From Laid-Back To Luxury: Exploring The Kimberley Two Ways

The Kimberley’s red landscape is iconic, but its true colours run deeper than the eye can see. From a croc cruise to wild bush luxury and cultural ceremony, the region reveals its many layers.

I’m swimming in the vast, cool waters of Lake Argyle, surrounded by domes of rock glowing that unmistakable shade of Kimberley red. This is Australia’s second largest man-made reservoir – and home to some 30,000 freshwater crocodiles. There’s a sudden splash in the water near me.

And then it surfaces: an ice-cold tinny of XXXX Gold, slung my way by skipper ‘Big Scotty’ from the stern of The Kimberley Durack. “This is Australia’s best swim-up bar," he jokes. But with the sparkling expanse of water fringed by heaving, ancient rock formations, it’s hard to disagree.

A croc-spotting cruise around Lake Argyle

swimming in Lake Argyle — Cooling off with a tinny in Lake Argyle. (Image: Tourism Australia)

I’m cruising Lake Argyle with Big Scotty and Captain Jack Furzer, learning about the geology and wildlife of this ancient landscape. “It’s among the most geologically complex on Earth," Jack tells us. “The oldest rocks here are 2 billion years old."

We’ve moored for a swim and, despite the city-sized population of resident crocs, Captain Jack has assured us that the water is safe. The freshies, he says, are timid by nature. He would know: Jack has spent years sailing these parts, and even recognises a few crocs by name.

Captain Jack Furzer, Lake Argyle — Cruising Lake Argyle with Captain Jack Furzer. (Image: Miles Brotherson)

“That’s Cheech," he’d said earlier, pointing to a sunbaking crocodilian as The Kimberley Durack pootled around the wetlands. “He’s got a girlfriend, Chong, but she’s not here right now." When I ask how he can tell them apart, he grins. “It’s all in their personality."

cruising Lake Argyle onboard The Kimberley Durack — Exploring the lake onboard The Kimberley Durack. (Image: Miles Brotherson)

We can only cover a fraction of this Hong Kong-sized lake, but we still see plenty: agile rock wallabies bounding down the cliff face, buzzards circling overhead, mighty sandstone formations so fluid-like, it seems as if they’re spilling into the lake itself.

rock wallabies by the river, Kimberley — Spot rock wallabies. (Image: Tourism Australia)

Checking into Lake Argyle’s only accommodation

an aerial view of Discovery Resorts - LakeArgyle — Discovery Resorts – Lake Argyle sits atop a cliff overlooking the lake. (Image: Miles Brotherson)

There’s only one accommodation option in this remote yet spectacular reach of the Kimberley. Perched on a cliff overlooking the lake, Discovery Resorts – Lake Argyle is a hub for caravanners and road trippers. But this is no ordinary holiday park. For a start, it’s got an infinity pool often named the country’s most beautiful.

view from the infinity pool at Discovery Resorts - Lake Argyle — The view from the infinity pool at Discovery Resorts – Lake Argyle is considered one of the most beautiful pool vistas in the country. (Image: Miles Brotherson)

Sidling up to the pool’s rim, I flutter my legs and gaze out at the sweeping view of the lake, topaz now, although it seems to change colour throughout the day like a giant mood ring. The vista from my lakeview cabin, one of the resort’s premium options, is even better. I’d checked in just in time to settle into my private balcony and watch an orange moon rise above the cliffs like a sunset in reverse.

the balcony Deluxe Lakeview cabin at Discovery Resorts - Lake Argyle — The park’s Deluxe Lakeview cabins have expansive balconies to take it all in.

El Questro: Australia’s most remote luxury stay

Travelling west from Lake Argyle, the Kimberley’s landscape continues to reveal itself, like origami unfolding. The roads are flanked by curious, stumpy boab trees, native to this part of Australia. They’re the only species of baobab found outside Africa: a strange, tuber-like relic of ancient Gondwanaland.

aerial view of the El Questro Homestead, Kimberley — Spy salties from your cabin at El Questro Homestead. (Image: Delaware North Companies)

I’m headed for El Questro Homestead, one of the country’s most luxurious wilderness lodges. It’s secluded within El Questro wilderness park, a 165,000-hectare former cattle station that was officially returned to its Traditional Owners in 2022. On arrival, lemongrass-infused cold towels and Champagne set the tone. Here, the remoteness makes the comforts feel all the more extravagant.

the Chamberlain Suite Bedroom interior, El Questro Homestead — The luxury lodge’s station-chic interior. (Image: Miles Brotherson)

The Homestead is perched atop a gorge overlooking the Chamberlain River, where guests can keep watch for salties gliding through the malachite-green water from the comfort of their suite or by the poolside. The interiors sing with station-chic decor: all toffee leathers, cowhide rugs and exposed timber beams that nod to its pastoral past. The heart of El Questro Homestead is the lounge, where guests gather each evening for sundowners and elegant, fine dining beneath the stars. But the highlight lies in the Homestead’s all-inclusive activities calendar.

a private tub with view of the Chamberlain River, El Questro Homestead — Take in the view of the Chamberlain River from your private tub. (Image: Miles Brotherson)

Each afternoon, guests can embark on an after-hours visit to Zebedee Springs when it’s closed to the public. We cross the colour wheel as we hike in, swapping the Kimberley’s burnt-orange for a Jurassic-green jungle of prehistoric ferns.

The Zebedee Springs, El Questro — The palm-shaded Zebedee Springs. (Image: Tourism Australia)

The hot springs seep from a fault line deep beneath the Earth’s skin, the water so pure and clear it looks invisible. I sit under a small waterfall, letting the warm water massage my back: it’s a sense of serenity that no spa could replicate.

view of the wilderness park at El Questro Homestead — El Questro Homestead is secluded within the wilderness park. (Image: Miles Brotherson)

Another morning sees us tackling the park’s rugged 4WD tracks with ranger Gab Murphy, powering through epic river crossings and gunning it up hills to breathtaking lookout points. Gab points out features in the landscape, like an ancient boab tree so massive it would take more than 20 people to encircle it. But the most compelling excursions are the ones with the Ngarinyin Traditional Owners.

The Kimberley’s new Indigenous tourism experience

cruising the Chamberlain River — A cruise of the Chamberlain River is included in a stay at The Homestead. (Image: Miles Brotherson)

Standing atop a gorge overlooking the Chamberlain River, eyes closed, I hear the hypnotic murmur of a didgeridoo and the crackle of fire. Eucalyptus smoke perfumes the evening air like incense, and I feel the warmth of two hands pressing against my shoulders. “This is so your joints can be strong, to help you stand tall and proud," whispers Mary O’Reeri, a Nyul Nyul woman from the Kimberley. She releases her grip, warms her palms over the fire, and transfers the heat to my jaw, cradling my face gently.

The Munbala Cruise, Kimberley — The Munbala Cruise takes guests into sacred sites with the Traditional Owners. (Image: Miles Brotherson)

“Your voice matters," she whispers. “Use it to speak up for injustice, to be a voice for those who don’t have one". A final time, Mary cups heat from the flames and presses it to my sternum. “This is your ngiadi," she says softly. “It’s an ancient pathfinder, your deep intuition, your own personal GPS. Connect with it. Learn the beauty of who you are." When she lifts her hand, something more ineffable than warmth lingers on my skin. Mary invites me to step into the smoke billowing from the fire and let it cleanse me. I move about the haze, allowing the tendrils of smoke to swirl around me, healing my spirit as the sun dances on the river like a million golden blinks.

a Nyul Nyul woman conducting a smoke cleansing ceremony — A smoke cleansing ceremony with the Ngarinyin Traditional Owners. (Image: Miles Brotherson)

This is Injiid Marlabu Calls Us, a new addition to El Questro Homestead’s activities calendar. With a vision to deepen visitors’ connection to place, this heartfelt welcome onto Wanjina Wunggurr Country is run by Mary, her husband, Ngarinyin Traditional Owner Nelson O’Reeri, and their daughter Shonelle. This smoke cleansing ceremony, or Bijagoon, is an ancient ritual, passed down by Nelson’s grandmother Injiid, who learned it from her grandmother before her. Injiid is the namesake and inspiration behind the tour, a “mother of all mothers" who was one of the first generations to make contact with the region’s first explorers.

Learning about culture and history on Country

Shonelle, Mary and Nelson O’Reeri. (Image: Miles Brotherson)

This tour isn’t only about healing, it’s about learning, too. About the bush foods and medicines, a pantry and pharmacy to the Traditional Owners who know Country. About the extraordinary yet difficult life of Injiid. And about dark truths – the lasting damage left by the trauma of Australia’s colonial past.

“The Kimberley has one of the highest suicide rates in the world," Nelson tells us. “Every single Aboriginal family here has been impacted." He begins to pluck an acoustic guitar as the family gather round to sing a tribute to relatives they’ve lost. When Nelson sets his guitar down, nobody speaks. Silence and sorrow hang thick in the air like humidity in the wet season. “For us to heal, we have to talk about it," Nelson says.

And so we listen, as the O’Reeri family share not just the beauty of Ngarinyin culture, but the unflinching truths of the challenges their community continues to face. “Our children’s ngiadi is broken, they feel like they don’t belong," Mary says. “We’ve got solutions, we’ve got people on the ground. But we need to work together in the spirit of reconciliation."

Before we leave, the O’Reeri family perform another ritual, cleansing us with water from the Chamberlain River. Shonelle calls out to the wind, to let Country know we’re here, to look after us. Through fire, water, earth and wind, we’ve touched every element – but none more so than spirit. I still feel Mary’s handprint on my chest above where my ngiadi resides.

A traveller’s checklist

Getting there

The Gibb Road in the Kimberley — Gibb River Road runs through the heart of the Kimberley. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)

Qantas and Airnorth fly to Kununurra from Perth; Airnorth also flies from Darwin and Broome. From there, it’s a 45-minute drive south to Lake Argyle, and a 90-minute drive west to El Questro wilderness park.

Staying there

Discovery Resorts – Lake Argyle has options ranging from campsites and powered RV spots to luxe one- and two-bedroom lakeview cabins (rates from $220 per night). There’s a bistro and bar onsite open for lunch and dinner. Breakfast is self-catered.

El Questro Homestead is a luxurious, full-board ten-suite hideaway that caters for a maximum of 20 guests at any one time. It includes, airport transfers, fine-dining meals, alcohol and activities. Rates are from $2805 per night.

Playing there

an al fresco Cliffside Dinner, Lake Argyle — The al fresco Cliffside Dinner features a bush tucker twist. (Image: Miles Brotherson)

Kimberley Durack cruises of Lake Argyle include transfers from Discovery Resorts – Lake Argyle. The resort also hosts Cliffside Dinners onsite. Excursions at El Questro Homestead include Injiid Marlabu Calls Us Aboriginal Immersion, a Munbala Cruise of the Chamberlain River with the Traditional Owners, exclusive use of Zebedee Springs each afternoon, Bush Natives and Nature 4WD tour and more.

Time your visit to Margaret River just right, and you can spend the ultimate weekend wining, dining and exploring the region with Pair’d Margaret River Region x Range Rover.

Wine, world-class produce, surf, sun and beaches: it’s an alluring combination. And the reason so many pin the Margaret River region high on their travel hit-lists. There’s drawcard after drawcard to the southwestern corner of Western Australia, and the Pair’d Margaret River Region x Range Rover food and wine festival showcases the best of it over the course of one weekend in November. It’s never been easier to sip, see and savour the Margaret River region.

In partnership with Pair’d Margaret River Region, Range Rover invites you on a seven-day itinerary of refined adventure, where luxury and exploration go hand in hand. It’s the perfect WA road trip, and there’s no better way to do it than in a Range Rover.

Day 1

the pool at Pullman Bunker Bay — Check into Pullman Bunker Bay.

There’s no more popular West Australian road trip route than that between Perth and the Margaret River Region. It’s an easily digestible, three-hour drive, with worthy pit stops along the way.

Make the first of them one hour and 15 minutes in, at Lake Clifton. Here, find a 2000-year-old living thrombolite reef. Drive for a further 40 minutes and chance meeting some of Bunbury’s dolphin population at Koombana Bay.

Pullman Bunker Bay is the final stop, just over three hours south of Perth. This beachfront, five-star resort is the ultimate base for exploring the Margaret River Wine region.

Day 2

After a leisurely morning breakfast with an ocean view, start your Range Rover and head towards the Dunsborough town centre. Browsing the decidedly coastal-themed goods of the town’s many independent boutiques is a great way to while away the hours, breaking up the sartorial with an artisan gelato snack stop, or some good old-fashioned Australian bakery fare.

Leave room; you’ll need it for the Good Natured Gathering dinner at Wayfinder. Indulge in a four-course feast by chef Felipe Montiel, which uses produce from the winery’s market garden to enhance a selection of sustainably sourced seafood and meat. But food is just the support act. It’s organic wine that’s the star of the show, generously poured and expertly paired to each dish.

Day 3

Settle in for cabernet at Cape Mentelle Winery.

With a grand total of 20 wines from vintage 2022 to try, it’s a good thing Cape Mentelle’s International Cabernet Tasting kicks off early. Make your way to the estate for a 10:00 AM start, where a global selection of wines will be poured blind, before a long lunch by Tiller Dining is served.

Given that the Margaret River is responsible for more than 20 per cent of Australia’s fine wine production, it’s only right to delve into it while in the area.

Continue exploring the region via taste and terroir aboard Alison Maree, a whale-watching catamaran, as you cruise Geographe Bay . Admire the rolling green hills and crisp white beaches of Quindalup in sunset’s golden light, all the while sipping through the Clairault Streicker catalogue and dining on canapes.

For a more substantial dinner, venture into Busselton for a seven-course British x Australian mash-up , courtesy of Brendan Pratt (Busselton Pavilion) and Oliver Kent (Updown Farmhouse, UK). They’ll be putting their rustic yet refined spin on the likes of local marron, wagyu and abalone – championing the simple beauty of the world-class ingredients.

Day 4

Wrap your fingers around a wine glass and wiggle your toes into the sand at Pair’d Beach Club x Range Rover on Meelup Beach. Sit down to an intimate wine session with sommelier Cyndal Petty – or a four-course feast by Aaron Carr of Yarri – and revel in the open-air beach club, bar and restaurant’s laidback coastal vibe. It’s a whole new way to experience one of the region’s most renowned beaches.

Follow up a day in the sun with a casual Italian party at Mr Barvel Wines . Purchase wines –including the elusive, sold-out Nebbia – by the glass and enjoy canapes with the towering Karri forest as a backdrop.

If you’d prefer to keep it local, head to Skigh Wines for the New Wave Gathering , where the region’s independent wine makers and their boundary-pushing wines will be on show. Street-style eats, a DJ and complimentary wine masterclasses complete the experience.

Day 5

pair'd Grand Tasting — Taste your way through Howard Park Wines. (Image: C J Maddock)

Spend the morning at your leisure, driving the winding roads through the Boranup Karri forest in your Range Rover. Soak in the views at Contos Beach, and call into the small cheese, chocolate and preserve producers along the way.

Make your next stop Howard Park Wines for The Grand Tasting presented by Singapore Airlines . Numerous wine labels will be pouring their catalogues over four hours, accompanied by food from chefs Matt Moran and Silvia Colloca, with live opera providing the soundtrack.

Cap off a big weekend with one last hurrah at Busselton Pavilion. Six ‘local legends’ – chefs Brendan Pratt (Busselton Pavilion), Mal Chow (Chow’s Table), Aaron Carr (Yarri), Ben Jacob (Lagoon Yallingup), Corey Rozario (Dahl Daddies) and Laura Koentjoro (Banksia Tavern) – will be preparing a dish each. Dance the night away as vinyl spins and the sun sets on another day.

Day 6

Ngilgi Cave western australia — Head underground. (Image: Tourism WA)

After a busy few days of wining and dining, it’s wise to observe a rest day. There’s no easier task than unwinding in the Margaret River Region, also famous for its high concentration of world-class beaches.

Relax on the grassy knoll as you watch the region’s most experienced surfers braving the World Surf League break at Surfer’s Point, or don your own wetsuit and try out one of Gracetown’s more beginner-friendly waves. Swimmers will find their Eden at Meelup Beach, Eagle Bay, or Point Piquet, where the sand is brilliantly white and the water as still as a backyard swimming pool.

Not into sun, sand, and surf? Head underground at Mammoth Cave, just one of the region’s many stalactite-filled caves.

Day 7

Burnt Ends event at Pair'd — Farewell the Margaret River.

Pack up your Range Rover with new favourite wines and newfound memories, ready for the three-hour journey back to Perth.