Theresa Cronk takes a road trip through inland QLD, seeing the sights and delights from Mackay to Alice Springs
There is something about the Australian outback that appeals to those seeking an adventure. Why else would two twenty-something girls armed with a map and a couple of tourist brochures want to drive a camper van across western Queensland? We were asked that same question many times during our fourteen day adventure.
The idea had been born as we chattered over a cup of tea at Uluru when we discovered a mutual interest in exploring western Queensland. Twelve months later saw us arrive in Brisbane and head north along the Bruce Highway. We had no particular destination in mind and wandered aimlessly for the first four days, drinking in the sights of southern Queensland.
We filled our days trying to identify pastoral crops near Kingaroy, buying pineapples at roadside stalls and touring the striking formations of the Glasshouse Mountains.
We headed to the coastal towns of Tin Can Bay and Rainbow Beach. At Woodgate Beach, the local kangaroo population did not fail to disappoint and greeted us whilst enjoying the lawns of houses with ocean views. And in the home of Bundaberg Rum, we of course made time for an obligatory visit to the 124-year-old distillery.
Swapping the wheels for a boat, we cruised out to Lady Musgrave Island on the edge of the Great Barrier Reef. A sumptuous seafood buffet lunch, a glass bottomed boat tour, snorkelling and a walking tour of the island fulfilled our desire of spending a day at sea.
After seven days of meandering, we decided to begin our trek inland. The seventh day began with a drive through green crops of sugar cane, surprising some local farmers with our interest in a working cane cutting machine and taking a small trek on foot to see the Araluen Falls. We then headed towards the historic gold mining town of Mount Britten.
Whatever treasures this town could have revealed remain a mystery. Eight kilometres from our destination we found ourselves surrounded by uninspiring wheat crops, scattered burnt trees and hungry cattle. It was such a depressing sight that we decided to make an early exit and headed onwards towards our overnight stop of Clermont.
The towns of Blackall and Barcaldine revealed strong, long-standing ties with the pastoral industry in Australia. Blackall honours Jackie Howe and his record for shearing 321 sheep in seven hours, 40 minutes in 1892.
In Barcaldine, we lamented the loss of the Tree of Knowledge, the site where the 1891 Shearer’s Strike began. We will also remember Barcaldine as the place where we almost collided with a roadtrain.
Our close encounters continued at Longreach. This time it was with the local wildlife in the form of two grey and white birds with very long legs strolling through the caravan park. These brolgas were definitely not shy and seemed to enjoy the attention they attracted. They were still touring the parkas we left.
It was in the town of McKinley that the Australian sun decided to seek revenge. Only consisting of two businesses, this is the location of the Walkabout Creek Hotel that featured in the movie Crocodile Dundee.
Although I only walked a couple of metres, the intense heat as I retraced my steps made me very glad to be back in the camper van. The heat made us even happier to see Lake Julius at Mount Isa. Indeed, the wide expanse of blue water snaking its way between outcrops of land looked very welcoming and inviting. The blue-green algae, however, did not have the same appeal.
Crossing the border into the Northern Territory saw us rewarded with the Barkly Tablelands. Strong cross winds proceeded to buffer us and threatened to blow us off the road. Not that we had to worry about hitting anything. Only the road provided a respite from the tussocks of dry, withered grass that stretched in all directions.
Our arrival in Alice Springs flagged the end of the trip, just in time for an outback dust storm.
So why did we decide to drive from the coast to the desert? We simply wanted to see this part of Australia for ourselves and would gladly repeat the expedition. We visited many places that were not conventionally beautiful but that didn’t reduce their ability to impress. The heat, drought, dust and open spaces are experiences synonymous with The Outback. Without them, we would have been sorely disappointed.
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From poolside bites and tasting flights to seafood plates and dry-aged steaks, a foodie adventure on Hamilton Island is worth every bite.
Hamilton Island’s sun-lacquered shores have long magnetised travellers craving an escape from reality. But what’s less expected – and more interesting – is just how assuredly this Whitsundays idyll delivers on the culinary front. Dialling up the flavour as much as the barefoot allure, the Hamilton Island food scene offers world-class dining and drinking options, spanning slick fine-dining moments to just-caught seafood served within sight of the sea. Let’s dig in.
Catseye Pool Club
Catseye Pool Club offers stunning beach views. (Image: Kara Rosenlund)
Framing the electric blues of Catseye Beach from The Sundays hotel, Catseye Pool Club is Hamilton Island’s latest culinary prodigy. Shown to our table, we thread through rattan chairs, Zellige tiles and tumbling greenery that opens up to Coral Sea shimmer.
The poolside restaurant is the brainchild of Sydney-based chef duo Josh and Julie Niland, who have brought their relaxed yet elevated dining ethos north. The menu – designed to bring people together – is made for sharing, each hero ingredient orbited by a palette of sides to mix, match and layer as you please.
My thyme cocktail – woody with scotch, lifted by lime leaf – pairs perfectly with the charcoal grilled prawns entree, which is served with tumeric and lemongrass marinade, macadamia satay sauce and a thai-leaning sour green mango salad. Each forkful lands differently, but all are a delight. Then comes the coral trout. True to Josh Niland’s ‘scale-to-tail’ philosophy, the fish is presented whole in a theatrical crescent, a tiny fork stuck into its cheek in a nod to Niland’s declared prize cut. Ribbons of zucchini resembling gauzy curtains bring brightness and snap, while kasundi lends depth and warmth. It’s tongue-tantalising, special occasion dining with humanity.
Sails Restaurant
Settle into casual poolside dining. (Credit: Nikki To)
A more casual poolside dining scene awaits at nearby Sails Restaurant, where Eastern Mediterranean flavours are dished up with an island twist. Chermoula chicken skewers and barramundi souvlaki lie on the more filling side of the menu, while the sumac squid and stone-bread flatbread with za’atar – arriving alongside pomegranate molasses, beetroot hummus and crushed macadamias – are perfect light bites after a dip in the pool. And don’t miss the garlic lemon scallops.
The setting is equally part of the draw. Sunlight floods the high-ceilinged dining room, while outdoor tables look out across the glittering expanse of Catseye Beach. Holidaymakers in oversized sunglasses sip spritzes beneath umbrellas, the gentle clink of plates mixing with splashes from the adjacent pool. It’s the kind of place you’ll want to linger long after lunch.
Bommie
Head to the Hamilton Island Yacht Club for a taste of Bommie. (Credit: Nikki To)
Tucked into a sleek curved wing of the Hamilton Island Yacht Club, Bommie delivers experiential fine dining with a sense of occasion. Led by award-winning Executive Chef Ryan Locke, the seasonal menu champions local and native Australian ingredients whipped up into a modern display of creative precision.
Inside the dim-lit dining room, guests can choose between the Tasting Menu or Chef’s Signature Degustation. Sourdough with pine oil sets the tone for the six-course tasting menu, beautifully presented in a bed of pine needles alongside smoked paperbark butter. I love how the squid ink choux pastry is served with flavour-popping native finger lime, which our waiter encourages us to eat caviar-style. Standout moments continue with the wattle-seed-crusted venison elevated by red fruit and pickled beetroot swirls; the meat is perfectly pink in the middle and an homage to the island’s history as a deer farm.
Pebble Beach
qualia Resort guests can dine at Pebble Beach. (Credit: Lean Timms)
Exclusive to qualia Resort guests for lunch and dinner, Pebble Beach is Hamilton Island’s most serene expression of seasonal island dining. Ocean-facing chairs dot a timber deck that spills straight onto the resort’s private beach, while crystalline turquoise waters stretch to meet distant islands – a scene far prettier than any postcard could capture.
The recently refreshed menu doubles down on seasonality and bright, layered flavours. While the more substantial T-bone steak with hazelnut honey carrots tempts, we go lighter: Coffin Bay oysters with Champagne foam and keffir lime dust kick us off splendidly, followed by Byron Bay burrata served with balsamic and caramelised figs. The fennel and orange salad topped with succulent grilled chicken is utterly delectable, but it’s the zingy, oh-so-fresh soft shell fish tacos that I can’t stop thinking about. It all goes down a treat with a glass of delicate Charles Heidsieck Brut Reserve Champagne.
Beach Club Restaurant
Book in advance for Beach Club Restaurant. (Credit: Nikki To)
A lunch or dinner table at Beach Club Restaurant is best booked in advance – and it’s easy to see why. Looking out over the hotel’s palm-fringed infinity pool, the restaurant spotlights elegant contemporary Australian cuisine with a stellar (also Aussie-leaning) wine list to match.
I am completely enamoured by the grilled Queensland prawns, which are brought to life with a smoked compound, local fried curry leaves and lime. Digging into the butter-soft lamb rump served atop pea ragout and parsley Paris mash feels like a warm, nostalgic hug. And dessert – vanilla bean ice cream drizzled with hot salted honey and apple gel – ends the night on a high note.
Expect warm and discreet service; our waiter Marco tells us that the tiny decorative starfish on our table are there to help the staff remember whether we prefer sparkling or still water, so they don’t need to bother us by asking multiple times.
Talk & Taste with Courtenay Morgan-Fletcher
Join this immersive wine experience. (Credit Eleanor Edström)
There’s more to Hamilton Island’s foodie scene than restaurant reservations alone. For wine-curious travellers seeking something a little more immersive, Beach Club has recently introduced Talk & Taste – a tutored tasting hosted by Bommie Assistant Manager and wine enthusiast Courtenay Morgan-Fletcher. Held twice weekly for a maximum of eight guests, the experience explores Australian wine culture through four thoughtfully selected drops paired with native-inspired bites.
We opt for the white wine and seafood option. Alongside pours from Eden Valley and Launceston, a nibbling platter arrives featuring sashimi, salmon roe, Mooloolaba prawn ceviche and palate-cleansing ginger. The seafood is pristine and pared back, allowing the wines to take centre stage.
The real highlight, however, is discovering just how nuanced winemaking can be. Courtenay speaks of viticulture as both art and science: harvest grapes a week too late and ripeness tips into ruin; plant the same varietal on different elevations and the sun, slope and water flow will shape entirely different expressions. Pinot noir, she explains, with its delicate skin and high water content, yields lighter fruit-forward wines, while thicker-skinned shiraz delivers depth and structure. I leave feeling fascinated and inspired by Courtenay’s evident passion.
coca chu
Get a taste of Southeast Asian flavours. (Credit: Nikki To)
Sweet and hot. Sour and salty. Dining at ever-popular coca chu is a sensation-swirling experience that’s not to be missed if you’re a sucker for punchy Southeast Asian flavours. Located at the Main Pool end of Catseye Beach, this lively hangout is all swaying lanterns, driftwood, high beamed ceilings and giant open windows that let in the balmy ocean breeze.
Drawing from hawker traditions, the grilled betel leaf is a neat, vibrant mouthful of chilli fried cashews and spiced beef. The tofu surprises – soft beneath a tumble of dill, mint and coriander, and glossed in moreish peanut sauce. The massaman curry is pure comfort: creamy, fragrant, fall-apart meat. It’s generous and expressive cooking that I, for one, cannot get enough of.
Marina Cafe
Take in harbour views and comfort food.
Sometimes, all you crave on holidays is a bacon and egg roll done properly and a creamy fruit smoothie. Boasting harbour views, an easygoing atmosphere and clean modern interiors, Marina Cafe is a popular local haunt for a reason. The casual menu lures families and couples alike with its all-day brekky, seasonal salads and sandwiches – from a roasted pumpkin bowl to prosciutto and rocket on herby focaccia.
The acai bowl, topped with toasted nuts and berries, is a refreshing start to my day. Whether you sit in or takeaway, it’s a good-vibes-guaranteed place to refuel before or after your Whitsundays adventures.
