Unearth the surprises of the Scenic Rim

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From camelcinos to Eweghurt, discover the dairy delights of the scenic rim, and plenty more surprises besides.

Known as the ‘green behind the gold’ or the ‘green cauldron’, Queensland’s Scenic Rim is an ancient volcanic land far removed from the glamour of the Gold Coast, less than a two-hour drive away. The traditional country of the Yugambeh people, with World Heritage-listed rainforest and six national parks spread over an area of some 4000 square kilometres, driving the region offers up scenery and surprises aplenty.

eweghurt towri sheep cheesery
Towri Sheep Cheesery’s famous Eweghurt.

Say cheese

Driving just over an hour from Brisbane, I come to the small village of Harrisville. It’s green, undulating country caressed by recent rains, a typical scene of rustic Australian charm. So far, so normal until I pass a sign reading Summer Land Camel Farm.

 

Down a dirt track I go and there they are: camels and more camels. Some come running to greet me, others just give me the inquisitive once-over and continue munching. How they all got here is a question for co-owner Jeff Flood. Over a camelcino in the on-site cafe (one hump or two?), Jeff tells me his story. He and business partner Paul Martin are scientists from different disciplines whose combined knowledge made this venture possible and viable, even through the tough times of the drought

camel scenic rim qld
A friendly face at Summer Land.

Summer Land is the largest commercial camel farm outside of the Middle East, with more than 550 animals, many having been ‘rescued’ from Central Australia and brought here to breed and produce nutritious, organic dairy products: milk, yoghurt, cheese – including a wonderful Persian feta – and a highly awarded skincare range. “We rear our camels with infinite care and treat them with great respect," says Jeff. For them, it’s living the good life… in Camelot.

 

If it’s sheep cheese you prefer (it’s a rarity in Australia because low yields mean high production costs), your next stop should be Towri Sheep Cheesery in Allenview. Here Carolyn and Dallas Davidson will proudly introduce you to their 350 specially bred sheep and the award-winning hand-crafted cheeses, including Ewe Blue, Black Sheep and Eweghurt, that they produce with their milk.

towri sheep chessery allenview qld
One of the Cheesery’s youngest residents.

Accommodating 12 guests in boutique comfort from late July, the Stables here will be available to book out in their entirety for a weekend of milking sheep, making cheese, cuddling lambs and collecting fresh eggs from the property’s chooks.

Wine or Beer? Or Both?

After all that cheese (including those stashed in your Esky) and invigorating fresh country air, you’ll be in the mood for a few tempting vintages. The Scenic Rim is renowned for its prize-winning wineries where you’ll find a variety of styles, including some excellent fortified wines; the port at Bunjurgen Estate is particularly moreish.

 

Meanwhile, Scenic Rim Brewery at Mt Alford specialises in liquid of an amber hue. Try crafty brews with names like Digga’s Pale Ale and Fat Man Maroon Ale, combined with a homemade deli takeaway lunch that can be enjoyed at a scenic picnic spot nearby.

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The Scenic Rim Food Scene

Talented chefs here are passionately embracing the area’s abundance of farm-fresh veggies, meats, relishes, jams and of course, the dairy products. Two of the best-known chefs are Daniel Groneberg and Richard Ousby, both with big-city credentials. Daniel, with over 27 years’ international experience, runs the kitchen at Kooroomba and his love of the “simple aspects of French country-style cooking" is well known. Richard is a recent arrival at The Overflow Estate 1895’s pretty lakefront cafe after a stellar cooking career at Stokehouse Melbourne and Brisbane, raising the bar with menu ideas as fresh as the produce available.

Walking Tracks to try

Food and wine are fine, but the real joy of a Scenic Rim visit is surely the magnificent Green Cauldron countryside, with its dramatic mountain ranges and verdant valleys. From sedate, well-marked tracks, to challenging mountain scrambles, you’ll love walking here.

scenic rim hike
Hiking the Scenic Rim.

Lower Portals Track, Mt Barney National Park (7.4 kilometres/three hours)

 

Mee-Bor-Rum Circuit, Moogerah Peaks National Park, Mt French section (720 metres/15 minutes)

 

Mt Edwards Summit Trail, Moogerah Peaks National Park, Mt Edwards section (six kilometres/3.5 hours)

 

Rainforest Circuit and Mt Cordeaux Track, Main Range National Park, Cunninghams Gap (Rainforest Circuit 1.6 kilometres/30 minutes; Mt Cordeaux Track 6.8 kilometres/2.5 hours)

 

Palm Grove Circuit, Tamborine National Park, Palm Grove section (2.7 kilometres/one hour)

 

Curtis Falls Track, Tamborine National Park, Joalah section (1.1 kilometres/30 minutes)

 

Witches Falls Circuit, Tamborine National Park, Witches Falls section (3.6 kilometres/one hour)

 

Morans Falls, Lamington National Park, Green Mountains section (4.4 kilometres/1.5 hours)

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Getting there

The Scenic Rim region is a one-hour drive from Brisbane and the Gold Coast.

Staying there

The Scenic Rim brims with stylish locations to rest your head after a long day of indulging. Spicers Peak Lodge boasts top-class cuisine.

spicers peak lodge scenic rim qld
Spicers Peak Lodge.

O’Reilly’s Rainforest Retreat for great activities and walks.

 

Nightfall Camp for a unique luxury glamping experience.

 

For more information visit visitscenicrim.com.au

 

Discover the other destinations and experiences that made it into our Top 100 Ways to Holiday Here This Year special edition of Australian Traveller.
Phil Hawkes
Phillip Hawkes somehow survived a career in tourism marketing, managing ad agencies and PR firms in many locations including London and New York, then finally 25 years based in Hong Kong. He morphed into a travel writer 15 years ago and has had over 120 articles published, focussing on experiences in Asia/Pacific and Europe.
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Exploding supernovas & gold fever: discover the past at this outback Qld town

    Kassia Byrnes Kassia Byrnes
    Under wide-open outback skies, discover a fossicking gem that’s managed to slip under the radar.

    While the name Clermont may feel new to even the most intrepid traveller, its gilded history stretches back centuries. You’ll find it just off the highway, humming quietly under the hazy veil of Queensland’s outback sun. It’s here, hemmed in by mountains and perched atop soil heavy with the earth’s treasures, that one of Australia’s most accessible outback adventures awaits.

    Thanks to deposits of gold, copper and gemstones – souvenirs left by exploding supernovas and the heave of tectonic plates – Clermont became a centre point of Queensland’s Gold Rush. And now? Australia’s fossicking capital is yours to discover.

    Getting there

    car driving along Capricorn Way in queensland
    Take a drive through Queensland’s Mackay Isaac region. (Image: Sean Scott/ TEQ)

    You’ll find Clermont in Queensland’s Mackay Isaac region. To get here, it’s an easy three-hour drive over sealed roads from Mackay. Or, if you’re heading from the Sapphire Fields of Emerald, the drive will carve out just over an hour from your day.

    Whether you’re road-tripping through outback Queensland or just tracing your way through all that Australia has to offer, Clermont is remote but easily accessible.

    Best accommodation in Clermont

    Theresa CreekDam in clermont
    Camp by Theresa Creek Dam. (Image: Riptide Creative/ TEQ)

    All accommodation comes with a generous helping of country hospitality here. The choice is yours between modern hotels, parking up the camper or pitching a tent.

    Theresa Creek Dam lies just outside town. Begin each day with crisp country air and bright outback sunrises. Spend the night under the sparkling country stars and your days out on the dam fishing or kayaking. Even if you aren’t camping, be sure to save space in your itinerary for an afternoon on the red dirt shore.

    To stay closer to town, opt for a central hotel to base yourself between exploring and fossicking, like Smart Stayzzz Inn and Clermont Country Motor Inn.

    Things to do in Clermont

    three people on a tour with Golden Prospecting
    Join a tour with Golden Prospecting.

    One does not visit Clermont without trying their hand at fossicking. There are strict rules when it comes to fossicking, so stick to areas dedicated for general permission and make sure you obtain your license beforehand. Try your luck at McMasters, Four Mile, Town Desert, McDonald Flat and Flat Diggings. To increase your odds, sign on for a tour with the expert team at Golden Prospecting. They’ll give you access to exclusive plots and expert advice along the way.

    Once you’ve tried your luck on the gold fields, head to the Clermont Township and Historical Museum. Each exhibit works like an archaeologist’s brush to dust away the layers of Clermont’s history. Like the steam engine that painstakingly relocated the entire town inch by inch to higher ground after it was decimated by flooding in 1916. See the tools that helped build the Blair Athol mine, historic fire engines, shearing sheds and all sorts of relics that make up Clermont’s story.

    The historic Copperfield Chimney offers a change of pace. Legend has it that fossickers found a solid wall of copper here, over three metres high, kick-starting Queensland’s first-ever copper mine.

    Bush Heli Services flying over clermont queensland
    See Clermont from above with Bush Heli Services. (Image: Riptide Creative/ TEQ)

    For hiking, nearby Dysart is the best place to access Peak Range National Park. Here, mountainous horizons stretch across the outback as if plucked from another world. Set off for a scenic drive along the Peak Downs Highway for access to countless geological wonders. Like the slanting rockface of Wolfang Peak. Summit it, and you’ll find yourself looking out across a scene surely conjured up by Banjo Paterson. Dry scrub dancing in the warm breeze, grazing cattle, eucalypts and the gentle creak of windmills. Don’t miss visiting Gemini Peaks, either, for one of the park’s best vistas, and a blanket of wild flowers after rain.

    Then, take to the skies with a scenic helicopter tour with Bush Heli-Services. Shift your perspective and cruise above all the sights from your trip. Spots like Lords Table Mountain and Campbell’s Peak are best viewed from the skies.

    Before you head home, be sure to explore the neighbouring townships. Spend a lazy afternoon in the shade of Nebo Hotel’s wrap-around verandahs. The hotel’s 1900s dance hall has since been replaced with one of the area’s biggest rodeo arenas, so consider timing your trip to line up with a boot scootin’ rodeo. Or, stop by a ghost town. Mount Britton was once a thriving town during the 1880s Gold Rush. It’s been totally abandoned and now lies untouched, a perfect relic of the Gold Rush.

    Best restaurants and cafes in Clermont

    meal at Commercial Hotel
    Stop into the Commercial Hotel Clermont.

    Days spent fossicking, bushwalking and cramming on history call for excellent coffee and hearty country meals. Luckily, Clermont delivers in spades.

    Lotta Lattes Cafe is beloved by locals for a reason. Start your days here for the best caffeine fix in town and an impeccable brunch menu.

    For a real country meal, an icy cold beer and that famed country hospitality, head straight to the town’s iconic hotel: the Commercial Hotel (known endearingly to locals as ‘The Commie’). It’s been a staple in Clermont since 1877. The hotel even survived the flood of 1916 when it was sawn in two and moved to higher ground.

    Naturally, time spent in the outback must include calling into the local bakery. For delicious pies and a tantalising array of sweet treats, make Bluemac Bakehouse your go-to while in town.

    Discover more of The Mackay Isaac region, and start planning your trip at mackayisaac.com.