Driving the Big Lap of Australia12 things to know

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Dreaming about driving off into the sunset and doing a big lap of Australia?

Travel writer and photographer Lee Atkinson has just returned from an epic 10-month, 40,000km road trip around the country, and written a book about it (see below). Here are her top 12 road trip travel hacks you need to know before you hit the road.

1. What to drive

You don’t need a 4WD to drive around Australia, but you do need low range gearing to reach some of the most beautiful bits, because the really wild, wondrous places are almost always in out of the way places. If you are towing a van or camper trailer opt for a turbodiesel, because this type of engine works more efficiently than a petrol for towing and diesel is more readily available in remote areas. And go for an automatic, because autos allow you to just stick it in drive and concentrate on other things.

lower tyre pressure
Deep sand means it’s time to lower tyre pressures (photo: Lee Atkinson).

2. To tow or not to tow?

The number one mistake most people make when choosing whether to buy a caravan, motorhome or camper trailer is to think in terms of what it will be like to live in, rather than where they can take it. If you’re planning to spend most of your time on main roads and want to stay in towns or caravan parks, a caravan or motorhome is a great option. But if your idea of a good time is taking the roads less travelled and getting out into national parks and wild places a camper trailer or a roof-top tent is a better choice. Bigger is not always better. There’s an exponential relationship between the size of your caravan or trailer and the extent to which you can get off the beaten track.

3. Before you go…

If you’ve never been outback or off-road before sign up for a 4WD training course. It will teach you how to use the vehicle to its full potential, how to get yourself out of tight spots and, most importantly, how to use recovery gear. Google ‘4WD driver training’. Same goes for towing: not only do you get plenty of time, and traffic-free space, to learn how to manoeuvre and reverse park your vehicle with a caravan or trailer in tow, you’ll also pick up lots of technical and safety information and handy tips. Tow-ed operates courses in most capital cities and regional centres and will lend you a van if you want to learn before you buy.

Colourful campsite Rainbow Cliffs Arnhem Land
Colourful campsite, Rainbow Cliffs, Arnhem Land (photo: Lee Atkinson).

4. What tools do you need?

A basic tool kit should include a jack, jacking plate and wheel replacement tools, spare tyre, fire extinguisher, emergency fuel supplies (if heading off the beaten track), engine oil, coolant, jumper leads and spare radiator hoses and fan belts and the tools you’ll need to replace them – check out YouTube for DIY tips and bush mechanic lessons. Don’t even think about leaving home without ultimate get-out-of-jail repair kit: cable ties, gaffa tape and fencing wire – with these you can fix just about anything.

5. Getting out of trouble

Getting stuck is inevitable when you’re travelling off the beaten track. You can spend a fortune on fancy recovery gear but there are five things you really can’t do without: we took a pair of Maxx Trax ramps, which you put under the wheels when you’re bogged in sand or mud. They give the tyres something to grip and, as a rule, will launch you out of trouble easily. We also had a long-handled shovel for digging and a snatch strap for those moments when all else failed – all we needed then was somebody else to come along to pull us out, but it was never used. The best way to not get bogged in the first place is to drop tyre pressures to 20psi or less, so we also carried a quality air compressor and an accurate pressure gauge.

6. Essential kit

Never travel without a first aid kit and always carry extra drinking water. Mobile phone coverage can be non-existent in the outback. Hire (or buy) a satellite phone so you can call for help if needed. Some tourist information centres in remote areas have sat phones you can hire, or visit Satellite Hire or  Rent a Sat Phone .

Lee Atkinson's Big Lap map.
Lee Atkinson’s Big Lap map.

7. Map it out

Fighting over which is the right way to go is a major cause of holiday (and marital) breakdown. Don’t rely on the mapping app on your phone – invest in a good GPS. We used Hema Navigator, which features off-road tracks as well as major highways.

8. Keep in touch

These days you can get most of your bills, banks statements etc electronically, which means you can keep the home fires burning relatively easily. Skype is the best thing ever for keeping in touch with friends and family for next to nix. We carried laptops and a 4G mobile wi-fi modem which connects up to 10 devices. Telstra’s the only network that consistently works outside of capital cities.

Troubridge Point Yorke Peninsula SA
Coast hugging, Troubridge Point, Yorke Peninsula, SA (photo: Lee Atkinson).

9. Where to go when

Clockwise or anti-clockwise, that’s the million-dollar question when you’re about to head off on the Big Lap. Whether you turn left or right out of your driveway depends on when you go – if it’s summer, head south, if it’s winter, head north or aim for the red centre. The wet season, which cuts roads and closes national parks anywhere north of the Tropic of Capricorn, can be anytime from November through to May, although it (usually) really only starts to rain in mid to late December and can be all over by April.

The back way, Gippsland, (photo: Lee Atkinson),
The back way, Gippsland, (photo: Lee Atkinson),

10. How long will it take?

How long have you got? Know that however long you go for, it won’t be enough – Australia’s a big place and you could spend a lifetime and still not see it all. On the other hand, you’d be amazed at how far you can go in just four weeks. We spent 42 weeks on the road, and didn’t go where most do go, but did go where many people don’t.

11. How much will it cost?

Everyone’s trip is different, depending on what you drive, where you go, where you stay and what you eat and drink. We were in a 4WD and towing an off-road camper trailer. In terms of day-to-day expenses we averaged just under $150 a day, including fuel, camping fees and the occasional night in a pub if the weather was foul, food and alcohol – we probably could have got that down a little if my partner was a better fisherman, and if I’d chosen cheaper wine, but hey, life’s too short!

12. Can I take my dog?

Many caravan parks will accept well-behaved pets on a leash, but always check before you book rather than on arrival. Pets are not allowed in national parks, even for day visits or picnics. If you want to bush camp with pets, choose state forests instead.

You can read all about Lee’s epic road trip in her book, The Big Lap.
The Big Lap by Lee Atkinson

The Big Lap by Lee Atkinson.

 

“We took the road less travelled whenever we could, camping in national parks and other wild places where few other travellers go," says Atkinson. “We found some truly amazing places and saw some fantastic things, and this book is the result, a showcase of some of the most scenic spots in Australia." Featuring hundreds of beautiful images, the book is the pictorial diary of her journey with detailed captions telling the stories behind the images. The Big Lap costs $35, (including postage), from ozyroadtripper.com.au

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These new small group tours allow intimate access to Australia’s best experiences

Big skies and otherworldly landscapes are the hallmarks of Australia. Discovering them in-depth becomes easier with the experts.

Australia’s extraordinary landscapes make this vast continent like no other place on Earth, offering an unforgettable feast for the senses as you traverse deserts, cruise on vast inland lakes and dine under star-studded skies. What makes this land special is the people you’ll meet along the way, and the chance to forge a deep connection with the country and its people. The new AAT Kings small-group tours focus on the incredible experiences available in remote places that might otherwise seem daunting.

With an average of 16 guests and a maximum of 24, the tours offer intimate access to the best Australia has to offer, with special behind-the-scenes encounters led by knowledgeable experts.

1. Tasmania and Flinders Island Explorer

aerial shot of flinders island tasmania
Fly over beautiful Flinders Island as part of a tour of Tasmania. (Image: Luke Tscharke)

Escape the tourist trail in north-eastern Tasmania while still seeing everything the island state has to offer. From coastal villages to bucolic rural scenery, the six-day Tasmania and Flinders Island Explorer tour offers world-class food and wine, with the bonus of a flight to Flinders Island.

From Launceston, the tour winds through the verdant Tamar Valley and includes a stop at Fork It Farm , where guests are given insight into sustainable farming while snacking on a house-made charcuterie platter paired with Tasmanian wines.

Fly by private plane to secluded Flinders Island, uncovering pristine beaches and savouring local seafood and wine. Explore the main settlement and learn about the history of Settlement Point and Wybalenna before soaking up views of the island and Bass Strait and exploring part of Strzelecki National Park . From there, it’s another scenic flight to Bicheno, flying down the east coast of Tasmania and across the stunning Bay of Fires and Wineglass Bay (a taste of what’s to come by land).

Other highlights include the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Brickendon Estate , still run by the same family since its founding in 1824, where the property’s convict history will be revealed.

In Devonport, a heritage train ride will track alongside the Don River to Coles Beach before returning to learn more about Tasmania’s railway history and vintage locomotives at Don River Railway .

2. South Australian Outback Adventure

aerial of Anna Creek Painted Hills
Fly over the Anna Creek Painted Hills. (Image: Emile Ristevski)

From Adelaide, the highlights of the eight-day South Australian Outback Adventure tour open up the rugged grandeur of the Flinders Ranges, Wilpena Pound and Arkaroola. Home to the Adnyamathanha people for tens of thousands of years, the natural beauty and wide open spaces of this remote region unfold as you explore from both land and air.

Looking to the skies for a new way to experience South Australia’s outback, a scenic flight over the striking outcrops of the colourful Anna Creek Painted Hills and the shimmering saltpan of Kati Thanda-Lake Eyre is an eye-opener like no other.

Wilpena Pound Resort, owned and managed by the Indigenous community, is a haven in the midst of Ikara-Flinders Ranges National Park . It’s worth the hike to enjoy sweeping views over the natural amphitheatre before your journey continues through dramatic gorges, where you may spot endangered yellow-footed rock-wallabies.

At the award-winning Arkaroola Wilderness Sanctuary, dive deep into the region’s billion-year-old geological history with an expert guide as you tackle the steep ascent of the Ridgetop Track in an open-air 4WD. When the sun goes down, look up at the dazzling wonders of the Milky Way in this International Dark Sky Sanctuary.

3. Broome and the Kimberley Highlights

small plane flying over the Bungle Bungle Ranges
See the iconic Bungle Bungle Ranges from the air. (Image: Tourism WA)

From Broome’s sparkling beaches to the red dirt of Kununurra, the Kimberley region is one of Australia’s most extraordinary and unforgettable places. It’s a region of contrasts, beginning with multicultural Broome and the history of pearl divers.

Kick off your Broome and the Kimberley Highlights experience with a tour of Broome led by a local Aboriginal guide. You’ll learn about 40,000 years of culture as you explore historic landmarks, discover bush foods and medicinal plants and enjoy a private didgeridoo performance.

Learn about Broome’s rich pearling history at Willie Creek Pearl Farm , on the banks of a turquoise tidal estuary that provides the perfect environment for growing the South Sea pearls for which Broome is world-renowned. Then cruise the calm waters to see the oyster farm before a masterclass that reveals the secrets of the pearl industry.

As you continue your discovery of the Kimberley, fly over the dramatic striped domes of the Bungle Bungle Range, the Argyle Diamond Mine and gorgeous Lake Argyle, Western Australia’s largest freshwater body of water. Take a sunset cruise on the lake, which is dotted with more than 70 islands and is a birdwatcher’s paradise. The water teems with freshwater crocodiles, barramundi, bream and cod.

Complete your seven-day exploration of the Kimberley in Kununurra with a local Aboriginal guide to hear Dreamtime stories and wander through the ‘mini bungles’ of Mirima National Park.

4. Outback Contrasts

aat kings small group tours at Karrke Aboriginal Cultural Experience
Expand your knowledge at Karrke Aboriginal Cultural Experience. (Image: Tourism NT/ ArchieSartracom)

From Alice Springs, the six-day Outback Contrasts adventure includes the wonders of Uluru, Kata Tjuta and Kings Canyon, offering premium accommodation and exceptional experiences. Ancient rock art, creation stories and the spiritual essence of the land will be revealed as you discover some of Australia’s most iconic landmarks.

A highlight of your stay in Alice Springs will be meeting chef Rayleen Brown, who shares her knowledge of Aboriginal native foods with a tasting of the many flavours of Central Australia’s wild harvest bush tucker. More culinary indulgence will follow at Discovery Resorts – Kings Canyon in the heart of Watarrka National Park, where you’ll enjoy a degustation menu and paired fine wines under the desert moon.

After a sunrise walk on the rim of Kings Canyon, head off to the Wanmarra community to learn about the Luritja and Pertame people’s spiritual connection to the land at Karrke Aboriginal Cultural Experience. Crossing desert scenes, you’ll arrive at Uluru and end the day watching the setting sun’s changing palette on the ancient landscape.

More awe-inspiring landscapes will be revealed as you wander between Kata Tjuta’s tallest domes in Walpa Gorge and explore the rugged beauty of Simpsons Gap in the West MacDonnell Ranges.

Start planning your small group adventure with AAT Kings.