Sketching the country onboard the Great Southern

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The Great Southern that connects Brisbane and Adelaide is a rail journey of a lifetime, rendering a vivid image of the vast landscapes it traverses.

Distance is not measured in kilometres onboard the Great Southern that travels between Brisbane and Adelaide. Instead, vignettes of rural Australia serve as waymarkers: A white mare flicking its tail on the emerald slopes of the Byron hinterland; A lone shack – weatherboarded and timeworn – perched by the briny banks of the Hawkesbury River; Silos rising from the golden grasslands of regional Victoria, rendered tender in the honeyed glow of the evening sun.

In the early 20th century, Australian bush poet Henry Lawson popularised ‘the sketch’ – a literary form consisting of a short, descriptive narrative containing little plot, if any at all. Before the advent of mainstream photography, ‘the sketch’ served to evoke the essence of a place and transport readers, however briefly, into an unfamiliar world.

feet relaxing by the window of a train, The Great Southern
While away the day by the window.

Journeying aboard the Great Southern feels analogous. From the window of my cabin, pastoral scenes rush by, fading from view just as quickly as they enter. The motion of the train melds the colours – all dusty greens, mottled browns and smoky greys – into painterly impressions, rough sketches of life in the country.

Just like ‘the sketch’, there is no plot to the sequence; each scene is stitched together only by threads of the imagination that conjure up fleeting images of what life might look like in the places we pass by. In another life, I’m watching the train pass me instead. From the quaint cottage with a horse in its paddock. The sun-bleached porch of the riverside shack. The dinky little farmhouse on Victorian cattle country.

Over four states, three days and 2885 kilometres of railroad, the Great Southern renders a sketch of the country. It’s a mammoth journey that takes in diverse landscapes, food and people from all walks of life.

The Great Southern passing through Boambee Creek
The Great Southern traces the country from coast to bush.

Tracking down dinner in Coffs Harbour

Smoke perfumes the air like incense as we’re welcomed to Gumbaynggirr Country. A crescent moon hangs above us like an opalescent crack in the sky, dusk mellowing the coastal hues of the landscape, now a delicate wash of seafoam, terracotta and ivory. We’ve disembarked at Coffs Harbour for the Great Southern’s first off-train excursion, a beachside dinner that showcases al fresco dining at its very finest.

an aerial view of the Great Southern train passing through Coffs Harbour
The 700-metre-plus Great Southern train passes through Coffs Harbour on NSW’s North Coast.

Long tables have been set out, dressed in fresh white and festooned with fairy lights, perfectly encapsulating the airy coastal charm of the setting. Caterers have plated up a taste of the region. There are oysters from Nambucca Heads, so fresh the brackishness is palpable. Beef from Casino paired with potatoes from Dorrigo (aka ‘spud country’). And, best of all, local bananas that have been crafted into sumptuous bites of banoffee tart for dessert.

As we dine, we’re accompanied by the sound of the ocean’s churn, the croon of a live jazz band and the ebullient buzz of chatter among fellow passengers getting to know one another. They may be strangers now, but once the train reaches its terminus, many will disembark as friends. This is thanks to the social nature of the Great Southern, where the lounge and bar car serve as the communal hub and beating heart of the train. Back onboard, I make a beeline for the bar as soon as I hear the engine begin to hiss and groan into motion.

an al fresco dinner by the beach in Coffs Harbour
Enjoy an evening to remember by the beach in Coffs Harbour.

A snapshot of daily life onboard

The carriage is flush with crimson and gold, Tasmanian Blackwood timber and Art Deco flourishes – a nod to an era when rail travel was in its prime. Entering the bar feels like stepping into a Hitchcock film. It’s not just the old-world feel of it all – I’m walking in the opposite direction of motion, giving the surreal effect of the filmmaker’s infamous ‘Dolly Zoom’ as I approach the bar.

wine and food onboard The Great Southern
Enjoy a tipple from the comfort of your private cabin.

I order a nightcap of Baileys over ice and soak in the evening’s entertainment – singalong tunes courtesy of guitarist and vocalist Kev Jones. The vintage theme is reflected in the song choices – Kev has come prepared with an arsenal of golden oldies, from Billie Holiday to The Beatles and Elvis’s entire discography.

Kev singles me out to sing the vocals on ABBA’s Dancing Queen and, despite my best efforts to decline the invitation, I end up in front of the car, reluctantly holding the microphone. I’m not singing the right lyrics, in the right key, or even the right tune. But none of that matters. The whole carriage is singing along with me, erupting when it comes to the chorus. The train hurtles on through the night.

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Riding on a night train

When I retire to my cabin, I find that the room has miraculously been made up, the couch transformed into a cosy, single berth. I settle in, keeping the blinds open so I can watch the skeletal silhouettes of the eucalypts whizz past.

the JBRE Accommodation Platinum Service Cabin bed onboard the Great Southern
Couches are transformed into comfy beds come nightfall.

There’s something enduringly romantic about riding a night train; the latent sense of adventure; the link to a bygone era; the fact that it’s a prevailing, almost archetypal symbol in literature and folk music.

Henry Lawson surmised the sentiment best in On The Night Train, a poem he wrote in 1922 that would also be one of his last: Have you seen the bush by moonlight, from the train, go running by? / Blackened log and stump and sapling, ghostly trees all dead and dry.

I think of all who have taken in similar vistas before me, swagmen stowing away on freight trains as they moved through the country, commuters and coal miners throughout the ages. Sleep finds me eventually, and I’m rocked into a restful repose by the rumbling of the locomotive charging due south.

The Great Southern railway tracks
The Great Southern railway tracks connect Brisbane and Adelaide.

A stopover in Port Stephens

There are no roads to Tin City. Instead, I’m bouncing over sand dunes in the back of a 4WD bus as our guide, Craig Hallam, steers us onto Stockton Beach in Newcastle, NSW. While the majority of passengers have opted for a wine-tasting excursion in the Hunter, an intrepid few of us have set out exploring Port Stephens by land.

The evening primrose flowers leap out in contrast against the overcast grey of the morning. A colony of pied oystercatchers totter across the beach, poking their orange bills in the sand in search of pipis. A white-bellied sea eagle sits regally, hidden among the scrub. “These are the largest moving sand dunes in the southern hemisphere," Craig booms over the intercom as fellow passengers and I rock and sway in our seats.

Port Stephens 4WD Tours on Stockton Beach
Explore Stockton Beach with Port Stephens 4WD Tours.

A Sahara-like scene looms behind us, mighty dunes that can rise up to 30 metres tall and reach a gradient of more than that of the world’s steepest ski pistes. This is the backdrop to Tin City, a shantytown of a dozen shacks at the end of the beach. Originally built for shipwrecked sailors in the early 1900s, the settlement mushroomed in the Great Depression of the ’30s. Now, there are just three permanent residents.

Each shack is a motley patchwork of scrap metal, taking ‘off-grid living’ to a new level. The height of tech here is a beer keg strapped to the roof of a resident’s house “so the sun can heat the water for hot showers".

If this sounds like something straight out of Mad Max, that’s because it is – Tin City appeared in the original 1979 action flick. But stranger than fiction is the real-life post-apocalyptic undertones of the beach. Traces of the region’s Second World War military history are very much alive today, in unearthed explosives scattered across the sand. “Every few years, they’ll uncover something they didn’t know was here," Craig explains. Recently, a bomb had to be blown up onsite and, not long before that, a dog presented its owner with an unexploded military mortar during a game of fetch.

A beer can’s kick away, two residents sit chatting beneath the shade of one of the shacks. On the roof, a black flag flutters in the wind. There’s something drawn on it that I can’t quite make out, so I ask Craig if he knows what it is. “I sure do," he replies with a chuckle. “It’s the Jack Daniels logo."

the desert town of Tin City
Tin City is an off-grid shantytown dating back to the early 1900s.

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Travelling over the Hawkesbury River

Launched in 2019, Great Southern is the latest to join Journey Beyond’s fleet of great Australian rail journeys. Although it’s in its infancy compared to historic trains such as The Ghan, what the Great Southern lacks in age it makes up for in vistas.

“As far as I’m concerned, the [Great Southern] is certainly a superior journey for the scenery," says Bruce Smith, service operation manager of the train. And he would know. Bruce has worked on trains for 28 years, journeying all over the country with passengers among the likes of late PM Bob Hawke, singer Paul Kelly and actress Margot Robbie. Bruce isn’t the type to get starstruck, but certain sections of the route never fail to arrest him. The Hawkesbury River is one of them, and its bush-clad banks and gleaming boat-flecked bays are rolling into view now.

Aerial view of Hawkesbur River Rail Bridge
Arresting views of the Hawkesbury River can be seen as you pass over the bridge. (Image: Elias Bitar via Getty Images)

We cross over the Hawkesbury River railway bridge, which was the final link connecting the rail network between Adelaide, Melbourne, Sydney and Brisbane. Built in 1889, it was a major feat of 19th-century engineering. I imagine the first train passengers crossing it, hovering over the dimpled green water for nearly a kilometre, vaulting towards the warm sandstone shades of Darkinjung Country, captivated by it all as I am now.

A winery stop in Inverleigh

We alight in Inverleigh in regional Victoria, where we spend the afternoon lingering over a long lunch at the family-owned Clyde Park Winery. Nearly all the ingredients come from within a 20-kilometre radius. There’s local duck served glazed and sticky on a woodfired Peking duck pizza, roast lamb from ‘just across the river’ that’s been rubbed generously with herbs from the garden and succulent pork belly from a nearby farm. I sample the pinot noir: the crisp cherry, strawberry and rosewater notes refreshing my palate between bites.

food and wine on the table at Clyde Park
Clyde Park draws upon local produce. (Image: Carl Wilson)

I return to the train so stuffed that I’m forced to pass on dinner, but I opt for a drink in the Queen Adelaide dining car to soak up the ambience. The sunset pierces the window, illuminating the bubbles rising in my Champagne glass and flooding the carriage with a honeyed hue.

the green landscape of Moorabool Valley at Clyde Park
Be ensconced in the greens of the Moorabool Valley as you wine and dine at Clyde Park. (Image: Carl Wilson)
a staff of an Art Deco-inspired Queen Adelaide dining car holding plates of food
Settle into an Art Deco-inspired Queen Adelaide dining car. (Image: Cam Inniss)

I watch snapshots of the country flash by in the day’s final light. Stringy eucalypts reflecting in glassy patches of water. Cows roaming across the tawny grass. Haze filming over mountains in the distance. These are the final wayposts on the route of the Great Southern, completing the final leg of its journey through the nation’s bucolic heart.

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Elizabeth Whitehead
Elizabeth Whitehead is a writer obsessed with all things culture; doesn't matter if it's pop culture or cultures of the world. She graduated with a degree in History from the University of Sydney (after dropping out from Maths). Her bylines span AFAR, Lonely Planet, ELLE, Harper's BAZAAR and Refinery 29. Her work for Australian Traveller was shortlisted for single article of the year at the Mumbrella Publishing Awards 2024. She is very lucky in thrifting, very unlucky in UNO.
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Goat yoga to gastronomy: The ultimate guide to Wimmera Mallee, Vic

    Gemma Kaczerepa Gemma Kaczerepa
    A world away from the hustle, bustle and chaos of the big smoke – yet with a distinct sense of familiarity – Victoria’s Wimmera Mallee region is an incomparable place.

    Victoria’s Grampians are a visual feast, a seemingly endless vista of craggy cliffs, rolling valleys and untamed bushland. But they’re also much more than a scenic mountain landscape. Diverse and storied, each region within the range has its own rhythm. The Wimmera Mallee – a pocket in the state’s north-west, stretching from Horsham to near Mildura – is one of the most captivating. 

    Once known as Victoria’s agricultural heartland, the Wimmera Mallee has evolved in recent years into a dynamic, slightly offbeat hub. It buzzes with a creative hum and welcoming energy, and harbours an eclectic mix of long-time locals and tree-changers. Once you encounter its unmistakable charm, feel its warm country hospitality and taste its nationally celebrated vanilla slice, you may find yourself lingering longer than planned. 

    Eager to explore? These must-visit spots let you experience the inimitable spirit of this special part of the world. 

    Wimmera Mallee’s quirky attractions

    The Dimboola Imaginarium, Wimmera Mallee victoria
    Step into the whacky Dimboola Imaginarium. (Image: Denis Bin)

    If you’re after something a little more unconventional, the Wimmera Mallee delivers in droves. 

    The Dimboola Imaginarium – located in a historic bank building in its namesake town – is a gift shop and boutique accommodation in one. Shop for unique and whimsical keepsakes, stay overnight in an elegant themed room, and lose yourself in one of the Imaginarium’s interactive experiences.  

    Also in Dimboola, just a short drive from the Imaginarium, is a menagerie of utter delight. Tiny Goats and Co. is home to a herd of miniature goats, with the farm offering group visits and special events like goat yoga and cuddle sessions. 

    Arcade aficionados should visit the Australian Pinball Museum in nearby Nhill. Here, you’ll find the biggest selection of playable pinball machines in the country, featuring modern models and classics dating all the way back to 1931.  

    Arts and culture in Wimmera Mallee

    Step into the Wimmera Mallee’s storied history at the Stick Shed
    Step into history at the Stick Shed. (Image: Visit Vic)

    As a thoroughly creative community, it’s no wonder the Wimmera Mallee has a host of venues focused on its rich arts and culture scene. 

    Wander Trickbots Metal Art & Sculpture Garden in Nullawil, a winding trail filled with unique and quirky creations fashioned from metal odds, ends and scrap. A walk through the garden is inspiring enough, but consider buying a piece to take home and treasure. 

    The town of Nhill also has a significant Karen-Burmese refugee community, who make up 10 per cent of the local population. Discover the artistry of this vibrant culture at Paw Po, where you can purchase traditional hand-woven and textile products. Choose from a selection of beautifully crafted homewares, fashion and dolls. 

    Step into the Wimmera Mallee’s storied history at the Stick Shed, the only WWII emergency grain store still standing today. This National Heritage-listed structure takes you on a journey through the region’s agricultural past and is a dramatic sight with its towering and eerily striking timber poles. 

    Nature escapes around Wimmera Mallee

    pink Lake Tyrrel, Wimmera Mallee, Victoria Australia
    Take in the pink hues of Lake Tyrrell. (Image: Visit Vic)

    Much like the majestic beauty of the wider Grampians, the Wimmera Mallee is a mélange of serene and spellbinding nature escapes. 

    Victoria’s pink lakes are famed nationwide, and two of them are found right here. See the flamingo-pink hues of Loch Iel, particularly vivid after a heavy downpour, or the vast and ancient Lake Tyrrell, which turns pink during wet and warm conditions. 

    The Snowdrift dunes in Wyperfeld National Park are ideal for adventurers. Set amid the area’s semi-arid landscape, the dunes are expansive mounds of sand deposited around 40,000 years ago. Hike or sandboard them and make sure to visit at sunset, when the sand glows golden. 

    And while some travellers chase the highest peaks, you can see the most modest in the Wimmera Mallee. Standing a mere 43 metres above the surrounding terrain, Mount Wycheproof is considered the smallest registered mountain in the world. Courtesy of its relatively gentle inclines, it’s a lovely spot for a walk and a picnic. 

    Culinary adventures in Wimmera Mallee

    border inn in the Wimmera Mallee
    Meet the locals at Border Inn.

    As a region rich in agricultural bounty, it’s little surprise the Wimmera Mallee has such a robust and vibrant food scene. The community is fiercely proud of its local produce, showcasing the flavours and heritage of the area. 

    The Border Inn in the village of Apsley is a quaint country pub and meeting spot for the local community, featuring a classic country menu and warm hospitality. 

    The Horsham Golf Club is a popular spot for golf buffs with an adjoining bistro and bar. Try a modern twist on hearty favourites while taking in views of the green.  For a taste of the area’s vintages, head to Norton Estate Wines – a boutique wine producer and cellar door open weekends.  

    A Wimmera Mallee jaunt wouldn’t be complete without a visit to the famed Sharp’s Bakery in Birchip. Here, you’ll find a velvety vanilla slice that’s been crowned as Australia’s best seven times. 

    Wimmera Mallee accommodation

    Fulham Homestead in wimmera mallee
    Escape to Fulham Homestead.

    If you’re enjoying an extended trip, you’ll need somewhere to rest. After a day tackling Wyperfeld’s epic dunes, visit Pine Plains Lodge, also in the national park. Built from reclaimed timber planks and logs, and anchored by rugged stone fireplaces, the lodge is a rustic and cosy hideaway. 

    For a refined yet relaxing escape, head to Fulham Homestead – a gorgeously restored guesthouse on an idyllic working farm, complete with farm animals and scenic vistas. Built in the 1840s, it has all the elegance and charm of its heritage, plus contemporary comforts like a modern kitchen, wi-fi and air-conditioning. 

    The Hermitage Hotel is Victoria’s oldest inland pub and an equally delightful blend of old and new. The restored rooms are perfectly appointed and adorned with period furnishings and high-quality linens. The pub itself is a favoured food and wine spot among locals and travellers alike. 

    If camping is more your style, the Lake Lascelles Cabins and Camping (formerly Mallee Bush Retreat) is a sprawling oasis with powered and unpowered sites and snug cabins. The setting is stunning too, the pristine Lake Lascelles sitting right in its centre. 

    Annual events

    Wimmera Mallee Nhill Aviation Museum
    Time your visit to Nhill Aviation Museum for the annual air show.

    You may not need an excuse to revisit the Wimmera Mallee, but these annual and bi-annual events will almost certainly have you returning again and again. 

    Each year, the Lake Chalegrark Country Music Marathon takes over the town for a spectacular line-up of musicians from around Australia. The event is easygoing, family-friendly, and set in scenic surrounds on the shores of Lake Charlegrark. 

    Every two years, the region holds colourful events like the Wimmera Steampunk Festival, a raucous celebration of 19th-century steampunk culture with a different theme each time; the Nhill Air Show, which features jaw-dropping aerial stunts, aircraft displays, music, activities and more; and the Nati Frinj, a festival of art, culture and performance showcasing the many talents of the Natimuk community. 

    From the quirky to the tasty, start planning at visitwimmeramallee.com.au

    The Great Southern Rail Journey - Australian Traveller