach in the kimberley western australia
    Stay off grid at Eco Beach. (Image: Tourism WA)

    Find out more about your trip to Australia’s North West at australiasnorthwest.com .