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The boutique coastal stay worth skipping Byron Bay for

Credit: Kara Roselund

Welcome to Hotel Addict, a monthly column where I check into Australia’s best hotels and share what makes them worthy of your wishlist.

The Tweed Coast is an underrated hidden gem in Australia. While Byron Bay draws the crowds, this idyllic pocket of the NSW north coast offers something a little more calm – more peaceful beaches, incredible food and a relaxed authenticity. The highlight stay is Halcyon House, a property which has long been regarded as one of the best hotels in Australia and has been drawing in design-savvy travellers for 10 years. When I first started working in media I remember the design community’s excitement around it. I decided to check in a decade later to see if it still lives up to the hype.

Halcyon House exterior view
This idyllic coastal stay has been drawing in design-savvy travellers for 10 years.

My car pulls up to the blindingly white building nestled in Cabarita Beach, the waves just steps away. The once sleepy seaside town got a serious injection of cool with the opening of Halcyon House in 2015. Sisters Elisha and Siobhan Bickle originally purchased the old Hideaway motel with the intention of turning it into a family beach house, but instead converted it into the now luxury accommodation. It exudes sun-bleached glamour with retro mid-century energy thanks to palm trees, breeze blocks, verandahs and outdoor walkways with elegant archways.

Halcyon House archway and balcony
The family beach house is adorned with graceful archways.
Cabarita Beach
The hotel sits behind Cabarita Beach.

I arrive early and am ushered to the bar area next to the pool to enjoy a welcome drink – a gin and tonic made with the region’s iconic Ink Gin, which turns purple when you add tonic. I sip it a little too enthusiastically before heading up to my room.

My design tastes have never leaned towards maximalism, but when it’s done right, I can’t help but feel in awe. Elisha and Siobhan called upon interior designer Anna Spiro to create a stay that evokes an old beach hotel layered with antiques and art. Spiro’s signature style is layered, colourful and bold, and features a mix of eras and styles. Blues, greens, corals and warm yellows come alive in patterned wallpaper, tiling and upholstered furniture, against lime-washed timber flooring and bright white walls.

Halcyon House living room interior
The eclectic interior design features bold blues, vibrant prints and antiques.
Halcyon House walls with art
Spiro’s signature style is layered, colourful and bold.

There are just 22 uniquely styled rooms and suites, so the property never feels busy, and I notice throughout the stay how calm it is. I’m staying in a Pool King Balcony room, which, as the name suggests, has pool (and partial ocean) views. At 40 square metres it’s spacious and the floor-to-ceiling windows and doors make it feel even larger, flooding the room with natural light. There’s a big balcony with chairs to relax on and take in the sea breeze and views.

By the decade mark, most hotels are starting to show their age. Here, though, that’s not the case. Timeless design choices (even in the bathrooms) and upholstered furniture that can be reinvigorated keep the space feeling fresh.

Pool King Balcony, Halcyon House
Relax in style.
Halcyon House bathroom interior
Patterned tiles elevate the bathrooms.
Halcyon House with a private balcony
Check into the Halcyon House for an elevated coastal stay.
Halcyon House bedroom interior
Stay for the artistic flair.

The only fault I can really find is that there isn’t a chair at the desk – a subtle reminder, perhaps, that you’re here to relax, not work, so I make a beeline for the swimming pool. This delightfully sunny spot is lined with navy blue daybeds and beach umbrellas for lazily lounging between dips and listening to the calming sounds of the wind in the pandanus trees and palms. Morning yoga, spa treatments and a morning cold plunge are also available to wellness enthusiasts. Onsite shop Halcyon Atelier offers a curated selection of high-end designer fashion, accessories and homewares from brands such as Lucy Folk, Cecile Copenhagen and Matteau.

Halcyon House exterior and pool view
Relax on plush daybeds under the palms. (Credit: Kara Roselund)

I have a pre-dinner coconut daiquiri (10/10) before eating at onsite restaurant Paper Daisy – a hatted restaurant that draws guests from well beyond the hotel. On the current menu, designed by Executive Chef Baxter Newstead (ex Noma Australia, Vue de Monde and Michelin-starred Ekstedt in Stockholm), are refined coastal plates with Aussie touches such as lobster, carrot, finger lime and brown butter; seared kangaroo with beetroot, fermented blueberries and saltbush; and strawberry gum lamington, coconut and preserved cherry. As I’ve done with all of my Hotel Addict hotel stays, I pair the delicious bites with a couple of glasses of Chablis.

Full and content, I sink into the comfiest king bed for a peaceful sleep.

Need tips, more detail or itinerary ideas tailored to you? Ask AT.

AI Prompt

bay lobster dish at Paper Daisy restaurant
Bay lobster with carrot and brown butter at the two-hatted Paper Daisy restaurant.
cocktails at Paper Daisy restaurant
The signature cocktails are unmissable.
Spaghetti alle vongole at Paper Daisy restaurant
Dine on seasonal, coastal plates.

In the morning, I head to Cabarita Beach for a calm morning stroll before enjoying breakfast back at Paper Daisy. The seasonal menu offers dishes such as open egg omelette with green onion, cold smoked fish and soured dill cream and macadamia muesli with banana, lemon balm and natural yoghurt – what more could you want from the start of your day?

Halcyon House does a fantastic job of balancing classic Australian coastal stay nostalgia with luxury. While the rooms and restaurant have evolved over the years, what hasn’t changed is that it still feels like a beloved beach house that’s been carefully elevated, in one of Australia’s most overlooked corners.

Details

Address: 21 Cypress Cres, Cabarita Beach NSW 2488

Best for: Design-savvy travellers and honeymoons

Room rate: From $$ per night

Getting there: There are very limited Ubers in this area. Car hire or booking a taxi to the airport is necessary. There are two Audi A1’s available for guest hire and bicycles for hire.

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Rachael Thompson
Rachael Thompson is a freelance travel journalist. With a background in design and travel media, Rachael is dedicated to curating content that is as much informational as it is beautiful. She began her career at Belle magazine, before taking up editorial roles at Homes to Love, Bed Threads and Australian Traveller/International Traveller. When she's not writing, editing or optimising content, Rachael enjoys exploring the city's newest restaurants, bars and hotels. Next on her Aussie travel wish list is Lord Howe Island.
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3 vintage train journeys to step back in time and explore NSW

(Credit: Krista Eppelstun)

From country landscapes to the coast, Vintage Rail Journeys blends the grandeur of the golden age of rail travel with immersive local experiences.

Travelling aboard the historic Southern Aurora train is the ultimate scenic journey through regional NSW. Operated by Vintage Rail Journeys, the former Southern Aurora is a step back in time, from the lovingly restored carriages to the Off Train Experiences that spotlight local history, artisanal crafts and regional producers.

Once the overnight express that ferried passengers between Sydney and Melbourne throughout the 1960s, this train has been revived to its former mid-century glory, from the cabin layouts to the original lettering. Today, the train takes passengers on scenic and historic five-day journeys – starting and ending in Sydney – through three distinct regions of NSW: The Riverina, Golden West and North Coast.

Vintage Rail Journeys Southern Aurora train carriage
Be transported into the golden age of travel. (Credit: Krista Eppelstun)

One of the most magical parts of travelling with Vintage Rail Journeys is waking up on the train. Each night, the train stables at a station so guests can enjoy a restful night’s sleep in stillness, before departing again at dawn. Passengers awake to the gentle motion of the carriage, flicking open the blinds to watch the landscape unfold at sunrise. There is no better way to start the day.

The onboard experience come evening time is just as picturesque. Guests enjoy the all-inclusive food and beverages, nursing cocktails in the Art Deco-inspired lounge carriage or lingering over a three-course dinner in the dining carriage. Outside the window, Eastern grey kangaroos bound across open plains and flocks of cockatoos scatter from the gumtrees. It’s an old-world way of travelling, a slower pace that’s increasingly rare amid the frenzy of modern life. From coastal sojourns to adventures through agrarian landscapes, these are the multi-day Vintage Rail Journeys itineraries transporting guests back in time.

The Riverina

Vintage Rail Journeys Southern Aurora train travelling through nsw
Travel through the agricultural heartland of NSW. (Credit: Krista Eppelstun)

The Riverina is the agricultural heartland of NSW. Over five days, Vintage Rail Journeys takes passengers through the region to experience its celebrated produce, wines and local history. Travelling in a loop through the Central West, guests can sample sweets at the Junee Liquorice & Chocolate Factory, housed inside a former flour mill, tour an olive grove alongside a second-generation olive farmer, and enjoy tastings at family-owned wineries where the grapes are harvested mere metres away.

The Riverina is also a region shaped by passionate local historians. The Fairground Follies museum in Bowral houses one of the world’s largest collections of mechanical music and carnival memorabilia – a riot of colour and nostalgia tucked away where you’d least expect it. Meanwhile, Temora Rural Museum offers a glimpse into the history of everyday life in rural NSW. It’s home to the NSW & ACT Ambulance Museum (yes, a museum within a museum), packed with ambulances that span the past 120 years (including horse-drawn!). And seeing it all aboard a vintage train makes it feel not just like you’re visiting history, but living inside of it.

North Coast

Forest Sky Pier
Take in the views from Forest Sky Pier. (Credit: Destination NSW)

This five-day journey is all about ocean views and slowing down in tune with the rhythm of coastal life. As you make your way north from Sydney, the water is never too far from sight, whether Vintage Rail Journeys is tracing the Gloucester River or travelling alongside sweeping stretches of coastline. You’ll want to sit by a window as the train passes through the Coffs Harbour region – it’s one of the most scenic stretches of the whole journey.

Guests can also disembark at Coffs Harbour to take in the beauty of the Great Dividing Range at the Forest Sky Pier – a surreal lookout point that looks like a runway disappearing into the sky. The train continues onward to Byron Bay, where guests can disembark to explore the iconic beach town at their own pace. And on the return journey to Sydney, keep your eyes peeled for dolphins – they’re known to frequent the Kooragang Wetlands near Newcastle, which guests visit on a lunch cruise on the final day.

Golden West

winery experience in new south wales
Jump off the train for a winery experience. (Credit: Krista Eppelstun)

Travelling through the Golden West by rail is like stepping into a Frederick McCubbin painting – a nod to the golden era of rail travel. This five-day journey evokes the era of Australian Impressionism, passing through some of the country’s most painterly landscapes while tracing a path through history.

Starting in Sydney, the train makes its way to the Hawkesbury River, where the train crosses a historic rail bridge over the bronze, glassy waters below. Guests disembark here to cruise the brackish inlet aboard a historic postal boat before returning to the train to continue into Gold Rush country. Ahead lie grand heritage towns and historic estates, including the 1870s Abercrombie House in Bathurst.

Special event journeys

meal onboard Vintage Rail Journeys Southern Aurora train
Enjoy all-inclusive dining and beverages on the way to special events. (Credit: Krista Eppelstun)

Regional NSW is home to some truly one-of-a-kind events, and Vintage Rail Journeys offers a memorable way to get there. Planning a trip to the Bathurst Repco 1000? Vintage Rail Journeys’ special itinerary combines accommodation, dining and transport into one seamless experience. Guests take the scenic route to Bathurst, where the train becomes a unique home base for the event, complete with transfers, all-inclusive dining and beverages, and three days of reserved grandstand seating before returning to Sydney Central Station.

For something a little more playful, guests can also join fellow Elvis enthusiasts on a special overnight journey to Parkes for the town’s iconic annual Elvis Festival. It’s a vintage rail journey – with a little added rock ‘n’ roll.

Step back into the golden age of rail travel at vintagerailjourneys.com.au.