Breakfast is served all day, every day at Mrs Jones Cafe , in what used to be the town’s butter factory. Secure a table in the garden, then wander around the adjoining art gallery while you wait for delights to arrive.
Where to craft
No, not the arts – Boston Brewing Co .’s brewpub is home to handcrafted beers worthy of the drive out of town. Bring the family and grab a shaded picnic table on the grass, in view of the large playground and sandpit.
Enjoy a brew with a vineyard view. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)
Where to bike
A purpose-built cycle trail edges along the clifftops looming over Lights Beach – the views are expansive and the traffic minimal. You can walk it, but only if you’re willing to react quickly if cyclists come flying along. Look down over glittering rockpools, the safest spots to swim along this rugged stretch of ocean.
Where to explore
Elephant Rocks, 100 metres to the left of showstopper Greens Pool, is just as magical yet half as busy. Follow the trail to rounded granite boulders that resemble a herd of elephants (only way bigger), then trot down steps to a narrow gap between rocks.
Walk assertively through it the moment the sea sucks out, and you’ll make it to a private beach without getting your shorts wet.
These giant granite boulders that resemble a herd of elephants lumbering out to sea. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)
Where to picnic
Throw down a rug, bring sandwiches and treat yourself to the breathtakingly good chardonnay at Singlefile Wines . The estate encourages BYO picnics on the grass, in view of the line of geese that roam, in single file, around the verdant vineyard.
Where to be mindful
Find peace some 40 metres high, in the canopy of 400-year-old tingle trees. The Valley of the Giants Tree Top Walk , 40 minutes’ drive from Denmark, rises gradually via soaring suspended steel bridges that sway in the breeze. Pause, breathe and be present.
Tackle the Valley of the Giants Tree Top Walk while in Denmark. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)
Where to roam
Strap in for an hour of visual marvels along the Mt Shadforth scenic drive. Let your eyes wander over stretches of leafy vines, up undulating hills and across verdant farmland, with the moody Stirling Ranges and Porongurup granite boulders on the horizon.
Where to stay
Soak in a custom concrete bath surrounded by ruler-straight, white-trunked trees at Upland Farm , or be seduced by the indoor – and outdoor – baths that are each designed to fit two at Stillwood Retreat .
Stillwood Retreat offers a bespoke stay among the trees.
Fleur Bainger is a freelance travel writer and journalism mentor who has been contributing to Australian Traveller since 2009! The thrill of discovering new, hidden and surprising things is what ignites her. She gets a buzz from sharing these adventures with readers, so their travels can be equally transformative.
This remote corner of Australia is one of the world’s last frontiers. This is how to see it properly.
Vast, rugged and deeply spiritual, the Kimberley coast in Australia’s North West feels a world away from everyday Australia – and there are countless ways to explore it. But if you want to reach ancient rock art, hidden gorges and lonely waterfalls, it has to be by boat. Whether you’re aboard a nimble expedition vessel or a luxury yacht with all the trimmings, exploring by the water brings exclusive experiences, shows unique views and makes travel easier than any other mode. And that’s just the beginning of Australia’s North West cruises.
Adventure starts where the road ends.
1. Discover Broome, and beyond
Explore your launchpad before you set sail: Broome. Here camels and their riders stride along the 22 kilometres of powdery Cable Beach at sunset. That’s just the start.
At Gantheaume Point, red pindan cliffs plunge into the turquoise sea, whose low tide uncovers fossilised dinosaur footprints. Broome’s pearling history runs deep. Japanese, Chinese, Malay and Aboriginal divers once worked these waters, and their legacy lives on in boutiques where South Sea pearls still shine.
If the moon’s right, you may catch the Staircase to the Moon over Roebuck Bay. Or simply kick back with a cold beverage and a film under the stars at Sun Pictures , screening since 1916.
Ride a camel along Cable Beach. (Image: Nick Dunn)
2. Unmatched access to The Kimberley
Once you’re onboard, expect a backstage pass to some of the most isolated places on Earth. No roads. No ports. No phone reception.
At Horizontal Falls/ Garaanngaddim, 10-metre tides surge through twin gorges like a natural waterpark ride that’ll make your palms sweat. Then there’s Montgomery Reef/ Yowjab: a giant living platform of coral and seagrass, where the sea pulls back to reveal waterfalls, sea turtles and ospreys.
Up north, King George Falls/ Oomari rage 80 metres down red cliffs. Zodiac boats often nudge in closer so you can feel the spray on your sun-warmed cheeks. You might even fly in to reach Mitchell Falls/ Punamii-unpuu, a four-tiered cascade where you can swim in freshwater pools above the drop.
Come spring, some itineraries veer west to Rowley Shoals: an atoll chain of white sand and reef walls. Then it’s up the winding Prince Regent River to King Cascade/ Maamboolbadda, tumbling over rock terraces, and into a Zodiac to view the Gwion Gwion rock art, whose slender, ochre-painted figures are older than the pyramids.
Get closer to the Kimberley than ever before.
3. Taste the Kimberley with onboard hospitality
You might spend your days clambering over slippery rocks or charging past waterfalls. But when you’re back on the water, it’s a different story. Meals are chef-prepared and regionally inspired: grilled barramundi, pearl meat sashimi, mango tarts, and bush tomato chutney. One night it’s barefoot beach barbecues with your shipmates; the next, alfresco dining on the ship.
Small expedition ships each have their own personality, but many carry just 12 to 36 guests, making being out on the water a whole other experience. You might sink into a spa on the foredeck or sip coffee in a lounge while watching crocodiles cruise by. It’s choose-your-own-relaxation, Kimberley style.
4. Expert-led excursions through the Kimberley
These voyages are led by people who know the Kimberley like the back of their sunburnt hand. Attenborough-esque naturalists might gently tap your shoulder to point out rare birds or tell the story beneath a slab of rock. Historians can explain exactly how that rusted World War II relic came to rest here.
If your ship has a helipad, you might chopper straight to a waterfall-fed swimming hole. If not, you’ll still be hopping ashore for that wet landing at a secret creek.
Then come the evenings: songlines shared by Traditional Owners under the stars, or astronomy sessions that link what’s overhead with what’s underfoot and what’s within.
Explore with naturalists and historians by your side.
5. Relax in luxurious lodgings
Just because you’re off-grid doesn’t mean you have to rough it. These Kimberley vessels are small in size, but mighty in luxury. True North’s ships come with their own helicopters and a no-sea-days policy, so you’re always in the thick of it. Try the luxurious offerings from Ocean Dream Charters for exploration in style. Kimberley Quest offers a fast boat for easy, off-ship adventures. On the larger end of the scale, Coral Expeditions has open-deck bars and curated wine cellars. And then there’s Ponant’s luxury yachts – sleek and incredibly stylish French sailing yachts.
See the Kimberley from sky to shore.
6. The adventure continues with pre- and post-cruise experiences
You’ve already come this far – so, why not go further? Broome makes it easy to ease in before you board, or wind down when your voyage ends, and there is no reason to stop there.
Head an hour and a half south to Eco Beach to stay off-grid and off the clock. Join a Yawuru guide for a mangrove walk or ocean forage. Dive even deeper into Broome’s pearling past at Willie Creek or Cygnet Bay, where divers and craftspeople still pull the seawater-slicked gems from the deep.
If you’re still craving adventure, it’s time to go further. Soar over the Buccaneer Archipelago, or detour inland with a 4WD trip along the Gibb River Road. Book a scenic flight over the Bungle Bungles. Or – because you never know when you’ll be back – do all three.
