Four legendary outback pubs, one ancient salt lake full of water, and now someone’s built a pub crawl around it.
Kati Thanda–Lake Eyre is alive with floodwaters, transforming Australia’s largest salt lake into one of the country’s rarest natural spectacles. Now it’s the backdrop for the most extraordinary pub crawl the outback has ever seen.
Most Australians have never seen Kati Thanda from the air. Most have never ordered a beer at William Creek Hotel, where every hat on the wall belongs to someone who understood they’d stumbled onto something genuinely rare.
Prairie Hotel in Parachilna has built what they’re calling the Outback Pub Pilgrimage: a 1.5-day, fly-in journey stitching together four of Australia’s most mythologised remote watering holes, across landscapes most Australians will never otherwise see.
The Outback Pub Pilgrimage begins at the Prairie Hotel. (Credit: South Australian Tourism Commission)
The timing is no accident. Right now, Kati Thanda – Australia’s largest salt lake, usually a shimmering white void – is flooded. It fills rarely, unpredictably, and only briefly. From the air, it’s a sight that defies the outback’s reputation for brown and sparse: an inland sea, gleaming and improbable, stretching to a horizon you can’t quite believe.
The Outback Pub Pilgrimage is hosted by an expert pilot who doubles as a guide. Guests arrive and stay at Prairie Hotel the evening before departure with dinner built on native ingredients, wines from South Australia’s best small producers, and a cold beer from the Parachilna Brew Project, SA’s most remote brewery. Then, the next morning, 500 metres to the private airstrip.
Have morning tea at William Creek Hotel. (Credit: South Australian Tourism Commission)
The route is four stops, each one a chapter in the story of the Australian outback. The plane sweeps low over Kati Thanda before touching down at William Creek Hotel for morning tea – a pub dating to 1935, originally a siding on the old Ghan railway line, sitting in the middle of Anna Creek Station, the largest cattle station on earth at 32,500 square kilometres.
From there, head deep into Queensland’s Channel Country and the Birdsville Hotel, with a sunset drive out to Big Red, the great rust-coloured dune on the edge of the Simpson Desert, and an overnight at the pub. The next day will take you to Cooper Creek and the Innamincka Hotel, where Burke and Wills made their last camp, and where lunch feels like a moment to sit with the weight of the country. Then back to Parachilna, fires lit, cold beer on.
The floodwaters that have filled Kati Thanda have also limited traditional overland access to Birdsville. The Pilgrimage turns that challenge into an opportunity. What used to require a rugged 4WD odyssey now unfolds from the window of a Cessna 210, above country that few people have ever flown over.
Details
See the unique landscape from a bird’s-eye view. (Credit: South Australian Tourism Commission)
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Emily Murphy is Australian Traveller's Email & Social Editor, and in her time at the company she has been instrumental in shaping its social media and email presence, and crafting compelling narratives that inspire others to explore Australia's vast landscapes. Her previous role was a journalist at Prime Creative Media and before that she was freelancing in publishing, content creation and digital marketing. When she's not creating scroll-stopping travel content, Em is a devoted 'bun mum' and enjoys spending her spare time by the sea, reading, binge-watching a good TV show and exploring Sydney's vibrant dining scene. Next on her Aussie travel wish list? Tasmania and The Kimberley.
Rest and recuperate in the East Gippsland region, a haven of natural hot springs, seasonal festivals and really tasty things to eat.
It’s about this time of year that the buzz of the summer holidays is well and truly behind us, and the pressures of the day-to-day are starting to pile up. The solution? A proper weekend escape, ideally one with a focus on rest, relaxation and total reset.
East Gippsland delivers all three in spades. Here, you’ll find charming towns, natural scenery alive with wildlife and easygoing experiences – think steamy hot springs and idyllic lakefront stays that practically force you to unwind.
The Gippsland Lakes are one of the region’s highlights, a sprawling network of glassy waterways with a seriously calming atmosphere. Spend a few days here, and you’ll be well and truly recharged.
Here’s where to eat, stay, explore and unwind for a wellness-focused weekend in this gorgeous region.
Getting there
Visit lakeside villages like Lakes Entrance.
East Gippsland is a patchwork of towns, each with its own personality: coastal gems like Marlo and Mallacoota, lakeside villages including Metung, Paynesville and Lakes Entrance and a smattering of inland communities.
From Melbourne, getting to each is easy. The region can be reached by car in around four hours, just a smooth drive along the Princes Highway.
If you’re driving to or from Sydney, many of the towns sit along the legendary Sydney to Melbourne coastal drive, which winds its way through Lakes Entrance, Orbost, Marlo and Mallacoota.
Having a car makes exploring the region a breeze, as you can pull over at farm gates, take scenic detours and go at your own relaxing pace.
Winter delights
Experience that East Gippsland Winter Festival. (Credit: Naomi Rahim)
Winter is a particularly good time to visit. The East Gippsland Winter Festival is a raucous celebration of wintery food, drink, music and experiences, taking place over an entire month and in different towns.
Expect re-enactments, games, roving performances and fiery displays at the Bruthen Medieval event. Feast your way through regional bites and watch live wood carving and a hotly contested dumpling-eating competition in the waterside town of Metung. Head to Lakes Entrance for one of the festival’s signature events, Lakes Lights: Gardens of the Galaxy – a slightly cosmic and totally mesmerising display of lights. Or book a seat at the Nicholson River Trestle Bridge Long Lunch. This long-table feast stretches across the entire bridge, with sweeping river views and top-tier local produce.
Where to stay
Rejuvinate at Metung Hot Springs.
Metung is also a much-loved destination for natural hot springs – warm mineral pools believed to restore and detoxify the system. Here, you’ll find a network of tranquil springs fed with water sourced 500m below the surface, all at varying temperatures but with a healthy mix of soothing minerals and trace elements. Each looks over the stunning surrounding lakes, only adding to the sense of serenity.
Extend the relaxation by booking into Metung Hot Springs. The property is home to a collection of glamping tents – either perched on the hillside or overlooking the lagoon – that deliver after-hours access to the springs. These are no ordinary tents; expect plush linens, beautifully curated furnishings, warm service and a complimentary gourmet breakfast delivered daily.
Alternatively, book a night or two at Idle Lake House – a gorgeously appointed hideaway in Lakes Entrance. The aesthetic is moody, modern and very cool, and the property is situated right on the water’s edge with floor-to-ceiling windows that immerse you in the surroundings.
Where to eat
Sit down at the floating restaurant, Sodafish. (Credit: We Are Explorers)
Given its wealth of fresh seafood and exceptional produce, East Gippsland is home to a vast selection of eateries, with options to suit all tastes and budgets.
For something a little bit fancy, Sardine Dining in Paynesville is a must-visit. The hatted restaurant serves a seasonal seafood-focused menu made with premium local ingredients, while the adjoining wine bar is a top spot for a regional drop and a light snack.
If you’re after a relaxed bite, Sodafish in Lakes Entrance is your best bet. This floating restaurant sits right atop the water, with a vibrant and fresh menu centred on locally caught seafood. Anything off the menu is delicious, but the whole roasted snapper and locally sourced fish and chips are standouts.
Or luxuriate with a long afternoon at the nearby Slipway. This waterfront dining precinct hosts a mix of vendors serving casual food, craft drinks and regionally made goods.
Exploring the great outdoors and local culture
Keep an eye out for the locals. (Credit: Tyson Mayr)
No wellness weekend would be complete without immersing yourself in the beauty and tranquillity of East Gippsland’s outdoors.
Head to Raymond Island – a small island just off Paynesville – to spot local koalas along the Koala Trail. This two-kilometre stretch is one of the few places where you can see koalas doing their thing in their natural habitat, with more than 200 living on the island. Leave the car in Paynesville; the trail can only be accessed on foot.
Next, explore the Gippsland Lakes Discovery Trail, which starts in Colquhoun and ends in Lakes Entrance. Across 23 kilometres, you’ll spot native flora and fauna (including lace goannas) and pass by remnants of the tramway that once serviced timber workers in the area.
Finish up your East Gippsland jaunt with a visit to Gunaikurnai Cultural Hub. The centre houses an Aboriginal Art Gallery displaying contemporary works by Aboriginal artists, and a Bush Cafe serving breakfast and lunch classics and excellent cakes. Pick up a slice and a coffee for your trip back to the city.
