Driving the Big Lap of Australia12 things to know

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Dreaming about driving off into the sunset and doing a big lap of Australia?

Travel writer and photographer Lee Atkinson has just returned from an epic 10-month, 40,000km road trip around the country, and written a book about it (see below). Here are her top 12 road trip travel hacks you need to know before you hit the road.

1. What to drive

You don’t need a 4WD to drive around Australia, but you do need low range gearing to reach some of the most beautiful bits, because the really wild, wondrous places are almost always in out of the way places. If you are towing a van or camper trailer opt for a turbodiesel, because this type of engine works more efficiently than a petrol for towing and diesel is more readily available in remote areas. And go for an automatic, because autos allow you to just stick it in drive and concentrate on other things.

lower tyre pressure
Deep sand means it’s time to lower tyre pressures (photo: Lee Atkinson).

2. To tow or not to tow?

The number one mistake most people make when choosing whether to buy a caravan, motorhome or camper trailer is to think in terms of what it will be like to live in, rather than where they can take it. If you’re planning to spend most of your time on main roads and want to stay in towns or caravan parks, a caravan or motorhome is a great option. But if your idea of a good time is taking the roads less travelled and getting out into national parks and wild places a camper trailer or a roof-top tent is a better choice. Bigger is not always better. There’s an exponential relationship between the size of your caravan or trailer and the extent to which you can get off the beaten track.

3. Before you go…

If you’ve never been outback or off-road before sign up for a 4WD training course. It will teach you how to use the vehicle to its full potential, how to get yourself out of tight spots and, most importantly, how to use recovery gear. Google ‘4WD driver training’. Same goes for towing: not only do you get plenty of time, and traffic-free space, to learn how to manoeuvre and reverse park your vehicle with a caravan or trailer in tow, you’ll also pick up lots of technical and safety information and handy tips. Tow-ed operates courses in most capital cities and regional centres and will lend you a van if you want to learn before you buy.

Colourful campsite Rainbow Cliffs Arnhem Land
Colourful campsite, Rainbow Cliffs, Arnhem Land (photo: Lee Atkinson).

4. What tools do you need?

A basic tool kit should include a jack, jacking plate and wheel replacement tools, spare tyre, fire extinguisher, emergency fuel supplies (if heading off the beaten track), engine oil, coolant, jumper leads and spare radiator hoses and fan belts and the tools you’ll need to replace them – check out YouTube for DIY tips and bush mechanic lessons. Don’t even think about leaving home without ultimate get-out-of-jail repair kit: cable ties, gaffa tape and fencing wire – with these you can fix just about anything.

5. Getting out of trouble

Getting stuck is inevitable when you’re travelling off the beaten track. You can spend a fortune on fancy recovery gear but there are five things you really can’t do without: we took a pair of Maxx Trax ramps, which you put under the wheels when you’re bogged in sand or mud. They give the tyres something to grip and, as a rule, will launch you out of trouble easily. We also had a long-handled shovel for digging and a snatch strap for those moments when all else failed – all we needed then was somebody else to come along to pull us out, but it was never used. The best way to not get bogged in the first place is to drop tyre pressures to 20psi or less, so we also carried a quality air compressor and an accurate pressure gauge.

6. Essential kit

Never travel without a first aid kit and always carry extra drinking water. Mobile phone coverage can be non-existent in the outback. Hire (or buy) a satellite phone so you can call for help if needed. Some tourist information centres in remote areas have sat phones you can hire, or visit Satellite Hire or  Rent a Sat Phone .

Lee Atkinson's Big Lap map.
Lee Atkinson’s Big Lap map.

7. Map it out

Fighting over which is the right way to go is a major cause of holiday (and marital) breakdown. Don’t rely on the mapping app on your phone – invest in a good GPS. We used Hema Navigator, which features off-road tracks as well as major highways.

8. Keep in touch

These days you can get most of your bills, banks statements etc electronically, which means you can keep the home fires burning relatively easily. Skype is the best thing ever for keeping in touch with friends and family for next to nix. We carried laptops and a 4G mobile wi-fi modem which connects up to 10 devices. Telstra’s the only network that consistently works outside of capital cities.

Troubridge Point Yorke Peninsula SA
Coast hugging, Troubridge Point, Yorke Peninsula, SA (photo: Lee Atkinson).

9. Where to go when

Clockwise or anti-clockwise, that’s the million-dollar question when you’re about to head off on the Big Lap. Whether you turn left or right out of your driveway depends on when you go – if it’s summer, head south, if it’s winter, head north or aim for the red centre. The wet season, which cuts roads and closes national parks anywhere north of the Tropic of Capricorn, can be anytime from November through to May, although it (usually) really only starts to rain in mid to late December and can be all over by April.

The back way, Gippsland, (photo: Lee Atkinson),
The back way, Gippsland, (photo: Lee Atkinson),

10. How long will it take?

How long have you got? Know that however long you go for, it won’t be enough – Australia’s a big place and you could spend a lifetime and still not see it all. On the other hand, you’d be amazed at how far you can go in just four weeks. We spent 42 weeks on the road, and didn’t go where most do go, but did go where many people don’t.

11. How much will it cost?

Everyone’s trip is different, depending on what you drive, where you go, where you stay and what you eat and drink. We were in a 4WD and towing an off-road camper trailer. In terms of day-to-day expenses we averaged just under $150 a day, including fuel, camping fees and the occasional night in a pub if the weather was foul, food and alcohol – we probably could have got that down a little if my partner was a better fisherman, and if I’d chosen cheaper wine, but hey, life’s too short!

12. Can I take my dog?

Many caravan parks will accept well-behaved pets on a leash, but always check before you book rather than on arrival. Pets are not allowed in national parks, even for day visits or picnics. If you want to bush camp with pets, choose state forests instead.

You can read all about Lee’s epic road trip in her book, The Big Lap.
The Big Lap by Lee Atkinson

The Big Lap by Lee Atkinson.

 

“We took the road less travelled whenever we could, camping in national parks and other wild places where few other travellers go," says Atkinson. “We found some truly amazing places and saw some fantastic things, and this book is the result, a showcase of some of the most scenic spots in Australia." Featuring hundreds of beautiful images, the book is the pictorial diary of her journey with detailed captions telling the stories behind the images. The Big Lap costs $35, (including postage), from ozyroadtripper.com.au

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Your guide to slowing down in the Yarra Valley & Dandenong Ranges

There’s no better place to unwind than the Yarra Valley and Dandenong Ranges – a leafy and idyllic region shrouded in mist, fern-filled gullies and a peaceful atmosphere.

Wrapped in the crisp mountain air, ancient ferns and ethereally verdant landscapes of the Yarra Valley and Dandenong Ranges , you’d be forgiven for thinking you’re in another world (or at least another part of the planet).

But this gorgeous pocket is under an hour from Melbourne, a mix of top-notch food and wine, boutique stays and forested scenery that make for an easy weekend away or even a midweek escape. In fact, visiting during the week can offer a deeply relaxing experience, with fewer crowds and more space to linger.

If you’re keen to unwind, here’s how to spend your time in this idyllic neck of the woods.

Where to eat

Yarra Valley Dairy
Treat your taste buds to Yarra Valley Dairy. (Image: Visit Victoria)

From farm gates to cosy eateries, the Yarra Valley and Dandenong Ranges house a plethora of places to feast. Start your day with a leisurely brunch and coffee at Ripe . This local hangout combines warm hospitality and hearty cafe fare against a backdrop of the hills’ iconic tree-fern canopies. It’s also nestled in the heart of Sassafras, the quaint village that best captures the Dandenong Ranges’ old-world charm.

Next, take yourself on a gastronomic adventure. Visit Yarra Valley Dairy , a regional favourite doing handmade cheeses, or Cherry Hill Orchards , where in summer you can pick your own cherries and enjoy them in the farm’s picturesque grounds. Treat yourself to a tasting at one of the Yarra Valley’s renowned wineries to finish – Rochford , Re’em and De Bortoli are standout picks for a sample of the region’s signature drops.

By night, book a table at either Citrine in the mountain town of Olinda or restaurant 1309 at Balgownie Estate in the Yarra Valley. Both do elevated seasonal fare paired with excellent drinks.

And if you’re simply in the mood for a tipple, you’re spoiled for choice. The Alpine Hotel in riverside Warburton is a historic and character-filled spot pouring pints and locally made drinks, while Four Pillars is a must for gin lovers. The distillery’s award-winning spirits are famed nationwide, but here you can try them right from the source.

Things to do outdoors

two people walking through Dandenong Ranges National Park
Wander the Dandenong Ranges National Park.

A motley patchwork of misty rainforest, rugged bushscapes and beautifully tended gardens, the Yarra Valley and Dandenong Ranges are some of Melbourne’s most scenic pockets. No visit to the region would be complete without a wander through its lush surrounds, either by bike or on foot.

The Ngurrak Barring trail stretches 39 kilometres through the Dandenong Ranges, connecting the towns and fern-filled forests that make the hills so unique. Along the way, be immersed in thought-provoking art installations and cultural stories, sharing a different perspective of this ancient landscape.

While in the area, wander through Cloudehill Garden & Nursery and the Dandenong Ranges Botanic Gardens , situated in Olinda. The cooler climate, rich volcanic soil and consistent rainfall offer both gardens ideal conditions for vivid and vibrant flora.

Over in the Yarra Valley, the 40-kilometre Lilydale to Warburton Rail Trail is a flat and family-friendly path perfect for leisurely bike rides and longer walks. It takes you through vine-lined scenery and towns like Seville and Wandin. Biking enthusiasts should head to the Warburton Mountain Bike Destination, a network of 160 kilometres of trails that traverse through untamed terrain.

For a more laidback outing, Alowyn Gardens encompasses seven acres of themed gardens perfect for a meandering stroll. The nearly 100-metre-long wisteria archway that connects different garden zones is a highlight – especially in October, when the lilac blossoms are in spectacular bloom.

The arts and culture scene

TarraWarra Museum of Art
Take in the displays at TarraWarra Museum of Art. (Image: Visit Victoria)

Yarra Valley and the Dandenong Ranges are havens for arts and culture thanks to their inspiring landscapes and thriving creative community. Naturally, a slower escape should include a visit to some of the region’s best studios and galleries.

The TarraWarra Museum of Art in Healesville showcases modern and contemporary Australian art, with both a permanent collection and a rotating display of thoughtful exhibitions. The building and grounds are well worth exploring: a striking architectural landmark amid landscaped lawns and open-air sculptures overlooking the Yarra Valley.

Delve into the area’s rich history at the Yarra Ranges Regional Museum , a treasure trove of more than 13,000 unique pieces. See everything from Indigenous artefacts to archival photographs and historical objects that tell the region’s story.

On your way back to the city, stop by the leafy enclave of Eltham to discover Montsalvat . This five-acre artistic playground is Australia’s oldest continuous art community, combining galleries, Gothic-style buildings and expansive heritage gardens.

Stay at a local retreat

Re’em yarra valley accommodation
Re’em is an ideal pick for an indulgent stay.

No matter your style, and no matter your budget, you’ll find a suitable spot in the region to rest your head. If the weather is warm and the sky is clear, set up a tent at BIG4 Yarra Valley Park Lane Holiday Park or Pine Hill Cabin & Caravan Park. The former has secluded camping spots surrounded by tranquil bushland and local wildlife, along with glamping pods and cabins. The latter has powered and unpowered sites suitable for all kinds of campers, and is pet-friendly if you’re travelling with your four-legged friend.

Or, book yourself into the RACV Healesville Country Club & Resort – a sprawling retreat complete with stylish rooms and luxe amenities that invite you to unwind. Relax at the day spa, tee off at the 18-hole golf course, or recharge with a round of tennis or a few laps in the pool.

And if you’re after something truly indulgent, Re’em is an ideal pick. A boutique collection of just 16, the luxuriously appointed rooms feature plush linens, high-end amenities and oversized baths with panoramic views across the estate. A gourmet breakfast showcasing gorgeous local produce is also included.

Start planning your reset getaway at visityarravalley.com.au.