Australia’s most interactive underwater playdate is hiding just 20 minutes off the NSW South Coast. Meet the hyper-curious seals of Barunguba Montague Island.
Two enormous, glossy eyes appear out of the blue.
For a moment, we study each other with mutual inquisivity, barely an arm’s length between us. Then, with a flick of its flippers, the seal pup rockets off into the gin-clear water, leaving a trail of bubbles in its wake.
Seconds later, he’s back. And he’s brought friends. Soon I’m caught in a whirlwind of sleek, whiskered bodies that twist, dart and loop around me with acrobatic grace, seemingly competing to see who can get closest to the awkward human in a wetsuit.
Snorkelling with seals in Narooma is a unique experience. (Credit: Destination NSW/Guy Williment)
This isn’t some far-flung wildlife encounter in the Galápagos Islands. It’s happening just nine kilometres (or 20 minutes by boat) off the town of Narooma on the far NSW South Coast.
Guided by the knowledgeable Underwater Safaris team, we’re snorkelling with seals at Barunguba Montague Island. The 1.4-kilometre-long nature reserve harbours an exceptional collection of wildlife, thanks to its unique proximity to the continental shelf and warm Eastern Australian Current. Notably, it’s home to two thriving colonies of Australian and New Zealand fur seals (including the only confirmed fur seal breeding colony in NSW), Australia’s largest little penguin breeding colony, more than 90 bird species, migrating humpback and Southern right whales in winter, dolphins and stingrays who relish the glassy visibility and sheltered kelp forests.
The seal pups are as curious of you as you are of them. (Credit: Eleanor Edström)
Hop on a guided snorkel tour with Underwater Safaris. (Credit: Destination NSW)
Witness seals in the water and on the rocks. (Credit: Destination NSW/Ben Kelly)
But it’s not just the numbers that make this place special – it’s the creatures’ charisma. You see, the fur seals of Barunguba Montague Island don’t just tolerate humans; they actively choose to interact.
“When you snorkel almost anywhere else in the world, the animals swim away from you," says Underwater Safaris owner Francois Van Zyl, who has been diving in Narooma for more than 15 years. “Here, it’s the opposite. We don’t touch them, but they swim right up to you. It’s pretty special."
Special might be underselling it.
Barunguba Montague Island is home to the only confirmed fur seal breeding colony in NSW. (Credit: Destination NSW)
Before we jump into the water, dive master and guide Odette Boland gives us a safety briefing and rundown of what to expect. “Thirty to forty seal pups have just been born – they’re around four months old and have only been in the water for a month or two."
One cheeky pup somersaults directly in front of my mask. Another glides past so close I can see every whisker. When we move to a second snorkel spot in deeper water, adult seals – more than I can count – chase each other in circles beneath us. The whole experience feels like being invited to the world’s most extraordinary underwater party.
POV: you're suddenly surrounded by the cutest underwater welcome committee. Just 20 minutes off the NSW South Coast, you can snorkel alongside the playful fur seals of Barunguba Montague Island – and the best part? They're just as curious about you as you are about them!
Underwater Safaris is a family-owned tour business that operates eco-conscious snorkel and scuba diving tours year-round, except in winter, when they offer whale watching experiences. Raised in Cape Town and passionate about the ocean for as long as he can remember, Francois runs the company with his wife and two sons, who help skipper the charters.
Swimming with seals is a pure endorphin hit. (Credit: Getty/Philip Thurston)
Francois previously worked for NSW National Parks and Wildlife Service for more than seven years and has even lived on the island with his family, so he knows the land, surrounding sea and wildlife like the back of his hand. And while the island’s remarkable marine environment is part of his everyday life, he loves seeing the joy it brings visitors.
“The snorkel is truly a once-in-a-lifetime experience. We get people from all around the world – some people who’ve never been in the ocean – and even take people out who can’t swim [floating noodles are supplied and waters are shallow]," affirms Odette. “No day is the same out there. It’s this insane experience that most people will never get to do again."
In the cooler months of the year, Barunguba Montague Island harbours more than 1000 fur seals – but most operators don’t run snorkel tours during this season due to the cold. In spring and summer, there are still plenty of the adorable creatures hanging about – between 200 and 800. Owing to its exceptional visibility of ten to forty metres, the island is one of the country’s premier diving destinations.
Barunguba Montague Island is rich in marine life. (Credit: Destination NSW/Tom Park)
Over the years, Underwater Safaris has worked with many local and national organisations for conservation and research purposes, including ORRCA, Sydney Institute of Marine Science and universities that send PhD students to the island. The company also runs educational Squid Squad snorkelling tours for kids and school groups, intent on preserving Narooma’s delicate marine ecosystems for years to come.
Beyond its wildlife, Barunguba Montague Island – which officially received a dual Aboriginal name from the NSW government in 2021 – has long held immense cultural significance to the Indigenous Yuin people. The Yuin people once travelled to the island on bark canoes for traditional ceremonies and food, as well as for men’s teaching. Today, public visitors can only access the island via authorised tours.
When it’s time to clamber back on the boat, unzip my wetsuit and head back to Narooma, I can’t wipe the grin off my face. Never have I experienced such an intimate and interactive wildlife encounter where the animals engage on their own terms. I’m certain this won’t be my last visit.
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Where is Narooma?
Narooma is tucked along the far NSW South Coast. (Credit: Destination NSW)
Narooma is a coastal town on the far NSW South Coast, around an hour south of Batemans Bay. By car, it takes five hours to reach from Sydney or three from Canberra.
Can you swim with seals in Narooma?
Absolutely! There are several tour operators in Narooma that run snorkel and scuba dive tours to Barunguba Montague Island, departing from Apex Park Boat Ramp in Narooma. Tours typically last half a day and include snorkel gear, wetsuits, in-water guides and boat access to the island. Beginner snorkellers are welcome. A three-hour snorkel with Underwater Safaris costs $175 per adult or $155 per child (15 and under).
Can you see seals in Narooma without snorkelling?
If snorkelling isn’t your thing, you’re in luck – visitors can also witness seals in Narooma from Seal Rocks, located along the breakwall where the Wagonga Inlet connects with the ocean. Here you’ll find plentiful adult seals sunbathing on the rocks and floating blissfully in the shallows just metres away.
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How long does it take to get to Montague Island from Narooma?
Reaching the island from Narooma takes around 20 minutes by boat. Members of the public are only permitted to visit the island by booking an organised tour through authorised companies such as Underwater Safaris.
When can you see seals in Narooma?
Seals are found year-round at Narooma’s Seal Rocks breakwall, as well as offshore on Barunguba Montague Island.
How many seals are on Montague Island?
Barunguba Montague Island is home to more than 1000 fur seals in the cooler months of the year, and between 200 and 800 in the summer months.
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Eleanor Edström is Australian Traveller’s Associate Editor. Previously a staff writer at Signature Luxury Travel & Style and Vacations & Travel magazines, she's a curious wordsmith with a penchant for conservation, adventure, the arts and design. She discovered her knack for storytelling much earlier, however – penning mermaid sagas in glitter ink at age seven. Proof that her spelling has since improved, she holds an honours degree in English and philosophy, and a French diploma from the University of Sydney. Off duty, you’ll find her pirouetting between Pilates and ballet classes, or hunting down Sydney's cosiest cafes.
Thredbo in summer is a nature lover’s dream of show-stopping alpine beauty, cool mountain air and magical moonlit adventure.
For many of us, Thredbo calls to mind shimmering slopes and snow-dusted gums, but come summer, this Alpine resort transforms into a playground of an entirely different kind. A cool mountain retreat despite the season, Thredbo summer hikes are astonishingly beautiful, criss-crossing over dramatic peaks, pristine glacial lakes and abundant flora and fauna.
From approachable tracks for novice walkers to more challenging hikes across the Main Range and even journeys under moonlight, Thredbo puts on an unforgettable show of natural splendour all summer. Lace up your walking boots and take the chairlift from Thredbo village to embark on a self-guided exploration or a tour of the Snowy Mountains’ most compelling landscapes.
These eight unforgettable hiking experiences are only available in summer and offer an alpine adventure like you’ve never experienced before.
1. Full Moon Hike to Mt Kosciuszko
Stand atop Mt Kosciuszko at full moon.
There’s something almost mystical about hiking by the light of a full moon. This guided experience begins with a 15-minute chairlift ride, where you’ll admire the Thredbo Valley below, bathed in the fading sun.
Once at the top, you’ll pass rivers, alpine lakes and spot nocturnal wildlife on your way to the Kosciuszko Lookout and Lake Cootapatamba. By the time you reach the summit, sunset is well underway as you watch day give way to night and the alpine landscape magically illuminated by the lunar glow. Enjoy a hot chocolate here before following the path back to Eagles Nest, brightened by the night sky.
The only thing that could level up the celestial beauty of a full moon hike would be a super full moon hike. Following the same route, you’ll meet the moon when it is largest and closest to Earth by ascending to the summit of Mount Kosciuszko at an elevation of 2228 metres. From such a height, it almost feels as though you could reach out and touch its glowing surface.
Given the rarity and splendour of the super full moon, limited spots fill up fast for this awe-inspiring hike, so be sure to book the 5 December in advance.
3. Lunar Eclipse Hike
See dazzling celestial displays.
What could be more extraordinary than witnessing a lunar eclipse from Australia’s highest peak? Whether you’re a keen astronomer or simply revel in nature’s beauty, this guided 13-kilometre hike will place you on top of Mount Kosciuszko just as Earth passes between the sun and moon, throwing shade over the lunar surface before transforming it with a deep-red hue.
It’s an epic place to witness one of our galaxy’s most spectacular and rare light shows. Apart from the dazzling celestial display, you’ll also enjoy walking through the moon-bathed landscape, an evening chairlift ride, and a hot chocolate at the summit.
Book now for 3 March.
4. New Moon Hike
Catch the changing skies of a new moon.
A stargazer’s delight, the darkness of a new moon gives the Milky Way full permission to dazzle with its shimmering display. Both astronomers and photographers will relish this opportunity to observe and capture the starry skyscape from the lofty height of Australia’s highest peak, Mount Kosciuszko. Departing Thredbo Village at dusk and leaving its twinkling lights far below, you’ll arrive at the summit in time to see the sun slip away and the stars appear.
Embark on a gentle entry into the Snowy Mountain scenery with an amble along the Thredbo River. This self-guided hike hugs the river and wanders along the valley floor, revealing snow gum forests, swimming holes and little waterfalls that make for revitalising cold plunges in the summer heat.
6. Merritts Nature Track
Stop at swimming holes along the way.
On warm summer days, venturing into the cooler air of Thredbo’s alpine tracks offers relief from the heat. Particularly if you set course for the four-kilometre Merritts Nature Track, where there are opportunities to take a refreshing dip in swimming holes along the way.
The two-to-three-hour self-guided hike meanders through towering ancient trees (dubbed the ‘Pixie Forest’ by locals), takes in stunning mountain vistas and is soundtracked by the melody of birdsong. Stop for a picnic and discover a hidden natural infinity pool, the location of which is given away by the roar of a cascading waterfall.
7. Mt Kosciuszko Summit Tour
Follow a guide along Mt Kosciuszko’s summit.
While you can easily steer yourself to Australia’s most iconic peak without a guide, following an expert guide to the summit of Mount Kosciuszko will colour your experience with a deeper knowledge of the landscape and its wild inhabitants. The 13-kilometre return trail puts the alpine scenery on display with 360-degree views from the highest spot in the country.
The walk begins at the top of the Kosciuszko Chairlift and takes around four to six hours to complete, but is gentle enough to be embarked upon by all ages.
8. Snowies Alpine Walk Experience
Join a two- or three-day experience along Snowies Alpine Walk.
If you’re looking to truly untether from daily life and embark on a real immersion in Thredbo’s stunning alpine scenery, pack your hiking boots for the newest multi-day walk in the mountains. The Snowies Alpine Walk can be tackled over two or three days and includes nightly accommodation in the iconic Thredbo Alpine Hotel, daily buffet breakfast, packed lunch and dinner vouchers, plus daily transfers to and from trail heads in a brand-new Defender.
The two-day experience covers 24 kilometres, while the three-day experience almost doubles that at 44 kilometres. Along the way, explore barely trod landscapes, vast high-country plains and uplifting mountain horizons.
