Food, towns and luxe stays: Here’s how travel has changed since 2005

Editor Editor
hero media
Let’s take a look back – and forward – to see how travelling Australia has evolved over nearly two decades of exploring our nation.

To mark 100 editions of Australian Traveller, co-founder Quentin Long sat down with Tourism Australia managing director Phillipa Harrison to discuss what has (and has not) changed in travel in Australia from the year the magazine launched in 2005 to today and beyond.

Australian Travellerco-founder Quentin Long and Tourism Australia managing director Phillipa Harrison
Australian Traveller co-founder Quentin Long and Tourism Australia managing director Phillipa Harrison. (Image: Nicky Ryan)

Quentin Long: So, in 2005 I was panicking about launching a new domestic travel media brand. What were you doing?

Phillipa Harrison: I was working for an Accor start-up in the youth hostel space called Base Backpackers. It was capitalising and corporatising the concept of ‘flashpackers’. That was so fun. I was the third employee onboard and we set up 11 hostels in 18 months. And backpacker bars, and a travel agency…

QL: So Jägerbombs at the bar with Pip?

PH: Maybe [laughs].

QL: Do you think Covid has given domestic travellers a greater appreciation for this country? I always hoped it would create a new habit for Aussies. So, for example, instead of going overseas every year, you go every two years.

PH: I do think Australians worked out over Covid that our own backyard is pretty damn special, so I would agree with you. Interestingly though, what appealed to people about Australia 50 years ago and what’s going to appeal to people about Australia in 50 years are similar things… our great natural landscapes… our great food and wine. Actually, 50 years ago, maybe not [laughs]. There’s another big change – food. I remember meeting a German woman who came to Australia in the 1970s and said she could not believe how limited this country was from a food point of view.

the food at Zin House in Mudgee
The Zin House in Mudgee is emblematic of regional Australia’s dynamic dining scene. (Image: Destination NSW)

QL: [Laughs] I believe you got a hardship allowance if you were a French diplomat posted to Canberra in the 1950s and ’60s. How French. “You have to endure meat and potatoes every meal. Sacre bleu."

PH: Fast-forward to today and we have multicultural cuisine, but we also have this incredible produce and the people who produce it telling stories about the provenance. Our research tells us that travellers are blown away by our food.

Need tips, more detail or itinerary ideas tailored to you? Ask AT.

AI Prompt

QL: Totally. By the way, I reckon it’s hard to have a bad meal in Canberra today. Part of the food story is where it comes from and, for me, regional Australia is the biggest improver since 2005.

PH: You think about going to somewhere like Orange in 2005 versus going there now and you have gourmet meals, great experiences, beautiful boutique accommodation. It really is chalk and cheese and it’s so good to see the regions prospering like that.

QL: Orange is an easy one. And Mudgee’s another easy one.

PH: The whole of regional Victoria is an eater’s paradise. Beechworth, Metung, Daylesford. The Scenic Rim’s done particularly well. Perth is outstanding. The Peak Trail in the Grampians. That is a beautiful collaboration between councils where they linked up a whole trail of 160 kilometres.

The wine regions have always been our successful regions: think Barossa, Margaret River, the Yarra Valley and Hunter. They’re evolving as well with more experiences around the cellar door that were never there before through things like the Ultimate Winery Experiences Australia and, in particular, its ‘Icons’ series.

wine tasting at sunset in Hope Estate
Hope Estate is one of many world-class wineries in the Hunter Valley. (Image: Destination NSW)

QL: The growth in number and quality in luxury product in Australia is remarkable.

PH: Australia only had a few luxury properties in 2005; Lizard Island Resort, Longitude 131° and El Questro. That was about it. Eleven of the 18 luxury lodges have opened since 2005. So, qualia opened, Southern Ocean Lodge, Saffire Freycinet, Wolgan Valley… So, we now have an incredible range of luxury accommodation and experiences.

QL: We did a project with Tourism Australia in 2007 called the 20 Best Indigenous Tours of Australia in a 32-page magazine. We printed it and supplied the content translated in German. But it was never released in Australia. When I tried to have it distributed with Australian Traveller, there was no budget because: “The research shows that the Australian market is not interested in experiencing Indigenous culture." Today that would definitely not be the case.

PH: Totally. That’s a huge change from 2005. I think the Indigenous tourism offering that we have is much more extensive and immersive. It is run by Indigenous people themselves. It gives them an opportunity to live on Country and keep their culture going.

burning incense during an indigenous tour in Australia, Dreamtime Southern X, Sydney
There are now many wonderful Indigenous tour operators, such as Dreamtime Southern X, Sydney, which explore the way First Nations people experience Country. (Image: Destination NSW)

QL: What do you think Indigenous tourism looks like in 20 years?

PH: I hope that as soon as you travel or arrive in Australia, you know that you are on Aboriginal Country. That experience starts at our airports and infiltrates every tourism experience in some way, shape or form for your whole trip.

an aerial view of the Maria Island, Tasmania
Feel the call of the wild on Maria Island, Tasmania, one of the Great Walks of Australia.

Weekly travel news, experiences
insider tips, offers, and more.

QL: What would you love every Australian to do?

PH: One of the multi-day walks.

QL: Really?

PH: Yeah. I love, love, love them. They slow you down, you’re not zooming past this landscape, you’re immersed in it and you’re just walking really slowly through it. I actually think they’re largely undiscovered, the Great Walks.

the Larapinta Trail, a great walk in Australia
Trek the Larapinta Trail, another Great Walk, in comfort with Australian Walking Holidays. (Image: Peter Walton)

QL: This leads me to something else. One of the great regrets of my life is I didn’t do the Larapinta Trail before my MS got to the stage where I can’t. So, accessible tourism, I think we’ve come a long way. I heard Paralympic Games champion Dylan Alcott speak at the annual Tourism Australia Destination Australia conference this year and it really highlighted the issue for me. He described how he went to Noosa and saw they had beach mats for his wheelchair, and that was the second time he went to the beach in his life. As an Australian, you go, “Um, whaaaat??? An Australian who has only been to the beach twice…" Final question. If you could click your fingers and change one thing in Australia’s travel landscape, what would it be?

PH: That’s a really good question [laughs]. What would you change?

QL: Uh, honestly… I would change our service culture.

PH: See, I don’t think this is too bad.

QL: It’s not terrible, just inconsistent.

PH: Yeah, OK. Something related to that. I want more people to see tourism as a career, like it is in other countries. I have spent my entire career in tourism and I would love for more Australians to do the same, because it is a great industry to be a part of.

Want to see more stories from Australian Traveller in your Google search results?

  1. Click here to set Australian Traveller as a preferred source.
  2. Tick the box next to "Australian Traveller". That's it.
Editor

Editor

View profile and articles
Qantas aircraft wing during flight
Australia

Qantas just put 2 million seats on sale – here’s where the value is

Your time to fly business has come.

Read more
anthem of the seas in sydney harbour
Australia

Royal Caribbean announces 3 ships for Australia’s 2027 summer

It's time to start planning your 2027/2028 summer adventure.

Read more
Perseids meteor shower
Australia

The lucky few cities that’ll catch the Perseid meteor shower this week

Get ready – the Perseid meteor shower is just around the corner.

Read more
jetstar carry-on luggage fees
Australia

Jetstar to charge for overhead carry-on baggage, a move that’s illegal overseas

In a controversial overhaul of its carry-on policies, Jetstar will charge fees from $25 for carry-on luggage stored in the overhead lockers from 2027.

Read more
hero media

8 reasons locals will tell you the Mornington Peninsula is incredible in winter

    Gemma Kaczerepa Gemma Kaczerepa
    Continue
    The Mornington Peninsula might be synonymous with summer, but winter offers equally compelling reasons to visit.

    Come winter, the Mornington Peninsula transforms into a relaxing and rejuvenating escape. Think misty trails and dramatic ocean views along the rugged coastline, drinking and dining by crackling firesides, fewer crowds and a more small-town feel – the perfect ingredients for a slow and restorative weekend.

    If you want a truly local winter experience, here’s where you need to go.

    1. Sample spirits at local distilleries

    JimmyRum distillery on the mornington peninsula
    Sample small-batch rums and cane spirits at JimmyRum. (Image: Visit Victoria)

    No matter your tipple, you’re bound to find a Peninsula distillery to suit. Chief’s Son is beloved by locals and visitors alike for its award-winning range of single malt whiskies. Make sure to try the Black Forge – a heady combination of whisky and coffee.

    JimmyRum is the Mornington Peninsula’s first and only craft rum distillery. Enjoy a tasting to sample small-batch rums and cane spirits, or book a table to feast on generous share plates and creative cocktails.

    Bass & Flinders is another must-visit, and something of a local icon. It was the Peninsula’s first distillery and remains a favourite for craft gins, brandies and fruity liqueurs. Pick up a bottle (or two) to take home and toast your winter getaway.

    2. Warm up in the hot springs

    man in pool at Alba Thermal Springs & Spa
    Dive into Alba Thermal Springs & Spa.

    Locals know winter is the best time to visit the famous hot springs. With the air cool and crisp and the springs reaching temperatures up to 43 degrees, the experience is akin to a warm embrace.

    If you’re travelling with kids or want something more laid-back, Peninsula Hot Springs is your best bet. Spanning 42 acres and with an organic vibe, the complex has hillside pools, saunas, bath houses and family-friendly spaces perfect for all ages.

    Alba Thermal Springs & Spa is slightly more luxe, with 25 thermal pools amid architectural surrounds. The on-site restaurant, Thyme, is a highlight, featuring seasonal lunch dishes, high teas and picnics, and a beautifully designed interior.

    3. Coastal walks feel more dramatic

    Millionaire's Walk in sorrento
    Take in gorgeous seaside scenery on Millionaire’s Walk. (Image: Visit Victoria)

    The Peninsula is situated between Port Phillip Bay and the wide expanse of the Southern Ocean, giving it front-row access to stunning sea vistas. In winter, and especially on rainy days, the outlook is incredibly dramatic, with waves crashing against the clifftops and a steely hue. The trails hugging the ocean are also much quieter and mostly filled with locals.

    Make sure to drop by Cape Schanck Lighthouse on your coastal walk – the lighthouse was built in 1859, making it one of Victoria’s oldest. Climb the stone stairs all the way to the top and take in panoramic, windswept views.

    Millionaire’s Walk in Sorrento is another local favourite. This easy 1.5-kilometre coastal trail takes you past gorgeous seaside scenery and some of the grand homes the town is famous for.

    4. Sip on world-class pinot noir

    green olive winery at red hill on the mornington peninsula
    Stop by Red Hill’s cellar doors, like Green Olive. (Image: Visit Victoria)

    If you’re a fan of the light-bodied and elegant red, your winter escape should include a stop at one of the Peninsula’s many cellar doors.

    The hinterlands around the township of Red Hill are particularly renowned for pinot noir (and chardonnay) thanks to their cool maritime climate and red clay soils. There are more than 50 boutique cellar doors to choose from, where you can sample a selection or do as the locals do: take a bottle back to your accommodation to savour by the fireside.

    5. See misty rolling hills from above

    Arthurs Seat Eagle on mornington peninsula
    Get a bird’s-eye view on Arthurs Seat Eagle. (Image: Visit Victoria)

    Peninsula winters bring with them a thick mist and fog, which make for atmospheric and dreamlike scenery. Shroud yourself in the clouds with a gondola ride at Arthurs Seat Eagle. The summit is 305 metres high, giving you a genuine bird’s-eye view of the entire Peninsula region and Port Phillip Bay in their moody and misty glory.

    6. Dine beside a roaring fire

    table full of dishes at Rare Hare Wine & Food Store
    Enjoy food and wine beside a roaring fireplace at Rare Hare Wine & Food Store. (Image: Visit Victoria)

    The Peninsula is an essential part of Melbourne’s “food bowl”, with 70 per cent of the region a designated Green Wedge zone. It’s little surprise, then, that there are so many opportunities to try its fresh produce. Visit farm gates like Torello Farm, Hawkes Farm and Tully’s Corner to sample the region’s winter harvest: apples, root vegetables, mushrooms and truffles.

    Nothing beats a fireside feast in winter, and several local dining venues offer exactly that. Lancemore Lindenderry Red Hill is a two-hatted restaurant with a roaring fire, Crittenden Estate does seasonal dishes and estate wines amid a cosy indoor space, and Rare Hare Wine & Food Store has a double-sided fireplace that anchors the warm and welcoming dining room.

    If the sun is out, enjoy a picnic amid the sprawling grounds of Montalto Winery. You’ll kick off with a tasting before heading outdoors to a covered picnic table, where you’ll feast on starters, mains, desserts and more wine.

    7. Go whale watching at Cape Schanck

    whales in victoria australia
    Look for whales between May and October. (Image: Visit Victoria)

    Beyond the spectacular lighthouse views, Cape Schanck is also an excellent place to watch whales migrating through the Bass Strait. Between May and October each year, particularly during June and July, Southern Right and Humpback whales make their way past the area, and can sometimes be spotted just 150 metres from the shoreline. Many locals watch for free from the cape’s boardwalks and viewing platforms, but you can also book a boat tour.

    8. Explore Point Nepean National Park

    Point Nepean National Park is on the Mornington Peninsula’s tip
    Follow over 80 walking and cycling tracks. (Image: Visit Victoria)

    Point Nepean National Park is on the Mornington Peninsula’s tip, just outside Portsea. Set right beside the clifftops, it’s wild, windswept and defined by its rugged terrain.

    Locals love the national park for its more than 80 walking and cycling tracks, and you’ll often spot them getting a winter workout in. But if you’ve never been here, make sure to discover its rich history.

    It forms part of an Indigenous cultural landscape on the lands of the Bunurong People, and holds significance as a site for early settlement and military operations. Numerous historical buildings – including the heritage-listed Quarantine Station – still stand today.

    Start planning the ultimate winter escape at visitmorningtonpeninsula.org.