Driving the Big Lap of Australia12 things to know

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Dreaming about driving off into the sunset and doing a big lap of Australia?

Travel writer and photographer Lee Atkinson has just returned from an epic 10-month, 40,000km road trip around the country, and written a book about it (see below). Here are her top 12 road trip travel hacks you need to know before you hit the road.

1. What to drive

You don’t need a 4WD to drive around Australia, but you do need low range gearing to reach some of the most beautiful bits, because the really wild, wondrous places are almost always in out of the way places. If you are towing a van or camper trailer opt for a turbodiesel, because this type of engine works more efficiently than a petrol for towing and diesel is more readily available in remote areas. And go for an automatic, because autos allow you to just stick it in drive and concentrate on other things.

lower tyre pressure
Deep sand means it’s time to lower tyre pressures (photo: Lee Atkinson).

2. To tow or not to tow?

The number one mistake most people make when choosing whether to buy a caravan, motorhome or camper trailer is to think in terms of what it will be like to live in, rather than where they can take it. If you’re planning to spend most of your time on main roads and want to stay in towns or caravan parks, a caravan or motorhome is a great option. But if your idea of a good time is taking the roads less travelled and getting out into national parks and wild places a camper trailer or a roof-top tent is a better choice. Bigger is not always better. There’s an exponential relationship between the size of your caravan or trailer and the extent to which you can get off the beaten track.

3. Before you go…

If you’ve never been outback or off-road before sign up for a 4WD training course. It will teach you how to use the vehicle to its full potential, how to get yourself out of tight spots and, most importantly, how to use recovery gear. Google ‘4WD driver training’. Same goes for towing: not only do you get plenty of time, and traffic-free space, to learn how to manoeuvre and reverse park your vehicle with a caravan or trailer in tow, you’ll also pick up lots of technical and safety information and handy tips. Tow-ed operates courses in most capital cities and regional centres and will lend you a van if you want to learn before you buy.

Colourful campsite Rainbow Cliffs Arnhem Land
Colourful campsite, Rainbow Cliffs, Arnhem Land (photo: Lee Atkinson).

4. What tools do you need?

A basic tool kit should include a jack, jacking plate and wheel replacement tools, spare tyre, fire extinguisher, emergency fuel supplies (if heading off the beaten track), engine oil, coolant, jumper leads and spare radiator hoses and fan belts and the tools you’ll need to replace them – check out YouTube for DIY tips and bush mechanic lessons. Don’t even think about leaving home without ultimate get-out-of-jail repair kit: cable ties, gaffa tape and fencing wire – with these you can fix just about anything.

5. Getting out of trouble

Getting stuck is inevitable when you’re travelling off the beaten track. You can spend a fortune on fancy recovery gear but there are five things you really can’t do without: we took a pair of Maxx Trax ramps, which you put under the wheels when you’re bogged in sand or mud. They give the tyres something to grip and, as a rule, will launch you out of trouble easily. We also had a long-handled shovel for digging and a snatch strap for those moments when all else failed – all we needed then was somebody else to come along to pull us out, but it was never used. The best way to not get bogged in the first place is to drop tyre pressures to 20psi or less, so we also carried a quality air compressor and an accurate pressure gauge.

6. Essential kit

Never travel without a first aid kit and always carry extra drinking water. Mobile phone coverage can be non-existent in the outback. Hire (or buy) a satellite phone so you can call for help if needed. Some tourist information centres in remote areas have sat phones you can hire, or visit Satellite Hire or  Rent a Sat Phone .

Lee Atkinson's Big Lap map.
Lee Atkinson’s Big Lap map.

7. Map it out

Fighting over which is the right way to go is a major cause of holiday (and marital) breakdown. Don’t rely on the mapping app on your phone – invest in a good GPS. We used Hema Navigator, which features off-road tracks as well as major highways.

8. Keep in touch

These days you can get most of your bills, banks statements etc electronically, which means you can keep the home fires burning relatively easily. Skype is the best thing ever for keeping in touch with friends and family for next to nix. We carried laptops and a 4G mobile wi-fi modem which connects up to 10 devices. Telstra’s the only network that consistently works outside of capital cities.

Troubridge Point Yorke Peninsula SA
Coast hugging, Troubridge Point, Yorke Peninsula, SA (photo: Lee Atkinson).

9. Where to go when

Clockwise or anti-clockwise, that’s the million-dollar question when you’re about to head off on the Big Lap. Whether you turn left or right out of your driveway depends on when you go – if it’s summer, head south, if it’s winter, head north or aim for the red centre. The wet season, which cuts roads and closes national parks anywhere north of the Tropic of Capricorn, can be anytime from November through to May, although it (usually) really only starts to rain in mid to late December and can be all over by April.

The back way, Gippsland, (photo: Lee Atkinson),
The back way, Gippsland, (photo: Lee Atkinson),

10. How long will it take?

How long have you got? Know that however long you go for, it won’t be enough – Australia’s a big place and you could spend a lifetime and still not see it all. On the other hand, you’d be amazed at how far you can go in just four weeks. We spent 42 weeks on the road, and didn’t go where most do go, but did go where many people don’t.

11. How much will it cost?

Everyone’s trip is different, depending on what you drive, where you go, where you stay and what you eat and drink. We were in a 4WD and towing an off-road camper trailer. In terms of day-to-day expenses we averaged just under $150 a day, including fuel, camping fees and the occasional night in a pub if the weather was foul, food and alcohol – we probably could have got that down a little if my partner was a better fisherman, and if I’d chosen cheaper wine, but hey, life’s too short!

12. Can I take my dog?

Many caravan parks will accept well-behaved pets on a leash, but always check before you book rather than on arrival. Pets are not allowed in national parks, even for day visits or picnics. If you want to bush camp with pets, choose state forests instead.

You can read all about Lee’s epic road trip in her book, The Big Lap.
The Big Lap by Lee Atkinson

The Big Lap by Lee Atkinson.

 

“We took the road less travelled whenever we could, camping in national parks and other wild places where few other travellers go," says Atkinson. “We found some truly amazing places and saw some fantastic things, and this book is the result, a showcase of some of the most scenic spots in Australia." Featuring hundreds of beautiful images, the book is the pictorial diary of her journey with detailed captions telling the stories behind the images. The Big Lap costs $35, (including postage), from ozyroadtripper.com.au

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Goat yoga to gastronomy: The ultimate guide to Wimmera Mallee, Vic

A world away from the hustle, bustle and chaos of the big smoke – yet with a distinct sense of familiarity – Victoria’s Wimmera Mallee region is an incomparable place.

Victoria’s Grampians are a visual feast, a seemingly endless vista of craggy cliffs, rolling valleys and untamed bushland. But they’re also much more than a scenic mountain landscape. Diverse and storied, each region within the range has its own rhythm. The Wimmera Mallee – a pocket in the state’s north-west, stretching from Horsham to near Mildura – is one of the most captivating. 

Once known as Victoria’s agricultural heartland, the Wimmera Mallee has evolved in recent years into a dynamic, slightly offbeat hub. It buzzes with a creative hum and welcoming energy, and harbours an eclectic mix of long-time locals and tree-changers. Once you encounter its unmistakable charm, feel its warm country hospitality and taste its nationally celebrated vanilla slice, you may find yourself lingering longer than planned. 

Eager to explore? These must-visit spots let you experience the inimitable spirit of this special part of the world. 

Wimmera Mallee’s quirky attractions

The Dimboola Imaginarium, Wimmera Mallee victoria
Step into the whacky Dimboola Imaginarium. (Image: Denis Bin)

If you’re after something a little more unconventional, the Wimmera Mallee delivers in droves. 

The Dimboola Imaginarium – located in a historic bank building in its namesake town – is a gift shop and boutique accommodation in one. Shop for unique and whimsical keepsakes, stay overnight in an elegant themed room, and lose yourself in one of the Imaginarium’s interactive experiences.  

Also in Dimboola, just a short drive from the Imaginarium, is a menagerie of utter delight. Tiny Goats and Co. is home to a herd of miniature goats, with the farm offering group visits and special events like goat yoga and cuddle sessions. 

Arcade aficionados should visit the Australian Pinball Museum in nearby Nhill. Here, you’ll find the biggest selection of playable pinball machines in the country, featuring modern models and classics dating all the way back to 1931.  

Arts and culture in Wimmera Mallee

Step into the Wimmera Mallee’s storied history at the Stick Shed
Step into history at the Stick Shed. (Image: Visit Vic)

As a thoroughly creative community, it’s no wonder the Wimmera Mallee has a host of venues focused on its rich arts and culture scene. 

Wander Trickbots Metal Art & Sculpture Garden in Nullawil, a winding trail filled with unique and quirky creations fashioned from metal odds, ends and scrap. A walk through the garden is inspiring enough, but consider buying a piece to take home and treasure. 

The town of Nhill also has a significant Karen-Burmese refugee community, who make up 10 per cent of the local population. Discover the artistry of this vibrant culture at Paw Po , where you can purchase traditional hand-woven and textile products. Choose from a selection of beautifully crafted homewares, fashion and dolls. 

Step into the Wimmera Mallee’s storied history at the Stick Shed , the only WWII emergency grain store still standing today. This National Heritage-listed structure takes you on a journey through the region’s agricultural past and is a dramatic sight with its towering and eerily striking timber poles. 

Nature escapes around Wimmera Mallee

pink Lake Tyrrel, Wimmera Mallee, Victoria Australia
Take in the pink hues of Lake Tyrrell. (Image: Visit Vic)

Much like the majestic beauty of the wider Grampians, the Wimmera Mallee is a mélange of serene and spellbinding nature escapes. 

Victoria’s pink lakes are famed nationwide, and two of them are found right here. See the flamingo-pink hues of Loch Iel, particularly vivid after a heavy downpour, or the vast and ancient Lake Tyrrell , which turns pink during wet and warm conditions. 

The Snowdrift dunes in Wyperfeld National Park are ideal for adventurers. Set amid the area’s semi-arid landscape, the dunes are expansive mounds of sand deposited around 40,000 years ago. Hike or sandboard them and make sure to visit at sunset, when the sand glows golden. 

And while some travellers chase the highest peaks, you can see the most modest in the Wimmera Mallee. Standing a mere 43 metres above the surrounding terrain, Mount Wycheproof is considered the smallest registered mountain in the world. Courtesy of its relatively gentle inclines, it’s a lovely spot for a walk and a picnic. 

Culinary adventures in Wimmera Mallee

border inn in the Wimmera Mallee
Meet the locals at Border Inn.

As a region rich in agricultural bounty, it’s little surprise the Wimmera Mallee has such a robust and vibrant food scene. The community is fiercely proud of its local produce, showcasing the flavours and heritage of the area. 

The Border Inn in the village of Apsley is a quaint country pub and meeting spot for the local community, featuring a classic country menu and warm hospitality. 

The Horsham Golf Club is a popular spot for golf buffs with an adjoining bistro and bar. Try a modern twist on hearty favourites while taking in views of the green.  For a taste of the area’s vintages, head to Norton Estate Wines – a boutique wine producer and cellar door open weekends.  

A Wimmera Mallee jaunt wouldn’t be complete without a visit to the famed Sharp’s Bakery in Birchip. Here, you’ll find a velvety vanilla slice that’s been crowned as Australia’s best seven times. 

Wimmera Mallee accommodation

Fulham Homestead in wimmera mallee
Escape to Fulham Homestead.

If you’re enjoying an extended trip, you’ll need somewhere to rest. After a day tackling Wyperfeld’s epic dunes, visit Pine Plains Lodge , also in the national park. Built from reclaimed timber planks and logs, and anchored by rugged stone fireplaces, the lodge is a rustic and cosy hideaway. 

For a refined yet relaxing escape, head to Fulham Homestead – a gorgeously restored guesthouse on an idyllic working farm, complete with farm animals and scenic vistas. Built in the 1840s, it has all the elegance and charm of its heritage, plus contemporary comforts like a modern kitchen, wi-fi and air-conditioning. 

The Hermitage Hotel is Victoria’s oldest inland pub and an equally delightful blend of old and new. The restored rooms are perfectly appointed and adorned with period furnishings and high-quality linens. The pub itself is a favoured food and wine spot among locals and travellers alike. 

If camping is more your style, the Lake Lascelles Cabins and Camping (formerly Mallee Bush Retreat) is a sprawling oasis with powered and unpowered sites and snug cabins. The setting is stunning too, the pristine Lake Lascelles sitting right in its centre. 

Annual events

Wimmera Mallee Nhill Aviation Museum
Time your visit to Nhill Aviation Museum for the annual air show.

You may not need an excuse to revisit the Wimmera Mallee, but these annual and bi-annual events will almost certainly have you returning again and again. 

Each year, the Lake Chalegrark Country Music Marathon takes over the town for a spectacular line-up of musicians from around Australia. The event is easygoing, family-friendly, and set in scenic surrounds on the shores of Lake Charlegrark. 

Every two years, the region holds colourful events like the Wimmera Steampunk Festival , a raucous celebration of 19th-century steampunk culture with a different theme each time; the Nhill Air Show , which features jaw-dropping aerial stunts, aircraft displays, music, activities and more; and the Nati Frinj , a festival of art, culture and performance showcasing the many talents of the Natimuk community. 

From the quirky to the tasty, start planning at visitwimmeramallee.com.au