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The best breakfast and brunch spots in Canberra locals actually rate

Where to find Canberra’s best breakfast and brunch, shaped by local favourites and informed by return visits.

It took multiple weekends away travelling the beach-to-country corridor between Sydney and Canberra to research the best places for breakfast in the ACT. And, in doing so, we’ve narrowed it down to a list that includes sprawling lobby restaurants, places to play ‘stacks on’ with a mound of pancakes and packed cafes that do a thoroughly decent avo on toast.

The Shortlist

Best pastries: The Pialligo Bakesmith
Family-Friendly Spot: Edgar’s
Best for Brunch: Wildflour Bakery
Best Design/Most Instagrammable: Patissez
Best For Large Groups: Good Neighbour
Best for Vegan/Vegetarian: Sweet Bones
Best Outdoor Dining: Urban Pantry

The best places for breakfast in Canberra

Breakfast is taken seriously in the nation’s capital. From bakeries worth lining up for to cafes that invite us to linger by the lake, here are the venues that deliver.

1. Space Kitchen

the exterior of Space Kitchen, Canberra
Stop by Space Kitchen for sweet treats. (Image: VisitCanberra)

Most of the best places for breakfast in Canberra feature French toast on the menu. Space Kitchen layers its version with strawberries, passionfruit curd, mascarpone and caramelised meringue. Space cadets are struck dumb with indecision when trying to choose between fritters or the full brekkie. The unicorn hotcake is a kiddie-pleasing sugar rush of maple custard, vanilla ice cream, waffle cone and fairy floss. Need a last-minute birthday cake in Canberra? Get the cookie monster cake for kids and Ferrero Rocher for ya fancy dinner party.

Cuisine: Willy Wonka-esque wonderful

Average price: $$$

Atmosphere:  Colourful and celebratory

Location: 12 Furzer Street (corner Of Furzer St &, Worgan St, Phillip ACT 2606

2. Edgar’s

the Edgar’s Inn rooftop cafe and bar
A serene spot for a hearty brunch. (Image: VisitCanberra)

A lot of Ainslie locals treat Edgar’s Inn as an extension of their living room. And it’s easy to see why. Edgar’s is part of a sprawling multi-venue space: there’s both indoor seating, a leafy courtyard and Wakefield’s Bar & Wine upstairs, one of the best bars in Canberra. But for daytime, Edgar’s remains a quietly excellent cafe and a contender for the best breakfast Canberra locals return to for brekkie rolls and coffee. The toasties made with Three Mills sourdough or smashed avo with goat’s feta and mint-parsley dukkah are also top options.

Cuisine: Mod Oz

Average price: $$$

Atmosphere: A double hit of excellent coffee and food makes for a buzzy cafe

Location: 1 Edgar St, Ainslie ACT 2602

3. Good Neighbour

breakfast with a matcha drink at Good Neighbour
Complement your breakfast with matcha-based drinks at Good Neighbour. (Image: Ben Calvert)

Residents of Kingston were thrilled to hear a Good Neighbour was moving into the ‘hood. Run by the team behind the long-time institution Gus’s Place, the light-filled cafe feels as relaxed and welcoming as its predecessor. The menu leans into comforting classics done well like huevos rancheros, shakshouka, ricotta hotcakes and chilli crab folded eggs. There is pet-friendly seating and the interiors are softened by eucalyptus greens and warm, earthy tones.

Cuisine: Expect global influences

Average price: $$$

Atmosphere: A place to escape the city

Location: 1/55 Wentworth Ave, Kingston ACT 2604

4. ONA Coffee House

swan latte art at ONA Coffee House
Sip on top-notch coffee. (Image: VisitCanberra)

You can’t write about the best cafes in Canberra without including ONA Coffee House , founded by world-champion barista Saša Šestić. The brand helped forge the city’s reputation for specialty coffee and offers barista training and roasting for those who take their bean hunting seriously. This Fyshwick venue attracts serious caff-fiends, industry folk and locals who converge here to pair ONA’s award-winning coffee with pulled pork benedict on garlic butter focaccia or huevos rotos layered with chorizo and paprika.

Cuisine:  Exceptional brunch options

Average price: $$$

Atmosphere:  Relaxing space for coffee lovers

Location: 68 Wollongong St, Fyshwick ACT 2603

5. Wildflour Bakery

the coffee counter at Wildflour Bakery
Wildflour Bakery is industrial chic. (Image: VisitCanberra)

This industrial-chic cafe is one of the best places to eat with kids in Canberra. The artisan bakery has a courtyard near to play equipment, which keeps kids happy while waiting for their food. Take your pick between breads with spreads, eggs benedict with herbed potato rosti and sautéed spinach. Get your caffeine fix with a cup of ONA coffee and pick up some bread to go. Wildflour is the place I consistently mention when talking about the best breakfast spots in Canberra.

Cuisine: Baked goods and beyond (think Japanese chicken burgers, Snickers smoothies and Spanish eggs)

Average price: $$$

Atmosphere: It’s giving handsome Fyshwick warehouse

Location: 8 Townsville Street, Fyshwick, ACT 2609

6. The Pialligo Bakesmith

Set amid sprawling gardens, this leafy cafe with indoor and outdoor seating is oriented toward the greenery. It’s a calm and quiet place to sit and savour a coffee and pastry away from the bustle of Canberra. Pastries are the headline act here, including a cinnamon scroll crowned Australia’s best, alongside a brunch menu of chilli scrambled eggs, quiche, French toast and pancakes. The pace is unhurried and the setting feels restorative. Devour a few cinnamon scrolls, then take a box of chocolate hazelnut escargot to go.

Cuisine: Artisan bakery fare

Average price: $$$

Atmosphere: Quiet and calm with a lovely leafy outlook

Location: Beltana Rd, Pialligo ACT 2609

7. Little Oink

brunch at Little Oink
Little Oink serves up quality coffee and classic brunch options. (Image: Zachary Griffith)

A quick browse of the Little Oink menu presents perfectly pun-tastic options like the Oinko Burger, Got Beef, and the Keep it Simple Stupid option of eggs your way on sourdough. You can also plump for the Pimp my Meal option, where you can pick and choose additions such as marinated haloumi and gluten-free toast. The hum of conversation at Little Oink is pleasant and comfortable and it’s the sort of lovely light-filled cafe that you wish existed in your neighbourhood.

Cuisine: Fresh, honest pork-forward food

Average price: $$$

Atmosphere: Comfortable suburban favourite

Location: 22 Cook Pl, Cook ACT 2614

8. Sonoma

Canberrans take their bakeries seriously. You’ll see them bonding over their teacup poodles while standing in line at this artisanal bakery in Lonsdale. Expect all the usual suspects on the menu: cultured butter croissants, pain au chocolat, almond croissants and Portuguese custard tarts. Grab a kalamata olive sourdough to go before exploring the national capital. Each handcrafted loaf of artisanal sourdough takes 36 hours to make, so my recommendation is the signature Sonoma ham croque forno baguette. A morning bun with a coffee on the side is also a good option.

Cuisine:  Pastries and baked items like baguette sangas

Average price: $$$

Atmosphere: Endlessly inviting

Location: 1/21 Lonsdale St, Braddon ACT 2601

9. B-Side

Locals obsessed with caffeine peg B-Side to be one of the best places for coffee in Canberra. And I’ve lost count of how many times my mornings in Canberra have started here. If you’re in Canberra for business for at least 72 hours, you might want to duck in during the day when high-profile pollies come to get their caffeine buzz on. I’m a huge fan of the toasted sourdough topped with cucumber, peanut butter and chilli oil. Campbell sister caff Intra is also worth a visit.

Cuisine: Slabs of sourdough topped with inventive creations and salads and toasties

Average price: $$$

Location: G01/35 Lonsdale St, Braddon, ACT 2612

10. Monster Kitchen & Bar

a full vegetarian menu at Monster Kitchen & Bar, Canberra
Monster Kitchen & Bar is renowned for its focus on local, seasonal produce. (Image: Zachary Griffith)

I’ve enjoyed breakfast at Monster at Ovolo Nishi many times while visiting family in Canberra and it always feels like a special treat. The colourful design-forward hotel in the NewActon precinct is one of the best hotels in Canberra and draws a steady crowd for brekkie. As the name suggests, Monster is a behemoth of a venue. It’s also cosy, colourful and quirky. The menu at Monster is no longer plant-based, but vegetarians are still well cared for. The seasonal fruit plate with yoghurt is stellar. And the Nishi breakfast burger elite.

Cuisine: Mod Oz

Average price: $$

Atmosphere: Whimsical and eclectic as the crowd

Location: Ground/25 Edinburgh Ave, Canberra ACT 2601

The best places for brunch in Canberra

The following list of the best brunches Canberra offers is sure to satisfy, with everything from freak shakes to brekkie burgers. Tuck in.

11. Mocan & Green Grout

poached eggs on toast with coffee and water at Mocan & Green Grout
Tuck into a healthy brekkie at Mocan and Green Grout. (Image: VisitCanberra)

Some of the city’s hippest bars, cafes and restaurants are in the NewActon precinct. Mocan & Green Grout is one of them. The leafy, courtyard-style cafe is so colourful it’s like walking into a rainbow. Sit at the bar and watch the chefs plating up with precision at the pass. The cafe doesn’t just walk a line between grungy and cool, it positively struts. Secure a spot at the concrete countertop for favourites such as the avocado and chevre on sourdough which secures its spot among the best breakfasts Canberra regulars swear by.

Cuisine: Considered cafe fare

Average price: $$$

Atmosphere: The cafe hums with colour and texture

Location: 1/19 Marcus Clarke St, Canberra ACT 2601

12. Cup & Coaster

the cafe interior of Cup & Coaster, Fyshwick
Pull up a chair at Cup & Coaster to try the Filipino-inspired tapsilog.

Located in the quasi-industrial fringes of Canberra, Fyshwick is where you will find places like Capital Brewing Co. one of the best places for a beer in Canberra and cafes like Cup & Coaster, which has loads of charm. The French toast arrives stacked with seasonal fruits, vanilla ice cream, roasted almonds, butterscotch sauce and mango sauce. Those who prefer savoury flavours will gravitate toward the all-day Filipino-inspired tapsilog, comprising filo-marinated dry beef, garlic rice and fried egg. Burn off the calories with a lap around Lake Burley Griffin, one of the best things to do in Canberra.

Cuisine: Asian fusion

Average price: $$$

Atmosphere: Rustic charm

Location: Unit 2/64 Wollongong St, Fyshwick ACT 2609

13. The Cupping Room

the cafe interior of The Cupping Room Canberra
The Cupping Room is known for brewing some of the best coffee in Canberra. (Image: VisitCanberra)

You’d be hard-pressed to find a better brew in the morning than at The Cupping Room where world-champion barista Sasa Sestic is behind your freshly ground ONA Coffee beans. I still make a point of coming here early when I’m in town to claim a spot among the bearded, nose-ringed crowd. The cafe has well and truly conquered Canberra and is known for brewing some the best coffee in Canberra. Geek out over an ONA education, then cap it off with toast topped with a mushroom medley or garlic prawn chilli scram.

Cuisine: Contemporary Australian riffs on classics

Average price: $$$

Atmosphere:  Snug and sophisticated

Location: 1/1-13 University Ave, Canberra ACT 2601

14. Doubleshot

coffee and breakfast at Doubleshot
Tuck into hotcakes and sip amazing coffee at Doubleshot. (Image: VisitCanberra)

Locate Doubleshot by looking for its ivy-clad walls, which have dressed up Deakin Court. The food here makes this one of the best cafes in Canberra. It’s a lovely place to brunch before or after visiting the National Gallery of Australia, one of the most popular attractions in Canberra. Yes of course, they have smashed avo, levelled up with pickled chilli, almond dukkah, Meredith feta, coriander, lime and turmeric dressing. The apple crumble porridge is my decadent dish of the day. Plant yourself at an al fresco table.

Cuisine: Mod Oz

Average price: $$$

Atmosphere: Community vibes

Location: Shop/7 Hopetoun Cct, Deakin ACT 2600

15. Sweet Bones

Emily and Russell Brindley of Sweet Bones understand vegans don’t always want to be virtuous. The cafe’s cinnamon scrolls have a cult following as does the Rusty McMuffin Meal with tofu scramble. The cafe gives off a creative energy thanks to its artfully dishevelled customers who gather around the canteen-style tables and chairs. Try the towering nacho mountain dolloped with cilantro sour cream and avocado, or the New Orleans po boy. Whatever you try, you’ll vow to return to work your way through the menu, which does right by local producers.

Cuisine: Tex Mex but make it vegan

Average price: $$$

Atmosphere: Hippie-chic

Location: 3 Scullin Place, Scullin ACT 2614

16. Silo Bakery

coffee and pastries with water at Silo Bakery
Sweet treats are made onsite. (Image: Kara Rosenlund/VisitCanberra)

Head east to Silo Bakery in Kingston for chilli jam poached eggs or freshly baked tasca bread stuffed with mortadella, ricotta, pistachio and roquette. The best part of enjoying breakfast at a bakery is that all the breads and pastries are freshly made onsite. Described as “part Brooklyn, part wartime Parisian bakery…" by the NY Times – it’s certainly one of the best bakeries in Canberra. The question is: how are you going to decide what to indulge in? A croissant with smoked ham and Maasdam cheese or the Gruyère omelette?

Cuisine: Freshly baked bread and treats

Average price: $$$

Atmosphere: Elegant working interiors with wooden tables and polished concrete

Location: 36 Giles St, Kingston ACT 2604

17. Ricardo’s Cafe

It’s easy to fall into a scroll hole while admiring the eye-popping colours that season Ricardo Cafe’s Instagram page . But visiting here for a lazy weekend brunch in Canberra is way better than the virtual experience. Ricardo’s is a great place for a gatho with gusto. The coconut hotcakes and French toast sound simple, but they are really works of art. Zucchini fritters are also memorable, given heft with the addition of poached eggs, and made pretty with beetroot sauce, carrot puree, smashed avocado, grilled zucchini and two poached eggs.

Cuisine: Mod Oz meets mod Med

Average price: $$$

Atmosphere: Fun, loud, vibey

Location: Jamison Plaza, 1 Bowman St, Macquarie ACT 2614

18. Intra

coffee at Intra
Get your caffeine fix at Intra. (Image: VisitCanberra)

You’re as likely to find academics as students tapping away on their laptops at Intra . The cafe is dedicated to enjoying seasonal ingredients. Make your first meal of the morning substantial with a kimchi jaffle or granola with coconut yoghurt and seasonal coffee. Buy a great literary work or brainstorm your next novel at this convivial cafe, which celebrates Canberra’s cafe culture. Vegans and vegos are also catered to. Take your extrovert mate along so they can wax lyrical about the bolognese jaffle, another must-try menu item.

Cuisine:  Mod Oz

Average price: $$

Atmosphere: Bookish and bustling

Location: 30/12 Provan St, Campbell ACT 2612

19. Patissez

a gourmet dessert at Patissez
Sink your teeth into the signature desserts at Patissez. (Image: VisitCanberra)

Patissez was launched into the stratosphere through social media thanks to the ‘freak shake’, which kick-started the trend around the world. The cafe deserves kudos for creating infernally evil concoctions such as the Super Chocolate Fudge freak shake, which is served pelted with cookie crumbs. But it’s not all chocolate-free pours and fudge by the litre. The cafe also causes Insta chaos with its tried-and-tested Tijuana tacos and loaded breakfast burgers. There are also low-key options such as hotcakes and avo and Danish feta smash.

Cuisine: Cafe food with a cult following on the side

Average price: $$$

Atmosphere: It’s all sunshine and good times

Location: Unit 3/21 Bougainville St, Griffith ACT 2603

20. Local Press

One of the best things to do in Canberra is hire an electric GoBoat. Local Press doesn’t open until 8am, so you have ample time to pootle about in the water before arriving in style at Local Press on the Kingston Foreshore .

Mingle with pet owners who are here with their pooches on the deck overlooking the water. Local Press is all exposed bricks, flower-filled vases and ferns spilling out of baskets. Sit outside on a sun-splashed day to enjoy roasted granola with lemongrass pannacotta, seasonal fruits and mango puree.

Cuisine:  Mod Oz with Mediterranean influences

Average price: $$$

Atmosphere: The rustic café has a communal table at its heart and is all warm vibes by the water

Location: Cnr Eastlake Parade & Giles Street, Kingston Foreshore, ACT 2604

21. Urban Pantry

the cafe interior of Urban Pantry, Canberra
The cosy cafe gets updated with the seasons. (Image: VisitCanberra)

Urban Pantry is a popular brunch spot for families, couples and groups of friends who sprawl on the deck overlooking Manuka Lawns. The leafy, sun-dappled cafe offers up a menu that is more Melbourne than Manuka and updates with the seasons. And you’d do well to give it a whirl. The special all-day menu is dedicated to staples such as corn fritters and blueberry hotcakes. Say bye-bye to your hangover with an Urban Burger stuffed with a fried egg, Brindabella bacon, cheddar, relish, hash brown and aioli.

Cuisine: Contemporary Australian

Average price: $$$

Atmosphere:  Comfortable and stylish

Location: 5 Bougainville St, Griffith ACT 2603

22. The Knox Made in Watson

I wish there was a cafe like The Knox Made in Watson when I lived in nearby Hackett. Wander past and you will be lured in by the aroma of loaded croissants being warmed in the oven. The cafe with the sunny courtyard in Watson shops is a reliable fave, filled with locals catching up over coffee and families winding down after weekend sport. The all-day menu spans everything from Mexican baked eggs with beans and chorizo to flatbread topped with labneh, mushrooms, kale and dukkah.

Cuisine:  Nourishing food that relies on local suppliers

Average price: $$

Atmosphere: Cosy, community hub

Location: Shop 1/13 Watson Pl, Watson ACT 2602

23. Penny University

the Penny University cafe in Canberra
Penny University is an all-day brunch spot. (Image: VisitCanberra)

Crawl around the Kingston precinct in Canberra until you reach Penny University Coffee House, which serves righteous brunch options such as French toast, topped with strawberries and cream. As well as the smoothies and freshly squeezed juices, there are brunch cocktails to take the edge off. The all-day breakfast menu also includes an okonomiyaki savoury pancake and Bircher muesli. The coffeehouse is named after London’s Penny Universities from the 17th century when it only cost a penny to enter and created a unique social environment.

Cuisine: Considered café fare

Average price: $$$

Atmosphere: It’s not just for beardy hipsters; everyone is welcome.

Location: 15 Kennedy St, Kingston ACT 2604

24. Eighty Twenty

Eighty Twenty just opened its 9th venue in Canberra. Located on the spot that was previously known as Nicky’s in Dickson, Eighty Twenty is the kind of place made for a power brunch. Look to the specials board for inspiration and hook into savoury brunch options such as the green eggs with beans, chilli prawn croissant and burrito bowl. Catch up over coffee at the cool cafe where you can sit alongside inner-urbanites and uni students who appreciate the neighbourhood vibes.

Cuisine: Fusion cafe fare

Average price: $$$

Atmosphere: Busy, buzzy neighbourhood hub

Location:  28 Challis St, Dickson ACT 2602

Carla Grossetti
Carla Grossetti avoided accruing a HECS debt by accepting a cadetship with News Corp. at the age of 18. After completing her cadetship at The Cairns Post Carla moved south to accept a position at The Canberra Times before heading off on a jaunt around Canada, the US, Mexico and Central America. During her career as a journalist, Carla has successfully combined her two loves – of writing and travel – and has more than two decades experience switch-footing between digital and print media. Carla’s CV also includes stints at delicious., The Sydney Morning Herald, and The Australian, where she specialises in food and travel. Carla also based herself in the UK where she worked at Conde Nast Traveller, and The Sunday Times’ Travel section before accepting a fulltime role as part of the pioneering digital team at The Guardian UK. Carla and has been freelancing for Australian Traveller for more than a decade, where she works as both a writer and a sub editor.
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This scenic Victorian region is the perfect antidote to city life

    Craig TansleyBy Craig Tansley

    Video credit: Visit Victoria/Tourism Australia

    The Grampians just might be the ultimate antidote for the metropolis, writes one returning Aussie ready to disconnect from the modern world and reconnect to the Great outdoors.

    There are no kangaroos back in Chicago: they’re all here in the Grampians/Gariwerd . In the heart of the Grampians National Park’s main gateway town, Halls Gap, pods of eastern greys are eating grass beside my parked rental car beneath the stars. Next morning, when I see the backyard of my rented villa on the edge of town for the first time, there are kangaroos feeding beside a slow-moving creek, lined with river red gums.

    Five hundred metres up the road, 50 or so of them are eating by the side of the road in a paddock. I pull over to watch and spot three emus. Yellow-tailed black cockatoos fly overhead towards the tall green mountains just beyond town.

    ‘Kee-ow, keee-oww’… their calls fuse with the maniacal cackle of a kookaburra (or 10). Gawd, how I’ve missed the sound of them. Far above, a wedge-tailed eagle watches, and there you go: the ‘great birds of Australia’ trifecta, all half a kay from the town limits.

    Exchanging city chaos for country calm

    kangaroos near Halls Gap, Grampians National Park
    The park is renowned for its significant diversity of native fauna species. (Image: Visit Victoria/Robert Blackburn)

    I’ve come to the Grampians to disconnect, but the bush offers a connection of its own. This isn’t just any bush, mind you. The Grampians National Park is iconic for many reasons, mostly for its striking sandstone mountains – five ridges run north to south, with abrupt, orange slopes which tumble right into Halls Gap – and for the fact there’s 20,000 years of traditional rock art. Across these mountains there are more than 200 recorded sites to see, created by the Djab Wurrung, Jardwadjali and Gunditjmara peoples. It’s just like our outback… but three hours from Melbourne.

    I’ve come here for a chance at renewal after the chaos of my life in America’s third-largest city, Chicago, where I live for now, at the whim of a relative’s cancer journey. Flying into Melbourne’s airport, it only takes an hour’s drive to feel far away from any concept of suburbia. When I arrive in Halls Gap two hours later, the restaurant I’m eating at clears out entirely by 7:45pm; Chicago already feels a lifetime ago.

    The trails and treasures of the Grampians

    sunrise at Grampians National Park /Gariwerd
    Grampians National Park /Gariwerd covers almost 2000 square kilometres. (Image: Ben Savage)

    Though the national park covers almost 2000 square kilometres, its best-known landmarks are remarkably easy to access. From my carpark here, among the cockatoos and kangaroos on the fringe of Halls Gap, it only takes 60 seconds’ driving time before I’m winding my way up a steep road through rainforest, deep into the mountains.

    Then it’s five minutes more to a carpark that serves as a trailhead for a hike to one of the park’s best vantage points, The Pinnacles . I walk for an hour or so, reacquainting myself with the smells and the sounds of the Aussie bush, before I reach it: a sheer cliff’s edge lookout 500 metres up above Halls Gap.

    walking through a cave, Hollow Mountain
    Overlooking the vast Grampians landscape from Hollow Mountain. (Image: Robert Blackburn)

    There are hikes and there are lookouts and waterfalls all across this part of the park near town. Some are a short stroll from a carpark; others involve long, arduous hikes through forest. The longest is the Grampians Peaks Trail , Victoria’s newest and longest iconic walk, which runs 160 kilometres – the entire length of Grampians National Park.

    Local activities operator Absolute Outdoors shows me glimpses of the trail. The company’s owner, Adrian Manikas, says it’s the best walk he’s done in Australia. He says he’s worked in national parks across the world, but this was the one he wanted to bring his children up in.

    “There’s something about the Grampians,” he says, as he leads me up a path to where there’s wooden platforms for tents, beside a hut looking straight out across western Victoria from a kilometre up in the sky (these are part of the guided hiking options for the trail). “There are things out here that you won’t see anywhere else in Australia.” Last summer, 80 per cent of the park was damaged by bushfire, but Manikas shows me its regrowth, and tells me of the manic effort put in by volunteers from town – with firefighters from all over Australia – to help save Halls Gap.

    wildflowers in Grampians National Park
    Spot wildflowers. (Image: Visit Victoria)

    We drive back down to Halls Gap at dusk to abseil down a mountain under the stars, a few minutes’ walk off the main road into town. We have headlamps, but a full moon is enough to light my way down. It takes blind faith to walk backwards down a mountain into a black void, though the upside is I can’t see the extent of my descent.

    Grampians National Park at sunset
    Grampians National Park at sunset. (Image: Wine Australian)

    The stargazing is ruined by the moon, of course, but you should see how its glow lights up the orange of the sandstone, like in a theme park. When I’m done, I stand on a rocky plateau drinking hot chocolate and listening to the Aussie animals who prefer nighttime. I can see the streets of Halls Gap off in the distance on this Friday night. The restaurants may stay open until 8pm tonight.

    What else is on offer in The Grampians?

    a boat travelling along the Wimmera River inDimboola
    Travelling along the Wimmera River in Dimboola. (Image: Chris McConville)

    You’ll find all sorts of adventures out here – from rock climbing to canoeing to hiking – but there’s more to the Grampians than a couple of thousand square kilometres of trees and mountains. Halls Gap may be known to most people, but what of Pomonal, and Dimboola, and Horsham? Here in the shadow of those big sandstone mountains there are towns and communities most of us don’t know to visit.

    And who knew that the Grampians is home to Victoria’s most underrated wine region ? My disconnection this morning comes not in a forest, but in the tasting rooms and winery restaurants of the district. Like Pomonal Estate, barely 10 minutes’ drive east of Halls Gap, where UK-born chef Dean Sibthorp prepares a locally caught barramundi with lentil, pumpkin and finger lime in a restaurant beside the vines at the base of the Grampians. Husband-and-wife team Pep and Adam Atchison tell me stories as they pour their prize wines (shiraz is the hero in these parts).

    dining at Pomonal Estate
    Dine in a restaurant beside vines at Pomonal Estate. (Image: Tourism Australia)

    Three minutes’ drive back down the road, long-time mates Hadyn Black and Darcy Naunton run an eclectic cellar door out of a corrugated iron shed, near downtown Pomonal. The Christmas before last, half the houses in Pomonal burnt down in a bushfire, but these locals are a resilient lot.

    The fires also didn’t stop the construction of the first art centre in Australia dedicated to environmental art in a nature-based precinct a little further down the road (that’s Wama – the National Centre for Environmental Arts), which opened in July. And some of the world’s oldest and rarest grape vines have survived 160 years at Best’s Wines, outside the heritage town of Great Western. There’s plantings here from the year 1868, and there’s wines stored in century-old barrels within 150-year-old tunnels beneath the tasting room. On the other side of town, Seppelt Wines’ roots go back to 1865. They’re both only a 30-minute drive from Halls Gap.

    Salingers of Great Western
    Great Western is a charming heritage town. (Image: Griffin Simm)

    There’s more to explore yet; I drive through tiny historic towns that barely make the map. Still part of the Grampians, they’re as pretty as the mountains behind them: full of late 19th-century/early 20th-century post offices, government offices and bank buildings, converted now to all manner of bric-a-brac stores and cafes.

    The Imaginarium is one, in quirky Dimboola, where I sleep in the manager’s residence of an old National Australia Bank after a gourmet dinner at the local golf club, run by noted chef and teacher, Cat Clarke – a pioneer of modern Indigenous Australian cooking. Just south, I spend an entire afternoon at a winery, Norton Estate Wines, set on rolling calico-coloured hills that make me think of Tuscany, chit-chatting with owners Chris and Sam Spence.

    Being here takes me back two decades, when I lived here for a time. It had all seemed as foreign as if I’d driven to another planet back then (from Sydney/Warrane), but there seemed something inherently and immediately good about this place, like I’d lived here before.

    And it’s the Australian small-town familiarity of the Grampians that offers me connection back to my own country. Even in the better-known Halls Gap, Liz from Kerrie’s Creations knows I like my lattes with soy milk and one sugar. And while I never do get the name of the lady at the local Ampol station, I sure know a lot about her life.

    Kookaburras on a tree
    Kookaburras are one of some 230 bird species. (Image: Darren Donlen)

    You can be a local here in a day; how good is that? In Chicago, I don’t even know who my neighbour is. Though each day at dusk – when the kangaroos gather outside my villa, and the kookaburras and the black cockatoos shout out loud before settling in to sleep – I prefer the quieter connection I get out there in the bush, beneath these orange mountains.

    A traveller’s checklist

    Staying there

    Sleep beside the wildlife on the edge of Halls Gap at Serenity .

    Playing there

    abseiling down Hollow Mountain
    Hollow Mountain is a popular abseiling site.

    Go abseiling under the stars or join a guided hike with Absolute Outdoors . Visit Wama , Australia’s first environmental art centre. Check out Dimboola’s eccentric Imaginarium .

    Eating there

    steak, naan bread and beer at Paper Scissors Rock in Halls Gap
    Paper Scissors Rock in Halls Gap serves a great steak on naan bread.

    Eat world-class cuisine at Pomonal Estate . Dine and stay at much-revered icon Royal Mail Hotel in Dunkeld. The ‘steak on naan’ at Halls Gap brewhouse Paper Scissors Rock , can’t be beat.

    Dunkeld Arboretum in Grampians National Park
    The serene Dunkeld Arboretum.

    For Halls Gap’s best breakfasts head to Livefast Cafe . Sip local wines at Great Western’s historic wineries, Best’s Wines , Seppelt Wines and Norton Estate Wines .

    two glasses of beer at Paper Scissors Rock in Halls Gap
    Sink a cold one at Paper Scissors Rock.