Cocos Islands, Going Coco- Reader Story

AT reader Blake Roet unwinds on the Indian Ocean island paradise that still calls Australia home.

It was time to escape the pressures of city life, recharge my batteries and fill my lungs with sea and scuba air. After hearing exciting stories from fellow travellers about the Cocos (Keeling) Islands I decided it was time for me to experience them first hand.

Referred to by the locals as Cocos, the islands are located in the Indian Ocean, 2950km north-west of Perth and 3700km west of Darwin. The 27 islands in the group include the southern atoll islands, which surround a beautiful blue lagoon, and the uninhabited North Keeling Island, which is protected within the Pulu Keeling National Park.

The islands were owned by the Clunies-Ross family until 1978, when they were acquired by the Australian Government, which had administered them as an Australian Territory since 1955. The small population of around 600 people resides on two of the southern atoll islands. The largely Muslim Cocos Malay population, which were originally brought to the islands from Malaysia to work on coconut plantations, reside on Home Island where they live a traditional Malay life in kampungs. The Government administration, airport, commercial activity and tourist facilities are located on West Island.

Other atolls surrounding the lagoon include stunning Direction Island, which is a favourite destination for daytrippers and campers from West Island, and a number of smaller islands where the Cocos Malays maintain weekend shacks for fishing and relaxing.

North Keeling Island has great diving, is a popular spot for birdwatchers and is the location of the wreck of German naval raider SMS Emden which was destroyed and then beached in 1914 after attempting to attack the communications facility then operating on Direction Island.

The beaches on West Island are amazing. These include Trannies beach (for readers who are family-conscious please note this beach was named after a nearby communication transmission facility) at the northern end and Scout Park beach and the nearby Yacht Club beach at the southern end.

Across the lagoon by boat you’ll find a beautiful beach on Direction Island (not camping here for a night is my only regret). The lagoon offers terrific snorkeling including the waters between Scout Park and the small island of Pulu Maraya, where juvenile but harmless black-tip reef sharks cruise the channel in knee-deep water.

The diving around Cocos is world class with healthy reefs inside and outside the lagoon and an abundance of reef fish, large pelagic fish, turtles, reef sharks and the occasional tiger shark. However, the attraction that sets Cocos apart from other dive destinations is its resident lone dugong named Kat.

I dived with Cocos Dive, which is operated by Dieter Gerhard and his partner, underwater photographer Karen Willshaw, who have developed a special relationship with Kat. Upon the boat’s arrival at the dive site Kat comes out of the blue to the boat and rubs herself along the anchor line to invite divers into the water.

The islands also attract kite surfers and windsurfers from around the world, especially to Yacht Club Beach. There are good surf breaks on the ocean side of West island, too, with basic surf camps located along the shore

There are, of course, sacrifices to be made when travelling to such a small, exotic and isolated location. Inevitably, food, entertainment and accommodation options are limited, but in my experience you can not have all these and still expect a unique experience such as I had on these islands.

Cocos is not a party location. There’s only one bar on West Island: the Cocos Club. On certain Friday nights men also gather at an isolated beach location on West Island, where they discuss secret men’s business, enjoy a few cold beverages then relieve themselves in a unique bush toilet (see opposite).

Travelling to Cocos is demanding and expensive. I flew from Melbourne to Perth, then flew to Cocos the next morning, but this is definitely worth the effort.

Find out more about this intriguing destination in the Australian Indian Ocean Territories:

Cocos-tourism

A world away from the hustle, bustle and chaos of the big smoke – yet with a distinct sense of familiarity – Victoria’s Wimmera Mallee region is an incomparable place.

Victoria’s Grampians are a visual feast, a seemingly endless vista of craggy cliffs, rolling valleys and untamed bushland. But they’re also much more than a scenic mountain landscape. Diverse and storied, each region within the range has its own rhythm. The Wimmera Mallee – a pocket in the state’s north-west, stretching from Horsham to near Mildura – is one of the most captivating.

Once known as Victoria’s agricultural heartland, the Wimmera Mallee has evolved in recent years into a dynamic, slightly offbeat hub. It buzzes with a creative hum and welcoming energy, and harbours an eclectic mix of long-time locals and tree-changers. Once you encounter its unmistakable charm, feel its warm country hospitality and taste its nationally celebrated vanilla slice, you may find yourself lingering longer than planned.

Eager to explore? These must-visit spots let you experience the inimitable spirit of this special part of the world.

Wimmera Mallee’s quirky attractions

The Dimboola Imaginarium, Wimmera Mallee victoria — Step into the whacky Dimboola Imaginarium. (Image: Denis Bin)

If you’re after something a little more unconventional, the Wimmera Mallee delivers in droves.

The Dimboola Imaginarium – located in a historic bank building in its namesake town – is a gift shop and boutique accommodation in one. Shop for unique and whimsical keepsakes, stay overnight in an elegant themed room, and lose yourself in one of the Imaginarium’s interactive experiences.

Also in Dimboola, just a short drive from the Imaginarium, is a menagerie of utter delight. Tiny Goats and Co. is home to a herd of miniature goats, with the farm offering group visits and special events like goat yoga and cuddle sessions.

Arcade aficionados should visit the Australian Pinball Museum in nearby Nhill. Here, you’ll find the biggest selection of playable pinball machines in the country, featuring modern models and classics dating all the way back to 1931.

Arts and culture in Wimmera Mallee

Step into the Wimmera Mallee’s storied history at the Stick Shed — Step into history at the Stick Shed. (Image: Visit Vic)

As a thoroughly creative community, it’s no wonder the Wimmera Mallee has a host of venues focused on its rich arts and culture scene.

Wander Trickbots Metal Art & Sculpture Garden in Nullawil, a winding trail filled with unique and quirky creations fashioned from metal odds, ends and scrap. A walk through the garden is inspiring enough, but consider buying a piece to take home and treasure.

The town of Nhill also has a significant Karen-Burmese refugee community, who make up 10 per cent of the local population. Discover the artistry of this vibrant culture at Paw Po , where you can purchase traditional hand-woven and textile products. Choose from a selection of beautifully crafted homewares, fashion and dolls.

Step into the Wimmera Mallee’s storied history at the Stick Shed , the only WWII emergency grain store still standing today. This National Heritage-listed structure takes you on a journey through the region’s agricultural past and is a dramatic sight with its towering and eerily striking timber poles.

Nature escapes around Wimmera Mallee

pink Lake Tyrrel, Wimmera Mallee, Victoria Australia — Take in the pink hues of Lake Tyrrell. (Image: Visit Vic)

Much like the majestic beauty of the wider Grampians, the Wimmera Mallee is a mélange of serene and spellbinding nature escapes.

Victoria’s pink lakes are famed nationwide, and two of them are found right here. See the flamingo-pink hues of Loch Iel, particularly vivid after a heavy downpour, or the vast and ancient Lake Tyrrell , which turns pink during wet and warm conditions.

The Snowdrift dunes in Wyperfeld National Park are ideal for adventurers. Set amid the area’s semi-arid landscape, the dunes are expansive mounds of sand deposited around 40,000 years ago. Hike or sandboard them and make sure to visit at sunset, when the sand glows golden.

And while some travellers chase the highest peaks, you can see the most modest in the Wimmera Mallee. Standing a mere 43 metres above the surrounding terrain, Mount Wycheproof is considered the smallest registered mountain in the world. Courtesy of its relatively gentle inclines, it’s a lovely spot for a walk and a picnic.

Culinary adventures in Wimmera Mallee

border inn in the Wimmera Mallee — Meet the locals at Border Inn.

As a region rich in agricultural bounty, it’s little surprise the Wimmera Mallee has such a robust and vibrant food scene. The community is fiercely proud of its local produce, showcasing the flavours and heritage of the area.

The Border Inn in the village of Apsley is a quaint country pub and meeting spot for the local community, featuring a classic country menu and warm hospitality.

The Horsham Golf Club is a popular spot for golf buffs with an adjoining bistro and bar. Try a modern twist on hearty favourites while taking in views of the green. For a taste of the area’s vintages, head to Norton Estate Wines – a boutique wine producer and cellar door open weekends.

A Wimmera Mallee jaunt wouldn’t be complete without a visit to the famed Sharp’s Bakery in Birchip. Here, you’ll find a velvety vanilla slice that’s been crowned as Australia’s best seven times.

Wimmera Mallee accommodation

Fulham Homestead in wimmera mallee — Escape to Fulham Homestead.

If you’re enjoying an extended trip, you’ll need somewhere to rest. After a day tackling Wyperfeld’s epic dunes, visit Pine Plains Lodge , also in the national park. Built from reclaimed timber planks and logs, and anchored by rugged stone fireplaces, the lodge is a rustic and cosy hideaway.

For a refined yet relaxing escape, head to Fulham Homestead – a gorgeously restored guesthouse on an idyllic working farm, complete with farm animals and scenic vistas. Built in the 1840s, it has all the elegance and charm of its heritage, plus contemporary comforts like a modern kitchen, wi-fi and air-conditioning.

The Hermitage Hotel is Victoria’s oldest inland pub and an equally delightful blend of old and new. The restored rooms are perfectly appointed and adorned with period furnishings and high-quality linens. The pub itself is a favoured food and wine spot among locals and travellers alike.

If camping is more your style, the Lake Lascelles Cabins and Camping (formerly Mallee Bush Retreat) is a sprawling oasis with powered and unpowered sites and snug cabins. The setting is stunning too, the pristine Lake Lascelles sitting right in its centre.

Annual events

Wimmera Mallee Nhill Aviation Museum — Time your visit to Nhill Aviation Museum for the annual air show.

You may not need an excuse to revisit the Wimmera Mallee, but these annual and bi-annual events will almost certainly have you returning again and again.

Each year, the Lake Chalegrark Country Music Marathon takes over the town for a spectacular line-up of musicians from around Australia. The event is easygoing, family-friendly, and set in scenic surrounds on the shores of Lake Charlegrark.

Every two years, the region holds colourful events like the Wimmera Steampunk Festival , a raucous celebration of 19th-century steampunk culture with a different theme each time; the Nhill Air Show , which features jaw-dropping aerial stunts, aircraft displays, music, activities and more; and the Nati Frinj , a festival of art, culture and performance showcasing the many talents of the Natimuk community.

From the quirky to the tasty, start planning at visitwimmeramallee.com.au

Cocos Islands, Going Coco – Reader Story

AT reader Blake Roet unwinds on the Indian Ocean island paradise that still calls Australia home.

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