It’s rare to see Kings Canyon covered in rivers and waterfalls, but it’s a priceless view.
Every year, thousands of tourists climb up the doomfully named Heartbreak Hill to begin the infamous Kings Canyon Rim Walk. This is a place where rain is infrequent, to say the least. And heavy rain is even more of an anomaly. But if you’re lucky enough to witness it, this landmark hike becomes an almost ethereal wonderland of rivers and thundering waterfalls; it’s truly an incredible sight.
I became one of those lucky few to witness this event late in 2025 while travelling with Intrepid Travel . I arrived at the start of the Red Centre’s low season, which extends from October to March. While the weather oscillates between dramatic storms and stifling high-thirties heat, it keeps most tourists away, but there’s a special magic to it.
That magic proved itself when just two of us in the tour group, and our tour guide John Stafford , had braved an early morning wake-up and grey skies to set out on the Rim Walk.
“Look out there," John said, turning our attention to the even heavier grey clouds rolling towards us as we stood at the base of the walk. They seemed to be swallowing up the blue sky at quite a pace, making their way toward us. It was time to get moving.
We made it to the top, still dry but for the sweat worked up by the steep ascent. Up there, it almost felt like we’d left Australia behind and hit the craggy rock walls of Sedona, USA. Yet the hut-like domes of rock are so uniquely Australian.
The storied beauty of this walk has not been overstated. The deep reds of the rim juxtapose with the greens and whites of the McDonald’s cycads, gum trees, Witchetty trees and bush tomatoes in the canyon below. Just the day before, when we’d walked through that very canyon, the keen eyes of our guide spotted a little rock wallaby, gazing in our direction with disinterest as he relaxed in a shady spot.
Continuing on, we’d just made it through Pricilla’s Gap (a section of the trail made famous by cult classic 1994 film The Adventures of Priscilla, Queen of the Desert ) when the grey skies finally broke, and the heavens rained down on us.
Within minutes, what had been parched earth flowed with temporary rivers that poured into the canyon below as a series of waterfalls. While this might sound like a deterrent, it actually just turned the striking landscape into one that would suit a mermaid. Pools like the iconic Garden of Eden, always present, became replete thanks to the thundering waterfall feeding them.
“I’ve been [leading tours here] for 28 years," shared John, in awe, “and I’ve never seen this".
It may sound strange, but being soaked to the bone, crossing flowing waterways that hadn’t been there moments before and seeing this desert beauty in its low-season form was an experience that would have been worth the trip on its own.
The details
Getting there: Most major Australian cities have direct flights to Ayers Rock Airport, with free shuttle buses to accommodation. Alternatively, fly to Alice Springs/Mparntwe, then drive for about 4.5 hours.
Walk details: The walk is a challenging three to four-hour, six-kilometre trail. Heartbreak Hill is intentionally at the start of the walk, as it’s the hardest climb.
Low season: October to March
Tour prices: Prices for Intrepid Travels’ six-day Red Centre & Uluru Explorer tour start from $2583 per person, with all accommodation, transport plus some meals and activities included.
