Food, towns and luxe stays: Here’s how travel has changed since 2005

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Let’s take a look back – and forward – to see how travelling Australia has evolved over nearly two decades of exploring our nation.

To mark 100 editions of Australian Traveller, co-founder Quentin Long sat down with Tourism Australia managing director Phillipa Harrison to discuss what has (and has not) changed in travel in Australia from the year the magazine launched in 2005 to today and beyond.

Australian Travellerco-founder Quentin Long and Tourism Australia managing director Phillipa Harrison
Australian Traveller co-founder Quentin Long and Tourism Australia managing director Phillipa Harrison. (Image: Nicky Ryan)

Quentin Long: So, in 2005 I was panicking about launching a new domestic travel media brand. What were you doing?

Phillipa Harrison: I was working for an Accor start-up in the youth hostel space called Base Backpackers. It was capitalising and corporatising the concept of ‘flashpackers’. That was so fun. I was the third employee onboard and we set up 11 hostels in 18 months. And backpacker bars, and a travel agency…

QL: So Jägerbombs at the bar with Pip?

PH: Maybe [laughs].

QL: Do you think Covid has given domestic travellers a greater appreciation for this country? I always hoped it would create a new habit for Aussies. So, for example, instead of going overseas every year, you go every two years.

PH: I do think Australians worked out over Covid that our own backyard is pretty damn special, so I would agree with you. Interestingly though, what appealed to people about Australia 50 years ago and what’s going to appeal to people about Australia in 50 years are similar things… our great natural landscapes… our great food and wine. Actually, 50 years ago, maybe not [laughs]. There’s another big change – food. I remember meeting a German woman who came to Australia in the 1970s and said she could not believe how limited this country was from a food point of view.

the food at Zin House in Mudgee
The Zin House in Mudgee is emblematic of regional Australia’s dynamic dining scene. (Image: Destination NSW)

QL: [Laughs] I believe you got a hardship allowance if you were a French diplomat posted to Canberra in the 1950s and ’60s. How French. “You have to endure meat and potatoes every meal. Sacre bleu."

PH: Fast-forward to today and we have multicultural cuisine, but we also have this incredible produce and the people who produce it telling stories about the provenance. Our research tells us that travellers are blown away by our food.

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QL: Totally. By the way, I reckon it’s hard to have a bad meal in Canberra today. Part of the food story is where it comes from and, for me, regional Australia is the biggest improver since 2005.

PH: You think about going to somewhere like Orange in 2005 versus going there now and you have gourmet meals, great experiences, beautiful boutique accommodation. It really is chalk and cheese and it’s so good to see the regions prospering like that.

QL: Orange is an easy one. And Mudgee’s another easy one.

PH: The whole of regional Victoria is an eater’s paradise. Beechworth, Metung, Daylesford. The Scenic Rim’s done particularly well. Perth is outstanding. The Peak Trail in the Grampians. That is a beautiful collaboration between councils where they linked up a whole trail of 160 kilometres.

The wine regions have always been our successful regions: think Barossa, Margaret River, the Yarra Valley and Hunter. They’re evolving as well with more experiences around the cellar door that were never there before through things like the Ultimate Winery Experiences Australia and, in particular, its ‘Icons’ series.

wine tasting at sunset in Hope Estate
Hope Estate is one of many world-class wineries in the Hunter Valley. (Image: Destination NSW)

QL: The growth in number and quality in luxury product in Australia is remarkable.

PH: Australia only had a few luxury properties in 2005; Lizard Island Resort, Longitude 131° and El Questro. That was about it. Eleven of the 18 luxury lodges have opened since 2005. So, qualia opened, Southern Ocean Lodge, Saffire Freycinet, Wolgan Valley… So, we now have an incredible range of luxury accommodation and experiences.

QL: We did a project with Tourism Australia in 2007 called the 20 Best Indigenous Tours of Australia in a 32-page magazine. We printed it and supplied the content translated in German. But it was never released in Australia. When I tried to have it distributed with Australian Traveller, there was no budget because: “The research shows that the Australian market is not interested in experiencing Indigenous culture." Today that would definitely not be the case.

PH: Totally. That’s a huge change from 2005. I think the Indigenous tourism offering that we have is much more extensive and immersive. It is run by Indigenous people themselves. It gives them an opportunity to live on Country and keep their culture going.

burning incense during an indigenous tour in Australia, Dreamtime Southern X, Sydney
There are now many wonderful Indigenous tour operators, such as Dreamtime Southern X, Sydney, which explore the way First Nations people experience Country. (Image: Destination NSW)

QL: What do you think Indigenous tourism looks like in 20 years?

PH: I hope that as soon as you travel or arrive in Australia, you know that you are on Aboriginal Country. That experience starts at our airports and infiltrates every tourism experience in some way, shape or form for your whole trip.

an aerial view of the Maria Island, Tasmania
Feel the call of the wild on Maria Island, Tasmania, one of the Great Walks of Australia.

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QL: What would you love every Australian to do?

PH: One of the multi-day walks.

QL: Really?

PH: Yeah. I love, love, love them. They slow you down, you’re not zooming past this landscape, you’re immersed in it and you’re just walking really slowly through it. I actually think they’re largely undiscovered, the Great Walks.

the Larapinta Trail, a great walk in Australia
Trek the Larapinta Trail, another Great Walk, in comfort with Australian Walking Holidays. (Image: Peter Walton)

QL: This leads me to something else. One of the great regrets of my life is I didn’t do the Larapinta Trail before my MS got to the stage where I can’t. So, accessible tourism, I think we’ve come a long way. I heard Paralympic Games champion Dylan Alcott speak at the annual Tourism Australia Destination Australia conference this year and it really highlighted the issue for me. He described how he went to Noosa and saw they had beach mats for his wheelchair, and that was the second time he went to the beach in his life. As an Australian, you go, “Um, whaaaat??? An Australian who has only been to the beach twice…" Final question. If you could click your fingers and change one thing in Australia’s travel landscape, what would it be?

PH: That’s a really good question [laughs]. What would you change?

QL: Uh, honestly… I would change our service culture.

PH: See, I don’t think this is too bad.

QL: It’s not terrible, just inconsistent.

PH: Yeah, OK. Something related to that. I want more people to see tourism as a career, like it is in other countries. I have spent my entire career in tourism and I would love for more Australians to do the same, because it is a great industry to be a part of.

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8 Northern Territory secrets the locals don’t want you to know

    Lee Mylne Lee Mylne
    Summer transforms the Northern Territory into a lush paradise of colour and life, as a visit during the ‘low-season’ reveals secrets the locals willingly share.

    Waterlilies bloom, floodplains are alive with birdlife, waterfalls are gushing, and everywhere the green is dazzling. Summer in the Top End and the Red Centre is a kaleidoscope of unexpected wonders that delight and surprise visitors. Of course, the locals know only too well that the Northern Territory low season is often the best time to see and experience this amazing part of Australia.

    Here are some of the reasons why savvy travellers – avoiding the crowds – are discovering a new dimension to the Territory. Remember that you’ll need a Parks Pass to visit national parks.

    1. Take a dip in the Florence Falls waterhole

    Wander through savanna woodland and monsoon forest to discover the perfect place to cool off – the waterhole at the base of spectacular Florence Falls in the magnificent Litchfield National Park, just 90 minutes’ drive from Darwin. The falls flow year-round but are most spectacular during the summer. Camping is available nearby but bookings are essential and must be made online before you visit.

    Surrounded by lush forest, a woman cools off in Florence Falls, just one of many incredible things to do in the Northern Territory.
    Cool off beneath the cascading waters of Florence Falls. (Image: Joshua Griffin)

    2. Wind down at Buley Rock Hole

    Another popular local swimming spot in Litchfield National Park is Buley Rock Hole, open year-round. This is a great place to wind down after exploring everything the park has to offer, including towering termite mounds. Wade through the rock pools, soak up the scenic bush or just lie back and relax as the cool water rolls over you.

    Buley Rockhole, Litchfield National Park
    Let the cool water wash over you. (Image: Tourism Australia)

    3. Tour the Tiwi Islands

    The Tiwi Islands, a scenic 80km flight from Darwin across the narrow Clarence and Dundas Straits, reveal a different side to the Territory, with their own distinctive culture. Take a day tour with Tiwi by Design to visit Bathurst Island and learn about creation stories, the Mission days, World War II history and the islanders’ obsession with AFL!

    Take a ‘behind-the-scenes’ tour of Tiwi Design’s screen-printing workshop and pick up a great souvenir in the form of art. Choose from contemporary or traditional Tiwi designs and a wide range of work including carvings, paintings, pottery, printmaking, bark paintings and tunga (bark baskets).

    A creative moment shared inside Tiwi Design’s screen-printing space.
    Take a peek inside Tiwi Design’s screen-printing studio. (Image: Tourism NT)

    4. Dine in Darwin

    Foodies are spoilt for choice in multi-cultural Darwin. Try Sri Lankan flavours at Ella by Minoli, where Masterchef contestant Minoli De Silva creates delectable dishes, or head to Charlie’s of Darwin for gin-tasting, cocktails and more. Bowls of fragrant laksa, excellent coffee, fresh vegetables and authentic crafts are all part of a weekend visit to Darwin’s Parap Markets, Rapid Creek Markets and the Nightcliff Markets.

    Prefer to catch your own dinner? Book a Top End fishing charter to bag a barramundi – and from October register for the annual Million Dollar Fish competition. Hooking one of the tagged barra released each year in waterways across the Territory could win you up to $1 million.

    A bowl of Laksa.
    Eat your way through multicultural Darwin. (Image: Tourism NT)

    5. Up close with Uluṟu

    The magnificent monolith Uluṟu is even more magical when the summer rains fall. When it rains on The Rock, the locals come out to watch – consider yourself lucky if that happens when you visit. Waterfalls cascading off the sides of Uluṟu is a sight that relatively few tourists see.

    There’s so much to do at Uluṟu, from guided walks to learn the stories of the Aṉangu people and the ancient landscape they live in to scenic flights for a bird’s-eye view or a leisurely walk around the base of Uluṟu. Book ahead to spend the evening wandering through the Field of Light installation by Bruce Munro.

    A closer look at Uluru and uncover its ancient stories, sacred sites, and striking natural beauty – one of the most iconic things to do in the Northern Territory.
    Discover the details that make Uluṟu truly sacred. (Image: Tourism NT)

    6. Drive the Red Centre Way

    From Alice Springs, take an epic road trip along the Red Centre Way, taking in Uluru and Watarrka National Park, home to the magnificent Kings Canyon. Allow at least a week to drive through the red heart of Australia by 4WD, a little longer on the sealed road by 2WD vehicle, travelling through ochre deserts, palm-lined valleys and dramatic gorges. Stop off at waterholes for a refreshing dip along the way.

    Kings Canyon offers hiking options for all levels of fitness, from the three-hour Rim Walk atop soaring sandstone walls to the gentler Kings Creek Walk. Either way, you’ll have breathtaking views.

    SEIT Outback Australia is a small group touring specialist offering exciting, adventurous, exclusive and specialised iconic, pioneering and cultural touring in the Red Centre of Australia, giving you the time to learn, absorb and relax in the heart of Australia.<br /><br />This innovative tour company focuses on providing clients with the ultimate interpretive touring experiences with a range of products and customised touring itineraries for small groups and bespoke private charters.<br /><br />The company bases its philosophies from the key words of Spirit, Emotion, Intellect and Task (SEIT).
    Drive through Australia’s heart. (Image: Outback Australia Tours)

    7. Take a walk at Kata Tjuṯa

    Head out early to tackle the Valley of the Winds Walk at Kata Tjuṯa. This natural wonder, also known as The Olgas, is a labyrinth of soaring ochre domes that glow golden at sunrise and sunset (the walk may be closed during the middle of the day as temperatures rise).

    Walking trails range from easy to longer, more difficult tracks. At the Kata Tjuṯa dune viewing area, take in the panoramic view of the domes. The longest of the trails is the Valley of the Winds Walk, a 7.4km circuit that winds between the domes and through creek beds. It’s moderately difficult and steep in places, but offers stunning views – and occasional encounters with kangaroos.

    The Valley of the Winds Walk at Kata Tjuta is one of the most awe-inspiring things to do in the Northern Territory, especially at sunrise when the domes glow golden.
    Step into the golden light of Kata Tjuṯa. (Image: Tourism NT)

    8. Explore Tjoritja/West MacDonnell Ranges

    Tjoritja/West MacDonnell National Park lies 135km west of Alice Springs, with many fascinating natural features to beguile visitors. The ‘West Macs’ formations include chasms, gorges and waterholes – take your swimsuit for a dip at Ormiston Gorge waterhole, open year-round. The Ormiston Pound Walk is a three to four-hour circuit that leaves from the visitor centre and loops back along the gorge via the main waterhole. Other places of interest in the park include Simpsons Gap, Standley Chasm, Ellery Creek Big Hole and Glen Helen.

    Soaking in the serenity of Ormiston Gorge, these two travellers enjoy one of the most scenic things to do in the Northern Territory.
    Take the plunge at Ormiston Gorge waterhole. (Image: Joshua Griffin Litchfield)

    Start planning the NT road trip of a lifetime at northernterritory.com