No photos can do justice to this natural phenomenon. Make the most of it with 24 hours aboard Jetwave Pearl Horizontal Falls.

After my first-ever seaplane ride over the red dirt vistas of the Buccaneer Archipelago to Talbot Bay, a short jetboat ride takes us from the main pontoon in Talbot Bay to our accommodation for the night: Jetwave Pearl Horizontal Falls.

From helicopter rides to swimming with sharks to sleeping in luxury on the water in the striking Kimberleys; this is what you can expect on a 24-hour tour aboard this unique floating accommodation.

The story behind Jetwave Pearl

This newly refurbished 26-metre liveaboard offering is from Horizontal Falls Seaplane Adventures (owned by Journey Beyond) – the region’s longest-running Horizontal Falls tour operators. In fact, they pioneered seaplane tours over this part of the world and have their own fleet of Cessna turboprop seaplanes.

While they offer day trips and short stays for more of a budget-friendly option onboard the main pontoon or the neighbouring houseboat, the Ultimate Horizontal Falls Luxury tours have been added to their repertoire as a way to level up the luxe, and help guests fully immerse into the beautiful surrounds.

Getting there

Seaplanes depart from Broome and Derby, taking about an hour until you reach Talbot Bay. You can find direct flights to Broome from Perth and now Sydney as well. To reach Derby you’ll likely have to pass through Broome anyway, whether by plane, a Greyhound Australia bus during the week, or driving the 2.5 hours.

While both are good options, the company does note that departing from Derby is the only way to guarantee the experience of viewing the Horizontal Falls on both an incoming and outgoing tide.

Your journey

Watching our pilot from my seat on the 17-seat seaplane as she fiddled with dials and knobs I didn’t understand was almost as much of a thrill as the red dirt vistas of the Buccaneer Archipelago outside my window. But then that red dirt gave way to water so blue it was like someone had spilt food dye into the bay, and I forgot all about the pilot.

The plane zooms low over Horizontal Falls, giving all passengers a bird’s-eye glimpse of this natural wonder. You won’t have too long to take it all in – yet – as the plane comes in for a landing between the mountains on that incredibly blue water, right beside a fairly large pontoon – almost the only sign of human life.

The plane and the pontoon are owned by Horizontal Falls Seaplane Adventures, as is the jetboat we jumped straight into that took us to an even more remote resting place: Jetwave Pearl Horizontal Falls in the calm, protected waters of Cyclone Creek (where the company anchor their liveaboards during rough weather).

First impressions

My jaw is already on the jetboat floor as we zoom through the iconic red, white and green of the land here in The Kimberleys. There is literally not a soul around (besides the staff) now that we’ve rounded a few corners and the serenity is palpable.

The staff are lined up on the floating platform in front of Jetwave Pearl, waving to us in greeting. We’re offered welcome drinks and nibbles while one by one we are shown to our room for the evening before being welcomed by the Traditional Owners of Dambeemangarddee Country, who have lived on this sacred land for 56,000 years.

Every staff member is genuine, friendly and goes above and beyond when it comes to being helpful (one kind woman even took a sanitary item from her own stash for me when I realised I’d forgotten to pack mine). It was a vibe they managed to keep up during our whole stay – from our private chef to our stewards to our activity guide. It feels like they genuinely love being out here, which frankly made me love it all the more, as well.

The accommodation

Intentionally designed with a colour palette that complements the hues of Talbot Bay (think teal greens, rusty browns, and cool sand tones), Jetwave Pearl almost blends into its surroundings. Even the bespoke carpeting features a design representing the view of Horizontal Falls from the seaplane. The shared spaces are beautiful, encouraging guests to spend time out of their rooms and mingling with each other – whether that be over a meal at the long dining tables next to the kitchen downstairs, lounging on the sofas with a few boardgames upstairs, or soaking in the Kimberleys air on the back deck.

Jetwave Pearl can accommodate a maximum of 20 guests with three cabin options: Main Deck Standard Cabin with double bed, Upper Deck Standard Cabin with double bed and Upper Deck Premium Cabin with queen or twin beds. Each has its own private bathroom, a few shelves and a perfectly comfortable bed. They’re nothing super fancy, but they have all the essentials you’ll need (including air-conditioning).

What really makes the Jetwave Pearl spectacular, however, is its mooring location. In this peaceful place, you’re surrounded by unique geometric shapes in cliff walls – that change colours from white to red and every shade between as the sun makes its daily journey – and the trees that cling to them. You’ll want to be settled in on the deck with a coffee or local Matso beer for sunrise and sunset because they truly are spectacular here. Glimpses of bright green mangroves can be seen down narrower water channels. And you can hear the constant soundtrack of nature: small splashes from fish who brave the surface, birdlife chirping to each other and small rustles as unseen creatures move between the brush and trees on land.

A couple of local fishermen found their way into the best fishing spots near us at one stage, but we didn’t begrudge them; it still felt like we were all alone in this pristine location.

The food and drink

You might think that ordering grocery supplies for floating accommodation as remote as this one is a challenge (especially when you factor in the strict weight limit of seaplanes), and you’d be right. Nevertheless, the chef very much pulls off the task successfully. Three times a day we’re treated to a freshly cooked meal with a creative flair, alongside plenty of snacks served in between (think fruit platters and muffins).

The menu won’t ever be the same from one group of visitors to the next as it very much depends on supplies available at the time – but expect fresh produce (like locally caught Barramundi) whipped up into restaurant-quality meals. They also cater for dietary requirements (just let them know when you book). Non-alcoholic beverages are included in the package, and everything else is BYO.

Activities

Over two days, we are lucky enough to explore the Horizontal Falls (and the surrounding area) in several ways: via seaplane (obviously), and multiple boat rides through the middle of the larger gap (the smaller is sacred and left alone out of respect). While they all offer a different and beautiful point of view, the absolute highlight is a helicopter ride over the falls and the surrounding Maclarty Ranges.

With no side doors to obstruct our views (don’t worry, we are strapped in good and tight), our pilot takes us soaring over the approximately 1.8 billion-year-old landscape. As we make our way to the falls we spot the sinister shadow of one of the local sharks (which we’ll meet much closer up in the days to come, thanks to a viewing platform on the main pontoon), and it holds our attention before we get to the rushing waters of Horizontal Falls and forgot all about him.

Only a bird’s-eye view really captures the majesty of this unusual phenomenon. Despite the whirling propellers and the occasional insights from our pilot over my headphones, soaking in the sacred majesty of this view made me feel completely at peace in a way only the beauty of nature can. The flight isn’t short, but we touch down all too soon – it’s time for the next pair to take their turn. 

Later in the day, we get out on the water with fishing rods to try our luck. While fishing itself isn’t so fruitful for our small group, we soon discover we have much bigger fish to fry. A quick trip into the mangroves lands us up close and personal with one of the local residents: a large male crocodile. He has no smile for us as he makes a beeline for the boat to warn us away from his territory. This is the unpredictable, wild nature of The Kimberlys, and I am loving every minute.

What to pack

As mentioned, seaplanes have a strict weight limit, and therefore, so does your luggage (there’s a five-kilo limit). Not to mention you won’t want a large suitcase taking up precious space in your room. The good news is, you also don’t need a lot.

Pack a small bag with sunscreen, one change of clothes (if you have weight left you can pack one more to change into for dinner after a day in the sun, but it’s absolutely not necessary), swimmers and a towel plus any personal medication and essential toiletries.

The details

An overnight package out of Broome or Derby costs from $1700 per person, which is actually something of a bargain when you consider all that’s included. You’ll get coach transfers to and from your accommodation at the town of origin, return seaplane flights to Horizontal Falls, all activities, meals and, of course, your stay aboard Jetwave Pearl Horizontal Falls.

For more incredible inspiration and insider tips, read our travel guide to the Kimberleys.