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The outback pub crawl that comes with a window seat over Kati Thanda-Lake Eyre

Credit: South Australian Tourism Commission

Four legendary outback pubs, one ancient salt lake full of water, and now someone’s built a pub crawl around it.

Kati Thanda–Lake Eyre is alive with floodwaters, transforming Australia’s largest salt lake into one of the country’s rarest natural spectacles. Now it’s the backdrop for the most extraordinary pub crawl the outback has ever seen.

Most Australians have never seen Kati Thanda from the air. Most have never ordered a beer at William Creek Hotel, where every hat on the wall belongs to someone who understood they’d stumbled onto something genuinely rare.

Prairie Hotel in Parachilna has built what they’re calling the Outback Pub Pilgrimage: a 1.5-day, fly-in journey stitching together four of Australia’s most mythologised remote watering holes, across landscapes most Australians will never otherwise see.

Prairie Hotel outback pub exterior at night
The Outback Pub Pilgrimage begins at the Prairie Hotel. (Credit: South Australian Tourism Commission)

The timing is no accident. Right now, Kati Thanda – Australia’s largest salt lake, usually a shimmering white void – is flooded. It fills rarely, unpredictably, and only briefly. From the air, it’s a sight that defies the outback’s reputation for brown and sparse: an inland sea, gleaming and improbable, stretching to a horizon you can’t quite believe.

The Outback Pub Pilgrimage is hosted by an expert pilot who doubles as a guide. Guests arrive and stay at Prairie Hotel the evening before departure with dinner built on native ingredients, wines from South Australia’s best small producers, and a cold beer from the Parachilna Brew Project, SA’s most remote brewery. Then, the next morning, 500 metres to the private airstrip.

William Creek Hotel outback pub exterior with Cessna plane out front
Have morning tea at William Creek Hotel. (Credit: South Australian Tourism Commission)

The route is four stops, each one a chapter in the story of the Australian outback. The plane sweeps low over Kati Thanda before touching down at William Creek Hotel for morning tea – a pub dating to 1935, originally a siding on the old Ghan railway line, sitting in the middle of Anna Creek Station, the largest cattle station on earth at 32,500 square kilometres.

From there, head deep into Queensland’s Channel Country and the Birdsville Hotel, with a sunset drive out to Big Red, the great rust-coloured dune on the edge of the Simpson Desert, and an overnight at the pub. The next day will take you to Cooper Creek and the Innamincka Hotel, where Burke and Wills made their last camp, and where lunch feels like a moment to sit with the weight of the country. Then back to Parachilna, fires lit, cold beer on.

The floodwaters that have filled Kati Thanda have also limited traditional overland access to Birdsville. The Pilgrimage turns that challenge into an opportunity. What used to require a rugged 4WD odyssey now unfolds from the window of a Cessna 210, above country that few people have ever flown over.

Details

Prairie Hotel outback pub aerial
See the unique landscape from a bird’s-eye view. (Credit: South Australian Tourism Commission)

Tour: Outback Pub Pilgrimage

Duration: 1.5 days

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Emily Murphy
Emily Murphy is Australian Traveller's Email & Social Editor, and in her 4+ years at the company she has been instrumental in shaping its social media and email presence, and crafting compelling narratives that inspire others to explore Australia's vast landscapes. Her previous role was a journalist at Prime Creative Media and before that she was freelancing in publishing, content creation and digital marketing. When she's not creating scroll-stopping travel content, Em is a devoted 'bun mum' and enjoys spending her spare time by the sea, reading, binge-watching a good TV show and exploring Sydney's vibrant dining scene. Next on her Aussie travel wish list? South Australia and The Kimberley.
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Victoria’s surprising new outdoor adventure hotspot

    Craig Tansley Craig Tansley
    A town charmingly paused in time has become a hot mountain biking destination. 

    There’s a forest reserve full of eucalyptus and pines surrounding town – when you combine all the greenery with a main street of grand old buildings still standing from the Victorian Gold Rush, Creswick looks more period movie set than a 21st-century town.  

    old gold bank Victoria
    Grand buildings from the Victorian gold rush. (Image: Visit Victoria)

    This entire region of Victoria – the Central Goldfields – is as pretty-as-a-picture, but there’s something extra-special about Creswick. I used to live 30 minutes north; I’d drive in some evenings to cruise its main street at dusk, and pretend I was travelling back in time. 

    It was sleepy back then, but that’s changed. Where I used to walk through its forest, now I’m hurtling down the state’s best new mountain bike trails. There’s a 60-kilometre network of mountain bike trails – dubbed Djuwang Baring – which make Creswick the state’s hottest new mountain biking destination.  

    Meet Victoria’s new mountain biking capital 

    Creswick bike trail
    This historic town has become a mountain biking hotspot.

    Victoria has a habit of turning quiet country towns into mountain biking hotspots. I was there in the mid-2000s when the tiny Otways village of Forrest embarked on an ambitious plan to save itself (after the death of its timber cutting industry) courtesy of some of the world’s best mountain bike trails. A screaming success it proved to be, and soon mountain bike trails began popping up all over Victoria. 

    I’m no expert, so I like that a lot of Creswick’s trails are as scenic as they are challenging. I prefer intermediate trails, such as Down Martuk, with its flowing berms and a view round every corner. Everyone from outright beginners to experts can be happy here. There’s trails that take me down technical rock sections with plenty of bumps. But there’s enough on offer to appeal to day-trippers, as much as hard-core mountain-bikers. 

    I love that the trails empty onto that grand old main street. There’s bars still standing from the Gold Rush of the 1850s I can refuel at. Like the award-winning Farmers Arms, not to be confused with the pub sharing its name in Daylesford. It’s stood since 1857. And The American Creswick built two years later, or Odessa Wine Bar, part of Leaver’s Hotel in an 1856-built former gold exchange bank.  

    The Woodlands
    The Woodlands is set on a large bushland property. (Image: Vanessa Smith Photography)

    Creswick is also full of great cafes and restaurants, many of them set in the same old buildings that have stood for 170 years. So whether you’re here for the rush of the trails or the calm of town life, Creswick provides. 

    A traveller’s checklist 

    Staying there 

    1970s log cabin
    Inside the Woodlands, a chic 1970s log cabin. (Image: Vanessa Smith Photography)

    RACV Goldfields Resort is a contemporary stay with a restaurant, swimming pool and golf course. The Woodlands in nearby Lal Lal comprises a chic log cabin set on a 16-hectare property abundant in native wildlife. 

    Eating there 

    Le Peche Gourmand
    Le Peche Gourmand makes for the perfect pitstop for carb and sugar-loading.

    The menu at Odessa at Leaver’s Hotel includes some Thai-inspired fare. Fuel up for your ride on baguettes and pastries from French patisserie Le Peche Gourmand. The Farmers Arms has been a much-loved local institution since 1857. 

    Playing there 

    Miss NorthcottsGarden
    Miss Northcotts Garden is a charming garden store with tea room. (Image: Visit Victoria)

    Creswick State Forest has a variety of hiking trails, including a section of the 210-kilometre-long Goldfields Track. Miss Northcotts Garden is a quaint garden store with tea room. 

    Outback Pub Pilgrimage: pub crawl + Kati Thanda-Lake Eyre flight - Australian Traveller