Go against the tide and spend a day on Normanby Island; an uncrowded, paradisaical Great Barrier Reef island that few know about.
The Great Barrier Reef comprises nearly 3000 individual reefs, around 900 islands and 300 coral cays. At its heart, Cairns is the gateway for travellers eager to witness the reef’s incredible beauty and biodiversity firsthand. From Green Island and Fitzroy Island to the Reef Magic pontoon and outer reef cruises, this World Heritage wonder draws in visitors from across the globe. Yet on one small island, south-east of Cairns, the only crowds you’ll encounter are the fish drifting among the coral, just a few flippered kicks from the shore.
By the second muffled squeal, I lift my head out of the water to check everything is okay. Our sons – aged nine and six – are only metres away from me, their snorkels pointed skyward as they float above a patch of coral. I duck my head back under and see their eyes wide with wonder. Everything is more than okay: they shriek with delight, alerting each other as they spot schools of brightly coloured fish.
One reef, many ways to see it
The Great Barrier Reef is home to an incredible diversity of marine life. (Credit: Tom Park Photography)
A few days earlier we’d visited Green Island, the beautiful coral cay just 27 kilometres from Cairns. Alongside throngs of other tourists, we hoped to experience some of the magic beneath the surface. Mother Nature had other plans. Strong winds and currents forced us to abandon our snorkels in favour of a glass-bottom boat ride. Disappointed, we pinned all our hopes on another tour later that week: the Frankland Islands.
A colleague had tipped me off earlier in the year. Despite visiting the Great Barrier Reef several times – including Green Island, Fitzroy Island and the outer reef – I’d never heard of this small, uninhabited archipelago about 45 minutes south-east of Cairns. Curious and quietly optimistic, we board a coach with around 40 other passengers, travelling to Deeral, where we’re fitted with snorkelling gear and wetsuits before boarding a small boat.
A deserted island
A short boat ride from the mainland, Normanby Island reveals a quieter side to the Great Barrier Reef. (Credit: Tom Park Photography)
We keep watch for crocs as we gently cruise along the Mulgrave River, though none reveal themselves today, then shield ourselves against the spray during a short ocean crossing. Only 10 kilometres offshore within the traditional sea country of the Mandingalby Yidinji and Gungandji peoples, the Franklands comprise five islands. We land at Normanby.
We walk over soft white sand to a simple shelter, built among palm trees and mangrove forest and find tables scattered with intricate shells and pieces of hard coral collected by previous visitors. Even now, I’m unsure whether this little-known corner of the reef can rival its more famous neighbours. But that’s the beauty of the Great Barrier Reef: its greatest moments often reveal themselves once you slip beneath the surface. And judging by the shrieking, we have hit the jackpot. Our boys point to large brain coral that must be hundreds of years old, sea cucumbers and schools of darting damselfish.
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Shore time
The reef is located away from the coast. (Credit: Megan Arkinstall)
The island is certainly family friendly, especially for those with little ones in tow. (Credit: Megan Arkinstall)
Collected corals. (Credit: Megan Arkinstall)
One of Frankland’s greatest appeals is that the reef sits offshore, so we can easily swim back to the beach for a break – making it perfect for families and less confident swimmers. Those who want to stay dry can board the glass-bottom boat, enjoy a guided island walk and children can join in a treasure hunt.
During some downtime, our youngest buries himself in the sand, while his older brother wanders with his dad along the shore collecting interesting pieces of coral. I daydream in the Queensland sun until I hear shouting from further down the beach. A guide is waving her hands towards a fin flapping about in the shallows. It’s a huge manta ray.
The Great Eight
A young explorer enjoying a day by the water. (Credit: Megan Arkinstall)
We are told it’s a fortunate sighting, given the manta ray is a seasonal visitor here. It’s also one of the reef’s so-called ‘Great Eight’, which also includes clownfish, giant clams, Maori wrasse, potato cod, sharks, sea turtles and whales. We won’t find the potato cod here, but the others are fair game.
After a buffet lunch of prawns, chicken and salads, we drag two kayaks into the water and paddle around peering into the water. Just as we’re about to turn back, a turtle suddenly surfaces beside me. Now it’s my turn to contain my shrieking. I hold my breath until it eventually disappears.
Soon it’s time for one last snorkel. I am already pinching myself from what we’ve experienced so far but we are spoilt with more: giant clams, starfish and swaying anemone sheltering tiny clownfish. Then, just before our boat arrives, the manta ray makes one final appearance, its fin cutting gracefully through the water as though waving us goodbye.
Travel details
Cruise the Mulgrave River. (Credit: Tom Park Photography)
The Frankland Islands Day Tour departs daily from Cairns, dependent on tidal conditions. The experience is inclusive of coach transfer to Deeral, a scenic Mulgrave River cruise with morning tea, lunch on the island, snorkelling gear, use of kayaks and stand-up paddle boards, glass-bottom boat tour and guided walk around the island. Book through Australian Wildlife Journeys.
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Megan Arkinstall is a freelance travel writer who you’ll often find at the beach, bushwalking or boating with her young family. She loves reliving travel memories through writing, whether that be sipping limoncello in a sun-drenched courtyard of Monterosso or swimming with green turtles in the aquamarine waters of Tropical North Queensland.
Ancient rainforest, coral reefs, laid-back luxury and adrenaline-fuelled adventures, Port Douglas offers a side of Australia unlike anywhere else.
Mornings in Port Douglas start with a beautiful symphony. As day breaks, the lyrical calls of Rainbow Lorikeets, cries of the sulphur-crested cockatoos and rhythmic Coral Sea waves create a colourful soundtrack for Tropical North Queensland’s sunrise. If there’s one place in Australia that captures the sweet spot between luxury and laid-back living, it’s here. This small, seaside village has just enough glamour to feel indulgent and just enough barefoot charm to make you feel like you’ve escaped the chaos of everyday life.
Whether you’re diving into the warm waters on Four Mile Beach or enjoying an ice-cold drink and a Barramundi burger overlooking the marina, Port Douglas offers more than just a seaside holiday.
Local gourmet goodies
Nab an open-air table beneath a canopy of palms at Nautilus. (Image: Toby Stanley)
The tropical food scene in Port Douglas is influenced by the rich agricultural regions surrounding it, with fresh produce arriving daily from nearby farms and tropical growers across the region. At Nautilus – a hidden, palm-fringed restaurant just off Macrossan Street – the menu showcases regional flavours. Its Signature Nautilus Mango Soufflé is a long-time favourite.
Nearby, Hi-Tide by the Beach offers a relaxed way beachfront dining experience overlooking the Coral Sea. From crocodile and lemon myrtle spring rolls to wild barramundi and a volcanic hot stone steak, taste the diverse flavours of Tropical North Queensland.
Visitors can also explore the region’s local markets. Port Douglas Markets offers artisan products and tropical treats each Sunday, while the Saturday morning Mossman Markets is the place for fresh local produce from the surrounding farming community.
Just outside of Port Douglas, Ospreys at Thala Beach Nature Reserve has one of the region’s most memorable dining outlooks. Perched on a small headland between rainforest and sea, take in views across the coastline and mountains while you dine. The seasonal menu highlights local seafood, tropical fruits and native ingredients sourced from across the region
Travelling with young humans
Catch a spectacle at Hartley’s Crocodile Adventures. (Credit: TTNQ)
Port Douglas caters for all types of visitors, but families especially love the walkable streets, wide beaches and range of activities nearby. An attraction that never fails to delight all ages is Hartley’s Crocodile Adventures – a wildlife sanctuary and ecotourism park with some of the region’s largest crocodiles. Here, you’ll also find koalas, cassowaries, turtles and other Australian wildlife.
For something slower paced, sit back and enjoy a tranquil visit aboard the historic Lady Douglas River Cruise. Glide along the calm waters of Dickson Inlet, keeping an eye out for birdlife and estuarine crocodiles along the mangroves. Children can take part in activity sheets onboard and even have the opportunity to help steer the boat.
This region is also deeply connected to Indigenous culture, and a Dreamtime Walk is one way to learn about it. Discover the stories, traditions and connection to Country of the local Kuku Yalanji people from local Indigenous guides, while exploring the rainforest and waters of Mossman Gorge.
Exploring local waterways
Walk along the peaceful Cooya Beach. (Credit: TTNQ)
Join a guided tour with Walkabout Cultural Adventures to explore the peaceful Cooya Beach. Led by deeply knowledgeable local Aboriginal guides, try seasonal local bush tucker, take in the beautiful landscape and gain insight into the history, culture and traditions of this land.
Surrounded by dense canopy and ancient species, nearby Hartley’s Creek Falls are at their finest after rain. These beautiful falls are reached via a lush rainforest walk that winds through creek crossings, towering greenery and moss-covered boulders.
To swim where the locals swim, head out past local farms and into the foothills of the Mossman River to Shannonvale – a low-key freshwater swimming hole surrounded by sun-warmed rocks and deep pockets of clear water. It’s a quiet area to spend a few hours retreating from the world.
Adrenaline adventures
Take to the ocean with Sailaway Port Douglas. (Credit: TTNQ)
One of the most high-octane ways to enjoy the nature of Tropical North Queensland is white-water rafting down the impressive Barron River. With Grade two and Grade three rapids, expect plenty of splashing, some teamwork, and a few moments where everyone in the raft screams and laughs at the same time.
Join Back Country Bliss for the most unique floating experience you’ll ever encounter. Head into the rainforest and float along the serene Mossman River on your individual board, taking in the sights and sounds of the ancient landscape around you.
If you prefer ocean swimming, Sailaway Port Douglas explores the idyllic Low Isles and the outer reef on their snorkelling tours. Enjoy the Great Barrier Reef from above or below and look out for coral gardens, giant clams, colourful reef fish and, if you’re lucky, sea turtles.
For land-lovers, the Devil’s Thumb is a challenging but rewarding hike with incredible views over the coast and endless cane fields. This 10km return hike will take around six to eight hours, so leave a whole day and pack snacks!
Experiences that give back
See the rainforest from above on The Skyrail Rainforest Cableway. (Credit: TTNQ)
With two UNESCO World Heritage-listed sites – the Great Barrier Reef and the Wet Tropics of Queensland rainforest region – it’s not surprising Tropical North Queensland is a hub for eco-tourism. The stunning Daintree Ecolodge was founded on the principles of minimising environmental impact, supporting the local community and teaching guests about the local Indigenous culture. Their elevated rainforest-style ‘bayans’ are tucked among the trees, bringing nature into every part of a guest’s stay.
Further down the coast, the luxury bungalows and treetop hideaways of Thala Beach Nature Reserve are dotted across 45 acres of protected headland, forest and beach. The property’s design intentionally preserves large areas of native vegetation and beachfront ecosystem, while conserving the surrounding habitat. The private beach and various swimming pools offer a cool retreat from the heat of the day, while the main lodge offers the perfect place to read and relax.
The Skyrail Rainforest Cableway, a 7.5-kilometre cableway between Cairns and nearby Kuranda, has won multiple tourism and environmental awards. It’s also the first tourism attraction in the world to achieve Platinum EarthCheck Accreditation, for its long-term environmental management and sustainability initiatives.
