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This quiet corner of coastal NSW is the perfect place to press pause

Credit: Taylah Darnell

How a weekend in the Shoalhaven taught me the art of doing less.

I wake early on Sunday, as I always do. I had hardwired my circadian rhythm long ago; my weekday alarm clock perpetually set to 6:15am. But instead of tossing back the duvet and climbing out of bed, I roll over to face the sliding glass doors of my Oceanside Balcony Suite.

Motel Molly in Mollymook, NSW
Wake up to sunlight drifting through the curtains at Motel Molly. (Credit: Elise Hassey)

It’s my second morning waking up at Motel Molly, a breezy boutique hotel less than 200 metres from the pine-lined shores of Mollymook Beach. I watch as streams of soft golden light pool in dappled patches on the bedspread. My body feels light, my mind quiet; my only pressing thought being the coffee I’m craving from the cafe down the street.

It’s not a feeling I’m used to. After calling Sydney home for more than a decade, I’d grown accustomed to the relentless pace of city living; working a nine-to-five and squeezing social plans, self-care and life admin into the gaps around it. But after just two days in the Shoalhaven region on NSW’s South Coast, I’m starting to remember what it feels like to slow down.

Arrive and unwind

I feel my shoulders begin to soften as soon as my partner veers off the Princes Highway. As if by the flick of a switch, bumper stickers are replaced with rolling paddocks, gum trees and weatherboard homes peeling with sun-bleached paint.

Milton hinterland on the South Coast of NSW
Turn inland at Milton for rolling paddocks of lush green grass. (Credit: Taylah Darnell)

Wafts of eucalyptus and freshly mown grass mix with the unmistakable scent of sea salt, creating a distinctly Australian perfume that always feels like coming home.

It’s a strange sensation, considering I’ve just driven three hours from Sydney. But it’s also oddly comforting, like seeing an old friend after years apart and realising nothing has changed.

Keen to stretch our legs, we decide to find a spot to stop for lunch ahead of our hotel check-in. A quick search of Google Maps and we’re heading towards the nearest cafe.

Housed in a 19th-century converted cheese factory on sprawling farmland, Milkhaus is just 10 minutes outside of Milton in the heart of NSW’s South Coast. Its rotating menu is guided by the seasons, rooted in a paddock-to-plate philosophy that champions local produce.

Milkhaus in Milton, NSW
Stop by Milkhaus for delicious meals made with fresh seasonal produce. (Credit: Mikhail Zenon)

Our meals arrive fast – pulled pork and apple slaw for my partner, a hearty autumn vegetable galette for me – and we devour them even faster. Takeaway coffees in hand, we opt for a wander around the rest of the property to help our food settle.

I’m strolling among rows of vegetables in the kitchen garden when it happens once more, and again when we arrive at Motel Molly later that afternoon. An almost imperceptible softening, like someone is turning the volume down in my mind.

Motel Molly in Mollymook, NSW
Motel Molly eases guests into slow coastal living. (Credit: Elise Hassey)

It’s the kind of change that’s easy to miss. But after unpacking my bag and stepping onto the balcony, it’s the crash of waves from Mollymook Beach I hear, not the constant chatter in my head. It’s the fading of an autumn sunset I watch, instead of the glowing screen of my phone. It’s the start of a quiet unravelling back towards myself.

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Nourish body and mind

If the Shoalhaven’s slower pace invites you in, its wellness experiences encourage you to stay. But there’s no pressure to emerge on the other side a new person. Rather than promising a dramatic transformation, it’s a refreshingly grounded approach to wellness travel that simply asks you to slow down and be present.

Mollymook Beach, NSW
The Shoalhaven region simply invites visitors to slow down. (Credit: Taylah Darnell)

Unfortunately, stillness has never quite come naturally to me, and old habits die hard. Yet as we arrive at The Heal Zone in Milton, I’m determined to surrender to the process. And if anyone can help me, it’s co-owner Nic Laidlaw.

Together with his partner Madi, Nic has built a space designed to help people reconnect with themselves. He walks us through a quick stretch and breathwork lesson before showing us around the rest of the studio, which we’ll have to ourselves for the next hour.

As soon as Nic closes the door behind him, my partner catches my eye. It’s a knowing look, the kind that says ‘you’re not getting out of this.’ Suddenly, I deeply regret telling him I’d never done a cold plunge before. With countless sessions under his belt, he’s determined to get me in.

The Heal Zone, Milton
Dip into an ice bath before enjoying The Heal Zone's infrared sauna. (Credit: Taylah Darnell)
The Heal Zone in Milton
The writer braves her first cold plunge while her practiced partner watches on. (Credit: Taylah Darnell)

The shock lasts only moments, but the sense of accomplishment I feel lingers long after I get out. Somewhere between the initial gasp and the warmth of the sauna that follows, I realise I’d been more afraid of the anticipation than the water itself.

The hardest part, it turns out, isn’t the cold. It’s deciding to feel the fear and do it anyway. Stepping into the icy water wasn’t nearly as difficult as convincing myself I could. And by the time I climb out, shivering and euphoric, I realise I’m capable of more than I give myself credit for.

Food at the Treehouse Cafe in Ulladulla, NSW
Dive into dishes that nourish the soul at local favourites like the Treehouse Cafe. (Credit: Taylah Darnell)

This quiet sense of achievement stays with me for the rest of the weekend. While restorative massages soothe my tired muscles and long lunches at local cafes satisfy my soul, it’s the shift in mindset I feel most deeply. Here, wellness isn’t a performance. It’s a personal journey that is as much about your mind as it is your body.

Reconnect with nature

As I lay in bed on Sunday morning, watching the sun spill through the curtains, I feel at peace. I’ve eaten well, I’ve challenged myself, I’ve surrendered to the process, to the art of doing less.

But still, something hovers at the edge of my mind, just out of reach. It follows me as I tie my shoelaces and wander through the front garden of Motel Molly. It lingers as I order two large lattes at the Mollymook Beach Hut Cafe and grab a seat facing the sea.

Mollymook Beach Hut Cafe, NSW
Set up in the sun with your morning coffee at Mollymook Beach Hut Cafe. (Credit: Taylah Darnell)

I’m not sure if it’s that first sip of coffee, the rhythmic crash of the waves, or my partner casually inquiring about the day’s plans, but suddenly it comes to me. “Should we go for a walk?"

For as long as I can remember, nature has always been where I go for comfort, clarity and quiet. Whether life feels overwhelming or everything is falling into place, it somehow has a way of putting everything into perspective. It grounds me, softening the blows and amplifying the wins.

Which is why the weekend wouldn’t have felt complete without getting lost in the landscape. While we’d enjoyed a stand-up paddleboarding lesson on Ulladulla Harbour, a guided yoga session by the beach and even a wine tasting overlooking the rolling vineyards of Cupitt’s Estate, we hadn’t stopped and just, well, existed.

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Cupitt's Estate on NSW's South Coast
Treat yourself to wine tasting with a view at Cupitt's Estate. (Credit: Destination NSW)
Om Sweet Om yoga session on NSW's South Coast
Join a beachside yoga session with Om Sweet Om. (Credit: Maddi Trent)

Pulling into Murramarang National Park, I’m content with letting the path lead the way. Coffee cups empty and breakkie rolls devoured for fuel, we make our way down to Pretty Beach for the two-hour hike to Snake Bay. Apart from the occasional solo runner, there’s not another soul in sight.

The walking track traces the narrow strip of sand connecting the ocean and the bush, a patchwork of greens on one side and nothing but blue on the other. Garmin tracking his step count and heart rate, my partner forges ahead.

Murramarang National Park, NSW
The Pretty Beach to Snake Bay track hugs both land and sea. (Credit: Remy Brand)

But I’m in no hurry. I pause often – for the giant coastal banksias lining the track, the fairy wrens flitting in the scrub, the pink shells embedded in the sand. It’s only the grumble of my stomach and the blisters forming on my ankles that eventually coax me back to the car.

That afternoon, we veer back onto the Princes Highway, heading towards Sydney. Tomorrow, my alarm will ring at 6:15am. I’ll get ready for work, commute, answer emails, chase deadlines and fall back into familiar routines. But my body feels rested. My mind is quiet. And I can always come back. Sometimes, that’s all we need to keep going.

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Taylah Darnell
Taylah Darnell is Australian Traveller's Writer & Producer. She has been passionate about writing since she learnt to read, spending many hours either lost in the pages of books or attempting to write her own. This life-long love of words inspired her to study a Bachelor of Communication majoring in Creative Writing at the University of Technology Sydney, where she completed two editorial internships. She began her full-time career in publishing at Ocean Media before scoring her dream job with Australian Traveller. Now as Writer & Producer, Taylah passionately works across both digital platforms and print titles. When she's not wielding a red pen over magazine proofs, you can find Taylah among the aisles of a second-hand bookshop, following a good nature trail or cheering on her EPL team at 3am. While she's keen to check out places like Scotland and North America, her favourite place to explore will always be her homeland.
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8 Thredbo hiking experiences you can only have in summer

    Kassia Byrnes Kassia Byrnes
    Thredbo in summer is a nature lover’s dream of show-stopping alpine beauty, cool mountain air and magical moonlit adventure.

    For many of us, Thredbo calls to mind shimmering slopes and snow-dusted gums, but come summer, this Alpine resort transforms into a playground of an entirely different kind. A cool mountain retreat despite the season, Thredbo summer hikes are astonishingly beautiful, criss-crossing over dramatic peaks, pristine glacial lakes and abundant flora and fauna.

    From approachable tracks for novice walkers to more challenging hikes across the Main Range and even journeys under moonlight, Thredbo puts on an unforgettable show of natural splendour all summer. Lace up your walking boots and take the chairlift from Thredbo village to embark on a self-guided exploration or a tour of the Snowy Mountains’ most compelling landscapes.

    These eight unforgettable hiking experiences are only available in summer and offer an alpine adventure like you’ve never experienced before.

    1. Full Moon Hike to Mt Kosciuszko

    Full Moon Hike to Mt Kosciuszko
    Stand atop Mt Kosciuszko at full moon.

    There’s something almost mystical about hiking by the light of a full moon. This guided experience begins with a 15-minute chairlift ride, where you’ll admire the Thredbo Valley below, bathed in the fading sun.

    Once at the top, you’ll pass rivers, alpine lakes and spot nocturnal wildlife on your way to the Kosciuszko Lookout and Lake Cootapatamba. By the time you reach the summit, sunset is well underway as you watch day give way to night and the alpine landscape magically illuminated by the lunar glow. Enjoy a hot chocolate here before following the path back to Eagles Nest, brightened by the night sky.

    This 13-kilometre hike will take place on 3 January, 2 February, and 2 April in 2026.

    2. Super Full Moon Hike

    Super Full Moon Hike in thredbo
    Take in the might of a super full moon.

    The only thing that could level up the celestial beauty of a full moon hike would be a super full moon hike. Following the same route, you’ll meet the moon when it is largest and closest to Earth by ascending to the summit of Mount Kosciuszko at an elevation of 2228 metres. From such a height, it almost feels as though you could reach out and touch its glowing surface.

    Given the rarity and splendour of the super full moon, limited spots fill up fast for this awe-inspiring hike, so be sure to book the 5 December in advance.

    3. Lunar Eclipse Hike

    Thredbo Lunar Eclipse Hike
    See dazzling celestial displays.

    What could be more extraordinary than witnessing a lunar eclipse from Australia’s highest peak? Whether you’re a keen astronomer or simply revel in nature’s beauty, this guided 13-kilometre hike will place you on top of Mount Kosciuszko just as Earth passes between the sun and moon, throwing shade over the lunar surface before transforming it with a deep-red hue.

    It’s an epic place to witness one of our galaxy’s most spectacular and rare light shows. Apart from the dazzling celestial display, you’ll also enjoy walking through the moon-bathed landscape, an evening chairlift ride, and a hot chocolate at the summit.

    Book now for 3 March.

    4. New Moon Hike

    New Moon Hike Mt Kosciuszko
    Catch the changing skies of a new moon.

    A stargazer’s delight, the darkness of a new moon gives the Milky Way full permission to dazzle with its shimmering display. Both astronomers and photographers will relish this opportunity to observe and capture the starry skyscape from the lofty height of Australia’s highest peak, Mount Kosciuszko. Departing Thredbo Village at dusk and leaving its twinkling lights far below, you’ll arrive at the summit in time to see the sun slip away and the stars appear.

    Catch this hike during the new moon lunar phase on 20 December, 19 January, 17 February, 19 March or 17 April.

    5. Thredbo River Track

    Thredbo River Track
    Take yourself along the Thredbo River Track.

    Embark on a gentle entry into the Snowy Mountain scenery with an amble along the Thredbo River. This self-guided hike hugs the river and wanders along the valley floor, revealing snow gum forests, swimming holes and little waterfalls that make for revitalising cold plunges in the summer heat.

    6. Merritts Nature Track

    Merritts Nature Track thredbo summer hikes
    Stop at swimming holes along the way.

    On warm summer days, venturing into the cooler air of Thredbo’s alpine tracks offers relief from the heat. Particularly if you set course for the four-kilometre Merritts Nature Track, where there are opportunities to take a refreshing dip in swimming holes along the way.

    The two-to-three-hour self-guided hike meanders through towering ancient trees (dubbed the ‘Pixie Forest’ by locals), takes in stunning mountain vistas and is soundtracked by the melody of birdsong. Stop for a picnic and discover a hidden natural infinity pool, the location of which is given away by the roar of a cascading waterfall.

    7. Mt Kosciuszko Summit Tour

    Follow a guide along Mt Kosciuszko's summit.
    Follow a guide along Mt Kosciuszko’s summit.

    While you can easily steer yourself to Australia’s most iconic peak without a guide, following an expert guide to the summit of Mount Kosciuszko will colour your experience with a deeper knowledge of the landscape and its wild inhabitants. The 13-kilometre return trail puts the alpine scenery on display with 360-degree views from the highest spot in the country.

    The walk begins at the top of the Kosciuszko Chairlift and takes around four to six hours to complete, but is gentle enough to be embarked upon by all ages.

    8. Snowies Alpine Walk Experience

    Snowies Alpine Walk Experience
    Join a two- or three-day experience along Snowies Alpine Walk.

    If you’re looking to truly untether from daily life and embark on a real immersion in Thredbo’s stunning alpine scenery, pack your hiking boots for the newest multi-day walk in the mountains. The Snowies Alpine Walk can be tackled over two or three days and includes nightly accommodation in the iconic Thredbo Alpine Hotel, daily buffet breakfast, packed lunch and dinner vouchers, plus daily transfers to and from trail heads in a brand-new Defender.

    The two-day experience covers 24 kilometres, while the three-day experience almost doubles that at 44 kilometres. Along the way, explore barely trod landscapes, vast high-country plains and uplifting mountain horizons.

    Discover the full offering of summer hikes in Thredbo at thredbo.com.au.