The zoo stay with all the creature comforts

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A unique hotel in Canberra, Jamala Wildlife Lodge, lets you stay alongside some of the rarest animals on the planet (By: Leigh Ann Pow)

One of the many reasons that people check in to hotels is a little solitude from the Sturm und Drang of everyday life. But lying in my luxuriously appointed hotel room in the dead of night.

 

I am almost willing the silence to be broken.

 

And then I hear it, an almighty commotion from the room next door. It’s hard to tell if it’s an argument and at any other hotel I’d be demanding that the disturbance be dealt with, but instead I just lie there in awe.

 

You see, the occupants of Bungalow 1 next door are not quarrelling newlyweds, they are a pride of lions. It’s the kind of experience that safari camps in Africa pride themselves on delivering.

 

But I’m not in Africa. My 11-year-old and I are at Jamala Wildlife Lodge, a 10-minute drive from the centre of Canberra.

 

Part of the privately owned National Zoo and Aquarium, Jamala Wildlife Lodge is the passion project of Richard and Maureen Tindale, who, in 1998, bought an aquarium and small native wildlife park after it went into receivership.

 

Almost immediately they set about expanding the property, with a mission of housing animals in as comfortable surroundings as possible, aiming for best practice when it came to animal welfare.

 

Many of the animals they initially brought into the zoo had spent their lives in circuses and were in desperate need of love. In the 17 years since, the zoo has continued to take in animals in dire straits, growing in size and contributing to international breeding programs, while educating visitors on the importance of wildlife conservation.

 

The lodge offers guests the chance to spend time with some of the most endangered animals in the world, from the comfort of five-star facilities. All of the rooms scattered around the zoo are directly adjacent to an animal enclosure, with just floor-to-ceiling walls of glass separating man from beast.

 

The rooms in the central uShaka Lodge overlook the likes of lemur, hyena, shark, and cheetah; six Giraffe Treehouses allow guests to feed the resident giraffe, Hummer, from their balconies; and the Jungle Bungalows look out over lions, cheetah, tiger and brown bear (conversely the animals can look in at the humans, including in the bath).

 

Our room, Bungalow 2, is directly adjacent to the Malayan Sun Bear enclosure, and when we enter (walking past a cute as a button red panda munching on bamboo) we find Arataki, the man of the house, sprawled outside the window determinedly working his way into a coconut with his enormous claws.

 

His partner Otay was rescued from Cambodia where she was being held in a cage until she was old enough to be sold to a restaurant – their paws are made into soup. It is impossible not to be totally transfixed, given that a Malayan sun bear is mere centimetres away.

 

Later at dinner, which is taken as a group safari-style back at uShaka Lodge, the zoo’s keepers coax a pair of white lions up into an enclosure on the verandah where pre-dinner drinks are taken.

 

The majestic beasts are close enough to reach out and touch (not advisable). While this kind of encounter may seem contrived and the opposite to being ‘in the wild’, many of these animals have never actually been in the wild.

 

It is a fact that hits home the next morning when we set out on a behind-the-scenes tour of the zoo. We stop at the Sumatran tiger enclosure and hear about their plight: deforestation in pursuit of money from palm oil harvesting is wiping out the big cat’s habitat at a sickening rate. In a mere 20 years, the only place you will be able to see these tigers is in zoos; they will be totally extinct in the wild.

 

And that’s where the gimmick of sleeping next to lions and tigers and bears becomes a serious attempt to stem the tragic flow of animals that are endangered. The funds raised from the room rates at Jamala go straight back into the zoo, allowing it to continue to strengthen its breeding program.

 

As we wrench ourselves away from Arataki and Otay to check out of our room in the late morning we glimpse the young couple who spent the previous night beside the raucous lion family. Like most of the other guests they look happy, if not just a little tired.

 

More information:

 

See JamalaWildlife Lodge

 

Finding the cool in Canberra

 

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8 iconic ways to experience the Murray

No matter your interests, you’re bound to find a unique and utterly memorable experience along the mighty Murray River.

Along the Murray River lies a network of towns that are at once intertwined and wildly diverse. Linked by the legendary waterway yet strikingly distinct, each has its own personality, pace and collection of experiences you won’t soon forget.

1. On the river

fishermen on Lake Mulwala
Get out onto the pretty Lake Mulwala. (Credit: Visit Victoria)

A visit to the region wouldn’t be complete without a jaunt on the iconic river. If you’re something of an adventurer, Lake Mulwala – an inlet on the Murray – is perennially popular for all kinds of watersports. Glide among ghost gums on a kayak or stand up paddleboard, or pick up the pace by waterskiing or windsurfing.

For a more relaxed (but no less immersive) river experience, hop on board one of the famed paddle steamers. Departing from Echuca Moama, Swan Hill and Yarrawonga Mulwala, these historic boats provide a nostalgic view of the Murray.

2. First Nations culture

Yindyamarra Sculpture Walk, murray river
Wander the Yindyamarra Sculpture Walk.

The river is a meeting place of ancient cultures, home to over 50 First Nations clans and an integral part of their communities, storytelling and way of life.

To learn more about the Traditional Owners, take yourself on a guided stroll through the Wagirra Trail. Situated in Albury/Wiradjuri country, the trail passes through red gum forest, riverside wetlands and the Yindyamarra Sculpture Walk.

Alternatively, visit the Dharnya Centre in the heart of Barmah National Park on Yorta Yorta country. The centre tells the history and stories of the Yorta Yorta people, offering guided walking tours and cruises.

3. Delicious eats

the Mildura Boat House
Savour a relaxed riverside meal at Mildura Boat House.

For a representative taste of the Murray’s epicurean highlights, a few destinations are well worth your time (and appetite).

Opa in Echuca is a local staple, serving up authentic and bold Greek dishes in lively surrounds. Greek not your thing? The twin towns of Echuca Moama have numerous top-notch drinking and dining spots to choose from and an ever-evolving food scene.

In Albury, the River Deck Cafe is perched right on the river, delivering scenic vistas and a vibrant daytime menu. Expect lemon meringue waffles or Green Goddess smashed avo for breakfast, or a zippy duck salad with Southeast Asian flavours for lunch. For more waterfront dining options, head to Mildura Boathouse . Enjoy iconic views and a modern Australian menu focused on local producers and wines.

4. Hiking and biking trails

two people on bikes at Lake Boga
Discover the Murray Region on two wheels. (Credit: Ewen Bell)

The best ways to experience the Murray’s surrounding landscapes are on foot or by bike. Luckily, plenty of well-marked trails take you through the diverse scenery.

The Mildura Riverfront has a shared path for both walkers and cyclists, connecting the town centre with a string of parks and lookouts. The path lets you take in the entire town and its distinctive terrain at a leisurely pace, and is relatively flat throughout.

For a more challenging experience, head to the Huon Hill Parklands or Nail Can Hill Reserve in Albury Wodonga. Both feature a varied network of bushwalking and mountain biking trails through undulating terrain.

5. Best views along The Murray

swan at wonga wetlands in the murray
Spot the birdlife at Wonga Wetlands. (Credit: Visit Albury Wodonga)

The Murray region is perhaps unsurprisingly a prime destination for epic vistas. The Wonga Wetlands just outside Albury are an aquatic feast for the eyes, a winding web of billabongs and lagoons. Take a stroll through the tranquil landscape and see if you can spot one of the more than 170 bird species living within.

Stop by Moama Beach at sunset to catch the dazzling display. Vivid hues of pink, amber and gold flare against a backdrop of river red gum trees and are reflected in the river’s glassy waters.

Head away from the Murray itself, 15 mins from Albury Wodonga, for stunning mountain views at Lake Hume. Or head to Gunbower National Park, a picturesque place boasting a diverse wonderland of waterbirds, wildlife and aquatic plants.

6. Art and culture

People viewing art at Murray Art Museum.
Immerse yourself in art at the MAMA, Albury. (Tourism Australia)

The region’s diverse mix of galleries, museums and cultural hubs provides a window into its past and present.

One of the most prominent is Murray Art Museum Albury (MAMA), which has a rotating roster of contemporary exhibitions. The Burrajara Gallery is another Albury gem, with a powerful collection of works from local First Nations artists.

There are several smaller museums and galleries scattered across Echuca Moama and Mildura reflecting the artistic depth of the Murray. Popular picks include The Foundry Arts Space and Customs House Gallery in Echuca Moama, and the Arts Centre, Riverfront Gallery and NAP Contemporary in Mildura.

7. Murray Region Events

band on stage at Riverboats Music Festival
Time your trip around one fo the regions live music events. (Credit: Riverboats Music Festival)

Each year, the Murray hosts events as unique and characterful as the region itself.

The Massive Murray Paddle takes place every November, a 415-kilometre, five-day river paddle raising money for local charities. Whether you take part in a canoe, kayak, stand up paddleboard or boat, or watch from the riverbanks, you’ll be in for a memorable experience.

If you’re a music lover, you’re in luck throughout the year. In summer, plan a trip for Riverboats Music Festival . And in the cooler months, head to the Echuca Moama Winter Blues Festival for four days of performances across different venues.

8. Best stays along The Murray

the Cozy Dome at Charm Lodge accommodation
Find unique stays by the river or in the countryside.

Throughout your busy few days of exploring, you’ll need a comfortable spot to rest.

Echuca Moama Riverside Holiday Park is right on the river and has gorgeous views. Pick from riverfront and pet-friendly lagoon cabins, or set up camp at one of the powered sites set among native bush. Or head into the countryside to stay in the quaint glamping or lodge options of Charm Lodge .

Alternatively, treat yourself to a night or two at The Sebel Yarrawonga Silverwoods , which has stylish modern rooms and luxe amenities. There’s a heated infinity pool, day spa and an on-site restaurant doing elevated fare with local produce.

For a quintessential Murray experience, hire a houseboat from one of the many operators in Mildura. Available for weekend and week-long adventures, these well-appointed boats immerse you in the leisurely rhythm and quiet beauty of the Murray River.

Discover what’s new on The Murray at visitthemurray.com.au