Road trip from Mackay to Alice Springs

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Theresa Cronk takes a road trip through inland QLD, seeing the sights and delights from Mackay to Alice Springs

There is something about the Australian outback that appeals to those seeking an adventure. Why else would two twenty-something girls armed with a map and a couple of tourist brochures want to drive a camper van across western Queensland? We were asked that same question many times during our fourteen day adventure.

 

The idea had been born as we chattered over a cup of tea at Uluru when we discovered a mutual interest in exploring western Queensland. Twelve months later saw us arrive in Brisbane and head north along the Bruce Highway. We had no particular destination in mind and wandered aimlessly for the first four days, drinking in the sights of southern Queensland.

 

We filled our days trying to identify pastoral crops near Kingaroy, buying pineapples at roadside stalls and touring the striking formations of the Glasshouse Mountains.

 

We headed to the coastal towns of Tin Can Bay and Rainbow Beach. At Woodgate Beach, the local kangaroo population did not fail to disappoint and greeted us whilst enjoying the lawns of houses with ocean views. And in the home of Bundaberg Rum, we of course made time for an obligatory visit to the 124-year-old distillery.

 

Swapping the wheels for a boat, we cruised out to Lady Musgrave Island on the edge of the Great Barrier Reef. A sumptuous seafood buffet lunch, a glass bottomed boat tour, snorkelling and a walking tour of the island fulfilled our desire of spending a day at sea.

 

After seven days of meandering, we decided to begin our trek inland. The seventh day began with a drive through green crops of sugar cane, surprising some local farmers with our interest in a working cane cutting machine and taking a small trek on foot to see the Araluen Falls. We then headed towards the historic gold mining town of Mount Britten.

 

Whatever treasures this town could have revealed remain a mystery. Eight kilometres from our destination we found ourselves surrounded by uninspiring wheat crops, scattered burnt trees and hungry cattle. It was such a depressing sight that we decided to make an early exit and headed onwards towards our overnight stop of Clermont.

 

The towns of Blackall and Barcaldine revealed strong, long-standing ties with the pastoral industry in Australia. Blackall honours Jackie Howe and his record for shearing 321 sheep in seven hours, 40 minutes in 1892.

 

In Barcaldine, we lamented the loss of the Tree of Knowledge, the site where the 1891 Shearer’s Strike began. We will also remember Barcaldine as the place where we almost collided with a roadtrain.

 

Our close encounters continued at Longreach. This time it was with the local wildlife in the form of two grey and white birds with very long legs strolling through the caravan park. These brolgas were definitely not shy and seemed to enjoy the attention they attracted. They were still touring the parkas we left.

 

It was in the town of McKinley that the Australian sun decided to seek revenge. Only consisting of two businesses, this is the location of the Walkabout Creek Hotel that featured in the movie Crocodile Dundee.

Although I only walked a couple of metres, the intense heat as I retraced my steps made me very glad to be back in the camper van. The heat made us even happier to see Lake Julius at Mount Isa. Indeed, the wide expanse of blue water snaking its way between outcrops of land looked very welcoming and inviting. The blue-green algae, however, did not have the same appeal.

 

Crossing the border into the Northern Territory saw us rewarded with the Barkly Tablelands. Strong cross winds proceeded to buffer us and threatened to blow us off the road. Not that we had to worry about hitting anything. Only the road provided a respite from the tussocks of dry, withered grass that stretched in all directions.

 

Our arrival in Alice Springs flagged the end of the trip, just in time for an outback dust storm.

 

So why did we decide to drive from the coast to the desert? We simply wanted to see this part of Australia for ourselves and would gladly repeat the expedition. We visited many places that were not conventionally beautiful but that didn’t reduce their ability to impress. The heat, drought, dust and open spaces are experiences synonymous with The Outback. Without them, we would have been sorely disappointed.

Need tips, more detail or itinerary ideas tailored to you? Ask AT.

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Exploding supernovas & gold fever: discover the past at this outback Qld town

    Kassia Byrnes Kassia Byrnes
    Under wide-open outback skies, discover a fossicking gem that’s managed to slip under the radar.

    While the name Clermont may feel new to even the most intrepid traveller, its gilded history stretches back centuries. You’ll find it just off the highway, humming quietly under the hazy veil of Queensland’s outback sun. It’s here, hemmed in by mountains and perched atop soil heavy with the earth’s treasures, that one of Australia’s most accessible outback adventures awaits.

    Thanks to deposits of gold, copper and gemstones – souvenirs left by exploding supernovas and the heave of tectonic plates – Clermont became a centre point of Queensland’s Gold Rush. And now? Australia’s fossicking capital is yours to discover.

    Getting there

    car driving along Capricorn Way in queensland
    Take a drive through Queensland’s Mackay Isaac region. (Image: Sean Scott/ TEQ)

    You’ll find Clermont in Queensland’s Mackay Isaac region. To get here, it’s an easy three-hour drive over sealed roads from Mackay. Or, if you’re heading from the Sapphire Fields of Emerald, the drive will carve out just over an hour from your day.

    Whether you’re road-tripping through outback Queensland or just tracing your way through all that Australia has to offer, Clermont is remote but easily accessible.

    Best accommodation in Clermont

    Theresa CreekDam in clermont
    Camp by Theresa Creek Dam. (Image: Riptide Creative/ TEQ)

    All accommodation comes with a generous helping of country hospitality here. The choice is yours between modern hotels, parking up the camper or pitching a tent.

    Theresa Creek Dam lies just outside town. Begin each day with crisp country air and bright outback sunrises. Spend the night under the sparkling country stars and your days out on the dam fishing or kayaking. Even if you aren’t camping, be sure to save space in your itinerary for an afternoon on the red dirt shore.

    To stay closer to town, opt for a central hotel to base yourself between exploring and fossicking, like Smart Stayzzz Inn and Clermont Country Motor Inn .

    Things to do in Clermont

    three people on a tour with Golden Prospecting
    Join a tour with Golden Prospecting.

    One does not visit Clermont without trying their hand at fossicking. There are strict rules when it comes to fossicking, so stick to areas dedicated for general permission and make sure you obtain your license beforehand. Try your luck at McMasters , Four Mile , Town Desert, McDonald Flat and Flat Diggings . To increase your odds, sign on for a tour with the expert team at Golden Prospecting . They’ll give you access to exclusive plots and expert advice along the way.

    Once you’ve tried your luck on the gold fields, head to the Clermont Township and Historical Museum . Each exhibit works like an archaeologist’s brush to dust away the layers of Clermont’s history. Like the steam engine that painstakingly relocated the entire town inch by inch to higher ground after it was decimated by flooding in 1916. See the tools that helped build the Blair Athol mine, historic fire engines, shearing sheds and all sorts of relics that make up Clermont’s story.

    The historic Copperfield Chimney offers a change of pace. Legend has it that fossickers found a solid wall of copper here, over three metres high, kick-starting Queensland’s first-ever copper mine.

    Bush Heli Services flying over clermont queensland
    See Clermont from above with Bush Heli Services. (Image: Riptide Creative/ TEQ)

    For hiking, nearby Dysart is the best place to access Peak Range National Park. Here, mountainous horizons stretch across the outback as if plucked from another world. Set off for a scenic drive along the Peak Downs Highway for access to countless geological wonders. Like the slanting rockface of Wolfang Peak. Summit it, and you’ll find yourself looking out across a scene surely conjured up by Banjo Paterson. Dry scrub dancing in the warm breeze, grazing cattle, eucalypts and the gentle creak of windmills. Don’t miss visiting Gemini Peaks, either, for one of the park’s best vistas, and a blanket of wild flowers after rain.

    Then, take to the skies with a scenic helicopter tour with Bush Heli-Services . Shift your perspective and cruise above all the sights from your trip. Spots like Lords Table Mountain and Campbell’s Peak are best viewed from the skies.

    Before you head home, be sure to explore the neighbouring townships. Spend a lazy afternoon in the shade of Nebo Hotel’s wrap-around verandahs . The hotel’s 1900s dance hall has since been replaced with one of the area’s biggest rodeo arenas, so consider timing your trip to line up with a boot scootin’ rodeo. Or, stop by a ghost town. Mount Britton was once a thriving town during the 1880s Gold Rush. It’s been totally abandoned and now lies untouched, a perfect relic of the Gold Rush.

    Best restaurants and cafes in Clermont

    meal at Commercial Hotel
    Stop into the Commercial Hotel Clermont.

    Days spent fossicking, bushwalking and cramming on history call for excellent coffee and hearty country meals. Luckily, Clermont delivers in spades.

    Lotta Lattes Cafe is beloved by locals for a reason. Start your days here for the best caffeine fix in town and an impeccable brunch menu.

    For a real country meal, an icy cold beer and that famed country hospitality, head straight to the town’s iconic hotel: the Commercial Hotel (known endearingly to locals as ‘The Commie’). It’s been a staple in Clermont since 1877. The hotel even survived the flood of 1916 when it was sawn in two and moved to higher ground.

    Naturally, time spent in the outback must include calling into the local bakery. For delicious pies and a tantalising array of sweet treats, make Bluemac Bakehouse your go-to while in town.

    Discover more of The Mackay Isaac region, and start planning your trip at mackayisaac.com.