Wedged between estuary and sea, this quiet coastal town on the far NSW South Coast is an antidote to urban life. Discover the best things to do in Narooma before the crowds catch on. 

As we veer off the Princes Highway into town, tide-shifting blues swell into visibility – deep sapphire in the Wagonga Inlet to glass-clear mouthwash cyan along the shoreline. Pelicans patrol the wharf, seals haul themselves onto rocks to sunbake and surfers pad barefoot across the car park with sandy boards tucked beneath their arms, rain or shine. By afternoon, the decks of returned fishing boats carry the briny scent of the morning’s catch.

Certain places in the world make you kick yourself for not visiting sooner, and Narooma fits this description like a glove. The down-to-earth fishing town in the NSW Eurobodalla region has a way of snapping you out of autopilot mode and into the present.

As Southbound Escapes director Sally Bouckley puts it, “Narooma reminds people how life is supposed to feel. I often tell our guests that we know who the visitors are because they’re the only ones who don’t say good morning when they pass you in the street."

Locals have long attempted to keep this pearl of a destination hushed, but it won’t stay secret for long. Admired for its striking natural beauty, the town is now also carving out a reputation as one of the South Coast’s most exciting emerging food destinations. And as of recently – owing to The Whale, the newly renovated retro-chic motel from hospitality mogul Justin Hemmes – it’s catching the eyes of design lovers, too. 

Between world-class mountain biking, wildlife and oysters fresh enough to convert even the staunchest sceptics, there’s plenty to love in Narooma – but it’s the warm community and humble local businesses that leave the largest impression during my visit. From geological wonders to lip-smackingly good food, keep reading to discover the best things to do in Narooma. 

Where is Narooma?

Narooma is located on the far NSW South Coast, around five hours’ drive from Sydney or three from Canberra. The nearest town is Central Tilba, famed for its heritage village and delicious cheese, with Bateman’s Bay being the closest larger hub. For interstate travellers, the closest airport to Narooma is the regional Moruya Airport (MYA), around a 40-minute drive away. 

A place where life is lived well

Sometimes, the routines of our hectic everyday lives make us feel like we are simply going through the motions. But visiting Narooma for a few days quickly reminds me of what it means to live presently: to breathe fresh air, to experience awe, to cherish connection. The town grabs hold of the simple things in life that have a genuine impact on happiness – a strong sense of community, time spent outdoors, good food, stars above your head and city noise long left behind – and recentres them as priorities.

Southbound Escapes director Sally Bouckley, who works with a number of local tourism operators to help them to become bookable and more visible, captures the sentiment to a tee.

“I watch people arrive carrying the weight of busy lives, constantly checking their phones and thinking about what’s next. A couple of days later, they’re laughing, talking to strangers, watching a sunset instead of a screen and remembering what’s really important. That’s the magic of Narooma." 

It’s a feeling that strikes me time and time again during my visit; when I’m listening to the clink of glasses as couples soak up the dwindling daylight at waterfront restaurant Quarterdeck; when I’m twirling underwater with a group of just-born seal pups; when I’m chatting with a local barista, who knows not just his regulars’ names, but their parents’ and grandparents’ too. I feel more grounded and alive than I have in a long time. 

The best things to do in Narooma  

Meet the resident seal colony 

After its oysters, Narooma is perhaps most famous for its seals – and I can attest they are anything but shy. A seal swim or dive tour off protected Barunguba Montague Island, located a 20-minute boat ride from the town, is a once-in-a-lifetime experience that will see you coming eye-to-eye (and flipper-to-flipper) with these incredibly inquisitive creatures. The island is home to one of Australia’s largest fur seal colonies, as well as thousands of nesting seabirds, dolphins, little penguins and humpback and southern right whales in winter. 

For those who aren’t keen on jumping in the water but still want to witness Narooma’s seals up close from the mainland, you’re in luck; Seal Rocks along the Narooma breakwall has tens of the resident animals who love to sunbake on the rocks. Simply stroll and have your camera at the ready. 

Snap a photo at ancient Australia Rock 

While you’re near the breakwall, make sure to stop by Australia Rock – a dramatic geological structure seemingly forged by the sea gods and bearing an uncanny resemblance to (you guessed it) the shape of our country. It perfectly frames the ocean beyond, making for a unique photo opportunity. Interestingly, the natural rock sculpture is a result of the pressure from the Pacific Plate’s collision with the land; it’s part of the 440-million-year-old Narooma Accretionary Complex and Chevron Folds. 

Try the Wagonga Inlet’s famous oysters 

You haven’t experienced the best of Narooma if you haven’t slurped its briny rock oysters, famed for their distinctive ‘merrior’ – a unique flavour profile imparted by the pristine, nutrient-rich waters of the Wagonga Inlet. Think seafood’s equivalent of wine’s ‘terroir’

Time your visit to coincide with the Narooma Oyster Festival, held every year on the first full weekend in May, for a program jam-packed with spirited events from oyster-shucking competitions to an intimate twilight feast. Or head to the Coxon family’s Oyster Farmer’s Daughter, a favourite local spot right on the inlet waters where the crew’s been farming high-quality Sydney Rock Oysters for more than 40 years. Here you can enjoy the briny gems in a variety of ways, along with other flavourful seafood bites, brews and cocktails. 

I admit I wasn’t the biggest fan of oysters, but Narooma has converted me. While watching the sunset from our terrace at Anchorage Narooma Farm, my partner and I tuck into the dozen oysters – fresh as they come – our host Merri Dudley has kindly left in our fridge. And just like that, I’m hooked! 

Enjoy a waterfront dinner at Quarterdeck 

Whether you’re for or against it, it’s hard to deny that billionaire-backed hospitality giant Merivale has left a large footprint in Narooma – and subsequently lifted the town’s dining-out standards. The group owns two restaurants, a fish and chip shop, caravan park and recently redeveloped The Whale motel. 

One of the most well-loved restaurants in the town, Quarterdeck Narooma is Merivale’s vibey waterfront Mexican that’s perfect for a date night or fun evening out with friends. The setting is undeniably beautiful – located in an ex-oyster grower’s shed right on the inlet waters, it offers breezy open windows, rattan hanging lamps, a thatched-style ceiling and the option to dine en plein air on a jetty. 

I’m impressed by the attentive service that complements the elevated Mexican-leaning fare and inventive Tiki-inspired cocktail menu. The Ola Guava cocktail is perfectly balanced, and food highlights include the satisfyingly crisp prawn dorado with spiced aioli and grilled fish tacos topped with a knockout chilli lime dressing. And whatever you do, please, please, please end with the beignets (little doughnuts with dulce de leche and soft serve); they are truly a sugar addict’s downfall. 

Visit Glasshouse Rocks and Pillow Lava 

Nature lovers, geologists and history buffs will all agree that one of the best things to do in Narooma is to explore the 500-million-year-old Glasshouse Rocks formations at Surf Beach. One of the most photographed rock sites on the Eurobodalla coast, they date back millions of years and hold immense ancient geological significance (as well as being visually stunning!). At the northern end of the beach, you can also visit the display of igneous pillow lava, formed through the lava flow of a submarine volcano. 

To access these sites, walk to Glasshouse Rocks from Surf Beach car park at low tide, or head past the Narooma Cemetery towards the white fence for exceptional headland views. Beware the track isn’t suitable for the elderly or mobility impaired. 

Grab brunch at Kattalina’s On the Marina 

Boasting a charming jetty location at the inlet’s edge, Kattalina’s On the Marina showcases the produce of Australia’s south-east coast with warm, welcoming service. On sunny days, sit outside on the deck beneath a cutesy striped umbrella and sip a cappuccino and warm raspberry friand while the salty air cures your soul. It’s a top spot for switching off and enjoying flavour-rich classics done differently – from ciabatta bacon and egg rolls with Rapley & Son’s smoky bacon to gochujang chicken toasties with wombok slaw. 

Mountain biking  

Home to just under 100 kilometres of world-class, purpose-built mountain bike trails, Narooma is the place to be for outdoor adventure lovers. Southbound Escapes offers dual suspension MTB hire and a top-notch shuttle service whose drivers have plenty of local knowledge to share. For a more social option, jump on the Party Train, where you’ll ride some of Narooma and Mogo’s best MTB trails before ending the day sharing beers, food and music with your fellow riders at a local venue. 

Stroll the scenic Mill Bay Boardwalk 

Stretching 350 metres from Apex Park, Mill Bay Boardwalk is the perfect place to enjoy Narooma’s natural beauty on a relaxed walk or bike ride (you can hire bikes and e-bikes from Southbound Escapes). From the walkway, spot stingrays, fish and pelicans, and wander past mangroves as well as quaint seafood eateries. Flat and wheelchair-accessible, the boardwalk allows everyone to join in the fun.  

Visit Breakwall Brewing Co. 

I’m thankful to Narooma for many reasons, but perhaps among the most important is that it led me to discover my new favourite beer – Session Hazy by independent Australian craft brewery Breakwall Brewing Co. Stocked by all the local restaurants, it’s a crisp, mid-strength ale with mango and citrus notes that we find all too easy to drink again and again during our long weekend here.

While you can certainly sip the brewery’s goods from afar, why not enjoy its full lineup of ales straight from the source? Visit the brewery’s onsite taproom to discover the brewing process up close, or – for non-beer drinkers – savour a wine, cocktail or glass of bubbles. With trivia Thursdays, open mic and live music every Saturday, it’s the perfect place to stop in after a day out fishing or long weekend camping with friends. 

Swim, surf and snorkel at nearby beaches 

One of the best things to do in Narooma is to explore its pristine waters, and there’s certainly no shortage of beaches within a 10-minute drive of the town to help you tick that box. For family-friendly surf breaks and snorkelling right by the heart of Narooma, try Bar Beach South. For scenic unpatrolled coast with shaded picnic areas, opt for Handkerchief Beach. And for hidden rockpools and sparkling turquoise waters, head to Billy’s Beach and nearby Mystery Bay. 

Tee off at the Narooma Golf Club 

Narooma continues to draw the golfing crowd with its famous course perched clifftop overlooking a breathtaking coastal setting. Relish the challenge of varying conditions, from the ocean to the forest, before finishing the day with a beer at the Seahorse Brasserie & Cafe. 

Stop by Tilba Dairy 

I’m not exaggerating when I say I tasted the best halloumi of my life while in Narooma, and it comes from Tilba Dairy. Cheese lovers will adore visiting this local institution in Central Tilba, just a 15-minute drive south of Narooma. There’s a cheese shop you can visit right next to the factory, fully stocked with cheese products of incredible quality you won’t find in big cities, big-hit milkshakes and ice creams – all produced with dairy from the Jersey cows that live in the green pastures of Tilba. 

Narooma Rotary Markets 

If you find yourself in Narooma on the fourth Sunday of the month, Narooma Rotary Markets is where the town’s creativity shines. Held at NATA Oval, the monthly event brings together local food, arts and crafts – with everything from baked goods, spices and local distillers to wearable goods up for grabs. 

Bingi Dreaming Track with Yuin Elder 

While technically not in Narooma itself, if you’re driving north on your way to or from Narooma, the beautiful Eurobodalla National Park (around 40 minutes’ drive) is an unforgettable pitstop. We join respected Brinja-Yuin Elder and knowledge holder Patricia Ellis, of Minga Aboriginal Cultural Services, and her granddaughter Emily Foran for a guided walk along the coastal Bingi Dreaming Track. We trace an ancient Brinja-Yuin songline as the pair thoughtfully share Aboriginal stories from the region and knowledge of the local flora. 

“This is my Country," Patricia begins. “And when I say ‘my Country’, I don’t mean I own it, but I belong here. And that’s a really big difference." 

The preface sets the tone for the entire walk, allowing us to appreciate the area’s natural beauty from a new perspective. We wind through a grove of she-oak – which settlers saw as an inferior wood – and learn about the plant’s multitude of uses that range from dehydration preventors to shelter. Patricia also shows us natural fish traps, bush medicines and ancient artefacts, and demonstrates weaving fishing line; she can produce an impressive four metres per hour. 

Visit the Great Gatsby-esque Narooma Kinema 

Looking for things to do in Narooma on a rainy day? Make a beeline for the much-loved Narooma Kinema. This brightly coloured 1920s building promises a venerable art deco atmosphere, and screens both mainstream and arthouse films, along with hosting live events. Grab your popcorn and locally sourced snacks and step back in time. 

Kayak Narooma’s serene waters 

Hire a kayak or canoe and get out on the water to explore the crystal-clear Wagonga Inlet. You’ll pass extensive working oyster farms, a historic cemetery and marine life, all backdropped by charming town or forest views. Set off from the Old Punt boat ramp on the south side of Narooma Bridge, or from the foreshore park along Riverside Drive. 

Enjoy a pub feed at one of Narooma’s cosy venues 

Aussie country pubs are found aplenty in Narooma, and Lynch’s is one of the best. The Merivale venue has an old-school pub and separate bistro area where we gorge on moreish prawn and sesame toast, and fish and leek pie made with locally caught swordfish and a crispy potato top. For million-dollar water views, woodfired pizzas and a lively weekend atmosphere, Narooma Hotel is the place to go. 

Soak in the views at Bar Rock Lookout 

Accessible by foot or car, Bar Rock Lookout promises panoramic vistas over Narooma’s breakwall and sapphire-blue coast beyond. Spot fishing boats bringing in the day’s catch (and don’t be surprised if it appears on the plates of local restaurants the same day or next), migrating whales during the wintertime and families splashing in the shallows below. 

Leaving with lessons

I came to Narooma looking for a memorable coastal getaway, but left with far more. If you’ve ever visited, you’ll understand why people here seem in less of a hurry. Perhaps Narooma hasn’t discovered some secret formula for happiness – it simply makes space for the things that busy lives often squeeze out.