Food, towns and luxe stays: Here’s how travel has changed since 2005

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Let’s take a look back – and forward – to see how travelling Australia has evolved over nearly two decades of exploring our nation.

To mark 100 editions of Australian Traveller, co-founder Quentin Long sat down with Tourism Australia managing director Phillipa Harrison to discuss what has (and has not) changed in travel in Australia from the year the magazine launched in 2005 to today and beyond.

Australian Travellerco-founder Quentin Long and Tourism Australia managing director Phillipa Harrison
Australian Traveller co-founder Quentin Long and Tourism Australia managing director Phillipa Harrison. (Image: Nicky Ryan)

Quentin Long: So, in 2005 I was panicking about launching a new domestic travel media brand. What were you doing?

Phillipa Harrison: I was working for an Accor start-up in the youth hostel space called Base Backpackers. It was capitalising and corporatising the concept of ‘flashpackers’. That was so fun. I was the third employee onboard and we set up 11 hostels in 18 months. And backpacker bars, and a travel agency…

QL: So Jägerbombs at the bar with Pip?

PH: Maybe [laughs].

QL: Do you think Covid has given domestic travellers a greater appreciation for this country? I always hoped it would create a new habit for Aussies. So, for example, instead of going overseas every year, you go every two years.

PH: I do think Australians worked out over Covid that our own backyard is pretty damn special, so I would agree with you. Interestingly though, what appealed to people about Australia 50 years ago and what’s going to appeal to people about Australia in 50 years are similar things… our great natural landscapes… our great food and wine. Actually, 50 years ago, maybe not [laughs]. There’s another big change – food. I remember meeting a German woman who came to Australia in the 1970s and said she could not believe how limited this country was from a food point of view.

the food at Zin House in Mudgee
The Zin House in Mudgee is emblematic of regional Australia’s dynamic dining scene. (Image: Destination NSW)

QL: [Laughs] I believe you got a hardship allowance if you were a French diplomat posted to Canberra in the 1950s and ’60s. How French. “You have to endure meat and potatoes every meal. Sacre bleu."

PH: Fast-forward to today and we have multicultural cuisine, but we also have this incredible produce and the people who produce it telling stories about the provenance. Our research tells us that travellers are blown away by our food.

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QL: Totally. By the way, I reckon it’s hard to have a bad meal in Canberra today. Part of the food story is where it comes from and, for me, regional Australia is the biggest improver since 2005.

PH: You think about going to somewhere like Orange in 2005 versus going there now and you have gourmet meals, great experiences, beautiful boutique accommodation. It really is chalk and cheese and it’s so good to see the regions prospering like that.

QL: Orange is an easy one. And Mudgee’s another easy one.

PH: The whole of regional Victoria is an eater’s paradise. Beechworth, Metung, Daylesford. The Scenic Rim’s done particularly well. Perth is outstanding. The Peak Trail in the Grampians. That is a beautiful collaboration between councils where they linked up a whole trail of 160 kilometres.

The wine regions have always been our successful regions: think Barossa, Margaret River, the Yarra Valley and Hunter. They’re evolving as well with more experiences around the cellar door that were never there before through things like the Ultimate Winery Experiences Australia and, in particular, its ‘Icons’ series.

wine tasting at sunset in Hope Estate
Hope Estate is one of many world-class wineries in the Hunter Valley. (Image: Destination NSW)

QL: The growth in number and quality in luxury product in Australia is remarkable.

PH: Australia only had a few luxury properties in 2005; Lizard Island Resort, Longitude 131° and El Questro. That was about it. Eleven of the 18 luxury lodges have opened since 2005. So, qualia opened, Southern Ocean Lodge, Saffire Freycinet, Wolgan Valley… So, we now have an incredible range of luxury accommodation and experiences.

QL: We did a project with Tourism Australia in 2007 called the 20 Best Indigenous Tours of Australia in a 32-page magazine. We printed it and supplied the content translated in German. But it was never released in Australia. When I tried to have it distributed with Australian Traveller, there was no budget because: “The research shows that the Australian market is not interested in experiencing Indigenous culture." Today that would definitely not be the case.

PH: Totally. That’s a huge change from 2005. I think the Indigenous tourism offering that we have is much more extensive and immersive. It is run by Indigenous people themselves. It gives them an opportunity to live on Country and keep their culture going.

burning incense during an indigenous tour in Australia, Dreamtime Southern X, Sydney
There are now many wonderful Indigenous tour operators, such as Dreamtime Southern X, Sydney, which explore the way First Nations people experience Country. (Image: Destination NSW)

QL: What do you think Indigenous tourism looks like in 20 years?

PH: I hope that as soon as you travel or arrive in Australia, you know that you are on Aboriginal Country. That experience starts at our airports and infiltrates every tourism experience in some way, shape or form for your whole trip.

an aerial view of the Maria Island, Tasmania
Feel the call of the wild on Maria Island, Tasmania, one of the Great Walks of Australia.

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QL: What would you love every Australian to do?

PH: One of the multi-day walks.

QL: Really?

PH: Yeah. I love, love, love them. They slow you down, you’re not zooming past this landscape, you’re immersed in it and you’re just walking really slowly through it. I actually think they’re largely undiscovered, the Great Walks.

the Larapinta Trail, a great walk in Australia
Trek the Larapinta Trail, another Great Walk, in comfort with Australian Walking Holidays. (Image: Peter Walton)

QL: This leads me to something else. One of the great regrets of my life is I didn’t do the Larapinta Trail before my MS got to the stage where I can’t. So, accessible tourism, I think we’ve come a long way. I heard Paralympic Games champion Dylan Alcott speak at the annual Tourism Australia Destination Australia conference this year and it really highlighted the issue for me. He described how he went to Noosa and saw they had beach mats for his wheelchair, and that was the second time he went to the beach in his life. As an Australian, you go, “Um, whaaaat??? An Australian who has only been to the beach twice…" Final question. If you could click your fingers and change one thing in Australia’s travel landscape, what would it be?

PH: That’s a really good question [laughs]. What would you change?

QL: Uh, honestly… I would change our service culture.

PH: See, I don’t think this is too bad.

QL: It’s not terrible, just inconsistent.

PH: Yeah, OK. Something related to that. I want more people to see tourism as a career, like it is in other countries. I have spent my entire career in tourism and I would love for more Australians to do the same, because it is a great industry to be a part of.

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8 unexpected experiences to have during a weekend in Moreton Bay

Credit: Tourism and Events Moreton Bay

    Rachel Lay Rachel Lay
    Halfway between Brisbane and the Sunshine Coast, the coastline is hiding a holiday gem. Meet Moreton Bay: a region brimming with unexpected experiences. 

    Weekends are a finite resource. Each year, we must decide how to extract the most value from just 52 of them – and Moreton Bay may just be the perfect way to do it. 

    But don’t be fooled by the region’s easy accessibility. It’s somehow remained an unspoken secret among locals and travellers alike. 

    It has the fresh seafood and the island-dotted bay, but did you know about the wizarding store, the disco royalty, or the vintage train-carriage-stay tucked into a national park? 

    The best part? You can explore them all without touching your annual leave balance. 

    1. Oyster Shed at Sandstone Point 

    Oyster Shed at Sandstone Point 
    Be sure to stop for oysters. (Credit: Tourism and Events Moreton Bay)

    You could make the argument that the Oyster Shed at Sandstone Point is reason enough to spend a weekend in Moreton Bay. 

    What was once a humble, wooden oyster farming shack in the 1900s is now a seaside paradise: day beds bathed in Queensland sunshine, a jetty that pierces the sea, and a seafood menu based on their exclusive fishing partner’s daily catches. 

    Your first stop in Moreton Bay must be to try the area’s beloved Moreton Bay Bugs. Here, they’re served fresh in the sea breeze. Order the Crustacean Plate that’s prepared fresh each day. Or, try their signature baked fish tacos. 

    2. Ocean View Estates 

    Ocean View Estates 
    Stop in for wine and grazing plates. (Credit: Tourism and Events Moreton Bay)

    Tucked away in the hills of Moreton Bay, you’ll find Ocean View Estates, poured across 100 acres of sloping vineyards. Arrive via winding or scenic mountain roads. 

    Join the Wine & Dine in the Vines experience to be greeted with a glass of wine upon arrival before taking the time to stroll (wine in hand) through the grapevines. Spot the adorable herd of Highland cows before joining a behind-the-scenes tour of the vineyard’s operations. Sip wine straight from the vat before starting your four-course, wine-paired degustation. 

    If you can’t bear to leave, spend the night in one of the property’s quaint wine-themed cottages. 

    3. Green Thumb Farm

    green thumb farm moreton bay
    Learn about (and taste) sustainable food growing practices at Green Thumb.

    Green Thumb Farm calls Samford Valley home. This not-for-profit, educational community farm’s goal is to share sustainable food growing practices with the community. 

    Each Tuesday, Wednesday, Friday, and Saturday morning, you can follow the ‘farm walk’ signs through the property on a self-guided walk to witness how growing food with regenerative farming principles can support pollinators and soil to help create a more resilient food cycle. 

    To sample the produce, stop by on a Saturday morning to explore the spray-free fruit and vegetable markets. 

    4. Redcliffe KiteFest

    Redcliffe annual KiteFest
    Watch the sky change colours during KiteFest.

    Plan your visit to Moreton Bay for the weekend of the 19th and 20th of September this year and you’ll be greeted with an explosion of colour, creativity and family fun. Why? Because the Redcliffe annual KiteFest is back in town. 

    Browse the local food trucks as giant kites soar overhead, fly your own kite, let the kids try their hand at kite making with a series of workshops, and so much more. 

    For a colourful, family-friendly weekend close to Brisbane, you’ll be hard-pressed to find something better in your calendar. 

    5. Mt Nebo Railway Carriage and Chalet

    Mt Nebo Railway Carriage and Chalet
    Stay in one of the region’s most unique accommodations. (Credit: Tourism and Events Moreton Bay)

    Under the shaded canopy of the Boombana section of D’Aguilar National Park, you’ll find a lovingly restored 1920s Queensland Rail carriage and chalet. 

    The rail carriage comes complete with Wi-Fi, a smart TV, and even a barbecue. Take your morning coffee in the buffet car’s booth seating while you browse the record selection from the train’s original luggage racks. 

    Here, among six acres of picturesque mountain rainforest, you’ll find quaint gardens, tranquil views and close access to walking trails. 

    6. Hip Hops Brewers

    Hip Hop Brewers
    Try tasty craft beer flavours at Hip Hop Brewers.

    Brendale’s Hip Hops Brewers has one of the region’s most exciting craft beer offerings. Their local taproom is home to 21 different, meticulously crafted beer offerings and their mammoth selection of local wines and spirits. Hip Hops Brewers works in collaboration with local artisans and charities to deliver on their offering of drinks and events.  

    Spend an afternoon working your way through the selection at their ridiculously welcoming taproom and brewery. 

    7. The Store of Requirement

    The Store of Requirement
    Step inside for a touch of magic. (Credit: Tourism and Events Moreton Bay)

    For Harry Potter fans, The Store of Requirement is a compulsory visit. Much like the story’s Room of Requirement, the shop exists to provide whatever it is you need at the moment. Yes, that does include their own butterscotch brew. You’ll find wands, Hogwarts uniforms, and all the ingredients you’ll need for potions class. 

    You’ll even find the powder blue car Ron and Harry crash-landed at Hogwarts parked right out front. 

    8. Bee Gees Way

    bee gees way mural
    Find the groove on Bee Gees Way. (Credit: Tourism and Events Moreton Bay)

    Did you know that the Bee Gees brothers Barry, Robin and Maurice grew up in Moreton Bay? The disco supergroup called Redcliffe’s shores home before settling in at the top of the charts with hits like ‘Stayin’ Alive’. 

    Now, the spirit of disco is absolutely alive in Redcliffe thanks to Bee Gees Way. 

    The 70-metre outdoor museum pays homage to the band and was developed in collaboration with the band’s Barry Gibb. The experience is completely free and meanders along the Redcliffe foreshore. Walk down memory lane with photos, album covers, personal stories from the band, and exclusive interviews with Barry all about Moreton Bay. 

    Once the sun has set, catch the free light show set to the band’s greatest hits. 

    Trade the everyday for Moreton Bay, plan your weekend getaway now at visitmoretonbay.com.au.