5 of the best slow stays around Australia

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Featuring everything from off-grid shacks and luxurious glamping spots to architecturally designed cabins, new book Life Unhurried calls for a slower, more sustainable way of living and travelling. Here, its authors share their pick of eco stays.

1. Upland Farm, Denmark, WA

Best for… families

You won’t have to worry about disturbing the neighbours when you take the kids to this architecturally designed guest house, set on a 43-hectare working cattle farm in Western Australia’s Great Southern region.

Upland Farm Denmark WA
Upland Farm is a great slow stay for families. (Image: Hannah Puechmarin)

Clad in iron ash, the two-bedroom property overlooks neighbouring vineyards and is built to harness the natural heating and cooling provided by nature. Venture out to explore nearby forests, walking trails and beaches, then retreat back to the fireplace and a pre-ordered barbecue hamper for an easy night in.

Bathroom Upland Farm Denamrk WA
Luxurious details inside the accommodation at Upland Farm. (Image: Hannah Puechmarin)

2. Aframe Kangaroo Valley, NSW

Best for… views 

Aframe Kangaroo Valley feels a million miles from anywhere, yet you’re only two hours from both Sydney/Warrang and Canberra/Ngambri/Ngunngawal. It’s a utopia of Australiana; wedge-tail eagles soar overhead and wombats amble out from their warrens alongside Shuffles, the resident echidna. Tucked away in the south-western corner of a 6-hectare block that tumbles to a creek, this triangle-shaped abode is a creative dream realised for architect Ben Gray and partner, designer and founder of Hello May magazine Sophie Lord.

Soft furnishings champion natural fibres while the military green bedroom was inspired by Sophie’s childhood memories of camping in the Snowy Mountains with her dad and grandad, a former brigadier for the Australian Army during World War II. Curtains in the bedroom are made of recycled truck canvases and the woollen blanket on the bed is from the Army Disposals store.

Aframe Kangaroo Valley
Slow things down with a slow stay at Aframe Kangaroo Valley. (Image: Courtesy of Life Unhurried)

While it’s hard to tear away from the storybook setting, just beyond your door the villages of the Southern Highlands beckon for adventure. You might drive over the historic Hampden Bridge and into the township of Kangaroo Valley where a hearty local breakfast from the General Cafe will fuel you up for a wander around the shops.

A canoe trip down the Kangaroo River is also one of the top things to do here or you might prefer to stay put and hike through fern gullies to swim in your own private creek.

Need tips, more detail or itinerary ideas tailored to you? Ask AT.

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3. The Shack at Sheepwash Bay, Tas

Best for… off-grid living

There’s beauty in imperfection, in ageing gracefully with the changing of the tides. This simple, earthy and intimate Bruny Island/lunawuni cabin is built from reclaimed timbers, with its sagging roof sympathetically restored to keep its original charm.

Wake to the smell of fresh wood-fired sourdough, baked in the shed next to you and delivered by owners John and Jenene. The day stretches ahead, like the kilometre of private water frontage beckoning with the opportunity to snorkel, swim, kayak or fish. Or you could just sit and watch the crabs scurry along the foreshore, the sea eagles flying overhead.

Check the map inside the shack and head out for a tramp across the 15-hectare property, returning for gin and tonics at sundown.

Jenene Oates and John Bullock embody the dream of living simply and their effervescent personalities are proof of the riches it can deliver. For more than a decade, they’ve lived here completely off-grid. Much of their food comes from their thriving vegetable patch, the chickens who wander about and John’s baking prowess. As well as providing handcrafted loaves to guests,  John sells some of his creations in their roadside stall – a pair of vintage fridges –  at the end of the dirt lane that links them to the township of Alonnah. But taking a bite out of their low-key lifestyle is just one of the benefits of staying here.

Facing out to an ever-changing bay and surrounded by peppermint forest, the Shack is an experience in eco living, with power drawn from solar panels and wind, and an inline pump bringing fresh rainwater for you to bathe in and drink. It’s a cosy space, kept toasty with a wood-burning fireplace and, when nature calls, you’ll find the composting toilet – with an unbeatable view – a few steps up a pathway.

The Shack @Sheepwash Bay Bruny Island
Embrace off-grid living at The Shack at Sheepwash Bay in Tasmania. (Image: Courtesy of Life Unhurried)

4. Wander at The Overflow 1895, Qld

Best for… sustainable luxury

It started with a simple question: instead of creating 100 rooms in one location, what if you could create one luxurious, zero-impact room and place it in 100 locations? What would that mean for the environment? The experience for guests? Could it have the potential to completely change the hotel game?

The answer can be found in the first five of those rooms, which sit sensitively within natural bushland on the banks of Lake Wyaralong in Queensland’s Scenic Rim – Yugambeh Country. The ‘hotel’ is known as Wander, and these one-and two-bedroom glass-fronted pavilions are at once private yet seamlessly immersed in the setting. Outdoor bathtubs beckon on the deck, king-sized pillow-top beds are made up with French flax linens, and low-combustion wood fireplaces ward off chilly nights. But it’s what’s going on behind the scenes in these ‘WanderPods’ that is most impressive.

Wander at The Overflow 1895, Scenic Rim Qld
Stay within natural bushland on the banks of Lake Wyaralong at Wander at The Overflow 1895. (Image: Courtesy of Life Unhurried)

The pods are solar-powered and fed by rainwater, with greywater recycling and an advanced waste-water management system (meaning you’ll have a flushing toilet). Double glazing and UV-rated blinds and awnings help to moderate the temperature, natural cleaning products are used, and guests are encouraged to compost waste during their stay.

Here, facing the water as it reflects the sun’s golden glow, it’s not hard to see why the Scenic Rim was recently named one of the top 10 regions to visit. In this unexpected pocket of Australia – tucked between Brisbane/Meanjin and the Gold Coast hinterland – you can bushwalk, seek waterfalls and wild swimming holes, visit farm gates and enjoy a curated picnic with a bottle of wine made within eyeshot. Many of these experiences can be added to your booking with Wander. Private yoga, meditation and massage can also be arranged.

The absence of light pollution means the stars and the Milky Way shine brilliantly in their nightly performances above your head. Leave the curtains open when you climb into bed; you won’t want the show to end.

Wander at The Overflow 1895 rooms
The cosy room and view from bed at Wander at The Overflow 1895. (Image: Courtesy of Life Unhurried)

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5. Ecopia Retreat, Kangaroo Island, SA

Best for… wildlife

Set within a registered wildlife sanctuary on Kangaroo Island, Mother Earth has been the ultimate architect in the creation of Ecopia Retreat.

Two rammed earth villas – designed and built by hand – are the stars of this off-grid escape, surrounded by ancient grass trees and visiting kangaroos. Created in harmony with, and of, the soil that lies beneath, there’s something completely organic and tactile about the buildings. A warmth that goes beyond the natural insulation created by the 30-centimetre-thick walls and double glazing.

Ecopia Retreat Kangaroo Island SA
Stay at one of two rammed earth villas at Ecopia Retreat on Kangaroo Island. (Image: Courtesy of Life Unhurried)

Once you’ve left your worries on the mainland and crossed over to Kangaroo Island on the ferry from Cape Jervis in South Australia, this 60-hectare wilderness retreat is found at the epicentre of the island. Instead of the wild Southern Ocean, the heartland becomes the shining star, with exclusive access to the Eleanor River that flows through the property.

The villas operate with solar panels and rainwater, and deep thought was given to the impact of every practical detail, from lighting right down to the energy efficiency of each appliance. It’s why you won’t find a microwave inside and the coffee machine switches itself off after nine minutes to conserve power.

But as earnest as Ecopia’s ethos is, there’s nothing austere about the experience here. With a bounty of gourmet produce available on the island, a welcome pack invites you in with sticky figs, fudge, olives and a bottle of local wine. You might like to add on an eat-and-drink package, filled with 100 per cent local supplies, or even organise a chef to come in and cook for you. Linen bedding and towels along with eco-friendly, bush medicine–infused body products and bath salts for soaking in the deep bathtub are all at hand.

Inside Ecopia Retreat Kangaroo Island SA
Inside the lush villa. (Image: Courtesy of Life Unhurried)

Walls are hung with a personal First Nations art collection, collected over 20 years. In many instances, Rob and Yael sat next to the artist as they painted their Dreaming or were gifted the pieces personally when they left Arnhem Land.

After a stay at Ecopia Retreat, you’re left wanting for nothing but more time to revel in the relaxed luxury of the experience. ‘It’s abundance but it’s abundance from within,’ as Yael explains.

Life Unhurried by Celeste Mitchell, Katie Gannon and Krista Eppelstun.
Find more Slow Stays in Life Unhurried by Celeste Mitchell, Katie Gannon and Krista Eppelstun.

This is an edited extract from Life Unhurried by Celeste Mitchell, Katie Gannon and Krista Eppelstun published by Hardie Grant Explore. Available 7 September; RRP $50.

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Celeste Mitchell
With visions of hosting Getaway, Celeste Mitchell graduated with a Bachelor of Journalism and entered the hard-hitting world of boy bands, puberty, and fashion, writing for magazines like Girlfriend, Total Girl, CLEO and TV Hits in the early noughties (there was a lot of Twilight references). Since switching gears to full-time freelancer in 2013, focused exclusively on travel, she’s criss-crossed the globe, opened a co-working space, lived in Mexico, and co-founded slow and sustainable site, Life Unhurried. The Sunshine Coast-based author (Life Unhurried & Ultimate Beaches Australia, Hardie Grant) and mum of two regularly pinches herself that she gets to explore new places and ask all the nosy questions she wants in the name of work.
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Explore historic wine towns and sculpture trails on a 3-day self-guided Murray River cruise

    Ricky French Ricky French
    Slow down and find your rhythm on a Murray River journey through time and place. 

    Trust is a funny thing. It seems not that long ago that my mother was insisting on pouring the milk into my cereal bowl, because she didn’t trust me not to slosh it over the table, and yet here I am on the Murray River at Mildura in far north-west Victoria, being handed the keys to a very new and very expensive luxury houseboat. 

    After a crash course in how not to crash, I’m at the wheel of the good ship Elevate – pride of the All Seasons fleet – guiding her upstream past red-ochre cliffs as pelicans glide above the rippled river and kookaburras call from reedy banks. There’s a brief moment of breath-holding while I negotiate a hairpin turn around a jagged reef of skeletal, submerged gum trees, before a cheer rings out and calm descends as the timeless river unfurls in front of us.    

    Murray River
    The Murray River winding through Yarrawonga. (Image: Rob Blackburn)

    Setting sail from Mildura 

    Murray River birds
    Home to a large number of bird species, including pelicans. (Image: The Precint Studios)

    A journey along the Murray River is never less than magical, and launching from Mildura makes perfect sense. Up here the river is wide and largely empty, giving novice skippers like myself the confidence to nudge the 60-tonne houseboat up to the riverbank where we tie up for the night, without fear of shattering the glass elevator (the boat is fully wheelchair accessible) or spilling our Champagne.  

    My friends and I spend three days on the water, swimming and fishing, sitting around campfires onshore at night, and basking in air so warm you’d swear you were in the tropics. The simplicity of river life reveals an interesting dichotomy: we feel disconnected from the world but at the same time connected to Country, privileged to be part of something so ancient and special.  

    Stop one: Echuca  

    19th-century paddlesteamers
    A historic 19th-century paddlesteamer cruises along the Murray River. (Image: Visit Victoria)

    The six-hour drive from Melbourne to Mildura (or four hours and 20 minutes from Adelaide) is more than worth it, but you don’t have to travel that far to find fun on the river. Once Australia’s largest inland port, Echuca is the closest point on the Murray to Melbourne (two hours 45 minutes), and you’ll still find a plethora of paddlesteamers tethered to the historic timber wharf, a throwback to the thriving river trade days of the 19th century. The PS Adelaide, built in 1866 and the oldest wooden-hulled paddlesteamer operating in the world, departs daily for one-hour cruises, while a brand-new paddlesteamer, the PS Australian Star, is launching luxury seven-night voyages in December through APT Touring.  

    The town is also a hot food and wine destination. St Anne’s Winery at the historic Port of Echuca precinct has an incredibly photogenic cellar door, set inside an old carriage builders’ workshop on the wharf and filled with huge, 3000-litre port barrels. The Mill, meanwhile, is a cosy winter spot to sample regional produce as an open fire warms the red-brick walls of this former flour mill.  

    Stop two: Barmah National Park 

    Barmah National Park
    Camping riverside in Barmah National Park, listed as a Ramsar site for its significant wetland values. (Image: Visit Victoria/Emily Godfrey)

    Just half-an-hour upstream, Barmah National Park is flourishing, its river red gum landscape (the largest in the world) rebounding magnificently after the recent removal of more than 700 feral horses. The internationally significant Ramsar-listed wetland sits in the heart of Yorta Yorta Country, with Traditional Owners managing the environment in close partnership with Parks Victoria. Walkways weave through the forest, crossing creeks lined with rare or threatened plants, passing remnants of Yorta Yorta oven mounds and numerous scar trees, where the bark was removed to build canoes, containers or shields.  

    The Dharnya Centre (open weekdays until 3pm) is the cultural hub for the Yorta Yorta. Visitors can learn about the ecological significance of the Barmah Lakes on a 90-minute river cruise, led by a First Nations guide, or take a one-hour, guided cultural walking tour along the Yamyabuc Trail.  

    Stop three: Cobram 

    Yarrawonga MulwalaGolf Club Resort
    Yarrawonga Mulwala Golf Club Resort. (Image: Visit Victoria)

    Continue east to Cobram to find the southern hemisphere’s largest inland beach. Swarming with sun-seekers in summer, the white sand of Thompson’s Beach is shaded by majestic river red gums and dotted with hundreds of beach umbrellas, as beachgoers launch all manner of water craft and set up stumps for beach cricket. But the beach is at its most captivating at sunset, when the crowds thin out, the glassy river mirrors the purple sky, and the canopies of the gum trees glow fiery orange. 

    The region is also home to some fine resorts and indulgent retreats. Yarrawonga Mulwala Golf Club Resort has two riverside championship golf courses, luxury apartments and self-contained villas. While not strictly on the Murray, the historic wine town of Rutherglen is rife with boutique (and unique) accommodation, including an exquisitely renovated red-brick tower in a French provincial-style castle at Mount Ophir Estate. Fans of fortified wines can unravel the mystery of Rutherglen’s ‘Muscat Mile’, meeting the vignerons and master-blenders whose artistry has put the town on the global map for this rich and complex wine style.  

    Stop four: Albury-Wodonga 

    First Nations YindyamarraSculpture Walk
    First Nations Yindyamarra Sculpture Walk is part of the Wagirra Trail. (Image: Carmen Zammit)

    Follow the river far enough upstream and you’ll arrive at the twin border cities of Albury-Wodonga. The Hume Highway thunders through, but serenity can be found along the five-kilometre Yindyamarra Sculpture Walk – part of the Wagirra Trail that meanders through river wetlands just west of Albury in Wiradjuri country. Fifteen sculptures by local First Nations artists line the trail, conveying stories of reconciliation, enduring connection to culture, local Milawa lore and traditional practices. It feels a long way from Mildura, and it is, but the pelicans and kookaburras remind us that it’s the same river, the great conduit that connects our country. 

    A traveller’s checklist  

    Staying there

    New Mildura motel Kar-rama
    New Mildura motel Kar-rama. (Image: Iain Bond Photo)

    Kar-Rama is a brand-new boutique, retro-styled motel in Mildura, with a butterfly-shaped pool and a tropical, Palm Springs vibe. Echuca Holiday Homes has a range of high-end accommodation options, both on the riverfront and in town. 

    Playing there

    BruceMunro’s Trail of Lights in Mildura
    Bruce Munro’s Trail of Lights in Mildura. (Image: Imogen Eveson)

    Artist Bruce Munro’s Trail of Lights installation, comprising more than 12,000 illuminated ‘fireflies’, is currently lighting up Mildura’s Lock Island in the middle of the Murray. Murray Art Museum Albury (MAMA) is a hub for contemporary art, with a rotating roster of exhibitions, and is a major outlet for young and First Nations artists. 

    Eating there

    Mildura’s diverse demographic means it’s a fantastic place to eat. Andy’s Kitchen is a local favourite, serving up delicious pan-Asian dishes and creative cocktails in a Balinese-style garden setting. Call in to Spoons Riverside in Swan Hill to enjoy locally sourced, seasonal produce in a tranquil setting overlooking the river.