From Laid-Back To Luxury: Exploring The Kimberley Two Ways

The Kimberley’s red landscape is iconic, but its true colours run deeper than the eye can see. From a croc cruise to wild bush luxury and cultural ceremony, the region reveals its many layers.

I’m swimming in the vast, cool waters of Lake Argyle, surrounded by domes of rock glowing that unmistakable shade of Kimberley red. This is Australia’s second largest man-made reservoir – and home to some 30,000 freshwater crocodiles. There’s a sudden splash in the water near me.

And then it surfaces: an ice-cold tinny of XXXX Gold, slung my way by skipper ‘Big Scotty’ from the stern of The Kimberley Durack. “This is Australia’s best swim-up bar," he jokes. But with the sparkling expanse of water fringed by heaving, ancient rock formations, it’s hard to disagree.

A croc-spotting cruise around Lake Argyle

swimming in Lake Argyle — Cooling off with a tinny in Lake Argyle. (Image: Tourism Australia)

I’m cruising Lake Argyle with Big Scotty and Captain Jack Furzer, learning about the geology and wildlife of this ancient landscape. “It’s among the most geologically complex on Earth," Jack tells us. “The oldest rocks here are 2 billion years old."

We’ve moored for a swim and, despite the city-sized population of resident crocs, Captain Jack has assured us that the water is safe. The freshies, he says, are timid by nature. He would know: Jack has spent years sailing these parts, and even recognises a few crocs by name.

Captain Jack Furzer, Lake Argyle — Cruising Lake Argyle with Captain Jack Furzer. (Image: Miles Brotherson)

“That’s Cheech," he’d said earlier, pointing to a sunbaking crocodilian as The Kimberley Durack pootled around the wetlands. “He’s got a girlfriend, Chong, but she’s not here right now." When I ask how he can tell them apart, he grins. “It’s all in their personality."

cruising Lake Argyle onboard The Kimberley Durack — Exploring the lake onboard The Kimberley Durack. (Image: Miles Brotherson)

We can only cover a fraction of this Hong Kong-sized lake, but we still see plenty: agile rock wallabies bounding down the cliff face, buzzards circling overhead, mighty sandstone formations so fluid-like, it seems as if they’re spilling into the lake itself.

rock wallabies by the river, Kimberley — Spot rock wallabies. (Image: Tourism Australia)

Checking into Lake Argyle’s only accommodation

an aerial view of Discovery Resorts - LakeArgyle — Discovery Resorts – Lake Argyle sits atop a cliff overlooking the lake. (Image: Miles Brotherson)

There’s only one accommodation option in this remote yet spectacular reach of the Kimberley. Perched on a cliff overlooking the lake, Discovery Resorts – Lake Argyle is a hub for caravanners and road trippers. But this is no ordinary holiday park. For a start, it’s got an infinity pool often named the country’s most beautiful.

view from the infinity pool at Discovery Resorts - Lake Argyle — The view from the infinity pool at Discovery Resorts – Lake Argyle is considered one of the most beautiful pool vistas in the country. (Image: Miles Brotherson)

Sidling up to the pool’s rim, I flutter my legs and gaze out at the sweeping view of the lake, topaz now, although it seems to change colour throughout the day like a giant mood ring. The vista from my lakeview cabin, one of the resort’s premium options, is even better. I’d checked in just in time to settle into my private balcony and watch an orange moon rise above the cliffs like a sunset in reverse.

the balcony Deluxe Lakeview cabin at Discovery Resorts - Lake Argyle — The park’s Deluxe Lakeview cabins have expansive balconies to take it all in.

El Questro: Australia’s most remote luxury stay

Travelling west from Lake Argyle, the Kimberley’s landscape continues to reveal itself, like origami unfolding. The roads are flanked by curious, stumpy boab trees, native to this part of Australia. They’re the only species of baobab found outside Africa: a strange, tuber-like relic of ancient Gondwanaland.

aerial view of the El Questro Homestead, Kimberley — Spy salties from your cabin at El Questro Homestead. (Image: Delaware North Companies)

I’m headed for El Questro Homestead, one of the country’s most luxurious wilderness lodges. It’s secluded within El Questro wilderness park, a 165,000-hectare former cattle station that was officially returned to its Traditional Owners in 2022. On arrival, lemongrass-infused cold towels and Champagne set the tone. Here, the remoteness makes the comforts feel all the more extravagant.

the Chamberlain Suite Bedroom interior, El Questro Homestead — The luxury lodge’s station-chic interior. (Image: Miles Brotherson)

The Homestead is perched atop a gorge overlooking the Chamberlain River, where guests can keep watch for salties gliding through the malachite-green water from the comfort of their suite or by the poolside. The interiors sing with station-chic decor: all toffee leathers, cowhide rugs and exposed timber beams that nod to its pastoral past. The heart of El Questro Homestead is the lounge, where guests gather each evening for sundowners and elegant, fine dining beneath the stars. But the highlight lies in the Homestead’s all-inclusive activities calendar.

a private tub with view of the Chamberlain River, El Questro Homestead — Take in the view of the Chamberlain River from your private tub. (Image: Miles Brotherson)

Each afternoon, guests can embark on an after-hours visit to Zebedee Springs when it’s closed to the public. We cross the colour wheel as we hike in, swapping the Kimberley’s burnt-orange for a Jurassic-green jungle of prehistoric ferns.

The Zebedee Springs, El Questro — The palm-shaded Zebedee Springs. (Image: Tourism Australia)

The hot springs seep from a fault line deep beneath the Earth’s skin, the water so pure and clear it looks invisible. I sit under a small waterfall, letting the warm water massage my back: it’s a sense of serenity that no spa could replicate.

view of the wilderness park at El Questro Homestead — El Questro Homestead is secluded within the wilderness park. (Image: Miles Brotherson)

Another morning sees us tackling the park’s rugged 4WD tracks with ranger Gab Murphy, powering through epic river crossings and gunning it up hills to breathtaking lookout points. Gab points out features in the landscape, like an ancient boab tree so massive it would take more than 20 people to encircle it. But the most compelling excursions are the ones with the Ngarinyin Traditional Owners.

The Kimberley’s new Indigenous tourism experience

cruising the Chamberlain River — A cruise of the Chamberlain River is included in a stay at The Homestead. (Image: Miles Brotherson)

Standing atop a gorge overlooking the Chamberlain River, eyes closed, I hear the hypnotic murmur of a didgeridoo and the crackle of fire. Eucalyptus smoke perfumes the evening air like incense, and I feel the warmth of two hands pressing against my shoulders. “This is so your joints can be strong, to help you stand tall and proud," whispers Mary O’Reeri, a Nyul Nyul woman from the Kimberley. She releases her grip, warms her palms over the fire, and transfers the heat to my jaw, cradling my face gently.

The Munbala Cruise, Kimberley — The Munbala Cruise takes guests into sacred sites with the Traditional Owners. (Image: Miles Brotherson)

“Your voice matters," she whispers. “Use it to speak up for injustice, to be a voice for those who don’t have one". A final time, Mary cups heat from the flames and presses it to my sternum. “This is your ngiadi," she says softly. “It’s an ancient pathfinder, your deep intuition, your own personal GPS. Connect with it. Learn the beauty of who you are." When she lifts her hand, something more ineffable than warmth lingers on my skin. Mary invites me to step into the smoke billowing from the fire and let it cleanse me. I move about the haze, allowing the tendrils of smoke to swirl around me, healing my spirit as the sun dances on the river like a million golden blinks.

a Nyul Nyul woman conducting a smoke cleansing ceremony — A smoke cleansing ceremony with the Ngarinyin Traditional Owners. (Image: Miles Brotherson)

This is Injiid Marlabu Calls Us, a new addition to El Questro Homestead’s activities calendar. With a vision to deepen visitors’ connection to place, this heartfelt welcome onto Wanjina Wunggurr Country is run by Mary, her husband, Ngarinyin Traditional Owner Nelson O’Reeri, and their daughter Shonelle. This smoke cleansing ceremony, or Bijagoon, is an ancient ritual, passed down by Nelson’s grandmother Injiid, who learned it from her grandmother before her. Injiid is the namesake and inspiration behind the tour, a “mother of all mothers" who was one of the first generations to make contact with the region’s first explorers.

Learning about culture and history on Country

Shonelle, Mary and Nelson O’Reeri. (Image: Miles Brotherson)

This tour isn’t only about healing, it’s about learning, too. About the bush foods and medicines, a pantry and pharmacy to the Traditional Owners who know Country. About the extraordinary yet difficult life of Injiid. And about dark truths – the lasting damage left by the trauma of Australia’s colonial past.

“The Kimberley has one of the highest suicide rates in the world," Nelson tells us. “Every single Aboriginal family here has been impacted." He begins to pluck an acoustic guitar as the family gather round to sing a tribute to relatives they’ve lost. When Nelson sets his guitar down, nobody speaks. Silence and sorrow hang thick in the air like humidity in the wet season. “For us to heal, we have to talk about it," Nelson says.

And so we listen, as the O’Reeri family share not just the beauty of Ngarinyin culture, but the unflinching truths of the challenges their community continues to face. “Our children’s ngiadi is broken, they feel like they don’t belong," Mary says. “We’ve got solutions, we’ve got people on the ground. But we need to work together in the spirit of reconciliation."

Before we leave, the O’Reeri family perform another ritual, cleansing us with water from the Chamberlain River. Shonelle calls out to the wind, to let Country know we’re here, to look after us. Through fire, water, earth and wind, we’ve touched every element – but none more so than spirit. I still feel Mary’s handprint on my chest above where my ngiadi resides.

A traveller’s checklist

Getting there

The Gibb Road in the Kimberley — Gibb River Road runs through the heart of the Kimberley. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)

Qantas and Airnorth fly to Kununurra from Perth; Airnorth also flies from Darwin and Broome. From there, it’s a 45-minute drive south to Lake Argyle, and a 90-minute drive west to El Questro wilderness park.

Staying there

Discovery Resorts – Lake Argyle has options ranging from campsites and powered RV spots to luxe one- and two-bedroom lakeview cabins (rates from $220 per night). There’s a bistro and bar onsite open for lunch and dinner. Breakfast is self-catered.

El Questro Homestead is a luxurious, full-board ten-suite hideaway that caters for a maximum of 20 guests at any one time. It includes, airport transfers, fine-dining meals, alcohol and activities. Rates are from $2805 per night.

Playing there

an al fresco Cliffside Dinner, Lake Argyle — The al fresco Cliffside Dinner features a bush tucker twist. (Image: Miles Brotherson)

Kimberley Durack cruises of Lake Argyle include transfers from Discovery Resorts – Lake Argyle. The resort also hosts Cliffside Dinners onsite. Excursions at El Questro Homestead include Injiid Marlabu Calls Us Aboriginal Immersion, a Munbala Cruise of the Chamberlain River with the Traditional Owners, exclusive use of Zebedee Springs each afternoon, Bush Natives and Nature 4WD tour and more.

Blend the addictive energy of dance, creative cinematic movies, captivating theatre, and energising music during Perth Festival.

Perth Festival has extraordinary roots. Born as a summer community experiment back in 1953, the brainchild of Professor Fred Alexander, it’s now Australia’s longest-running international art-based festival. From its first event at University of Western Australia, it now spans across Noongar Boodjar country (Perth City) bringing worldclass performances into the hearts of ardent festivalgoers. Hundreds of curtain calls, including numerous free events, are set to linger and leave a lasting impression on those who seek thrills that fill life’s in-between spaces. Featuring unmissable highlights from 6^th February to 1^st March, we’ve done the legwork for you – here’s what’s on, and where:

1. East Perth Power Station

East Perth Power Station during Perth Festival — See East Perth Power Station come alive. (Image: Jessica Wyld Photography)

Abandoned, run-down and shutdown in 1981, East Perth Power Station , located on the banks of the stunning Swan River, was reinvented in 2025 as an entertainment venue for the Perth Festival. Pack a picnic, bring the family and kick back under paperbark trees at Casa Musica – a free event featuring a melting pot of world-class musicians from Australian shores and around the globe. The diversity will have you bopping until the final encore.

A decade after David Bowie’s passing, his powerful music lives on in the electrifying show, Rebel Rebel . Powerhouse vocalists join Perth Symphony Orchestra for one incredible night showcasing the singer-songwriter’s iconic hits. Illuminate your world through the eyes of First Nation Noongar artist, Lance Chadd Tjyllyungoo in a free event. His distinctive paintings and Dreamtime stories decorate the Power Station’s walls depicting spiritual beliefs. Or settle in to watch British indie pop singer-songwriter, Nilüfer Yanya .

2. St Mary’s Cathedral

Take in Award-winning vocal group, Roomful of Teeth. (Image: Anja Schutz)

Step into the lofty ceilings of Perth’s grandest cathedral, St Mary’s, and soak up choral harmonies. Dating back to 1865, the stained-glass reproductions of Leonardo da Vinci’s Last Supper are a talking point, add talented maestros, and the stage is set to enthral.

The international line-up is impressive. Master Irish fiddler, Martin Hayes takes to the stage with exquisite lyrical compositions from his native land. Åkervinda , an award winning Swedish quartet, weave stories of love, loss, and resilience into harmonious Nordic folk songs. The USA Grammy Award-winning vocal group, Roomful of Teeth , break all the rules. Hear their voices echo through the arched vaulted ceilings.

3. Lotterywest Films

guests at Lotterywest Films as part of Perth Festival — Discover the Lotterywest Films program. (Credit: Jessia Wyld Photograpghy)

One of the festivals longest-running favourites, Lotterywest Films run a rich tapestry of cinematic features showing until 29th of March. Pack a picnic, cushions, popcorn and pop a cork under a Somerville Pine Tree as the sun sets and screenings begin. Cinema lovers, choose your poison from thrillers, deep-dive documentaries, tearjerkers, raunchy rom-coms and side-splitting comedies. The program is fantastically full, the filmmakers the best in the business, and the outdoor setting, unequalled.

4. The Embassy

guests at The EMbassy as part of Perth Festival — Step into the old world glitz of The Embassy. (Image: Franz Bato)

Modelled on Perth’s historic Embassy Ballroom, a devilish dance venue that operated in the 1900s, The Embassy in Perth Town Hall , serves sophistication in its A-list shows. Set your sequins a’sparkle at the, What’s TINA Got to Do With It extravaganza where guest artists play tribute as they belt out the glitzy star’s hits. The returning act, Ali Bodycoat & The Embassy Big Band, will have you jiving as you take to the dance floor reimagining a bygone era. Who doesn’t like chocolate? Black-bearded drag sensation, La Gateau Chocolat puts the raw in cacao. World-renowned for his feisty range of storied songs, he reveals the inner-man come artist through his deliciously sweet and intimate act.

5. Unusual locations

still from The Trial theatre — Watch a star-studded cast in The Trial. (Image: Cole Baxter)

We’ve all heard of the hit show, The Office, but a spinetingling operatic thriller acted out in disused office space? Philip Glass’ nail-biter, The Trial , has a star-studded line-up. Together they deliver a dramatic ordeal showcasing Oscar-winner Christopher Hampton’s libretto; the suspense lingers after the final bow.

Sit back under starry skies and soak up dynamic dance at Ballet at the Quarry: Incandescence . Four exclusive classical and contemporary acts illuminate the amphitheatre’s stage as Perth City twinkles at nightfall. Mystery excites the mind. West Australian Opera returns again with another ‘secret opera’. Be led from an undisclosed meeting point and let the music lead to the secret.

6. A View From A Bridge

A View From A Bridge special event at Perth Festival — Share your innermost thoughts at A View From A Bridge.

Free, connecting strangers, and inclusive to everyone, artist, Joe Bloom’s collaborative project, A View From A Bridge has one prop – an old red telephone. Talk into the receiver , share thoughts, innermost feelings, memories, hopes and dreams as Bloom captures you from afar. The freedom to speak through the telephone movement has a worldwide following. A range of clips will be shown online.

What else to do in Perth

Shadow Wine Bar in perth — Taste the best of Perth at eateries like Shadow Wine Bar.

Endless blue skies crown Perth during February, making it the perfect time to explore Australia’s most western capital city. The city might be compact, but it packs a punch when it comes to what’s on. Perth Cultural Centre houses the city’s art-scene venues: Western Australian Art Gallery, WA Museum Boola Bardip and Perth Institute of Contemporary Arts (PICA).

After exploring the city’s alleyways, hidden corners, and main hub, savour worldclass food in Perth’s vibrant eateries. Award-winning restaurants, rooftop bars, and cafes can be found throughout; the leisurely eat-and-drink scene is literally mouthwatering, so book extra nights.