Australia’s most interactive underwater playdate is hiding just 20 minutes off the NSW South Coast. Meet the hyper-curious seals of Barunguba Montague Island.
Two enormous, glossy eyes appear out of the blue.
For a moment, we study each other with mutual inquisivity, barely an arm’s length between us. Then, with a flick of its flippers, the seal pup rockets off into the gin-clear water, leaving a trail of bubbles in its wake.
Seconds later, he’s back. And he’s brought friends. Soon I’m caught in a whirlwind of sleek, whiskered bodies that twist, dart and loop around me with acrobatic grace, seemingly competing to see who can get closest to the awkward human in a wetsuit.
Snorkelling with seals in Narooma is a unique experience. (Credit: Destination NSW/Guy Williment)
This isn’t some far-flung wildlife encounter in the Galápagos Islands. It’s happening just nine kilometres (or 20 minutes by boat) off the town of Narooma on the far NSW South Coast.
Guided by the knowledgeable Underwater Safaris team, we’re snorkelling with seals at Barunguba Montague Island. The 1.4-kilometre-long nature reserve harbours an exceptional collection of wildlife, thanks to its unique proximity to the continental shelf and warm Eastern Australian Current. Notably, it’s home to two thriving colonies of Australian and New Zealand fur seals (including the only confirmed fur seal breeding colony in NSW), Australia’s largest little penguin breeding colony, more than 90 bird species, migrating humpback and Southern right whales in winter, dolphins and stingrays who relish the glassy visibility and sheltered kelp forests.
The pups are as curious of you as you are of them. (Credit: Eleanor Edström)
Hop on a guided snorkel tour with Underwater Safaris. (Credit: Destination NSW)
Witness seals in the water and on the rocks. (Credit: Destination NSW/Ben Kelly)
But it’s not just the numbers that make this place special – it’s the creatures’ charisma. You see, the fur seals of Barunguba Montague Island don’t just tolerate humans; they actively choose to interact.
“When you snorkel almost anywhere else in the world, the animals swim away from you," says Underwater Safaris owner Francois Van Zyl, who has been diving in Narooma for more than 15 years. “Here, it’s the opposite. We don’t touch them, but they swim right up to you. It’s pretty special."
Special might be underselling it.
Barunguba Montague Island is home to the only confirmed fur seal breeding colony in NSW. (Credit: Destination NSW)
Before we jump into the water, dive master and guide Odette Boland gives us a safety briefing and rundown of what to expect. “Thirty to forty seal pups have just been born – they’re around four months old and have only been in the water for a month or two."
One cheeky pup somersaults directly in front of my mask. Another glides past so close I can see every whisker. When we move to a second snorkel spot in deeper water, adult seals – more than I can count – chase each other in circles beneath us. The whole experience feels like being invited to the world’s most extraordinary underwater party.
Underwater Safaris is a family-owned tour business that operates eco-conscious snorkel and scuba diving tours year-round, except in winter, when they offer whale watching experiences. Raised in Cape Town and passionate about the ocean for as long as he can remember, Francois runs the company with his wife and two sons, who help skipper the charters.
Swimming with seals is a pure endorphin hit. (Credit: Getty/Philip Thurston)
Francois previously worked for NSW National Parks and Wildlife Service for more than seven years and has even lived on the island with his family, so he knows the land, surrounding sea and wildlife like the back of his hand. And while the island’s remarkable marine environment is part of his everyday life, he loves seeing the joy it brings visitors.
“The snorkel is truly a once-in-a-lifetime experience. We get people from all around the world – some people who’ve never been in the ocean – and even take people out who can’t swim [floating noodles are supplied and waters are shallow]," affirms Odette. “No day is the same out there. It’s this insane experience that most people will never get to do again."
In the cooler months of the year, Barunguba Montague Island harbours more than 1000 fur seals – but most operators don’t run snorkel tours during this season due to the cold. In spring and summer, there are still plenty of the adorable creatures hanging about – between 200 and 800. Owing to its exceptional visibility of ten to forty metres, the island is one of the country’s premier diving destinations.
Barunguba Montague Island is rich in marine life. (Credit: Destination NSW/Tom Park)
Over the years, Underwater Safaris has worked with many local and national organisations for conservation and research purposes, including ORRCA, Sydney Institute of Marine Science and universities that send PhD students to the island. The company also runs educational Squid Squad snorkelling tours for kids and school groups, intent on preserving Narooma’s delicate marine ecosystems for years to come.
Beyond its wildlife, Barunguba Montague Island – which officially received a dual Aboriginal name from the NSW government in 2021 – has long held immense cultural significance to the Indigenous Yuin people. The Yuin people once travelled to the island on bark canoes for traditional ceremonies and food, as well as for men’s teaching. Today, public visitors can only access the island via authorised tours.
When it’s time to clamber back on the boat, unzip my wetsuit and head back to Narooma, I can’t wipe the grin off my face. Never have I experienced such an intimate and interactive wildlife encounter where the animals engage on their own terms. I’m certain this won’t be my last visit.
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Where is Narooma?
Narooma is tucked along the far NSW South Coast. (Credit: Destination NSW)
Narooma is a coastal town on the far NSW South Coast, around an hour south of Batemans Bay. By car, it takes five hours to reach from Sydney or three from Canberra.
Can you swim with seals in Narooma?
Absolutely! There are several tour operators in Narooma that run snorkel and scuba dive tours to Barunguba Montague Island, departing from Apex Park Boat Ramp in Narooma. Tours typically last half a day and include snorkel gear, wetsuits, in-water guides and boat access to the island. Beginner snorkellers are welcome. A three-hour snorkel with Underwater Safaris costs $175 per adult or $155 per child (15 and under).
Can you see seals in Narooma without snorkelling?
If snorkelling isn’t your thing, you’re in luck – visitors can also witness seals in Narooma from Seal Rocks, located along the breakwall where the Wagonga Inlet connects with the ocean. Here you’ll find plentiful adult seals sunbathing on the rocks and floating blissfully in the shallows just metres away.
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How long does it take to get to Montague Island from Narooma?
Reaching the island from Narooma takes around 20 minutes by boat. Members of the public are only permitted to visit the island by booking an organised tour through authorised companies such as Underwater Safaris.
When can you see seals in Narooma?
Seals are found year-round at Narooma’s Seal Rocks breakwall, as well as offshore on Barunguba Montague Island.
How many seals are on Montague Island?
Barunguba Montague Island is home to more than 1000 fur seals in the cooler months of the year, and between 200 and 800 in the summer months.
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Eleanor Edström is Australian Traveller’s Associate Editor. Previously a staff writer at Signature Luxury Travel & Style and Vacations & Travel magazines, she's a curious wordsmith with a penchant for conservation, adventure, the arts and design. She discovered her knack for storytelling much earlier, however – penning mermaid sagas in glitter ink at age seven. Proof that her spelling has since improved, she holds an honours degree in English and philosophy, and a French diploma from the University of Sydney. Off duty, you’ll find her pirouetting between Pilates and ballet classes, or testing her friends’ patience with increasingly obscure vocabulary.
The Southern Highlands earns its title as Australia’s top country town in the cooler months, and it’s worth every minute of the 90-minute drive from Sydney.
Many Sydneysiders head to the Southern Highlands in spring for the tulips. It’s one of the most stunning spring carnivals in Australia. But the ones in the know come to Bowral in winter.
The first thing you notice at this time of year is the quality of the light. It catches the tangled limbs of the gums and tints the fields, farms and forests a pretty shade of Granny Smith green. And then, a world-class art museum, an impressive network of walking trails, great shops, cosy restaurants and bars and luxury accommodation take centre stage, making Bowral a place you want to linger as the mercury drops.
Just 90 minutes south of Sydney, a Bowral winter getaway is the coolcation city folk desperately need. Here are eight reasons to pack a good coat and head for the Southern Highlands.
1. Check in
Check in to the gorgeous Ardour Milton Park Bowral. (Credit: Destination NSW)
Ardour Milton Park Bowral rises like a hologram in the hazy green light as you turn onto Horderns Road. A $10 million refurbishment of the grand 1910 estate was completed in early 2026, and the beautifully restored hotel now includes 44 guest rooms washed in sage green, cobalt blue and dusty blush. The dining room at Horderns Restaurant continues with a botanical theme – earthy banquettes, floral touches throughout – and a menu that moves with the seasons.
After enjoying slow-braised Cowra lamb and a second glass of red, move to the Polo Bar, which has a fireplace and views across the estate gardens. Build a grazing board from the dedicated Charcuterie Room and take it outside while the light lasts. If the sky clouds over, use this as your cue to enjoy a next-level spa experience at Èliva.
2. Hunt for treasure
Find vintage treasures in Dirty Janes. (Credit: Destination NSW)
Winter is the perfect season to lose an afternoon inside Dirty Janes Bowral. Over 1600 square metres of covered space houses 90 individual sellers of everything from mid-century furniture to industrial lighting, antique silverware, vintage clothing and objects whose previous lives you can only imagine. Enjoy a bit of off-the-cuff banter with your fellow fossickers in between searching for that must-have military jacket or vintage silk scarf.
Around the corner, find the Instagram-famous front door of FoundAntiques, though the real finds are deeper inside. Bring cash, wear comfortable shoes and leave some room in the boot.
3. Slow down in a beautiful gallery
Learn about an Aussie legend at The Bradman Museum. (Credit: Destination NSW)
Ngununggula – meaning ’belonging’ in the language of the Gundungurra First Nations people – is the region’s first dedicated regional gallery, housed inside the sustainably transformed old dairy building at historic Retford Park. The onsite White Cottage Gallery and restored grounds of the former Fairfax estate reward a slow wander. Find a spot to sit in the courtyard filled with rivulets of winter light and enjoy the plaintive call of a currawong carrying across the heritage-listed grounds. It’s one of the best things to do in Bowral.
Add Bowral Honey Farm for a hands-on harvest experience, then continue into town to the Milk Factory Gallery to admire eclectic works by local artists in a converted industrial space. The Bradman Museum also knocks it out of the park. Australia’s largest dedicated cricket museum sits beside the heritage-listed Bradman Oval, where a young Sir Donald Bradman first picked up a bat.
4. A taste of France
Enjoy a taste of France at Lucette.
For a taste of France without the airfare, husband-and-wife team Julien and Romy Besnard – of long-loved Franquette Crêperie – have opened Lucette, a French cafe-bistro with Paris-born chef Guillaume Dubois at the helm. Dubois brings serious pedigree from Michelin-starred kitchens in France and Sydney’s former two-hatted Monopole, and it shows. Start your day with pastries for breakfast and bookend it with boeuf bourguignon for dinner. The chocolate mousse, freckled with Guerande Salt, is the kind of dish that will make you feel smug about the decision to drive south. Join the Sydneysiders dressed in charcoal coats, boots and black tights who’ve already worked this out; the whole scene is worthy of splicing it into an Instagram reel.
Francophiles should also be across Julien’s Bowral Brasserie – led by Frenchman Julien Viel, who also found his way to the Southern Highlands and stayed.
5. Indulge in a tipple
Spend time amongst the local vines. (Credit: Destination NSW)
The drive to Centennial Vineyards passes through a beautiful woodland idyll, the countryside a fuzz of green all around. Inside the Barrel Room, a tasting flight of cool-climate pinot noir, chardonnay and reserve shiraz viognier flaunts how well the Southern Highlands does winter.
This is a region that takes its cool-climate wines seriously, and the pinot noir is one of the stars – a gentle, easy-drinking style with red cherry aromas. Follow your tutored cellar door tasting with another glass of wine in the Terrace Bar, which overlooks the vineyard and manicured grounds.
6. Blend your own gin
Pop into Millsheds Distillery & Bar. (Credit: Mattia Panunzio)
Millsheds Distillery & Bar is somewhat of a local secret. The award-winning small-batch operation produces gin, vodka and liqueurs using Australian botanicals and has picked up silver medals at both the London Spirits Competition and International Wine & Spirit Competition. Beyond the tasting paddle, the hands-on blending masterclass – where you design and leave with two bottles of your own custom gin – is the experience to book, while the terrace bar that wraps around the courtyard is a fine place to settle in afterwards.
7. Go for a walk at dawn
Switch your phone off sleep mode and set your alarm to early. Mt Gibraltar rises to 864 metres just east of Bowral’s main street and offers the best views in town. You will pass a raggle-taggle bunch of hikers on the way up to the summit, all making the same quiet pilgrimage into the crisp high-altitude air. On a clear morning, the bony ridges of the ranges come into sharp relief against the light. The return loop takes roughly 90 minutes. A flat white in Bowral tastes considerably better after completing one of the scenic walking trails.
8. Cosy up by the fireplace
Get cosy in the Berida Hotel’s whiskey bar.
A cosy bar is the perfect complement to winter in Bowral, and there are a few worth committing to. Aspinalls Whisky Bar & Lounge at the Berida Hotel is built for long, languorous evenings. Take a seat beside the fireplace laden with gnarled logs and work your way through a few whiskies and bar bites like Rangers Valley beef tartare, or salt cod and potato croquettes.
At Hickory’s within Peppers Craigieburn, well-dressed waiters in denim and leather move quietly between tables, and the cosy fireplace in the adjoining guest lounge attracts an Escape to the Country crowd.