Like many medium-sized regional cities, Busselton has a bypass road that has both pros and cons. For years, people en route to the Margaret River region would take the shortcut.
Lately though, drivers – myself included – are veering around the roundabout, into the freshly polished main street and down onto the revitalised foreshore. It turns out Busselton – known as ‘Busso’ to the locals – has been unfairly overlooked.
Before you even reach the dazzling coastline – the sheltered blue expanse of Geographe Bay fills every inch of peripheral vision – there’s reason enough to pause. The first stop should be Bistro Breton , a thoroughly French crêpe house where traditional buckwheat flour is used, just like in Brittany (mais, oui!).
A few doors down, Alberta’s is a hole-in-the-wall 50-seater run by the former head chef of Noma (yes, THAT Noma) and his WA-born partner, previously Noma’s head gardener. Opening – for now – only between 8am and noon, Friday to Monday, they’re defiantly pursuing their dream of work-life balance while serving unconventional breakfasts such as chicken bone broth or bun with cheese.
Alberta’s Kitchen and Store is a must-visit spot. (Image: Josh Ball)
Next door to them is Burger Bones , a spot that became an instant institution revered for its intensely flavoured, grass-fed Blackwood Valley Beef – locals report driving for miles for a taste of it. Hally’s Bar is a short amble around the block and, with its arrival, barflies can now gaze over the rooftops, cocktail in hand.
Hally’s Bar has a rooftop with a view. (Image: Mckillop Photography)
The views may draw you to the shore, famous for Busselton Jetty, which juts 1.841 kilometres out over the ocean, making it the longest timber-piled jetty in the southern hemisphere. Its deepest pylons give way to an underwater observatory, with coral and subtropical fish visible through huge windows.
Busselton Jetty is iconic. (Image: Tourism Australia)
A new cafe and marine discovery centre are currently being built at its tip, due to open in mid-2023. Back on the sand, a nautical-themed playground complete with a sinking ship and whale’s tail distracts the kids while the parents pop into Shelter Brewing Co .
The lofty beer hall is overlooked by a life-sized humpback whale mural, which is fitting as the floor doubles as a whale-watching spot. But nothing beats joining Naturaliste Charters on a tour of the bay where some 40,000 whales pass by from September to November.
Mothers escort their calves to southern feasting grounds as playful humpback pods demonstrate how to breach, tail and fin slap on the way. Watching it all unfold in Busselton’s calm waters is pure joy.
Geographe Bay is a top spot for whale watching. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)
Fleur Bainger is a freelance travel writer and journalism mentor who has been contributing to Australian Traveller since 2009! The thrill of discovering new, hidden and surprising things is what ignites her. She gets a buzz from sharing these adventures with readers, so their travels can be equally transformative.
From thundering waterfalls to ancient Indigenous art, Kimberley’s raw beauty will take your breath away.
Wild, pristine, and shaped by nature, the Kimberley Coast is one of Australia’s most spectacular landscapes. A remote and rugged frontier that remains a bucket list destination for many travellers. Its most breathtaking attractions – including Montgomery Reef, King George Falls and Horizontal Falls – are accessible only by sea or air, making a guided expedition cruise aboard Silversea’s luxury expedition ship, Silver Cloud, the ideal way to explore it.
From its intricate intertidal zones to ancient rock art, extreme tides and rare wildlife found nowhere else in Australia – or the world – this journey offers an unparalleled exploration of one of Earth’s last true wildernesses.
Why Silversea?
Silversea offers a 10-day expedition departing Broome, or an extended 16-day expedition voyage from Indonesia, including landings on the hidden gems of Palopo Sulawesi and Komodo. Accompanied by expert guides and specialists in marine biology, history and geology, guests gain a deeper understanding of the Kimberley’s dramatic landscapes, rich cultural heritage and extraordinary biodiversity.
Silversea offers one of the experiential travel industry’s leading crew-to-guest ratios. Along with all-suite accommodation (80 per cent with private verandah), 24-hour butler service, a swimming pool and four dining options. Silver Cloud also has an experienced crew of multilingual expedition guides and specialists in marine biology, history and geology to enhance your Kimberley Experience.
Take a dip in the pool deck.
1. Koolama Bay
Before visitors see King George Falls, they hear them – a growing rumble in the distance, steady and foreboding as the Zodiac glides through the gorge, the sound echoing off sheer rock formations. At 80 meters tall, the twin cascades carve through the red cliffs, churning the waters below in a spectacular finale – but Koolama Bay holds secrets beyond its striking scenery.
Named after a ship that beached here following an aerial attack by Japanese bombers in World War II, the bay may seem desolate, yet it teems with life. With Silversea’s expert guides on their 10-day Kimberley itinerary, guests gain a sharper eye for its hidden wonders – rock wallabies darting across the cliffs, crocodiles lurking among dense green mangroves, and high above, the silhouette of a bird of prey circling the sky.
Take a shore excursion to see King George Falls.
2. Freshwater Cove / Wijingarra Butt Butt
Connect with Country on a wet landing at Freshwater Cove, also known as Wijingarra Butt Butt. Considered one of the most special experiences on both the 16-day and 10-day Kimberley cruises, Silversea guests are welcomed by the traditional Indigenous custodians of the land, painted with traditional ochre, and invited to take part in a smoking ceremony.
Located on the mainland near Montgomery Reef, Wijingarra Butt Butt holds deep cultural significance to the local Indigenous community. Here, rock formations along the shore represent spiritual ancestors, and guests are guided to a nearby rock overhang filled with ancient art, where traditional owners share the stories and meaning behind these sacred paintings.
Take part in a smoking ceremony. (Image: Tim Faircloth)
3. Vansittart Bay (Jar Island)
Modern history, ancient culture and mystery converge in Vansittart Bay, which is also known as Jar Island. Here, the first thing to catch the eye is the dented, silver fuselage of a World War II-era C-53 plane – a striking relic of the past. Yet, the true cultural treasures lie just a short hike away where two distinct styles of Indigenous rock art – Gwion Gwion and Wandjina – can be found.
The Wandjina figures, deeply connected to Indigenous traditions, stand in stark contrast to the enigmatic Gwion Gwion (Bradshaw) paintings, which date back more than 12,000 years. Significantly different in form and style, the two different styles create a striking juxtaposition, offering a rare glimpse into the region’s rich and complex past.
Explore ancient Gwion Gwion rock art at Vansittart Bay. (Image: Janelle Lugge)
4. Horizontal Falls
Part illusion, part natural phenomenon, the Kimberley’s much-lauded Horizontal Falls aren’t a waterfall, but a tidal and geographic spectacle that visitors have to see to comprehend. Known as Garaanngaddim, the phenomenon occurs when seawater rushes through two narrow gaps- one just twenty metres wide, and the other seven metres in width, between the escarpments of Talbot Bay.
With each tidal shift,the force of the water creates whirlpools, furious currents and the illusion of a horizontal cascade as thousands of gallons of water are pushed and pulled in through the gap every six hours with relentless movement, making this one of the Kimberley ’s most mesmerising natural wonders.
Watch whirlpools and furious currents collide. (Image: Janelle Lugge)
5. Montgomery Reef
As the tide turns in Montgomery Reef, magic happens. With the Kimberley’s legendary tides varying up to ten metres, at low tide the submerged reef almost appears to rise from the depths: exposing up to four metres of the sandstone reef.
The impact is otherworldly: as the water drains, waterfalls cascade on either side of the channel,turtles left exposed scramble and dive, and fish leap in search of sanctuary in shallow pools. Meanwhile, the dinner bell rings for the migratory seabirds dugongs, reef sharks and dolphins that scavenge and feast in the area.
Using zodiacs, guests cruise through one of the world’s most significant inshore reef systems navigated by experienced guides, exploring the most intricate and fascinating parts of a 300-square-kilometre-wide biodiversity hotspot.
Witness seabirds, dolphins and reef sharks on the hunt.
6. Mitchell Falls by Helicopter
Experiencing the Kimberley by sea allows you to feel the power of the tides, but travelling by helicopter reveals the sandstone tapestry of the Kimberley, a landscape geologists believe is over 1.8 billion years old.
One of Silversea’s most popular optional excursions, guests who opt to fly into the interior from the onboard helipad soar up above the rust-coloured landscape of the Mitchell plateau, taking in one of Australia’s most scenic waterfalls: Mitchell Falls, a series of four emerald-coloured pools gently cascades into each other, before plunging down to the river below.
Seeing the landscape from above reveals a landscape weaved and shaped by the power of the freshwater wet season, juxtaposed to the constant lapping of the relentless and powerful tide on the coast.
See emerald pools cascade into the river below. (Image: Tim Faircloth)
7. Indigenous Art Caves, Wandjina Art
The Kimberley Region of Western Australia is home to some of the most striking and significant
Indigenous rock art in Australia. Dotted throughout the landscape are caves, cliffs and rock overhangs depicting the striking, ethereal image of Wandjina, the rainmaker spirit and creation being central to many of the Dreamtime stories in this region.
Some of the paintings are regularly repainted by traditional custodians, while others are believed to be over 4,000 years old. Each artwork serves as both a cultural record and a living connection to the past, offering a rare opportunity to engage with the enduring traditions of the Kimberley’s Indigenous communities.
Walk among cultural records preserved in stone. (Image: Tim Faircloth)
