Unearth the surprises of the Scenic Rim

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From camelcinos to Eweghurt, discover the dairy delights of the scenic rim, and plenty more surprises besides.

Known as the ‘green behind the gold’ or the ‘green cauldron’, Queensland’s Scenic Rim is an ancient volcanic land far removed from the glamour of the Gold Coast, less than a two-hour drive away. The traditional country of the Yugambeh people, with World Heritage-listed rainforest and six national parks spread over an area of some 4000 square kilometres, driving the region offers up scenery and surprises aplenty.

eweghurt towri sheep cheesery
Towri Sheep Cheesery’s famous Eweghurt.

Say cheese

Driving just over an hour from Brisbane, I come to the small village of Harrisville. It’s green, undulating country caressed by recent rains, a typical scene of rustic Australian charm. So far, so normal until I pass a sign reading Summer Land Camel Farm.

 

Down a dirt track I go and there they are: camels and more camels. Some come running to greet me, others just give me the inquisitive once-over and continue munching. How they all got here is a question for co-owner Jeff Flood. Over a camelcino in the on-site cafe (one hump or two?), Jeff tells me his story. He and business partner Paul Martin are scientists from different disciplines whose combined knowledge made this venture possible and viable, even through the tough times of the drought

camel scenic rim qld
A friendly face at Summer Land.

Summer Land is the largest commercial camel farm outside of the Middle East, with more than 550 animals, many having been ‘rescued’ from Central Australia and brought here to breed and produce nutritious, organic dairy products: milk, yoghurt, cheese – including a wonderful Persian feta – and a highly awarded skincare range. “We rear our camels with infinite care and treat them with great respect," says Jeff. For them, it’s living the good life… in Camelot.

 

If it’s sheep cheese you prefer (it’s a rarity in Australia because low yields mean high production costs), your next stop should be Towri Sheep Cheesery in Allenview. Here Carolyn and Dallas Davidson will proudly introduce you to their 350 specially bred sheep and the award-winning hand-crafted cheeses, including Ewe Blue, Black Sheep and Eweghurt, that they produce with their milk.

towri sheep chessery allenview qld
One of the Cheesery’s youngest residents.

Accommodating 12 guests in boutique comfort from late July, the Stables here will be available to book out in their entirety for a weekend of milking sheep, making cheese, cuddling lambs and collecting fresh eggs from the property’s chooks.

Wine or Beer? Or Both?

After all that cheese (including those stashed in your Esky) and invigorating fresh country air, you’ll be in the mood for a few tempting vintages. The Scenic Rim is renowned for its prize-winning wineries where you’ll find a variety of styles, including some excellent fortified wines; the port at Bunjurgen Estate is particularly moreish.

 

Meanwhile, Scenic Rim Brewery at Mt Alford specialises in liquid of an amber hue. Try crafty brews with names like Digga’s Pale Ale and Fat Man Maroon Ale, combined with a homemade deli takeaway lunch that can be enjoyed at a scenic picnic spot nearby.

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The Scenic Rim Food Scene

Talented chefs here are passionately embracing the area’s abundance of farm-fresh veggies, meats, relishes, jams and of course, the dairy products. Two of the best-known chefs are Daniel Groneberg and Richard Ousby, both with big-city credentials. Daniel, with over 27 years’ international experience, runs the kitchen at Kooroomba and his love of the “simple aspects of French country-style cooking" is well known. Richard is a recent arrival at The Overflow Estate 1895’s pretty lakefront cafe after a stellar cooking career at Stokehouse Melbourne and Brisbane, raising the bar with menu ideas as fresh as the produce available.

Walking Tracks to try

Food and wine are fine, but the real joy of a Scenic Rim visit is surely the magnificent Green Cauldron countryside, with its dramatic mountain ranges and verdant valleys. From sedate, well-marked tracks, to challenging mountain scrambles, you’ll love walking here.

scenic rim hike
Hiking the Scenic Rim.

Lower Portals Track, Mt Barney National Park (7.4 kilometres/three hours)

 

Mee-Bor-Rum Circuit, Moogerah Peaks National Park, Mt French section (720 metres/15 minutes)

 

Mt Edwards Summit Trail, Moogerah Peaks National Park, Mt Edwards section (six kilometres/3.5 hours)

 

Rainforest Circuit and Mt Cordeaux Track, Main Range National Park, Cunninghams Gap (Rainforest Circuit 1.6 kilometres/30 minutes; Mt Cordeaux Track 6.8 kilometres/2.5 hours)

 

Palm Grove Circuit, Tamborine National Park, Palm Grove section (2.7 kilometres/one hour)

 

Curtis Falls Track, Tamborine National Park, Joalah section (1.1 kilometres/30 minutes)

 

Witches Falls Circuit, Tamborine National Park, Witches Falls section (3.6 kilometres/one hour)

 

Morans Falls, Lamington National Park, Green Mountains section (4.4 kilometres/1.5 hours)

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Getting there

The Scenic Rim region is a one-hour drive from Brisbane and the Gold Coast.

Staying there

The Scenic Rim brims with stylish locations to rest your head after a long day of indulging. Spicers Peak Lodge boasts top-class cuisine.

spicers peak lodge scenic rim qld
Spicers Peak Lodge.

O’Reilly’s Rainforest Retreat for great activities and walks.

 

Nightfall Camp for a unique luxury glamping experience.

 

For more information visit visitscenicrim.com.au

 

Discover the other destinations and experiences that made it into our Top 100 Ways to Holiday Here This Year special edition of Australian Traveller.

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Phil Hawkes
Phillip Hawkes somehow survived a career in tourism marketing, managing ad agencies and PR firms in many locations including London and New York, then finally 25 years based in Hong Kong. He morphed into a travel writer 15 years ago and has had over 120 articles published, focussing on experiences in Asia/Pacific and Europe.
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From reef to rainforest: Discover the best Port Douglas experiences

(Credit: TTNQ)

    Lucy Cousins Lucy Cousins
    Ancient rainforest, coral reefs, laid-back luxury and adrenaline-fuelled adventures, Port Douglas offers a side of Australia unlike anywhere else.

    Mornings in Port Douglas start with a beautiful symphony. As day breaks, the lyrical calls of Rainbow Lorikeets, cries of the sulphur-crested cockatoos and rhythmic Coral Sea waves create a colourful soundtrack for Tropical North Queensland’s sunrise. If there’s one place in Australia that captures the sweet spot between luxury and laid-back living, it’s here. This small, seaside village has just enough glamour to feel indulgent and just enough barefoot charm to make you feel like you’ve escaped the chaos of everyday life.

    Whether you’re diving into the warm waters on Four Mile Beach or enjoying an ice-cold drink and a Barramundi burger overlooking the marina, Port Douglas offers more than just a seaside holiday.

    Local gourmet goodies

    Nautilus restaurant port douglas
    Nab an open-air table beneath a canopy of palms at Nautilus. (Image: Toby Stanley)

    The tropical food scene in Port Douglas is influenced by the rich agricultural regions surrounding it, with fresh produce arriving daily from nearby farms and tropical growers across the region. At Nautilus – a hidden, palm-fringed restaurant just off Macrossan Street – the menu showcases regional flavours. Its Signature Nautilus Mango Soufflé is a long-time favourite.

    Nearby, Hi-Tide by the Beach offers a relaxed way beachfront dining experience overlooking the Coral Sea. From crocodile and lemon myrtle spring rolls to wild barramundi and a volcanic hot stone steak, taste the diverse flavours of Tropical North Queensland.

    Visitors can also explore the region’s local markets. Port Douglas Markets offers artisan products and tropical treats each Sunday, while the Saturday morning Mossman Markets is the place for fresh local produce from the surrounding farming community.

    Just outside of Port Douglas, Ospreys at Thala Beach Nature Reserve has one of the region’s most memorable dining outlooks. Perched on a small headland between rainforest and sea, take in views across the coastline and mountains while you dine. The seasonal menu highlights local seafood, tropical fruits and native ingredients sourced from across the region

    Travelling with young humans

    Hartley's Crocodile Adventures port douglas
    Catch a spectacle at Hartley’s Crocodile Adventures. (Credit: TTNQ)

    Port Douglas caters for all types of visitors, but families especially love the walkable streets, wide beaches and range of activities nearby. An attraction that never fails to delight all ages is Hartley’s Crocodile Adventures – a wildlife sanctuary and ecotourism park with some of the region’s largest crocodiles. Here, you’ll also find koalas, cassowaries, turtles and other Australian wildlife.

    For something slower paced, sit back and enjoy a tranquil visit aboard the historic Lady Douglas River Cruise. Glide along the calm waters of Dickson Inlet, keeping an eye out for birdlife and estuarine crocodiles along the mangroves. Children can take part in activity sheets onboard and even have the opportunity to help steer the boat.

    This region is also deeply connected to Indigenous culture, and a Dreamtime Walk is one way to learn about it. Discover the stories, traditions and connection to Country of the local Kuku Yalanji people from local Indigenous guides, while exploring the rainforest and waters of Mossman Gorge.

    Exploring local waterways

    Coya Beach port douglas
    Walk along the peaceful Cooya Beach. (Credit: TTNQ)

    Join a guided tour with Walkabout Cultural Adventures to explore the peaceful Cooya Beach. Led by deeply knowledgeable local Aboriginal guides, try seasonal local bush tucker, take in the beautiful landscape and gain insight into the history, culture and traditions of this land.

    Surrounded by dense canopy and ancient species, nearby Hartley’s Creek Falls are at their finest after rain. These beautiful falls are reached via a lush rainforest walk that winds through creek crossings, towering greenery and moss-covered boulders.

    To swim where the locals swim, head out past local farms and into the foothills of the Mossman River to Shannonvale – a low-key freshwater swimming hole surrounded by sun-warmed rocks and deep pockets of clear water. It’s a quiet area to spend a few hours retreating from the world.

    Adrenaline adventures

    Sailaway Port Douglas
    Take to the ocean with Sailaway Port Douglas. (Credit: TTNQ)

    One of the most high-octane ways to enjoy the nature of Tropical North Queensland is white-water rafting down the impressive Barron River. With Grade two and Grade three rapids, expect plenty of splashing, some teamwork, and a few moments where everyone in the raft screams and laughs at the same time.

    Join Back Country Bliss for the most unique floating experience you’ll ever encounter. Head into the rainforest and float along the serene Mossman River on your individual board, taking in the sights and sounds of the ancient landscape around you.

    If you prefer ocean swimming, Sailaway Port Douglas explores the idyllic Low Isles and the outer reef on their snorkelling tours. Enjoy the Great Barrier Reef from above or below and look out for coral gardens, giant clams, colourful reef fish and, if you’re lucky, sea turtles.

    For land-lovers, the Devil’s Thumb is a challenging but rewarding hike with incredible views over the coast and endless cane fields. This 10km return hike will take around six to eight hours, so leave a whole day and pack snacks!

    Experiences that give back

    Skyrail Rainforest Cableway port douglas experiences
    See the rainforest from above on The Skyrail Rainforest Cableway. (Credit: TTNQ)

    With two UNESCO World Heritage-listed sites – the Great Barrier Reef and the Wet Tropics of Queensland rainforest region – it’s not surprising Tropical North Queensland is a hub for eco-tourism. The stunning Daintree Ecolodge was founded on the principles of minimising environmental impact, supporting the local community and teaching guests about the local Indigenous culture. Their elevated rainforest-style ‘bayans’ are tucked among the trees, bringing nature into every part of a guest’s stay.

    Further down the coast, the luxury bungalows and treetop hideaways of Thala Beach Nature Reserve are dotted across 45 acres of protected headland, forest and beach. The property’s design intentionally preserves large areas of native vegetation and beachfront ecosystem, while conserving the surrounding habitat. The private beach and various swimming pools offer a cool retreat from the heat of the day, while the main lodge offers the perfect place to read and relax.

    The Skyrail Rainforest Cableway, a 7.5-kilometre cableway between Cairns and nearby Kuranda, has won multiple tourism and environmental awards. It’s also the first tourism attraction in the world to achieve Platinum EarthCheck Accreditation, for its long-term environmental management and sustainability initiatives.

    Start planning your Port Douglas adventure at tropicalnorthqueensland.org.au.