Warts and all: Memoirs of an Australian Traveller

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Australian Traveller started on a flight to Broome in 2004. Surprising then, that from the age of 14, all I wanted to do was get the hell out of Australia.

As far as I was concerned, life started once I crossed the Australian border and started exploring ‘the world’.

I was a fresh-faced, long-haired 18-year-old backpacker when I first travelled through Europe and the US. My round-the-world ticket cost $1800 and flew me via Colombo, Sri Lanka, on an Air Lanka jet where the rivets popped every time we took off and landed. But no matter.

I lived by the words of a weighty Let’s Go Europe guide that weighed a ton. It led me to the most flea-bitten, cheap accommodation I could afford. I survived a mate almost dying in Zermatt, a crazy Viennese slum lord, homeboys and bed bugs in NYC and several memory-impairing visits to Amsterdam. I survived my youthful wanderlust, in other words. Just.

I returned from my gap year not knowing that’s what I had done. Back then you merely ducked uni for a year and went travelling. Most people thought it strange and exotic and said things like, “Wow, you’re adventurous, aren’t you?" I just thought it was a better use of my time than studying.

I took a job in publishing with the hope of using it to fund my travel. It worked.

The boss deported me to Singapore for 18 months, then London for two and a half years. I hated Singapore and loved London.

The summer holidays in Italy were glorious – long days in Florence, the Tuscan coast, Rome and even a week-long sojourn in Venice. It was everything I had always wanted. I didn’t want to leave.

Unfortunately, I returned to Australia earlier than I had hoped to (thanks, boss), this time with a de-facto English girlfriend in tow.

To kick off the Australian leg of our relationship, I booked us a holiday in Broome. It was May 2004.

Flying over Roebuck Bay, I looked down and for the first time, saw the amazing aquamarine water lapping up against the pindan soil of Outback Australia. Why had I never been here?

I was embarrassed. I had seen the world and not seen my own country. Worse – I had never wanted to see my own country.

As the Virgin Blue flight bounced onto the tarmac, my brain synapses seemed to be aligning in one heightened moment. An idea lit up my brain, like a child on red cordial: Australian Traveller. A magazine for those who’ve travelled the world but not their own backyard. People like me. I was electrified by the idea.

I pitched the idea to my flatmate Nigel the night we returned from Broome. He asked one question: “is the web address available?"

And so, I became a website owner.

We spent the next six months having a few hundred beers and trying to figure out why people smarter than us had not yet sold their houses to fund the launch of a domestic travel magazine. I could tell you why now. It’s a lot of effort.

In what could be considered a miracle, we launched the magazine on 25 May 2005. We were mates, and now business partners.

On that day the Aussie dollar was buying 76 US cents, John Howard was two years away from Kevin ’07, Australia had held the Ashes for 16 consecutive years and Gwen Stefani’s Hollaback Girl was on top of the charts. Social media was studying journalism at a uni with a decent student bar.

The launch was crazy – we never expected to get death threats. Someone hated us for publishing ‘the 10 ugliest towns in the country’, so much so that they emailed, promising to kill us if they lost a single booking! I was touched they thought we were so powerful.

Readers loved the magazine. Australia as a destination was resting on its post-Olympic and Rugby World Cup bottom whilst Kiwi luxury lodges were the hot topic in antipodean travel.

We were also lucky to have some powerful friends, with former Deputy Prime Minister Tim Fischer being our founding columnist. True to his great passion, almost every destination featured by Tim in two years of columns included a train somewhere.

His role as Chairman of Tourism Australia at the time helped. Having a beer after we published issue #4, Tim was his usual honest self. “Congratulations boys, that’s three more issues than anyone ever expected."

2006 was a breakthrough year. Our first annual 100 – ‘100 Things To Do Before You Die’ is still our best-selling issue of all time.

We followed that up with our first Outback issue, another cracker sale – and the first time I had returned to the countryside that had inspired me into this crazy venture. Shooting the cover on the Mundi Mundi plains, I felt I was living under ‘the big sky’ for the first time.

That year, a lot of relationships started and ended. The English girlfriend decided Australia was a great place to visit but ‘old Blighty’ was probably a better place to live. I didn’t agree but was in love with other things soon enough.

I had never met Aboriginal people who only spoke their native language until I went to Garma. At Cape Arnhem, I was blown away and it dawned on me that most people’s mysticism is the same.

My new girlfriend didn’t like that I was out of contact for the whole 10 days, however. We moved in together when I got back.

For me, qualia started a new era in Australian travel, the first world-class luxury lodge to take it to the Kiwis… And me. I took my now live-in girlfriend there eight weeks after the opening.

That stay wasn’t all smooth sailing. The activities guys had dropped us off for a romantic picnic on our own beach but forgot to bring the picnic, the umbrella or water… let alone any champagne. The staff arrived just when we started to think panic would be the only solution.

My live-in girlfriend cried when we left qualia. (“I’ll never ever get to stay at a place like this again.") We went back for five nights on our honeymoon. She didn’t cry when we left that time – we were headed for Longitude 131.

True to my reformed travelling self, our entire honeymoon was spent in Australia.

Since that moment, Luxury Lodges of Australia have become all the rage. I took my wife to Wolgan Valley Resort & Spa the day after our first son was officially conceived via IVF. She declared it the greatest bed she has ever slept on. “Even better than qualia."

Now when I meet people and they ask, “How long have you been at Australian Traveller?" I only ever say, ‘from the beginning’.

They immediately want to know my favourite place. The answer is always the same. “Depends."

It depends on what you like, what you want and how you like to travel – for there is only one certainty, as far as I can see. That around every corner I’ll be surprised and delighted by yet another piece of this amazing country.

Quentin Long
Quentin Long is the Co-Founder and Managing Director of Australian Traveller Media. Quentin is a sought-after travel media commentator. He is Australia’s most trusted source for travel news and insights, having held weekly radio segments across the country since 2006, and regularly appearing on Channel 9’s Today and A Current Affair programs from 2010. Don't ask him his favourite travel experience as that's like asking him to choose a favourite child. However he does say that Garma Festival is the one travel experience that changed him the most.
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The ultimate new summer guide for the Sutherland Shire

Sunshine, sea breezes and sand-speckled locals: the Sutherland Shire is perfect for an idyllic Sydney summer.

The Sutherland Shire is one of Sydney’s most dynamic regions. Home to an eclectic mix of top-notch eateries and drinking holes, a flourishing arts scene, and striking land and seascapes, it’s a haven for foodies, culture seekers and outdoor enthusiasts alike.

It’s also an ever-evolving destination with a constant wave of new places to eat and drink, and under-the-radar pockets to explore – many of which are dog-friendly.

If you’re venturing to this gorgeous part of the world this summer, here’s your guide to what’s new and worth discovering.

Savour the summer dining scene

Fred’s After Hours on the sutherland shire
Pop into Fred’s After Hours.

The Shire’s buzzing dining scene is one of its biggest drawcards, and many of the region’s culinary highlights can be found in the sun-soaked beachside hub of Cronulla. A bunch of newcomers have recently set up shop, making the area ripe for culinary adventure.

Homer Rogue Taverna is exactly as its name suggests: a cheeky take on classic Greek food. Expect meze and mains bursting with bold flavours and a wine list packed with standout Greek drops.

Freds Providore – a Cronulla favourite for casual cafe fare and excellent coffee – is now open late from Thursday to Sunday. Come sundown, it morphs into Fred’s After Hours, serving a refined European-inspired menu, wines, cocktails and a laid-back yet polished vibe.

Bobbys is a slick destination right on Cronulla Beach, where you can grab a plate of freshly-caught seafood and a summery cocktail while cooling off in the sea breeze.

And if you’re after a bit of everything, the sprawling and multifaceted Parc Pavilion is a melting pot of dining experiences. It blends a cafe, bistro, bar, Italian restaurant and a host of regular events, all tied together in a cool coastal setting.

Got a Saturday morning to spare? The Shire Farmers Market in Sutherland is a must-do ritual, letting you (and your four-legged friend) browse fresh produce, flowers and gourmet treats against a backdrop of live music and local chatter.

Dive into ocean pools

ocean pool on the sutherland shire
The ocean pools beckon.

Given its prime coastal positioning, the Shire teems with crystal-clear ocean pools and enclosed bathing spots. Silver Beach Tidal Baths offers a netted
swimming experience in Botany Bay. Tucked beside a small sandy beach, the tidal baths at Gunnamatta Park are calm and shallow – making them an ideal setting for less confident swimmers.

Just a hop and a skip away is Shelly Park Ocean Pool, a magical rock pool carved in the ocean. It’s well-suited to young kids and offers sweeping views towards the open sea.

Experience local arts and culture

Hazelhurst Arts Centre, Hazel Kitchen & Bar has curated the ultimate picnic experience
See the art at Hazelhurst Arts Centre, then enjoy a picnic with or without your pooch.

Hazelhurst Arts Centre in Gymea is elegantly positioned within a lush garden landscape, serving as the Sutherland Shire’s premier destination for arts and culture. This summer, experience the Art on Paper Award 2025 – a celebration of innovation and creativity through the versatile medium of paper.

Set within the leafy surrounds of Hazelhurst Arts Centre, Hazel Kitchen & Bar has curated the ultimate picnic experience. Think abundant cheese platters, artisan charcuterie boards, fresh OJ and a thoughtfully chosen wine list, all available to take away and enjoy in the art-filled gardens just beyond the restaurant. Best of all, four-legged friends are welcome to join the fun.

Next, venture south to the artsy village of Bundeena for the monthly Bundeena and Maianbar Art Trail . This self-guided journey through local artists’ studios offers a glimpse into their work and creative spaces.

Relish the dog-friendly atmosphere

a dog on Greenhills Dog Beach sutherland shire
Let the dog off-leash at Greenhills Dog Beach.

The Sutherland Shire is a bona fide playground for pups and their humans. Find a string of dog-friendly beaches popular with locals, visitors and pups alike. Silver Beach in Kurnell is a peaceful pocket, allowing dogs off-leash without restriction. While Horderns Beach in Bundeena and Greenhills Beach in Cronulla are equally serene and provide off-leash access (be sure to check times and seasonal restrictions before you go).

If you’re planning to make a weekend of it, book yourself and your pooch into Quest Cronulla . With stylish and spacious pet-friendly accommodation, thoughtful amenities, and a prime location just steps from Cronulla Esplanade and a variety of dog-friendly cafes, it’s the perfect spot to rest after a full day of exploring.

Get into nature

Sunrise at Curracurrong Falls and Eagle Rock in the Royal National Park, Sydney.
Find natural beauty in Royal National Park. (Image: Destination NSW)

You’re spoiled for choice when it comes to outdoor escapes: imagine rugged bushwalks, breezy beachside tracks, meandering cycling trails and lookouts galore. The best part? Many of them are perfectly suited to dogs.

Take your canine to Cronulla Esplanade – the Shire’s version of the famed Bondi to Coogee Walk. This eight-kilometre route takes you past the region’s most picturesque beaches, offering panoramic vistas and an electric energy. It heaves with locals every morning and weekend, getting their steps in with a coffee in one hand and a dog leash in the other.

If you’re travelling without furry friends, stop by the Royal National Park. You’ll be engulfed in ancient bushland, craggy cliffs, towering rock formations, diverse wildlife and twisting tracks. The Jibbon Loop Track is a highlight, with spectacular views over the sea. Alternatively, the Karloo Track forms a loop that winds through untamed bush, freshwater pools and waterfalls. Re-lace your walking shoes or grab a bike to follow The Bundeena Drive to Marley  Walk  past freshwater pools and creeks, on to scenic beach views of Little Marley Beach.

Hit up the beautiful beaches

aerial of cronulla beach and esplanade
Enjoy postcard-perfect beaches. (Image: Destination NSW)

The stretch along Cronulla bursts with postcard-perfect beaches, each offering a different flavour. With rolling waves, regular patrol and a steady stream of beachgoers, Cronulla Beach and North Cronulla Beach are buzzy and built for all kinds of swimmers. Elouera Beach is a quieter option, attracting early-morning surfers hoping to catch the perfect wave.

If you prefer a side of dramatic scenery, visit Wanda or Greenhills – in addition to ocean panoramas, both are backed by towering golden dunes and wild scrub. Looking for something more subdued? Shelly Beach Ocean Pool is a relaxed – yet no less captivating – retreat.

Start planning your Sutherland Shire summer at visitsutherlandshire.com.au.