The Australian Outback caters to all travel habits, Peter Robinson explores the six star to the no star Outback accommodation options.
Driving your own 4WD to the outback (and back) is one of the great satisfactions in life.
Coming home with a filthy, dirty, mud-encrusted or animal-dented car also sticks it up those aforementioned do-gooders who want to run you out of town for owning a 4WD in the city. And, since water restrictions practically make it illegal to wash your car these days, you should feel free to let that outback style linger.
Surprisingly, much of the outback can be toured in total luxury. Try El Questro in the Kimberley for starters. Stay at the homestead and enjoy fine food, helicopter flights, barramundi fishing and a host of other treats. This is one of the most expensive and exclusive places in Australia.
Luxury tented camps with full amenities and ensuites are springing up. Shabby motels are giving way to luxury cottages or farmstays.
In the Flinders Ranges, try Wilpena Pound Resort and Rawnsley Park Station. At the Prairie Hotel in Parachilna there’s legendary bush food and great rooms. Bamurru Plains on the Mary River floodplains in the NT is luxury on a working buffalo station, and at Uluru, Longitude 131 has won international acclaim. At the other end of the spectrum, you can take a swag and sleep under the stars.
Adventure is out there for the taking, but first you should have a vehicle that’s suited to the job. A soft-roader or SUV isn’t up to the task if you want the freedom to travel to most great outback destinations.
You and your 4WD need to ford rivers, mount rich red dunes, climb giant sandhills and handle the tyre-shredding punishment that the worst tracks can present. On this score, a comprehensive 4WD training course (see previous page) is highly recommended – and don’t forget the co-driver. Emergency, safety and survival information is essential.
A turbo-diesel vehicle is best for the range and durability afforded; just make sure you don’t own a lemon. It’s a long way to the nearest dealer for warranty service. Plan your journey – it’ll take longer than you think.
Grey Nomads take a year or more for their retirement lap of Australia, then come home to prepare another trip to fill in any gaps. At the other end of the scale, parents of young children should think carefully about long weeks on outback roads (you might have to wean them off TV first).
It’s a huge country out there, and almost all of it is outback. You don’t need to embark on the expedition of a lifetime to unleash the pioneering spirit – this is a pilgrimage we all need.
Just grab your Akubra, camera, Red Centre map and be prepared to get your 4WD dirty . . .
Make this dazzling stretch of beaches and natural wonders your home base for a grand adventure
Whether you’re setting out solo, bringing a mate, or packing in the whole family, no road trip along Australia’s East Coast is complete without at least a few days spent exploring the Coffs Coast. A stunning stretch of NSW coastline nestled between ancient high-elevation rainforests and magnificent, undiscovered beaches, Coffs offers amazing biodiversity, stunning natural beauty, and heaps of local charm, without the crowds. Pull up in Coffs Harbour , your perfect home base for these unforgettable day-trips.
1. Southern Beaches
The Coffs region boasts 30 of Australia’s most beautiful, unspoiled beaches, directly abutting a dramatic tableau of mountains and rainforests. Drive South of Coffs Harbour to find up-and-coming surf destinations where it’s still possible to catch an empty wave. First up is the picturesque Sawtellvillage . Wander the famous fig-tree-lined main street packed with laid-back places to eat and drink. Enjoy panoramic views and seasonal whale sightings at Bonville Headland on the Southern end of the beach.
Nearby Bongil Bongil National Park boasts seven kilometres of empty beach, along with hiking and cycling trails through beachfront rainforests – keep an eye out for koalas living in the trees. Boambee Beach and Boambee Creek Reserve are great for families, with shallow waters perfect for kayaking and SUPing, plus an off-leash dog beach.
Experience small-town charm in Sawtell.
2. Orara Valley Tourist Trail
The Orara Valley Tourist Trail has it all: hinterland bushwalks, birdwatching, horse riding, pristine swimming holes and rolling green pastures dotted with dairy farms and historic villages. And it’s only 15 minutes west of Coffs Harbour.
Sample produce at a roadside stall, stop into Coramba Hotel for a quintessential country pub lunch, or try the Idle in Cafe in Nana Glen for coffee and scones. Then spend the afternoon kayaking the Orara River or mountain biking on Mt Coramba. If you’re feeling adventurous, follow the 4WD touring route along the Orara Escarpment in Bindarri National Park , a rugged landscape with dazzling views that winds through untouched eucalypt rainforests and waterfalls.
Explore the green heart of Coffs.
3. Dorrigo National Park
Enjoy a classic day trip from Coffs to forest bathe in some of the oldest subtropical rainforests in the world at Dorrigo National Park, part of the World Heritage-listed Gondwana Rainforests. These million-year-old ecosystems promise rare bird sightings, towering strangler figs, and epic walking tracks and picnic spots. Try the 6.6 km Wonga Walk to experience dreamy Crystal Shower Falls (where you can walk behind the falls) and the Skywalk Lookout, which offers spectacular views of the valley and coast. Then stop in Dorrigo town for a homey lunch. It’s worth noting that a section of the road between Ulong and Dorrigo – which dates to the 1880s – is unsealed, adding to the area’s end-of-the-earth allure but making travel difficult in adverse weather conditions. Alternatively, head to Dorrigo via the delightful township of Bellingen .
Wander the Skywalk.
4. Northern Beaches
For another tranquil expanse of sun, sand and surf breaks, head north to Woolgoolga (Tourism Australia’s Best Mainland Beach for 2025. Taste the coffee and local-produce breakfast at one of several cafes, then spot whales during their migration season along the Woolgoolga Whale Trail to the headland. Emerald Beach offers clear blue waters and another headland walk, perfect for taking in views of South Solitary Island, a dramatically rocky-cliffed island with a historic lighthouse. Red Rock, some 40km north of Coffs and named for its striking coastal rock formations, boasts a gorgeous estuary reserve that’s perfect for languorous days spent picnicking, swimming, fishing, and connecting with the relaxed local pace.
Enjoy fresh seafood overlooking Woolgoolga Beach.
5. Jetty precinct
You could easily spend a whole day exploring the Jetty precinct – from its foreshores to the marina to Muttonbird Island. Start with fresh fish and chips from local institution Coffs Harbour Fisherman’s Co-op , before browsing the popular Harbourside Markets held every Sunday on the foreshores.
Take a scenic walk along the breakwall to Muttonbird Island , a cultural and ecological treasure with panoramic views and rich Gumbaynggirr heritage. The Giidany Miirlarl Education Space shares the island’s ancient stories, or join a guided moonlight tour to see the seasonal return of the muttonbirds.
Back at the Jetty Strip, find a buzzing mix of cafes, bars and restaurants with cuisines from around the world, open from morning until late. Don’t miss The Jetty Pavilion , a favourite for its unique menu blending modern Australian cuisine with vibrant world flavours.
Walk the path where land meets sea and sky.
6. Grafton
Head inland from mid-October to early November to catch Grafton’s jacaranda season, when the town’s streets and parks are covered in purple. Even better, time your trip between 24 October and 2 November to attend the famous Jacaranda Festival, with special food items, performances and more. At any time of year, follow the self-guided Grafton Heritage Trail to discover the town’s historic buildings, landmarks and stories. Or get the blood pumping with a trip along the longest mapped white-water trail in Australia – the Clarence Canoe and Kayak Trail. Book a tour with Exodus Adventures .
Time your Grafton trip to see the jacarandas in full bloom. (Image: @myclarencevalley)
7. Nambucca
Just south of Coffs Harbour sits Nambucca, the ideal town for a relaxed, coastal day trip. Hire a canoe, kayak or boat to explore over 80 kilometres of waterways stretching from the hinterland to the ocean. For those who prefer to stay on dry land (or double up their adventure for the day), stretch your legs along the V-Wall – a scenic coastal walk along the Nambucca River – dotted with boulders painted by the community, sharing messages, art and local stories. Stop along the way to buy Sydney rock oysters direct from local farmers, or try your own hand at fishing. Before heading back to Coffs, refuel on fresh seafood and wood-fired pizzas at Matilda’s in Nambucca .
Explore Nambucca’s waterways. (Image: Seen Australia)
