10 historical things you can do in Albany, Western Australia

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Soon after the outbreak of the First World War in August 1914, when troops were called to mobilise from both Australia and New Zealand, Albany – a tiny, unassuming town in south-west WA – was chosen as the unlikely locale for the biggest fleet the Commonwealth had ever assembled.

When Henry Lawson visited Albany in 1890, he described it as a town that “will never change much – it is a pretty town, but vague. It seems to exist only in a somewhere-on-the-horizon sort of way".

 

But Mr Lawson was not to predict the events of October 1914, when the locals woke one morning to several large ships arriving into King George Sound to dock at the vast, sheltered Princess Royal Harbour. Not an unusual sight for a port town, one may think – except that these ships had on board thousands of troops bound for the First World War (by the time they departed, there would be 38 ships, 30,000 troops and 7000 horses in total). Thanks to censorship, no one had any idea they were coming.

 

The scene intensified even more at the arrival of our New Zealand comrades, who met the Australians they would fight side-by-side with for the first time here.

 

“The cheering and counter-cheering, the Maori war cries and answering cooees would have moved a stoic," says New Zealand War Historian, Major Fred Waite. “Young Australia was welcoming young New Zealand in no uncertain manner in the first meeting of those brothers-in-arms, soon to be known by a glorious name as yet undreamed of."

 

Surprised? There is much to learn of Albany’s ANZAC connection. Here are 10 ways to do so.

 1. Walk down memory lane

Wander along York Street and Stirling Terrace – the locations for daily marches, where some of the troops were given the chance to stretch their legs and escape the confines of the ships – and you can almost picture the extraordinary scenes that would have taken place here.

 

There are recounts of locals, who largely embraced the arrival of the ships, presenting some of the men with sprigs of wattle as a memento of home, as they marched optimistically down these streets, waving their hats in the air in a celebratory fashion. Make sure you stop to look at photographs of such scenes, which are available at the Albany History Collection in the public library, as well as the Western Australian Museum.

2. Visit Australia’s first-ever ANZAC museum

The first-ever dedicated ANZAC exhibition in the country will open its doors here on 1 November: the National Anzac Centre. James Dexter, director of creative and regional development for the Western Australian Museum, says it is intended to be the country’s premier destination to learn about the ANZACs, though “we are not seeking to glorify Australia’s military achievements," he adds.

 

“We are seeking to allow those who sailed on the first two convoys to speak directly to you." That is, almost literally, the case: the museum will offer access to personal, never-before-explored stories of 32 Australians and New Zealanders on board one of the first two convoys, as well as the stories of a Turk and a German who were involved in the battle at Gallipoli. Visitors will be allocated one of these identities on arrival, learning of their personal story through the state-of-the-art interactive, multimedia exhibition.

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3. Lay a wreath at ANZAC Peace Park

Stand in front of the granite wall here, eyes closed, and consider these statistics: from a population of fewer than five million, over 416,809 men enlisted in the First World War; over 60,000 of these were killed and 156,000 were wounded or taken prisoner.

 

Banjo Paterson beautifully summed up our sacrifice as a young nation in his poem We’re all Australians now: “The mettle that a race can show is proved with shot and steel, and now we know what nations know and feel what nations feel". Laying a wreath on the wall is a special way to pay tribute to those men and women who left from this very spot 100 years ago, and all those who have worn the Australian uniform in every battle since.

Wreaths at ANZAC Peace Park, Albany.
Wreaths at ANZAC Peace Park, Albany.

4. Read personal messages from the war

The newly built Convoy Walk, officially opening alongside the National Anzac Centre, has 21 markers along its route, at which you can learn about the ships in the first and second convoys, including names, images and where they embarked their troops.

 

The most moving feature of the walk is placed at its start at Mt Adelaide: Longing is an aluminium artwork, which features inscribed text from letters sentby Australian troops to their loved ones back home during the war.

5. Take in the view from Mt Clarence

Did we mention Albany also has some pretty-as-a-picture scenery? A walk up to Mt Clarence showcases this, with a spectacular panoramic outlook to Princess Royal Harbour and beyond. But also at the top – where the Dawn Service is held each year – stands the Desert Mounted Corps Memorial, a nine-metre recast of the original bronze statue that stood in the Suez Canal until it was destroyed in the war in 1956.

 

It was resurrected in Albany in 1964 atop original granite blocks that still display bullet marks, as a tribute to the ANZAC spirit and that beloved notion of mateship. Although you can drive up to the site, you can also walk up the Avenue of Honour along the gum tree-lined road, each of which displays the name of a soldier lost at war.

6. Go to the site of the first Dawn Service

Also atop Mt Clarence is a lookout named after local icon Padre Arthur Ernest White, who, it is believed, held the first ever Dawn Service at this exact spot, on 25 April 1930. After serving as the chaplain to the 44th Battalion in the trenches of France, he returned to Albany and was appointed the Rector of St John’s Church (on York Street).

 

After mass, he and a group of parishioners climbed to the summit of Mt Clarence to watch a boatman cast a wreath into King George Sound, as he recited those most revered words: “As the sun riseth and goeth down, we will remember them". If you’re interested in Padre White’s story, you can head to the church to see his original chaplain war kit, alongside the church register that recognises his Dawn Service as the first.

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7. Contemplate our eternal connection with Turkey

The channel between King George Sound and Princess Royal Harbour was renamed Atatürk Channel (after the Turkish wartime president Mustafa Kemal Atatürk) in a reciprocal recognition of our countries’ losses. (The beach at Gallipoli, where the ANZAC troops landed, has in turn been officially renamed ANZAC Cove.)

 

A statue of Atatürk, erected in Albany in 2002, is inscribed with the words he famously uttered at the 1934 Dawn Service: “There is no difference between the Johnnies and Mehmets to us where they lie side by side…" It is a moving sentiment to contemplate as you take the three-kilometre beachside boardwalk from here into town. The trail has spectacular lookouts to the turquoise waters of King George Sound as it sweeps around the bay, taking in the area’s ruggedly beautiful landscape, passing through ANZAC Peace Park and ending at Stirling Terrace.

Ataturk Memorial, Albany, WA.
Ataturk Memorial, Albany, WA.

8. Pay respects at the Memorial Park Cemetery

Albany’s ANZAC story didn’t end when the first two convoys departed in November and December 1914; another 243 Australian and New Zealand troop and hospital ships called in both outward and homeward bound until 1919. Albany’s hospital treated the sick and the wounded aboard these ships, but sadly, some died and are buried at the Memorial Park Cemetery and also Allambie Park.

9. Go whale watching

John and Forrest Woodbury, owners of Albany Whale Tours, are significantly involved in ANZAC commemorations each year, running two free cruises at dawn and midday on ANZAC Day and on this year’s Memorial Day. “We don’t feel right charging people on such an important and revered day for Australians," says John, who encourages all participants to consider what those on board endured, such as the less than hospitable weather, illness, minimal food supplies and problems with body waste.

 

The tour also passes Breaksea Island, home in 1914 to 15-year-old Fay Howe, the lighthouse keeper’s daughter who signalled to the troops via morse code, thus becoming their last hope of getting messages telegraphed back home – an impressive mark on the ANZAC history made by one young girl. Free ANZAC tours are offered on a first-come, first-served basis – just call to book your place. On all other days, tours run twice a day during whale season (late May to October) when humpback and southern right whales are regularly spotted. $9 per adult; $55 per child; under four free.

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Swimmers on Middleton Beach, Albany (photo: Fleur Bainger).

10. Attend the centenary commemorations

Of course, Canberra’s War Memorial still remains the centre for anyone seeking to understand Australia through the conflicts it has been involved in, but any Australian interested in the ANZAC story would appreciate a visit to Albany.

 

The town’s program of events during the ANZAC Centenary will run from 31 October to 2 November, and will include the Royal Australian Navy Ceremonial Sunset, a lighting display in Princess Royal Harbour, a troop march, a commemorative service, a community concert, the opening of the brand new National Anzac Centre, a symbolic ship departure, and a ‘mess hall’ where market stalls and pop-up restaurants will take place, among other smaller events.

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Megan Arkinstall
Megan Arkinstall is a freelance travel writer who you’ll often find at the beach, bushwalking or boating with her young family. She loves reliving travel memories through writing, whether that be sipping limoncello in a sun-drenched courtyard of Monterosso or swimming with green turtles in the aquamarine waters of Tropical North Queensland.
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Off-grid stays and farm-to-plate dining: discover the ultimate guide to Denmark, WA

Trade early morning phone alarms and city chaos for bucolic serenity and gastronomic delights.

Peaceful birdsong and coastal winds meet rolling green hills and turquoise waters; there’s no better place to start your day than in Western Australia’s Denmark. This picturesque coastal town, a 4.5-hour drive from Perth along the pristine Rainbow Coast, offers bucolic bliss in spades.

A hidden retreat lies just a 10-minute drive from the town centre, inviting guests to slow down and connect with nature. At Heyscape Denmark, the ultimate refuge from the rat race and the perfect setting for a rural escape await.

Whether it’s for a refreshing weekend away or a regenerative week-long sojourn, this idyllic pocket of the world will leave you feeling anew.

Where to stay

women on front deck at inside a cabin at heyscape denmar Western australia
Make the most of outdoor baths. (Credit: Jarrad Seng)

Located on the 880-acre Raintree Estate, Heyscape Denmark is an award-winning, off-grid cabin retreat ideal for anyone craving time in nature while also enjoying sustainable, luxury comfort. Just 15 are sensitively embedded in the rural environment, ensuring privacy and the perfect setting to switch off. Choose from one-bedroom, two-bedroom or 4-person cabins. Four-legged friends can also join in on the fun with pet-friendly cabins available.

inside a cabin at heyscape denmar Western australia
Check in, to check out.

The modern accommodations are well-appointed with queen beds dressed in lush linen and pillows; a bathroom with a warm shower, flushable toilet and botanical shampoo and conditioner; and an indoor kitchenette with a Nespresso coffee maker. Outside, find timber decks with seating to spot resident kangaroos from, Heston Blumenthal barbecues for whipping up delicious meals using local produce, and outdoor baths to soak up incredible nighttime skies – Denmark’s lack of light pollution makes it an exceptional spot for stargazing and viewing the Milky Way. Floor-to-ceiling windows frame sweeping Great Southern Ocean, William Bay National Park and Karri tree views.

Wellness is at the forefront of Heyscape Denmark with thoughtful touches including Note to Self prompts, gratitude cards and a botanical sleep spray ready to help you unwind. And for the ultimate weekend of R&R, two-bedroom cabins are fitted with saunas.

Where to eat

Heyscape’s Marron Catch & Cook Experience
Catch your own freshwater crayfish, then have a chef prepare it for you.

The Great Southern region’s Mediterranean climate and nutrient-rich soils make for some of the most incredible produce in the world – and a stay at Heyscape Denmark lets you sample the very best of it. The estate farms over 200 black Angus cattle, marron – a freshwater crayfish endemic to the South-West of Western Australia –, hemp and French black truffle.

Just steps from these cabins sits the estate’s paddock-to-plate restaurant, The Dam. Featuring lofty jarrah ceilings, polished concrete and expansive windows revealing calming dam views, it’s a stunning spot for lunch or dinner, alongside an outdoor playground to keep little ones happy and busy.

Acclaimed chef Jason Jujnovich utilises ingredients from Raintree Estate’s regenerative farm in his hyper-local, Modern Australian menu. Seasonally changing dishes include the likes of wagyu beef lasagna and pistachio crumbed chicken cotoletta. Or join in for pizza night on a Friday, where the mushroom and truffle pizza is an easy winner.

Meals are designed to be paired with sips from the property’s innovative Cannabis Botanical Distillery, which concocts house-made hemp spirits and seltzers using ingredients grown onsite. Taste unique drops such as the Sativa Gin with warm citrus and pepper notes and the Pineapple Passion seltzer.

Another stand-out gastronomic offering is Heyscape’s Marron Catch & Cook Experience, which lets you hand-catch freshwater crayfish from the property’s pristine dams and have them prepared and cooked to perfection for you by chefs. Those wanting to enjoy a meal from the comfort of their cabin can fire up the barbecue and grill their fresh catch or order a gourmet dinner box with mouthwatering wagyu steak and antipasti against golden peaceful sunset views.

Things to do

Lights Beach denmark western australia
Spend a day enjoying the idyllic Lights Beach. (Credit: Tourism WA)

There’s no shortage of things to do in Denmark, and basing yourself at Heyscape Denmark puts you within easy access to it all. Nature lovers are spoiled with unbeatable spots for swimming and snorkelling, plus coastal hiking trails at William Bay National Park – a protected coastal reserve with approximately 1734 hectares of stunning landscapes ready to be explored.

Hire an e-bike from the property and cycle just 15 minutes to the unbelievably clear waters and white sands of Greens Pools, a naturally sheltered beach. Or the idyllic Lights Beach, which features three beaches, dunes, natural wading pool and scenic walking trails. Keen surfers should turn their attention to Ocean Beach with its world-class surf breaks.

aerial Valley of the Giants Tree Top Walk
Wander the Valley of the Giants Tree Top Walk. (Credit: Tourism WA)

Stroll past towering Karri and giant Red Tingle trees on the Valley of the Giants Tree Top Walk. The 600-metre walkway rises 40 metres above the ancient forest floor and meanders through the hardwood trees, endemic exclusively to the Great Southern region.

Denmark is also a haven for creatives, and Butter Factory Studios is a must-stop on any itinerary. The contemporary art gallery, working artist studio and gift shop are housed within a historic building where workshops and exhibitions support and showcase creators from the region.

With the winning trifecta of delicious food, a pristine environment, and secluded accommodation, Denmark proves to be the ultimate destination for relaxation.

Book your Denmark adventure today at heyscape.com.au.

10 Historical Things You Can Do In Albany, Western Australia