Denise Bowden on getting to a place of celebrating Indigenous culture

Denise Bowden is the chief executive officer of the Yothu Yindi Foundation and the director of Garma, Australia’s leading Indigenous event that celebrates the ancient culture and traditions of the Yolngu people and provides an environment where people from all over the country can gather to listen, learn and exchange ideas.

There’s got to be something in 60,000-plus years, right? There’s got to be something of some quality for it to have survived, and not only survived, but in our neck of the woods out in Arnhem Land it’s prospering. It’s rich and it’s culturally authentic. Some of Australia’s most prolific Indigenous artists come from Arnhem Land and they’re exhibiting over in New York and Paris, but there’s more substance to it than being purely pretty art. It’s got to be more than just seeing the beauty in the art because if you don’t understand it holistically, you’re only a tiny bit into something that is so deep and philosophical. There’s extensive historical components to Indigenous cultural art, religious components even, and you really do have to be prepared to throw yourself into it to understand its angles. I find a lot of people are terrified of doing that, and you know what, we know.

A reciprocal relationship of respect

We’re waiting for you. Indigenous people have a profound respect for Western civilisation and church and religions and the way that people live in their certain lifestyles, however, it should be a reciprocal relationship. There’s got to be something in seeing that Indigenous culture is also quite sophisticated. If you’re just going to sit there and say, ‘Look, it’s just a bit of a sermon, a dance’, it tells me that you don’t know very much about Indigenous culture at all.

Generations of the Gumatj clan prepare to tell their stories as part of Garma Festival 2019. (Image: Elise Hassey)

Wouldn’t it be wonderful to be able to talk about Indigenous culture in an amazingly positive and reconciled, true way? We could be leaders in an international field, however, we haven’t quite gotten there yet. I think that a lot of the resistance is due to the fact that it’s terrifying: what happens if I make a mistake along the way? But our community knows you’re going to make a mistake and we’re OK with that.

We’ve also got to stop doing things like hurling racial abuse on the football oval and understand what impact that has on society. Surely we’ve got to be a little bit more mature about the way that we manage that. It does nobody any good. The mindset that exists when that sort of thing happens sets our nation back many years. But I also see positivity.

I’ve been at the Yothu Yindi Foundation for 11 years now, and I have seen a fundamental shift and it’s been measured in little bits and pieces.

The Garma Festival is an invitation

The Garma Festival is the epitome of how you can showcase the beauty of culture. For me personally, the most amazing part is that this sharing of culture is done with a genuine generosity of spirit. What you do with the gift is up to you.

The official opening of Garma commences with the arrival of the Gumatj clan. (Image: Elise Hassey)

If you choose to deep dive into it, that’s your journey. But I think a really important part of this is not to underestimate the gift at hand, because it’s such a long and profound journey through the whole thing. It’s so rich and it’s just so authentic. If you’re not prepared to go through the process of understanding it, you’re not going to understand what its value is, right? That’s up to you, but also don’t criticise it if you don’t understand it holistically.

A young festival-goerat Garma — A young festival-goer gets into the spirit at this leading Indigenous cultural event. (Image: Elise Hassey)

You don’t need to come to the Garma Festival to learn about culture. Engage with the local people, understand what the challenges are for them, because Indigenous people don’t have a level of self-entitlement like non-Indigenous people do so the mindset for an Indigenous person is very different. And you shouldn’t be terrified of it, you just have to understand the way people’s brains work.

Garma Festival inspires many, including the next generation of Yolngu. (Image: Elise Hassey)

The conversation we need to have

Racism is very real in Australia. I really check myself when I say that, but it is prevalent in Australia. Why can’t we have a conversation about why it ends up being about the colour of someone’s skin? I think that conversation has to happen, whether you’re better than that person next to you because of the pores of your skin. I think it’s a maturity conversation for our nation, to be honest. I mean, the Garma Festival has been having this conversation for quite some time. We’ve been talking about truth-telling and talking about Makarrata for many years now. And we see the traction.

Gumatj women dancing at Garma Festival. (Image: Elise Hassey)

I have seen people actively change their thinking; they call the festival life altering. I had a very nice elderly non-Indigenous man come up to me and say, ‘Denise, you do understand that I don’t deliberately try to be racist’. And I said, ‘Well, tell me what’s going on’. And he said, ‘Well, it’s in my DNA. I don’t know any different because that’s how I was taught. So I don’t know any different when you throw me into an unknown situation, I don’t know what the hell I’m doing. I’m completely out of my comfort zone’. He was wrestling with his own conscience, bless.

Don’t stay in your comfort zone

I think as a nation, we’re doing ourselves a disservice if we don’t seize the opportunity to educate ourselves. Unless you’re digging down into the detail you don’t actually realise what amazing qualities there are in Indigenous culture. There’s a beauty in each of our states’ Indigenous communities. They have a flair about them and different colours and different beauty and different structures and different ways of being, different ways of conversing. And, the lifestyle is very different from one to the next. Ideally you wouldn’t have to force people to understand this. You’d just think that they’d see it for themselves. But it’s easier to stay at arm’s length in your comfort zone.

Women decorating yidakis at Garma — Decorating yidakis at Garma. (Image: Elise Hassey)

I don’t want to be bogged down in negativity. I’m in a world of positivity in terms of what I see happening in my community. There’s a great deal of pride and ability for people to showcase what they’re capable of doing. And it’s not just art. It’s also social enterprises, educational elements, understanding how bush pharmacy happens out this way. So yeah, please get stuck in to knowledge everybody.

Garma incorporates visual art into the festival — Garma incorporates visual art as part of its multifaceted reach. (Image: Elise Hassey)

What is the Uluru Statement from the heart?

The Uluru Statement from the Heart was created during the First Nations National Constitutional Convention and released on 26 May 2017. The document represents a historic consensus of First Nations leaders in seeking constitutional change to recognise First Australians through a voice in parliament.

The debate over constitutional recognition has raged for years, but the Uluru Statement is the result of a collective agreement from the 250 Indigenous leaders who gathered together from across the country, and following engagement with more than 1200 Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander representatives over a six-month period.

With the guiding principles of voice, treaty and truth, the Statement invites all Australians to join Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander people in a movement for a better future, and calls for meaningful structural reforms to be made, including the establishment of a Voice to Parliament enshrined within the Constitution. While previous documents have petitioned Parliament, the Uluru Statement addresses all Australians.

The Voice to Parliament would give Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander people an opportunity to contribute to and influence the laws and policies that directly impact them, by establishing a permanent institution to provide advice to Parliament and Government.

The Statement and the agenda it represents calls for Makarrata, a concept belonging to the Yolngu people of north-east Arnhem Land that describes a coming together after a struggle in order to heal the divisions of the past. The Statement recommends the establishment of a Makarrata Commission to oversee the processes of agreement between the government and First Nations people.

As yet, the principles of the document, given in good faith and with high hopes, have not been enacted. You can read the Uluru Statement from the Heart and support its ideals at ulurustatement.org and fromtheheart.com.au

The Great Ocean Road has captured the hearts of Australians with its astounding scenery since 1932, but going off-course can enrich your experience with untouched nature, foodie delights and charming towns.

It’s a chilly 16 degrees. My husband pulls on a steamer and jogs – as all seasoned surfers do – into the water. We’re at Bells Beach , the legendary break on Victoria’s Surf Coast that’s home to the Rip Curl Pro, the world’s longest-running event in competitive surfing. Each year, over the Easter long weekend, up to 40,000 people descend on the region for the event. Today, though, we have the beach almost to ourselves, and the less-than-favourable temperature doesn’t deter my husband from surfing this famous break.

Torquay to Anglesea and Aireys Inlet

The red dome of Split Point Lighthouse in Aireys Inlet. (Image: Tourism Australia)

The nearby surf town of Torquay marks the starting point for the Great Ocean Road . Unfolding our map, which we have marked out with a highlighted route for our children to follow, we set off for lesser-known Anglesea, a chilled-out town 20 minutes south of here. Its wide, sandy beach is a gentler swimming option for our young family. Groms can learn to surf here with Go Ride a Wave, which also runs stand-up paddle boarding on the Anglesea River.

Split point lookout — The lighthouse overlooks the Shipwreck Coast. (Image: Tourism Australia)

After a couple of nights in Anglesea, we hit the road again, first stopping at Aireys Inlet. Here we stretch our legs at Split Point Lighthouse, which was made famous by the 1990s television series Round the Twist, before driving under the Memorial Arch that welcomes us, officially, to the Great Ocean Road.

This 243-kilometre coastal road was built by returned First World War servicemen and serves as a permanent memorial to those who fought and died during the war. Carved into rock using hand tools and horse-drawn carts, it was a huge engineering feat and provided much-needed access to isolated coastal communities.

Lorne to Birregurra

Lorne is a delightful beachside stop for lunch and browsing boutique stores. It’s also the gateway to Great Otway National Park , which comprises a varied landscape of old-growth forests, cool-temperate rainforests, heathy woodlands and rugged coast. With the highest rainfall in Victoria, the region is home to many waterfalls – 10 of which are within 10 kilometres of Lorne.

Turning slightly off the main drag, we wind along a gum-shaded road to Erskine Falls. Here, our son leads the way through the hyper-green rainforest and down 200-plus stairs to the cascade that drops 30 metres into a lush fern gully. We hop over large boulders to get closer to the falls, enjoying the entire place to ourselves; it’s worth the return climb.

From Sheoak Falls Picnic Area, there are walking trails to Henderson Falls, Phantom Falls, Won Wondah Falls and Kalimna Falls, some of which follow an old timber tramway from forest-logging days, which only came to an end in 2008.

You can follow your appetite north to the town of Birregurra, which is part of the Otway Harvest Trail that connects farm gates, markets, wineries, breweries and distilleries. It’s home to three-hatted modern Australian restaurant Brae , helmed by celebrated chef Dan Hunter, set among native gardens and an organic farm, and Otways Distillery, which produces small-batch spirits using local produce and botanicals.

Brae restaurant — Brae is a three-hatted restaurant in Birregurra. (Image: Tourism Australia)

Apollo Bay to The Otways

Back on track, the cliff-hugging stretch between Lorne and Apollo Bay is breathtaking. At Teddys Lookout, we overlook the winding road ahead and St George River spilling into the ocean. We spend languid days in Apollo Bay, a buzzy seaside town that boasts a three-kilometre-long, crescent-shaped beach with a backdrop of rolling green hills. One evening, as the sun sets, we take the steep 10-minute walk to Marriners Lookout, which affords panoramic views of the ocean, hinterland and town.

A 15-minute drive along the road, Maits Rest is a lush rainforest gully that has been protected since the early 20th century. Wandering along the 800-metre boardwalk, we inspect the delicate moss-covered forest floor and the gnarled roots of 300-year-old myrtle beech trees, then crane our necks to see their canopies, some 50 metres above us. It’s therapy in nature.

Cape Otway to the Twelve Apostles

The southernmost tip of Cape Otway is a delightful detour, home to the 1848-built Cape Otway Lightstation, the oldest surviving lighthouse on mainland Australia. We climb the narrow winding staircase to the gallery deck, explore the keepers’ quarters and telegraph station, and enjoy a coffee and some ‘famous’ scones at the charming onsite cafe.

It’s a pinch-me moment to finally see the Twelve Apostles in person. This unmistakable cluster of limestone stacks rising abruptly from the sea were never 12, however. When coined this in the 1890s as a marketing ploy, there were only nine; today, only seven remain after two collapsed in 2005 and 2009. We admire these Aussie icons from the viewing platform, in awe of Mother Nature’s ever-evolving artwork.

The Grotto is another natural attraction within Port Campbell National Park. (Image: Carmen Zammit)

Edging the wild Southern Ocean, this part of the coast – dubbed Shipwreck Coast – is made up of many sea-carved natural wonders including London Bridge, The Grotto and Gibson Steps. After exploring the lookout trails of Loch Ard Gorge/Poombeeyt Kontapool – its English name taken from the site of the 1878 shipwreck – we nestle into the sandy beach encircled by towering sandstone cliffs, as our children splash about on the water’s edge, and soak it all in.

Port Campbell to Timboon

Timboon Fine Ice Cream is part of a regional foodie trail. (Image: C McConville)

Just north of Port Campbell National Park, the region of Timboon is part of the 12 Apostles Food Artisans Trail, filled with purveyors of delicious foodstuffs such as Timboon Fine Ice Cream , Timboon Railway Shed Distillery and Apostle Whey Cheese. As an antidote to the indulgence, the 20-kilometre Poorpa Yanyeen Meerreeng Trail is a self-guided ride or walk between Port Campbell and Timboon through tall forests, over historic bridges and past sparkling lakes and farmland with grazing cattle.

Warrnambool to Port Fairy

Warrnambool building — A 19th-century building in Warrnambool. (Image: Peter Foster)

In Warrnambool, a town rich in maritime history, we take the four-kilometre Thunder Point Walk that traces the coast. The kids squeal when an echidna shuffles out from beneath the wooden boardwalk, and we stop to admire a seal lazing on a rock at the port.

Further along, the streets of quaint fishing village Port Fairy are lined with 19th-century cottages, old stone churches and Norfolk pines. Follow the historic walking trail to see some of the 60-plus National Trust buildings. Port Fairy is also home to Port Fairy Folk Festival (6-9 March), one of the country’s longest-running music and cultural festivals. You could time your road trip with the event for a fittingly celebratory end to any journey.

The Great Ocean Road can easily be done in three days, but we’ve spent a week on the road. The highlighted line on our now creased and well-worn map doesn’t follow the famous route precisely. It has sprouted branches in many directions, leading us to untouched rainforest and charming rural towns filled with culinary delights, and where we experienced some of our most memorable moments on the Great Ocean Road.

A traveller’s checklist

Staying there

The Monty is a highly anticipated, newly refurbished motel with a chic Palm Springs-inspired aesthetic set across the road from the Anglesea River. Basalt Winery in Port Fairy grows cool-climate wines such as pinot noir and Riesling in rich volcanic soil. Stay among the vines in its tiny home, complete with a kitchen, lounge area and outdoor firepit.

The Oak & Anchor Hotel has been a Port Fairy institution since 1857. Cosy up by the bar in winter or bask in the sunshine of the Lawn Bar in summer. The rooms are beautifully boutique with considered details, such as luxe baths for sinking into post-road trip.

Eating there

The Coast in Anglesea is a modern Australian restaurant focused on local ingredients. Grand Pacific Hotel has been a local landmark in Lorne since 1879 and recently underwent a restoration. It serves a mix of traditional pub and Italian fare alongside ocean views.

Graze is a cosy 40-seat dining room in Apollo Bay with a modern Australian menu complemented by regional wines. Apollo Bay Distillery offers tasting flights, a gin blending masterclass and serves woodfired pizzas.

A willingness to understand Indigenous culture is the first step towards celebrating it