Continuing on with her Golden Outback road trip, Jenny Ringland takes the road less travelled and explores stunning Fitzgerald River National Park, one of the largest parks in WA.
Part 2: Wave Rock to Hopetoun
It’s a 3.5-hour drive to Hopetoun via Lake King and Ravensthorpe. Passing Lake King, we’re met by the same eerie scene of dead trees and cracks of salt.
According to Sheenagh, the government matches dollar for dollar the money farmers spend on regeneration. However, few have participated in the scheme.
“Farmers don’t have that money to spare. We’ve only just come out of a 10-year drought where so many farmers were forced off the land. Spending money on regeneration isn’t a priority and you can’t blame them,’’ she says.
More stories of hardship greet us at Hopetoun – this time thanks to the sale of BHP’s nickel mine in 2010, but there’s a recurring theme emerging. Everyone seems happy.
It’s a tiny coastal village with a bakery, cafe-slash-small-goods store and a self-serve laundromat, petrol station and hot shower depot for independent campers passing through. However it’s Fitzgerald River National Park that demands our attention.
We’re surprised to learn that it’s one of the largest and most botanically significant parks in Australia, home to nearly 20 per cent of WA’s flora species.
Even more surprising is that we literally have the park to ourselves. We follow a 1.7-kilometre walking trail to Hamersley Beach and at each turn the sound of crashing waves intensifies.
We weave past Hamersley Inlet, which has a lovely protected spot for camping and arrive to find an extreme coastline, sand dotted with prehistoric-looking rocks jutting from the ground, and sea mist swirling. We feel quickly transported back millions of years.
The park has it all: desert-like sand dunes, jaw-droppingly beautiful beaches, and days’ worth of walking to do. So why is it that we have the place to ourselves?
“We’re just one of many national parks in WA," says Rick Besso, owner of local accommodation Wavecrest.
“We have a lot of competition and to get to Hopetoun it’s a detour, but we’re hoping we can attract more of the independent travellers, the grey nomads… you know? It’s really beautiful here," Rick says. Yep, we hear you.
The East Kimberley should be on every bucket list, and here’s why.
Livistona palms soar out of chasms the colour of Valencia oranges. Shady waterholes beckon travellers daring to venture off the bitumen. From the air, fruit farms give way to vast plains that meet rolling hills and fascinating geological formations centuries in the making. The East Kimberley is one of Australia’s most treasured wilderness areas, but don’t be fooled by its rust-coloured roads. This north-eastern corner of Western Australia is home to some of Australia’s most iconic stays by Discovery Resorts that should be on everyone’s bucket list.
Dine in the heart of nature.
Your guide to Lake Argyle
The backstory
With rolling hills that glow amber at sunrise and glassy water that reflects the Kimberley’s bright blue sky, a visit to Lake Argyle is nothing short of awe-inspiring. As Australia’s second-largest man-made freshwater lake, travellers flock here to soak in the views from boats, helicopters and Discovery Resorts – Lake Argyle.
The latter is a lakeside oasis, a resort where travellers crossing from Western Australia into the Northern Territory (or vice versa) converge. Fifty minutes’ drive south of Kununurra, the property is perched atop a cliff overlooking the sprawling Lake Argyle.
Discovery Resorts – Lake Argyle was originally built in the late 1960s to provide accommodation for builders of the Ord River dam, which formed Lake Argyle. In the decades that followed it had several owners, until a Kununurra local took the reins in 2004 and reinvented the property with luxury villas and its now world-famous infinity pool. The iconic property was added to the Discovery Resorts portfolio in 2021, undergoing a major upgrade that took the resort from a beloved campground to an all-encompassing resort with premium waterfront villas.
Glide across the vast, shimmering waters of Lake Argyle.
The rooms
A lakeside resort like no other, Discovery Resorts – Lake Argyle offers something for everyone, from campsites to villas and cabins . The Deluxe Lakeview Cabins have views of the opposing cliff and are surrounded by bush, ensuring plenty of privacy, while both the Deluxe and Standard Cabins are ideal for families, with contemporary furnishings and one, two or four bedrooms. The campsites also come in a variety of sizes.
The facilities
There’s no doubt the biggest drawcard to Discovery Resorts – Lake Argyle is the lake, 20 times the size of Sydney Harbour. One of the best ways to experience it is on the Kimberley Durack Sunset Explorer Cruise , during which you’ll see freshwater crocodiles nesting along the banks (it’s home to 30,000 freshies) and even get the chance to swim in their waters. The cruise also takes in Mt Misery, towering above the original and now submerged Argyle Downs Homestead.
If you have young children who need to get to bed early, a great alternative is the three-hour Lunch Explorer Cruise . You’ll tour around the lake’s bays as you learn about the local wildlife before stopping at a remote island for a swim.
Refuel between adventures at the onsite pub-style eatery, The Lake Argyle Cafe. The cafe is the heart of the resort, bringing together friends new and old over a steak, cold beer and live music. Hours vary with the seasons, but rest assured you’ll be able to enjoy a good feed year-round, with a well-stocked general store also open during the day.
Cool off from a day of exploring in the striking infinity pool with some of the best views in the country (you’ll find sweeping views of the lake below). Or enjoy a flight with HeliSpirit, or clear your mind during a yoga class on the lawn.
Take a dip in the infinity pool and soak in breathtaking Lake Argyle views.
Your guide to El Questro
The backstory
One of the most famous stays in Australia is El Questro . A former cattle station, it’s evolved into one of the country’s most recognisable tourism destinations over the past 30 years, and is now embarking on a new chapter to elevate the region’s rich First Nations culture.
The property draws travellers seeking to reconnect with nature and the beauty of this country. Wild in spirit but immaculate in style, El Questro is a 283,000-hectare property like no other; surrounded by dramatic gorges, impressive mountain ranges, thermal springs, secluded waterfalls and even rainforest, it’s the perfect base for adventurous souls.
Float along Zebedee Springs and immerse in nature.
The rooms
Across the sprawling El Questro are three properties catering to the wide variety of travellers who journey this way. The most impressive is the luxurious Homestead , where 10 suites perch at the edge of a burnt-orange cliff, with cantilevered bedrooms over the peaceful Chamberlain River. The adults-only, all-inclusive Homestead is a member of the prestigious Luxury Lodges of Australia collection and offers a backdrop of thick bushland; riverside, you’ll find an immaculate lawn and a shaded pool that lures guests out of their rooms.
At Emma Gorge , travellers will be immersed in the beauty of the Cockburn Ranges, falling asleep to the sounds of wildlife in safari-style tented cabins. This is where you come if you want to completely connect with your environment while retaining a few creature comforts. The Emma Gorge Tented Cabins sleep three or four people and feature private ensuites and ceiling fans.
Families also love The Station , home to simple yet comfortable air-conditioned rooms, as well as a large, leafy campground. Sitting by the Pentecost River, The Station is open from April to October and has a range of accommodation, from unpowered and powered campsites to air-conditioned tents for two people and a Gardenview Family Room for five.
Take a breather with stunning views of nature all around.
The facilities
Located in the heart of the Kimberley, El Questro retains its strong connection with its Traditional Owners, the Ngarinyin people. A highlight of a stay here is the Injiid Marlabu Calls Us experience ; over two hours, guests are immersed in the soul of Country by witnessing ancient healing rituals, listening to generational stories and learning about the land’s ancestral heritage.
Other experiences include bird watching, cruising through Chamberlain Gorge, hiking through Emma Gorge, horse riding, four-wheel-driving and soaking in Zebedee Springs. At the properties, you can also cool off in the pools, and relax in the restaurants or at private dining locations. A bonus of staying at The Homestead is the exclusive service of El Questro’s dedicated reservations team, who will craft a bespoke itinerary tailored to your travel tastes.
