Whale tales: A dive into the marine mecca that is the Fraser Coast

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Discover the Fraser Coast, a marine mecca that beckons with tales of adventure, where majestic oceanic beings compete for attention with the timeless beauty of one of Australia’s most treasured islands.

“We’ve got two males without a calf, let’s go!" Captain Grant McCaffrey shouts just as lunch is served onboard M.V. Arcadia, Hervey Bay Dive Centre’s whale swim vessel.

I drop my sandwich and start running from the upper deck to the back of the boat where the other passengers are already plunging into the water. They’re drifting out into the open ocean, holding onto a rope that’s attached to the port side of the boat. Just as I throw my snorkel on, our instructor Mathew Bradley says the rope has reached capacity, but I can hold onto the ladder on the starboard side instead.

After diving in, I’m underwater when I hear muffled yelling. I can’t quite make out what they’re saying, so I lift my head out to hear Matt say, “They’re right there! Two of them! Quick!" I put my head back under just in time to see a huge, majestic humpback swimming to the left of me and then another, right behind it. They are gone as quickly as they came, and I am beaming as I emerge from the water.

an aerial view of a whale watching tour, Hervey Bay Dive Centre
Swim with whales in the world’s first Whale Heritage Site. (Image: Tourism and Events Queensland)

To my complete surprise, no one else had seen the whales underwater. As is the way with nature and wildlife, you can’t pinpoint exactly where the whales will go or when they’ll come – and much to my delight, and my fellow passengers’ dismay, they had only passed by the side of the boat I had chanced my luck on.

A humpback whale in Hervey Bay
The whale swim usually finishes by early September when more calves arrive in the bay. (Image: Tourism and Events Queensland)

The world’s first Whale Heritage Site

Hervey Bay on Queensland’s Fraser Coast is the world’s first Whale Heritage Site. The whale season here runs from July to October, but the whale swim usually finishes by early September when more calves arrive in the bay (it’s a Great Sandy Marine Park requirement that you can’t swim with calves). I am here right at the end of the peak swim season. And while we see plenty of glorious humpbacks and their babies, we only get one opportunity to swim with them.

a whale spotted swimming in the waters of Fraser Island
The Fraser Coast is the whale-watching capital of the world.

Swim with whales from July to September at Hervey Bay Dive Centre; $225 for adults and $150 for children. Or go on a whale-watching tour from September to October; $185 for adults and $120 for children.

a whale spotted swimming in the waters of Fraser Island
We see plenty of glorious humpbacks and their babies. (Image: Tourism and Events Queensland)

Exploring K’gari

Beyond being the whale-watching capital of the world, the Fraser Coast is a destination bestrewn with marine experiences. After a short ferry ride departing Hervey Bay, I arrive on K’gari (pronounced gah-ree) and am instantly welcomed by the warm, golden hues at Kingfisher Bay Resort ’s aptly named Sunset Bar .

At 123 kilometres long and 22 kilometres at its widest point, K’gari is the largest sand island in the world. This haven boasts misty rainforests, rugged wilderness, more than 40 stunning freshwater lakes and abundant wildlife, including its famous wongari (dingoes).

K’gari from water
K’gari is the largest sand island in the world.

A K’gari highlight reel

There are myriad ways to experience K’gari. Whether you’re camping and driving around the World Heritage-listed site or staying at one of the resorts like I am, there’s a way to explore. I only have one day to see the sights, so I jump onboard Kingfisher Bay Resort’s Beauty Spots Tour – a highlight reel of K’gari.

As I approach the humongous 4WD bus I know it’s going to be a bumpy ride. “Sit at the back if you want to be thrown around," our guide Ian ‘Butch’ Butcher says with a laugh. Our group comprises a largely older demographic, so I trudge towards the back end of the bus with my coffee in hand (first mistake) to take one for the team. I set myself down five rows from the back (I’m only human) and hope for the best.

As soon as Butch starts the journey my coffee is shooting out of the spout and I’m desperately trying to drink it without scalding my mouth. Every time we go over a huge bump, we erupt into fits of laughter. I am astonished at how fast it feels like Butch is fanging this monstrous bus through rough, sandy terrain, but I know experience is on his side.

a 4WD bus drive around Fraser Island
The Beauty Spots Tour is a highlight reel of K’gari. (Image: Tourism and Events Queensland)

75 Mile Beach

Our first stop is K’gari Beach Resort for some lunch before we start the drive on 75 Mile Beach, a sand highway that runs the length of K’gari’s east coast. We see an alpha male dingo on the beach near Yidney Rocks and watch the whales out at sea as Butch flies along the shoreline.

a dingo on Fraser Island
We see an alpha male dingo on the beach near Yidney Rocks. (Image: Tourism and Events Queensland)

The bus makes a couple of stops along the beach; the Pinnacles – 700,000-year-old unique sand dunes that have formed into spires and towers; the iconic Maheno shipwreck; and Eli Creek, where visitors float down the tree-lined waterway.

the iconic Maheno shipwreck on K'gari
We stop by the iconic Maheno shipwreck. (Image: Emily Murphy)

Scenic flight over K’gari

When we arrive at Eli Creek, an Air Fraser scenic flight has just landed on 75 Mile Beach and has availability for some extra passengers. I put my hand up and within minutes am onboard and ready. Pilot Hugh Weber gives us a quick safety briefing and we are off. I’ve never been on such a small plane, and I can’t take the smile off my face. The whirlwind flight takes us over Butterfly Lake – so named because of its shape from above, Boorangoora/Lake McKenzie, Eli Creek and the ocean.

scenic flight over Butterfly Lake on K'gari Fraser Coast
The scenic flight takes us over Butterfly Lake. (Image: Tourism and Events Queensland)

The 15-minute scenic flight is only $100 per person.

an Air Fraser scenic flight above K'gari
See K’gari from above on an Air Fraser scenic flight. (Image: Tourism and Events Queensland)

Boorangoora/Lake McKenzie

Finally, we stop at the unmissable Boorangoora. The perched lake is recognisable by its gradient of blues that reflect the depth of the water. The pure, white silica sand acts as a filter, creating water so pure it can’t support any marine life.

Boorangoora/Lake McKenzie on K'gari, Fraser Coast
Boorangoora/Lake McKenzie is recognisable by its gradient of blues. (Image: Tourism and Events Queensland)

I sit in the lake with my friend, and we lather ourselves with the sand, scrubbing away any impurities. Butch laughs at us and says it won’t do anything, but I tell you, my skin has never felt so smooth.

Boorangoora/Lake McKenzie on K'gari, Fraser Coast
Boorangoora/Lake McKenzie’s pure, white silica sand is the perfect exfoliant. (Image: Tourism and Events Queensland)

The Beauty Spots Tour that takes you to K’gari’s highlights starts at $249 for an adult and $169 for a child aged between four and 14.

Emily Murphy
Emily Murphy is Australian Traveller's Email & Social Editor, and in her time at the company she has been instrumental in shaping its social media and email presence, and crafting compelling narratives that inspire others to explore Australia's vast landscapes. Her previous role was a journalist at Prime Creative Media and before that she was freelancing in publishing, content creation and digital marketing. When she's not creating scroll-stopping travel content, Em is a devoted 'bun mum' and enjoys spending her spare time by the sea, reading, binge-watching a good TV show and exploring Sydney's vibrant dining scene. Next on her Aussie travel wish list? Tasmania and The Kimberley.
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You haven’t heard of this Qld outback town, but history buffs can’t miss it

    Kassia ByrnesBy Kassia Byrnes
    Under wide-open outback skies, discover a fossicking gem that’s managed to slip under the radar.

    While the name Clermont may feel new to even the most intrepid traveller, its gilded history stretches back centuries. You’ll find it just off the highway, humming quietly under the hazy veil of Queensland’s outback sun. It’s here, hemmed in by mountains and perched atop soil heavy with the earth’s treasures, that one of Australia’s most accessible outback adventures awaits.

    Thanks to deposits of gold, copper and gemstones – souvenirs left by exploding supernovas and the heave of tectonic plates – Clermont became a centre point of Queensland’s Gold Rush. And now? Australia’s fossicking capital is yours to discover.

    Getting there

    car driving along Capricorn Way in queensland
    Take a drive through Queensland’s Mackay Isaac region. (Image: Sean Scott/ TEQ)

    You’ll find Clermont in Queensland’s Mackay Isaac region. To get here, it’s an easy three-hour drive over sealed roads from Mackay. Or, if you’re heading from the Sapphire Fields of Emerald, the drive will carve out just over an hour from your day.

    Whether you’re road-tripping through outback Queensland or just tracing your way through all that Australia has to offer, Clermont is remote but easily accessible.

    Best accommodation in Clermont

    Theresa CreekDam in clermont
    Camp by Theresa Creek Dam. (Image: Riptide Creative/ TEQ)

    All accommodation comes with a generous helping of country hospitality here. The choice is yours between modern hotels, parking up the camper or pitching a tent.

    Theresa Creek Dam lies just outside town. Begin each day with crisp country air and bright outback sunrises. Spend the night under the sparkling country stars and your days out on the dam fishing or kayaking. Even if you aren’t camping, be sure to save space in your itinerary for an afternoon on the red dirt shore.

    To stay closer to town, opt for a central hotel to base yourself between exploring and fossicking, like Smart Stayzzz Inn and Clermont Country Motor Inn .

    Things to do in Clermont

    three people on a tour with Golden Prospecting
    Join a tour with Golden Prospecting.

    One does not visit Clermont without trying their hand at fossicking. There are strict rules when it comes to fossicking, so stick to areas dedicated for general permission and make sure you obtain your license beforehand. Try your luck at McMasters , Four Mile , Town Desert, McDonald Flat and Flat Diggings . To increase your odds, sign on for a tour with the expert team at Golden Prospecting . They’ll give you access to exclusive plots and expert advice along the way.

    Once you’ve tried your luck on the gold fields, head to the Clermont Township and Historical Museum . Each exhibit works like an archaeologist’s brush to dust away the layers of Clermont’s history. Like the steam engine that painstakingly relocated the entire town inch by inch to higher ground after it was decimated by flooding in 1916. See the tools that helped build the Blair Athol mine, historic fire engines, shearing sheds and all sorts of relics that make up Clermont’s story.

    The historic Copperfield Chimney offers a change of pace. Legend has it that fossickers found a solid wall of copper here, over three metres high, kick-starting Queensland’s first-ever copper mine.

    Bush Heli Services flying over clermont queensland
    See Clermont from above with Bush Heli Services. (Image: Riptide Creative/ TEQ)

    For hiking, nearby Dysart is the best place to access Peak Range National Park. Here, mountainous horizons stretch across the outback as if plucked from another world. Set off for a scenic drive along the Peak Downs Highway for access to countless geological wonders. Like the slanting rockface of Wolfang Peak. Summit it, and you’ll find yourself looking out across a scene surely conjured up by Banjo Paterson. Dry scrub dancing in the warm breeze, grazing cattle, eucalypts and the gentle creak of windmills. Don’t miss visiting Gemini Peaks, either, for one of the park’s best vistas, and a blanket of wild flowers after rain.

    Then, take to the skies with a scenic helicopter tour with Bush Heli-Services . Shift your perspective and cruise above all the sights from your trip. Spots like Lords Table Mountain and Campbell’s Peak are best viewed from the skies.

    Before you head home, be sure to explore the neighbouring townships. Spend a lazy afternoon in the shade of Nebo Hotel’s wrap-around verandahs . The hotel’s 1900s dance hall has since been replaced with one of the area’s biggest rodeo arenas, so consider timing your trip to line up with a boot scootin’ rodeo. Or, stop by a ghost town. Mount Britton was once a thriving town during the 1880s Gold Rush. It’s been totally abandoned and now lies untouched, a perfect relic of the Gold Rush.

    Best restaurants and cafes in Clermont

    meal at Commercial Hotel
    Stop into the Commercial Hotel Clermont.

    Days spent fossicking, bushwalking and cramming on history call for excellent coffee and hearty country meals. Luckily, Clermont delivers in spades.

    Lotta Lattes Cafe is beloved by locals for a reason. Start your days here for the best caffeine fix in town and an impeccable brunch menu.

    For a real country meal, an icy cold beer and that famed country hospitality, head straight to the town’s iconic hotel: the Commercial Hotel (known endearingly to locals as ‘The Commie’). It’s been a staple in Clermont since 1877. The hotel even survived the flood of 1916 when it was sawn in two and moved to higher ground.

    Naturally, time spent in the outback must include calling into the local bakery. For delicious pies and a tantalising array of sweet treats, make Bluemac Bakehouse your go-to while in town.

    Discover more of The Mackay Isaac region, and start planning your trip at mackayisaac.com.