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This quiet corner of coastal NSW is the perfect place to press pause

Credit: Taylah Darnell

How a weekend in the Shoalhaven taught me the art of doing less.

I wake early on Sunday, as I always do. I had hardwired my circadian rhythm long ago; my weekday alarm clock perpetually set to 6:15am. But instead of tossing back the duvet and climbing out of bed, I roll over to face the sliding glass doors of my Oceanside Balcony Suite.

Motel Molly in Mollymook, NSW
Wake up to sunlight drifting through the curtains at Motel Molly. (Credit: Elise Hassey)

It’s my second morning waking up at Motel Molly, a breezy boutique hotel less than 200 metres from the pine-lined shores of Mollymook Beach. I watch as streams of soft golden light pool in dappled patches on the bedspread. My body feels light, my mind quiet; my only pressing thought being the coffee I’m craving from the cafe down the street.

It’s not a feeling I’m used to. After calling Sydney home for more than a decade, I’d grown accustomed to the relentless pace of city living; working a nine-to-five and squeezing social plans, self-care and life admin into the gaps around it. But after just two days in the Shoalhaven region on NSW’s South Coast, I’m starting to remember what it feels like to slow down.

Arrive and unwind

I feel my shoulders begin to soften as soon as my partner veers off the Princes Highway. As if by the flick of a switch, bumper stickers are replaced with rolling paddocks, gum trees and weatherboard homes peeling with sun-bleached paint.

Milton hinterland on the South Coast of NSW
Turn inland at Milton for rolling paddocks of lush green grass. (Credit: Taylah Darnell)

Wafts of eucalyptus and freshly mown grass mix with the unmistakable scent of sea salt, creating a distinctly Australian perfume that always feels like coming home.

It’s a strange sensation, considering I’ve just driven three hours from Sydney. But it’s also oddly comforting, like seeing an old friend after years apart and realising nothing has changed.

Keen to stretch our legs, we decide to find a spot to stop for lunch ahead of our hotel check-in. A quick search of Google Maps and we’re heading towards the nearest cafe.

Housed in a 19th-century converted cheese factory on sprawling farmland, Milkhaus is just 10 minutes outside of Milton in the heart of NSW’s South Coast. Its rotating menu is guided by the seasons, rooted in a paddock-to-plate philosophy that champions local produce.

Milkhaus in Milton, NSW
Stop by Milkhaus for delicious meals made with fresh seasonal produce. (Credit: Mikhail Zenon)

Our meals arrive fast – pulled pork and apple slaw for my partner, a hearty autumn vegetable galette for me – and we devour them even faster. Takeaway coffees in hand, we opt for a wander around the rest of the property to help our food settle.

I’m strolling among rows of vegetables in the kitchen garden when it happens once more, and again when we arrive at Motel Molly later that afternoon. An almost imperceptible softening, like someone is turning the volume down in my mind.

Motel Molly in Mollymook, NSW
Motel Molly eases guests into slow coastal living. (Credit: Elise Hassey)

It’s the kind of change that’s easy to miss. But after unpacking my bag and stepping onto the balcony, it’s the crash of waves from Mollymook Beach I hear, not the constant chatter in my head. It’s the fading of an autumn sunset I watch, instead of the glowing screen of my phone. It’s the start of a quiet unravelling back towards myself.

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Nourish body and mind

If the Shoalhaven’s slower pace invites you in, its wellness experiences encourage you to stay. But there’s no pressure to emerge on the other side a new person. Rather than promising a dramatic transformation, it’s a refreshingly grounded approach to wellness travel that simply asks you to slow down and be present.

Mollymook Beach, NSW
The Shoalhaven region simply invites visitors to slow down. (Credit: Taylah Darnell)

Unfortunately, stillness has never quite come naturally to me, and old habits die hard. Yet as we arrive at The Heal Zone in Milton, I’m determined to surrender to the process. And if anyone can help me, it’s co-owner Nic Laidlaw.

Together with his partner Madi, Nic has built a space designed to help people reconnect with themselves. He walks us through a quick stretch and breathwork lesson before showing us around the rest of the studio, which we’ll have to ourselves for the next hour.

As soon as Nic closes the door behind him, my partner catches my eye. It’s a knowing look, the kind that says ‘you’re not getting out of this.’ Suddenly, I deeply regret telling him I’d never done a cold plunge before. With countless sessions under his belt, he’s determined to get me in.

The Heal Zone, Milton
Dip into an ice bath before enjoying The Heal Zone's infrared sauna. (Credit: Taylah Darnell)
The Heal Zone in Milton
The writer braves her first cold plunge while her practiced partner watches on. (Credit: Taylah Darnell)

The shock lasts only moments, but the sense of accomplishment I feel lingers long after I get out. Somewhere between the initial gasp and the warmth of the sauna that follows, I realise I’d been more afraid of the anticipation than the water itself.

The hardest part, it turns out, isn’t the cold. It’s deciding to feel the fear and do it anyway. Stepping into the icy water wasn’t nearly as difficult as convincing myself I could. And by the time I climb out, shivering and euphoric, I realise I’m capable of more than I give myself credit for.

Food at the Treehouse Cafe in Ulladulla, NSW
Dive into dishes that nourish the soul at local favourites like the Treehouse Cafe. (Credit: Taylah Darnell)

This quiet sense of achievement stays with me for the rest of the weekend. While restorative massages soothe my tired muscles and long lunches at local cafes satisfy my soul, it’s the shift in mindset I feel most deeply. Here, wellness isn’t a performance. It’s a personal journey that is as much about your mind as it is your body.

Reconnect with nature

As I lay in bed on Sunday morning, watching the sun spill through the curtains, I feel at peace. I’ve eaten well, I’ve challenged myself, I’ve surrendered to the process, to the art of doing less.

But still, something hovers at the edge of my mind, just out of reach. It follows me as I tie my shoelaces and wander through the front garden of Motel Molly. It lingers as I order two large lattes at the Mollymook Beach Hut Cafe and grab a seat facing the sea.

Mollymook Beach Hut Cafe, NSW
Set up in the sun with your morning coffee at Mollymook Beach Hut Cafe. (Credit: Taylah Darnell)

I’m not sure if it’s that first sip of coffee, the rhythmic crash of the waves, or my partner casually inquiring about the day’s plans, but suddenly it comes to me. “Should we go for a walk?"

For as long as I can remember, nature has always been where I go for comfort, clarity and quiet. Whether life feels overwhelming or everything is falling into place, it somehow has a way of putting everything into perspective. It grounds me, softening the blows and amplifying the wins.

Which is why the weekend wouldn’t have felt complete without getting lost in the landscape. While we’d enjoyed a stand-up paddleboarding lesson on Ulladulla Harbour, a guided yoga session by the beach and even a wine tasting overlooking the rolling vineyards of Cupitt’s Estate, we hadn’t stopped and just, well, existed.

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Cupitt's Estate on NSW's South Coast
Treat yourself to wine tasting with a view at Cupitt's Estate. (Credit: Destination NSW)
Om Sweet Om yoga session on NSW's South Coast
Join a beachside yoga session with Om Sweet Om. (Credit: Maddi Trent)

Pulling into Murramarang National Park, I’m content with letting the path lead the way. Coffee cups empty and breakkie rolls devoured for fuel, we make our way down to Pretty Beach for the two-hour hike to Snake Bay. Apart from the occasional solo runner, there’s not another soul in sight.

The walking track traces the narrow strip of sand connecting the ocean and the bush, a patchwork of greens on one side and nothing but blue on the other. Garmin tracking his step count and heart rate, my partner forges ahead.

Murramarang National Park, NSW
The Pretty Beach to Snake Bay track hugs both land and sea. (Credit: Remy Brand)

But I’m in no hurry. I pause often – for the giant coastal banksias lining the track, the fairy wrens flitting in the scrub, the pink shells embedded in the sand. It’s only the grumble of my stomach and the blisters forming on my ankles that eventually coax me back to the car.

That afternoon, we veer back onto the Princes Highway, heading towards Sydney. Tomorrow, my alarm will ring at 6:15am. I’ll get ready for work, commute, answer emails, chase deadlines and fall back into familiar routines. But my body feels rested. My mind is quiet. And I can always come back. Sometimes, that’s all we need to keep going.

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Taylah Darnell
Taylah Darnell is Australian Traveller's Writer & Producer. She has been passionate about writing since she learnt to read, spending many hours either lost in the pages of books or attempting to write her own. This life-long love of words inspired her to study a Bachelor of Communication majoring in Creative Writing at the University of Technology Sydney, where she completed two editorial internships. She began her full-time career in publishing at Ocean Media before scoring her dream job with Australian Traveller. Now as Writer & Producer, Taylah passionately works across both digital platforms and print titles. When she's not wielding a red pen over magazine proofs, you can find Taylah among the aisles of a second-hand bookshop, following a good nature trail or cheering on her EPL team at 3am. While she's keen to check out places like Scotland and North America, her favourite place to explore will always be her homeland.
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This surprising regional town is making its mark on the culinary world

(Image: Visit Griffith)

    Carla Grossetti Carla Grossetti
    With more than 60 nationalities calling it home and a century of Italian influence shaping its paddocks and plates, Griffith is a regional Australian town with serious culinary cred.

    It might feel surprising to learn that Griffith is one of Australia’s leading food destinations. In-the-know Italians have understood this for generations, drawn to the Riverina region’s fertile soils that reminded them of the terrain they’d left behind more than a century ago. These days, Griffith supplies much of the nation’s pantry: 95 per cent of Australia’s prunes come from the region, it’s the country’s largest citrus-growing area, and it’s a leading producer of almonds and walnuts. Even the pickles in every McDonald’s burger nationwide are produced in Griffith. This is not just a farming town; the Griffith food scene is leading the way.

    Here, culinary confidence is rooted in migration. Italian families began arriving from 1913, with a second wave settling after the Second World War. Today, Griffith has the highest proportion of Italian ancestry of any Local Government Area in Australia. Add to that more than 60 nationalities represented across the community and you have a town where food is driven not by trends, but by tradition. Griffith’s motto, ‘Taste our culture’, isn’t marketing spin; it’s the reality.

    Where the vines tell a story

    A hand pouring wine into a glass, with a table filled with food.
    Uncover the stories behind every glass. (Image: Destination NSW)

    The Riverina has long been dubbed the food bowl of Australia, but it’s also a wine region that remains largely under the radar. What sets Griffith apart is that every one of its wineries is family-owned, many spanning generations.

    Calabria Family Wines is one of the region’s standard-bearers. The Calabria story began in 1945 when Francesco Calabria planted his first vines; today, the family continues to shape the region’s identity while also stewarding the historic McWilliam’s Wines brand. McWilliam’s was the first winery to plant vines in the area, and its barrel-shaped cellar door – complete with a soaring stained-glass window – remains one of the most distinctive in regional NSW.

    Yarran Wines, run by the Brewer family, showcases estate-grown fruit across Mediterranean varietals that thrive in the warm climate. Expect bold reds and textured whites that reflect both heritage and innovation.

    Set inside the old ambulance station, Harvest HQ is owned and operated by the Riverina Winemakers Association and pours a rotating selection of local wines under one roof. It also features spirits from The Aisling Distillery, reinforcing the region’s collaborative approach to craft.

    At the table

    A flat lay of a steak.
    Dine where tradition meets a bold new generation. (Image: Visit Griffith)

    If the vineyards tell one story, the dining rooms tell another. Griffith’s restaurants are where tradition and next-gen confidence meet.

    Zecca Handmade Italian occupies the former Rural Bank building, an imposing Art Deco landmark from the late 1930s. ‘Zecca’ means money print, and the name is a nod to the Zecca di Venezia in Venice. Here, find the Riverina’s only producer of dried artisan pasta and traditional Italian recipes. Importantly, the growers and producers supplying the kitchen are listed on the menu as a transparent expression of the region’s farm-to-table ethos.

    Established in 1977 and still run by the Vico family, La Scala puts authentic Italian cuisine on centre stage. Expect handmade pasta, traditional wood-fired pizzas, slow-cooked sauces and dishes that follow recipes guarded like family heirlooms. For something more contemporary, Bull & Bell in Gem Hotel is a shrine to the Euro-style steakhouse that works closely with local farmers and artisans to showcase Riverina produce.

    And then there are the institutions. Bertoldo’s Pasticceria, now in its third generation, draws locals daily for cannoli, biscotti, crostoli and house-made gelato, alongside classic sausage rolls and potato pies. La Piccola Grosseria feels like stepping into an Italian alimentari, its shelves lined with continental goods that wouldn’t feel out of place in Puglia.

    Meanwhile, Limone celebrates local and seasonal produce across breakfast and lunch menus, enriched by the produce and stories of Piccolo Family Farm. Find pastries and sourdough baked daily, and pop into the onsite retail pantry for products from regional producers – including the Piccolo family’s own wine range, Caro Piccolo.

    From the source

    A plated Aquna Sustainable Murray Cod dish.
    Taste world-renowned Aquna Sustainable Murray Cod, straight from its source. (Image: Visit Griffith)

    Behind every menu is a producer. Aquna Sustainable Murray Cod is perhaps Griffith’s most high-profile export; the brand’s Murray cod and Aquna Gold Murray Cod Caviar have achieved global recognition. In October 2024, Aquna presented its products to King Charles III and Queen Camilla at the NSW Premier’s Community BBQ in Parramatta. Impressed by the producer’s sustainable farming practices, the King requested the cod be sent to Buckingham Palace – not bad for a fish farm in regional NSW.

    Mandolé Orchard champions almonds grown on a family-run farm, transforming them into almond milk and value-added products. At Morella Grove, olives are pressed into premium olive oil and pantry staples that speak to Griffith’s Mediterranean heart. These producers are not peripheral; they are central to the town’s culinary ecosystem. Learn about local sustainable farming practices during a farm tour.

    Mark your calendar

    A woman walking past a food mural, something you can spot during A Taste of Italy Griffith.
    Plan your visit around A Taste of Italy Griffith. (Image: Visit Griffith)

    For a town that helps stock Australia’s supermarkets, Griffith has remained curiously absent from the national dining conversation. That’s beginning to change. If you’ve been searching for a regional food destination with substance, heritage and a clear sense of identity, you’ll find it here in the Riverina, right under your nose.

    Time your visit to the Riverina region to coincide with A Taste of Italy Griffith, held every August. This week-long celebration of Italian heritage and culture offers a wide range of Italian-inspired events and experiences to enjoy. Expect long-table lunches, wine tasting experiences, cooking classes and a Makers in the Piazza market. The headline event is a ticketed long lunch – Festa delle Salsicce (Salami Festival) – where winners of the best salami are announced.

    Start planning your foodie getaway at visitgriffith.com.au.