The Arkaba Walk That "Rewilds Your Spirit"

Once farmland stripped bare, South Australia’s Arkaba is now a thriving outback wilderness where emus wander and wildflowers grow, and hiking through it can be similarly transformative for your soul.

A layer of ochre-coloured dust has already settled on my hiking boots. We have only been walking for what feels like an hour, following the beaten track that meanders into Wilpena Pound/Ikara in the shade of lofty river red gums. We leave behind two emus fossicking in the undergrowth and stop to watch a pair of Mallee ringneck parrots as they flit through the trees like splatters of technicolour paint.

We reach Hills Homestead, a stone house built in the early 1900s by European pastoralists, where we pause for cups of hot tea. I ask our guide, Bruce, how far we have just walked, curious to gauge how difficult the hike ahead of us is going to be. He doesn’t answer my question; instead, he gently offers this piece of advice.

“As humans, we are always trying to reach a goal, but getting to Arkaba was your goal," he says. “Now that you’re here, be present, look up, look around. Let me worry about the rest."

With that in mind, I don’t ask about distance or time again.

The Arkaba Homestead

the property exterior of Arkaba Homestead — Unwind in old-world comfort at Arkaba Homestead, pre- and post-walk. (Image: Randy Larcombe)

It’s the first morning of a multi-day hike through Ikara-Flinders Ranges as part of Wild Bush Luxury’s Arkaba Walk. A former sheep station turned conservancy, Arkaba is located south of Wilpena Pound/Ikara and comprises 24,000 hectares of private land that has been scrupulously rewilded.

We spent our first night in the property’s 1850s-built homestead, managed by local salt-of-the-earth couple John and Kathy O’Shea – who welcomed us like extended family – and feasted on a three-course dinner prepared by chef Calvin Von Niebel, who had spent time working for Yotam Ottolenghi in the UK.

Dining at Arkaba

dining at sunset in Arkaba — Share good food and wine at Black’s Gap Camp, with Wilpena Pound/Ikara as a majestic backdrop.

Our menu featured the likes of South Australian beef with miso butter carrots and rustic honey and quince cake with pistachio cream, which we enjoyed on the outdoor verandah, sipping local wine while the sky turned shades of mauve and clouds swirled like fairy-floss over the dramatic Elder Range in the distance.

The wild and remote Arkaba walk begins

a group of people trekking along Arkaba during an expertly guided walking holiday — Journey through the Arkaba wilderness. (Image: Richard Field)

We left the homestead this morning and bid farewell to the house staff – and mobile phone reception – with only our day packs, while the rest of our luggage is transported to the bush camp. Though we are trekking into wild and remote land, we are very comfortably equipped, with a gourmet lunch and ample water, a lightweight camp chair, a fly net and hiking poles – which our group hesitated to bring along initially, but will be thankful for later.

Our most essential accompaniment, though, is our guide Bruce Lawson, who moved here from South Africa two years ago with his Australian wife, Dee. To say Bruce is qualified to lead this hike is a gross understatement. Following a stint in Antarctica as part of his military service, he walked unsupported from Cape Town to Cairo and clocked up more than 20,000 hours over three decades leading wilderness trails through Big Five territory, among other remarkable ventures that often hinge on his passion for conservation.

Crossing Wilpena Pound/Ikara

an aerial view of two people on an Arkaba Walk — This outback walk takes you through a landscape painted with ochre and sage. (Image: Luke Tscharke)

After a short but steep climb up rocky terrain, we stand atop a rim of Wilpena Pound/Ikara. Before us, an unexpected carpet of native flora is cradled within a natural amphitheatre of jagged peaks. Wilpena Pound/Ikara is a remnant valley floor from an ancient mountain range that eroded away over millennia. At 17 kilometres long and eight kilometres wide, it is eight times the size of Uluru.

Wilpena Pound is known as Ikara to the local Adnyamathanha people and was a culturally and spiritually significant place long before Europeans arrived. Believed to have been formed by the bodies of two giant serpents, the storied history of Aboriginal occupation here is evident through ancient rock art dating back 38,000 years.

Bruce points to Bridle Gap, a teeny tiny opening in the Pound across from us. That’s where we will cross into Arkaba later today. I fight the urge to know how far it is in distance as we throw our packs on and move onward with our journey.

Solitude and silence at Bridle Gap

an aerial view of Arkaba Walk's snaking track, South Australia, Arkaba — The Arkaba Walk follows a snaking track over undulating landscapes.

Hours may have passed, filled with lessons on tracking kangaroo prints, lunch where we are spied on by curious emus and chatter between people who didn’t know each other yesterday but now take harmonic steps together through rugged and remote bushland.

At Bridle Gap, we sit atop a rocky outcrop and take a moment of silence to appreciate the painterly scene that unfurls before us. The undulating earth is covered in swathes of vegetation, while the rippled flanks of the Elder Range punctuate the horizon. We are accompanied only by the sound of the breeze blowing through the casuarinas, and a lizard, which pops its head out through a gap in the rocks below my feet before retreating. While we saw other hikers in Wilpena Pound/Ikara, we had this place to ourselves.

Get closer to nature at Black’s Gap Camp

an open-air bush shower at South Australia, Arkaba — Take an open-air bush shower, operated by a hoist and bucket. (Image: Luke Tscharke)

We reach Black’s Gap Camp as the sun begins its slow descent. I fill up a tin bucket with warm water and hoist it up in the shower, a simple open-air hut with no curtain. Just me and the colossal escarpment of Wilpena Pound/Ikara.

After a G&T and another moreish dinner served by Calvin, who works magic in the bush kitchen, we sit together in the dark of the night and look up. Bruce explains the different constellations to us, and we spot two shooting stars blazing a trail across the inky black sky. I’d like to have kept my eyes open to witness more while cosily zipped up in my swag, but I am quickly lulled to sleep by the sounds of nature.

A wildly changing landscape

a close-up photo of an Echidna, South Australia, Arkaba — Echidnas might be spotted in cooler months.

We set out the next morning, walking through dry riverbeds lined by towering gums and stopping for morning tea with a view of the Elder Range. A staggering 600 million years of geological history can be seen through the stratified multicoloured layers of its flanks. It’s impossible not to capture photos, but I intentionally pause to look around without a lens in front of my face.

We pass by a section of paddock fence that was erected during the 1850s, which is being removed to allow wildlife to roam freely. As Bruce writhes out a stump from its century-old posting, he likens the fence to our disconnection from nature. “This land is being rewilded, but this experience is a way to rewild your spirit, too."

His words echo through my head as we follow the rolling rhythm of the landscape, walking downhill and up to the meditative crunch of dry grass underfoot.

Finding respite at Madge’s Gully

kangaroos in the former sheep station at South Australia, Arkaba — This former sheep station is now teeming with red kangaroos, western grey kangaroos, common wallaroos and emus. (Image: Tracey Leigh Images/ Experience Co)

A pair of western grey kangaroos pause as we approach, then bound away under the beating midday sun. We find respite in the shade of Madge’s Gully, where I pull the fly net over my head to keep the perennial pests at bay. Here Bruce shows us how to dig a waterhole, which eventually fills up with water clear enough for us to scoop out with our camping mugs and drink; it’s earthy but potable.

The arid landscape turns green again as we follow Bruce through a valley of native pines to begin our ascent up the Red Range. And it is here that we are thankful we didn’t ditch the hiking poles, as we scramble up a sheer and narrow ridge with loose rocks underfoot. At the top, we look across to where we started the day – now a tiny speck in the distance – and feel elation to know respite is nearby.

Walking downhill towards tonight’s camp, located at the foothills of the Elder Range, I spot a barren landscape in the distance. It’s farmland, Bruce tells us. You can see the Arkaba boundary easily: where the thriving wilderness abruptly ends. We feel a deep appreciation for nature’s resilience as we walk through an abundance of native grass trees; it’s hard to fathom that this land was once the same.

Rising with the sun over the Elder Range

an emu walking along purple wildflowers, South Australia, Arkaba — An emu pads through purple wildflowers. (Image: Wild Bush Luxury)

It’s not often I wake willingly before the sun rises. However, on this morning, I lie in my swag and sip a cup of tea as the Elder Range turns a fiery red with the touch of sunlight. A formidable show put on by Mother Nature; it is one of those palpable moments that will be hard to forget.

Before we return to the homestead today, Bruce draws a metaphorical line in the sand to signify how humans step in and out of the wilderness. “Wilderness is something that’s more within than without," he says. “You come out of something like this with the same body, different soul."

The transforming power of going off-grid

a woman admiring the views of Elder Range, South Australia, Arkaba — Fall asleep under the stars in a cosy swag with views of Elder Range. (Image: Tracey Leigh Images/Experience Co)

Later that day, the pinging from my phone signals reality. And before long, I am back in the hustle of everyday life. That vast Arkaba landscape is firmly in the memory bank along with one small but significant takeaway: be present, look up, look around.

On a map, I can trace my finger roughly over the route we took. I’m still not exactly sure how far I walked, but I can see how far I have come. That evening I roll out a rug on the grass in our backyard and lie down – my six-year-old on one side, my two-year-old on the other – and we look up, patiently waiting for a shooting star.

Conscious traveller: The rewilding of Arkaba

Arkaba was formerly a working sheep station. When Wild Bush Luxury purchased the land in 2009, 150 years of livestock grazing had left it barren, devoid of wildlife and native plants. Wild Bush Luxury has rewilded the property, removing 22 kilometres of fencing and putting in measures to control pests and weeds.

Slowly, the grasses came back, and so too did the wildlife, from roos to lizards to birdlife. At least two per cent of your rate goes back into conservation efforts, including survey work and wildlife monitoring. Guests can contribute to the conservation activities at Arkaba by joining a guide on a special interest tour.

Video credit: Tourism Australia

From coast to mountains, hiking in Gippsland offers a stunning array of landscapes, with trails that take you deep into the region’s heritage.

I step out onto the sand and it cries out underfoot. Kweek! I take another step and there’s another little yelp. Screet! Picking up the pace, the sounds follow me like my shadow, all the way down to the water. It’s obvious how this spot got its name – Squeaky Beach – from the rounded grains of quartz that make the distinctive sounds under pressure.

For many, Wilsons Promontory National Park is the gateway to Gippsland , and the best way to explore it is by walking its network of hiking trails, from coastal gems such as Squeaky Beach through to the bushland, among the wildlife. But it’s still just a taste of what you’ll find on foot in the region.

Venture a bit further into Gippsland and you’ll discover the lakes, the rainforest, and the alpine peaks, each changing with the season and offering summer strolls or winter walks. Just like that squeaky sand, each step along these trails has something to tell you: perhaps a story about an ancient spirit or a pioneering search for fortune.

The best coastal hikes in Gippsland

sunset at Wilsons Promontory National Park — Wilsons Promontory National Park is a sprawling wilderness with many coastal bushland trails. (Image: Mark Watson)

Wilsons Promontory National Park (or ‘The Prom’, as you’ll end up calling it) is an easy three-hour drive from Melbourne, but you might ditch the car when you arrive, with much of the park’s 50,000 hectares accessible only by foot. From the inky water of Tidal River (dyed dark purple by abundant tea trees), I like the easy walks along the coast, among lichen-laden granite boulders, to golden beaches and bays.

a couple on Mount Oberon — Panoramic views from the summit of Mount Oberon. (Image: Everyday Nicky)

The trail to the panoramic views at the summit of Mount Oberon is a bit harder, up steep timber and granite steps, but it’s a popular 6.8-kilometre return. The more remote hikes are found through the open banksia and stringybark woodland of the park’s north, or along the multi-day Southern Circuit , which ranges from about 35 to 52 kilometres, with sunrises and sunsets, kangaroos and cockatoos, and maybe even whales.

a golden sand beach at Wilsons Promontory National Park — Walk ‘The Prom’s’ golden sand beaches. (Image: Tourism Australia/Time Out Australia)

You might also see whales on the George Bass Coastal Walk , even closer to Melbourne on the western edge of Gippsland. This dramatic seven-kilometre trail along the clifftops takes in sweeping views of the wild ocean, occasionally dipping down from grassy green hills to coastal gullies and a secluded beach. It also now links into the Bass Coast Rail Trail for an extra 14 kilometres.

Over at the eastern edge of Gippsland, in Croajingolong National Park, you can wander along the lakeshores beneath koalas and around goannas (I keep my distance since one chased me here!). For those who are even more adventurous, the park is also the starting point for the 100-kilometre Wilderness Coast Walk , usually done over seven days.

the Croajingolong National Park, Gippsland — Wander along the lakeshores in Croajingolong National Park. (Image: Tourism Australia)

The best bush hikes in Gippsland

the Baw Baw National Park — The alpine heath of Baw Baw National Park. (Image: Everyday Nicky)

Deep in the Long Tunnel Extended Gold Mine at Walhalla, mining guide Richard tells me how this small town in the mountains east of Melbourne boomed when prospectors found gold here in 1862. These days, you’ll find most of the town’s treasure – its heritage – above ground, with the Walhalla Tramline Walk a wonderful way to explore it.

Just seven kilometres long, the walk takes you through decades of Gold Rush history, following the original rail trail from lush bushland to the mining sites, and through the charming village of just 20 residents with its wooden cottages and old shopfronts adorned with turn-of-the-century advertising posters. Blazing a trail where trailblazers once opened up the region, this is also the starting point for the 650-kilometre Australian Alps Walking Track.

Nearby, Baw Baw National Park has walks through gnarled snow gums and alpine heaths that show off the colourful wildflowers in summer and the pristine carpet of white in winter. Several trails are perfect for snowshoes, including a 45-minute route from St Gwinear up to vast views across the Latrobe Valley.

Further up into the mountains, the Toorongo and Amphitheatre Falls Loop Walk is an easy 2.2-kilometre path that serenades you with the sound of flowing water as you pass mossy rocks and tree ferns en route to two sets of waterfalls cascading over boulders in the remote wilderness.

The best cultural hikes in Gippsland

the Mitchell River National Park, Gippsland — Hike the Mitchell River National Park. (Image: Parks Victoria/Grace Lewis)

Across a pool in a natural sandstone amphitheatre, deep within a cave behind a waterfall, it’s said the Nargun has its lair. A fierce creature, half human and half stone, that abducts children and can’t be harmed by boomerangs or spears, the story of the Nargun has been told around the campfires of the local Gunaikurnai people for generations.

As a culturally significant place for women, hikers are asked not to go into the Den of Nargun, but a 3.4-kilometre loop walk leads you through a rainforest gully to the entrance where you can feel the powerful atmosphere here in Mitchell River National Park , along Victoria’s largest remaining wild and free-flowing waterway.

the bee-eaters at Mitchell River National Park — Bee-eaters at Mitchell River National Park. (Image: Parks Victoria/Grace Lewis)

The Den of Nargun is part of the Bataluk Cultural Trail , a series of important traditional Gunaikurnai sites through central Gippsland. Another location is Victoria’s largest cave system, Buchan Caves Reserve, with trails to important archaeological sites of human artefacts up to 18,000 years old. The FJ Wilson Interpreted Walk includes the naturally sculpted white limestone steps of the 400-metre-long Federal Cave, while the Granite Pools Walk goes among tall timber and moss-covered gullies.

the ancient rainforest of Tarra-Bulga National Park — The ancient rainforest of Tarra-Bulga National Park. (Image: Josie Withers)

Also important to the Gunaikurnai people is Tarra-Bulga National Park , known for its ancient myrtle beeches and enormous mountain ash trees. Just 40 minutes return, the Tarra Valley Rainforest Walk offers a taste of this verdant landscape, while the Grand Strzelecki Track takes you deep into the lost world of forest giants on an epic 100-kilometre trail rich with tradition.

A traveller’s checklist

Staying there

the WildernessRetreats in The Prom — Wilderness Retreats in The Prom. (Image: Christian Pearson)

Wilderness Retreats in Wilsons Promontory offers glamping-style tents with luxurious queen beds. Star Hotel is a reconstruction of a Gold Rush-era hotel from 1863 in the heart of heritage Walhalla. Caves House is a historic three-bedroom house with views over the Buchan River.

Eating there

the Carrajung Estate, Gippsland — Enjoy a post-hike lunch at Carrajung Estate. (Image: Everyday Nicky)

Kilcunda General Store serves great coffee and meals of local produce at the George Bass Coastal Walk. Alpine Trout Farm is located near Toorongo Falls in Noojee. Fish for your own lunch and barbecue it with the provided cookware.

Carrajung Estate is a short drive from Tarra-Bulga National Park. The winery’s restaurant offers a seasonal menu of regional ingredients and you can stay at The Lodge.

a seafood feast at Carrajung Estate, Gippsland — The table is set for a seafood feast at the estate.